A full in box review of the Revell kit and a couple of comparisons with the Dragon kit. If you would like to contribute to the channel.. please look here.. / nigelsmodellingbench
Me Da's mate gave up modelling about 10 years ago and in May when he heard I had started modelling during the first lockdown, he dropped off his stash, so I got me hands on some classics. 2 of the 7 kits were Revell - 1/32 Storch and a JU-88 Nightfighter. Upon investigation I found they are both re-boxed Hasegawa. Finished the Storch and currently doing the JU88. I would never have bought either kit [too big] but I am delighted to have them as they are both superb. So everyone, listen to Nigel, when you see a Revell kit, CHECK THE BOX. You may have found a treasure.
[One of the others was the old Airfix Vulcan, he was halfway through it, and he said it was that which had finally put the nail in the coffin of his modelling mojo. It really did look awful].
I built this kit as my first 1:32 scale kit after a bunch of Battle of Britain 1:48 scale kits. I'm back in the hobby after a 40 year break and loving it. Airbrushes, pinwashes, acrylic paints, decal solvents....all very new to me, but I'm building and finishing models that I could only dream about in my younger days. Modern kits are a marvel to me from what they were like when I built my first 1:72 scale AIrfix kits as a boy. I put a bunch of Eduard aftermarket PE on the kit. Found this quite hard and fiddly but the end result was a much better detailed cockpit. I did some scratch built detailing of the gun bay and spend a bit of time on the engines which can be exposed. The covers are not a great fit but you can position them back in place on the model to cover all the engines back up without any glue or holding devices. I don't recall having any issues with instructions, fit of parts, seams and all that stuff, and I'm sure I would have noticed it if it was at an irritating level. Because of my BoB theme I build the 1940 C2 version without bombs, not the bumblebee. I loved building this and as a stepping stone and learning of new techniques, it was a great exercise. I have it in my display cabinet and even though I have built quite a few more kits since then and certainly got better at it, I look at this one and think I did a pretty good job on it. A bought the KittyHawk AV10 Bronco after you started your build on it. I'm still waiting for you to finish it before I tackle it. I think I may have more issues with that kit. I'm currently building a 1:48 Academy F4B Phantom - the first kit I have really had to adjust the build sequence from what the instructions advise. I didn't want to fit the undercarriage first and needed to figure out a way to install the legs at the end of the build. Your videos were the inspiration for me to try doing that instead of just blindly following the instructions. Modern jets have too many stencils and its hours and hours of work for very small, but obviously important detail. I can only do stencils for so long before I have to put it down and do something else for a bit, so its taking longer than I would like, but we're getting close now and the near to finished model looks pretty good..
I, like you, stopped 40 years ago and am now looking to go back into the hobby. I did build the '74 Revell job in 1/32 Me 110 as well. Exactly as shown on the boxes. Box then was half the size of what he is struggling with.
Just bought this kit last night…should be fun. Think I’ll be polishing the skills on something else before starting this one. Glad I found your vid. Cheers from Australia
Picked one of these up...delightful parts, shame Revell used a double sized box to get it all in...then charge the price for it. Great review tho, so thanks, Dane
As a beginner i do pay extra for the fit with tamiya as i suck at fixing seams etc . But with your reviews i am starting to look at kits like these. Keep up the great work mate, these are great videos
I've done this kit years ago from another issue period. Straight Revell with no collaboration. I have married the 110 to Rudolf Hess from his weird flight to England. I never had compared consistency of plastic colors per company. I have noticed different types of plastic. Snappy versus soft & sadly, brittle. You have many qualities for reviews. Knowledge is foremost. I agree easily with your criticisms. It seems many like to waste life living in wacky world than to enjoy life in sensible land. Thanks.
Thanks for the revue, Nigel. It looks great, I would love if they issue the G-4, as the one in the Hendon museum, with its beautiful antennas (and that badass "spaghetti" camo...). I'm building the old Revell G-4, it's alright, a bit of surface defects (as the real one) and a bit of adjustment needed, but not too bad (the interior is stuffed with Eduard p.e.), it's been waiting for a while for the free hand camo, I'm afraid to screw it up...
