Resurrecting my 1951 Dodge Power Wagon - Restoration Part 8 

Hi Everyone! Would love to hear any ideas you guys have for the project or any tips you have for me. If you want to see more videos like this please make sure to SUBSCRIBE!!! :)

Hello I am a mechanic with a lot of experiance with boat motors . The reason the valves are staying up is there is some corrosion (rust) inside the iron valve guide. The valve is made out of a better material than the block and will have a lot less corrosion . You are headed in the right direction. When you start the engine the valve and valve stem will expand o lot faster than the valve guide (block) but you don't have to worry about doing any damage because this is not a interferance motor. If i were doing this job i would mix a little 2 stroke oil in with the gas to lubricate the valve guides so they don't stick when the valve stem expands from heat. Also modern motor oil (crankcase) has no zinc this engine needs zinc to run for extended periods of time. Zinc was removed from oil because it harms catalytic converters on modern emission controlled engines. If you can try to leave the carburetor in an upright position when you remove it from the engine. Because the sediment at the bottom of the bowl gets stirred up when its turned on its side and some of this can make its way into the main jets causing you to have to clean the carb. P.S. purchase a zinc oil additive and use it after the oil is changed it will greatly extend the life of the camshaft/lifters.Bill.

Good catch on the bed!

Those threads still perform well 👌 keep goin bro!

Lovin' this video! Love the power wagon.... Good job at making vids!

muy muy bien

It wouldnt hurt to try to rotate the valve when it is stuck open. You at least know that one valve is not stuck stuck as you can move it. So, I would fire it up with the one bad valve and the heat of it running with the other 5 cyls will open the guide clearence and the valve should then work on its own. They are a great running engine!

G'day just found your channel and subbed mate

Good job on the valves! I would turn the engine over so the valve is open. Then use sand paper on the seats and valve. That should be enough to get it running. Closely inspect the exhaust seats, make sure the surface is a clean circle. There could be a crack or void in which case you probably will get it to run but the seat will have to be reground or replaced. Don’t get frustrated but you might have to revisit those valves later. I got mine running on all six at first, went back a few weeks later and it started and ran but only ran on 5. The number 1 exhaust valve had stuck again, see my “bring it home” video. Somebody had done some hinky mechanic work on it years back so I decided to replace all the guides and some seats and valves. You’re learning some great stuff!

Lapping compound!

Keep these coming we are working on a 52' PW project & are in about the same stage as you are!

Keep up the videos. Great job. I have a 1947 WDX that is in a little better shape have gone through the brakes, axle seals, throwout bearing, etc but has a long way to go. Now im inspired to dig back in

Scott, that truck was probably Bell telephone. They were the same color green, had a utility body on the back and the two heavy brackets that come up under your front fenders are for a gin pole or crane. used to set telephone poles. the stuck valves are common on anything that has been sitting. While you have the head off you may consider having it shaved, not un common for them to warp, my m37 went through several head gaskets until I had the head done, if you shave it around sixty thousandths it 'll boost the compression, gives you another 10 or so horsepower.

Shouldn’t be too hard to pull the valves. Rent a valve compressor. Compress the spring, pull out the retainers, release the compressor, and the valve should slide out. Keep each lapped valve with its respected location after lapping, don’t mix and match. Once lapped, they have to stay together with their seats. Check the valve lash after lapping with feeler/gap gauges. Oh, and for the hand brake, pull on the handle just before you press the thumb button. This relieves the tension on the locking tooth and should be easier to press the button.

Get a valve lap set and lap the valves

Couldn't do this in a new car. Ah the good old day's.

spring might be broke

Hey I have a Power wagon too

Turn the coil around,where the terminals face up, there's fluid in there,might need to change the valve seat-lifter,that's why the covers there.

tae this valve off and use sand paper with oil, then put it back and turn with your hand.

Polytron spray Do it

is that the truck of gta