Revell 1/48 Panavia Tornado Gr.1 Gulf War “Mig Eater” Full Build 

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Graciaas!

Definitely it's not an easy kit to build, you have to be especially careful gluing the rear fuselage to the rest of the pieces. The flaps down option was a nightmare, if I ver do another tornado in the future will be with the fixed closed wings configuration, but overall it's a great kit, not perfect at all, but it surely gives a good representation of the aircraft. I will start doing it for my next models and see the effects I can get, thanks a lot for the suggestion!

Hi, the kit is not that difficult to build if you ignore the instructions. This is the sequence I recommend (based on my 6 Revell tornado builds experience, and on what I've been told by knowledgeable modellers on Britmodeller). Don't start with the cockpit. Build the intake structure and install it on the belly plate (the main gear bays will be installed around then). Assemble the fuselage sidewalls to that, and pay attention to the joint lines at the rear. Build the "outer" air intakes. You'll need putty, the joint is poor and there are sink marks. Glue them to the front dorsal plate and install that assembly to the rest of the fuselage. Build and install the wings. If you want extended slats and flaps, dont install them yet. If you want closed airbrakes, glue them to the main dorsal plate. That way, you'll have a much better joint. You'll have to fiddle with the assembly while the glue is still wet. Then, you can slide the dorsal plate in place, and glue it in place. Build the nose (cockpit + 2 fuselage parts) and slide it in place, and voilà, you have yourself a Tornado with as little putty as possible. I forgot: the instructions are wrong regarding the flaps in the down position. Replace 108 with 106 and vice versa. Trust me on that one, been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

Excuse me, I don't understand do you want a tornado desert storm decals?

I used Bondo red glazing putty, used for automotive bodywork, the one used in the final stages to fill superficial scratches left from previous sanding. It's very similar to Tamiya putty and it even dilutes with enamel thinner

Usé por mucho tiempo el thin cement de Tamiya, pero descubrí que el thinner de pintura de Sherwin Williams código R7K248 (etiqueta roja) funciona maravillosamente bien y por la cantidad/precio sale más rentable que el Tamiya. La base que reacciona con el plástico de los modelos(estireno) es el Tolueno y este thinner tiene grandes concentraciones de este material, por lo que la unión del plástico es muy sobresaliente.

@@moixmodels muchísimas gracias

@@juanjtenorio7192 no hay de qué