Hi Nigel. I was the one who spoke to you at Telford. The issue with Revells instructions is that although they have ‘spread them out’ they carried over 90% of the problems identified by Brett Green in his erratum. If following Brett’s corrections it is easier to use them with the original Dragon instructions. Personally I also found the Dragon plastic much nicer to work with, crisper and cleaner moulds. If money is not an issue I would spend the extra on the Dragon release. The Revell decals, as you said, are really nice though but I did not use them preferring mask sets to paint the markings in this scale.
Hi Barry. i was on a chat last night and said the same thing to a guy on there.. if money is not an issue, get the Dragon. Nicer plastic and less sink marks. I know what you mean with regard to reading across Brett greens instructions.. he also made a mistake with at least one part number!!
Hi, Nigel. The Revell kit IS the reboxed Dragon kit. I inspected it in my LHS about 18 months ago here in NZ. YES, the instructions are the new Revell style and a major improvement over what passes for Dragon instruction. I built the Dragon kit when it came out, and had to use the 1/48 Eduard kit instructions to paint the interiors as Dragon's had no paint guide for that. On the plus side the Dragon kit itself is great, despite the lack of separate controls. It just falls together, except for the canopy which is a bit of a bear to align and paint. Also the engine to cowling fit is "tricky", any slight misalignment throws the whole cowling fit off. I had to use AM decals for mine. (A radarless all black Nightfighter C based in Benghazi in 1942m, featusing a nose unit symbol of a big blue and white owl, perched on a yellow crescent moon)
Hello Nigel.About Step 17 Part D 20. Time 34:59h . If you take a close look to Revell Step 11, you can see Part D 47 and on that is Part D 20, if your just looking for the second Part D 20 an arrow with color M shows you the way look Step 11... Nice Video and many thanks for showing both Kits. Best Regards Michael
I noticed kit quality is either up or down since the mid 70's. Sometimes you get a decent kit, sometimes you get a box of junk. I think since the 80's up we have been getting stuff from china. You know that you get it from there when you open up the box, a nice little stamp that says "Made in chiner". LOL! I must admit, some kits are improved, but some have me scratching my head..
Hi Nige fabulous review of the Revell kit. Personally I do enjoy a Revell kit however, I prefer to use Tamiya acrylic paint. How can I convert the Revell colostomy Tamiya. Cheers Nige hope you get better soon.
Dragon has always been one of my favourite makers for 1/48th aircrafts, especially their Ju-188 with radial engines (which is still one my favourite all time kits), and I still prefer their Me-163B, with corrections of depth near the nose, and even some areas of their 262s. And they got the tail's squarish cross-section right on their 1/48 110C, which Eduard did not (going oval instead!)... If I had to rank makers and my preferred kit from them, in 1/48 it would go like this: Eduard Spitfire Mk IX, Zvezda Pe-2, Dragon Ju-188E, MikroMir W.34, Tamiya Bf-109G-6, Monogram B-17G (yes, that high!)... I give premiums for size, complexity and accuracy, and so Revell's Ju-52 should be somewhere in there, if it was not for the vastly different thicknesses of its wingtips, which is unforgivable...
How are we supposed to hide a box that size from the missus? I don't think I could get it in the Loft. Do you think the instructions from design department to the packaging department got muddled up with some 1/16 kit... or even a 1/32 Lancaster kit?
It's very easy to find out, if Cartograf or Zanchetti (both Italy) printed it: Have a look on the decal sheet and look which letter is behind the item number. Z= Zanchetti, C= Cartograf.
Hello Nigel you may have already announced it I watched most of your videos but don't remember this is the latest I have Hong Kong Models 01E038 1/32 Lancaster Grandslam AU $429.99 and Hong Kong Models 01E029 1/32 B-17F Flying Fortress AU$429.99
When a mould tool is made, the designer may wish to include parts for a different variant of the same subject. For example, a different rudder. It's cheaper to incorporate the extra parts into one tool than make another tool for the other parts. The KittyHawk 1/35 MH-60s has more unused parts than used!!
Hit and miss with Revell . The larger scale seems the best value .1/72 bit mea . I got the Fletcher DD last year for just under 100 pound a absolute ton of PE and brass parts great instructions a lot of kit for the money can recommend .
You acknowledge the cutting board is a problem but continue as always no one sees the detail stop using grided cutting mats of light colour sponsored or not it's a waste of time
@@NigelsModellingBench with all respect love what you do some times you try show us detail but the grid lines act like camo . Again totally respect what you do your a great modeller. Love how you explain problems and advise how to fix them just sometimes I can't see what your trying to fix
