Dear Matthew, you explained and demonstrated exactly what my problem is with a grandfather clock like this. Thank you very much for that. You helped me indescribably. 1) What rope size do you use for what weight? 2) I think you only use natural rope (gut) for a grandfather clock like this? 3) How long should the rope be, should it run completely until there are no more turns on the pulley? The beginning of the rope would always be under extreme stress when being pulled up and would breaks easily? Or should the clock run until the weight hits the ground and then there should still be one turn on the pulley? I'm worried the rope will break and the weight will cause major damage. Your explanation is very professional, every word makes sense!
Thank you for your message! On an eight-day longcase clock I would use a minimum of 1.5mm diameter gut line, yes I use natural gut but you can use synthetic type. That is for driving weights of around 4 - 5kg. with a pulley which means the line carries about 2 - 2.5kg each. If I can find it and it fits, I like 1.6mm diameter line, it just gives that extra security. Yes I only use natural gut. As for length, I would fill the barrel fully then normally add about 40 cm. This allows for the line to go round the pulley and tied in a know like I describe. Sometimes yes the line pulls tight (no turns left on the barrel when fully run down), it shouldn't matter. What is important is when the clock is fully wound, the line cannot pull tight and the line does not double-up on the barrel when fully wound. I hope this helps. If you begin with the lines too long, you can easily shorten them using the know I demonstrate. Yours, Matthew
Thank you for the video! My mother left me a Grocott of Holywell long case, but my stepdad had let it wind down so the weights hit the floor, and then pulled them up tight at the top. This resulted in bad things happening when a friend decided to try to move it before I could get there. Needless to say, I've repaired a few wood pieces to the case, anchored to the wall with brackets, washers, and screws through the existing holes. Everything is ready to go except for the line, but the gut is in horrible shape, and I'm afraid to attach the weights until it's replaced. I've learned so much about clocks as I also inherited a German (Carl Werner) wall clock, that I just finished repairing. These were minor on it, such as the striker needing realignment, working with the pendulum, and keeping correct time. That being said, there are two small metal rods in place of these knots, with the string knotted to the rods. Would those be original to the case? I wouldn't think so, as I think it was done just as you've shown here. Also, where can you find this line? Size, length, etc. Thanks for any info.
Hi Eva. Very likely those line toggles are not original. TBH I dont like them or wooden dowels so unless the holes in the seaboard have been drilled out, personally I would return to the traditional butterfly knots. The dowels are just another minor complication. I buy my line from BowBrand in Kings Lynn here in the uk. Most clock material suppliers will be able to provide natural gut lines. Synthetic gut are fine too. They are just a bit more springy and tricky to handle but once the weights are on, they are fine. Hope this helps. Matthew
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Sorry for the late thank you Matthew, but thank you none the less! Life has a way of interfering in the best laid plans. Just now getting back to repair on the long case, and this is a huge help! The case didn't have as much damage from it's topple as I had feared, but the poor face has years of neglect, and is missing 4 brass decorations which one can see were certainly there. Unlike most corner decorations, these looked to be small and specific for letting the Greek key and Laurel show through them. I'm afraid I may never find anything similar. It's also painted with a ship on each side of the dial @9 and 3. I cannot see any names if there ever were any, and the view we have of the two ships is as if we are on a third ship and looking at them from behind, or we are watching them sail away. They are totally different as even the small dots supposed to be men, show them in different placements. Parts of the booms are also in different positions. This is NOT like many I've seen as the only floral is the laurel looking vines, and what looks to be a top view of an onion, garlic, or leek bloom. In each corner, above where the brass decorations would have been is another simple plant of some sort. Anyway, sorry so long. Do you have any reading material for deciphering the pictorials on these, or is their meaning lost forever to history? I'm eager to learn as I not only enjoy the old time keepers, but history as well. It also makes it special since I carry the Welsh bloodline. ;) Thank you once again for any info.
@@Eva-xf2zp Hi Eva From an historic research perspective. There is a book by Brian Loomes called White Painted Dials (or similar) which certainly would be a good beginning place. Your local library should be able to get you a copy on loan. Otherwise, I would always recommend joining the AHS (Antiquarian Horological society ) AHSorg.co.uk as members gain access to their extensive digital searchable archive. Hope this helps. Matthew
Hello Matthew! Thanks again for your help. I did finally get it done, but to my surprise, I find that the dial is a James Wilson. I also found hand written on back of the false plate, the name of his brother Richard Wilson along with some numbers that resemble dates. I have read in several reputable publications, his brother Richard may very well have painted many of the dials. The numbers maybe a serial? There's more writing and I'm working to decipher the rest. They almost can't be seen with the naked eye, but under LED light, something caught my eyes, and a jewelers loop confirmed.
Lines should be checked for fraying on an annual basis. In a domestic environment with relatively low RH and low chance of insect attack or rotting, I'd say they will last between overhauls. I'd always change them at an overhaul. That of course varies... 5 - 15 years. M
