I feel so lucky that I picked this car out when I did. There wasn't a lot of content on it at the time and that red XRX was really looking good but after just putting the DA2.5 together I knew I made the right choice.
An almost deep dive to see why is it so good. Now let me get back to putting the DriftArt 2.0 build videos together. Time stamps Intro 00:00 Unboxing 00:23 Steering 02:19 Wheelbase adjustment 03:43 Motor mount 04:16 Min - Max wheelbase 05:08 Gearbox 06:58 Noise conparision 07:08 Rear suspension 07:31 Parts needed to complete the car 09:43 Suspension bounce 10:19 Installing front lip for Mini-Z body 10:43 Front adjustabilities 11:07 Suspension is really soft 12:25 Rear ride height adjustment 12:43 Test drive 14:18 Conclusion 15:40
Nice video! I love my DA summer edition. Even if you don't need additional parts Drift Art make a wonderful set of mods parts and you will be upgrading it pretty soon. So, I will be waiting for the next video.
With your opinion, I bought this CC version and built mini-z unit, It works perfect. It's awesome drift kit. Thank you. By the way, the kit already installed? I installed myself.
Impressive. I just recently got a wltoys 284132, put drift tires on it, locked the diffs, and now I am hooked and going down the drifting rabbit hole! 😱 already turning into my next money 💰 pit. Looks like Super-G is only a 1 hour drive (90 miles) from my location. Uh oh.
I have both the AFRC GYS-2 V3 and the $5.00 GYC300 gyros on order. Can you tell me what the main differences are? Does the GYC300 even work well at all in comparison?
@@sideburn Reaction is different, the GYC300 isn't as quick to response or counter steer as the AFRC. Also the servo angle which it operates is better on AFRC. Basically a better gyro will be faster to react, more precise to react and will make it easier to drift.
@@BeaversHobby ahhh thanks for the info. Can’t wait to try it out on the 284131. Tempted to get a drift art. Maybe later after I get more experience. I’ll have to figure out the best esc, motor, Rx/Tx options.
Hello Beaver. I have a query. In my DA2 SX 98MM setup, The golden ball joints holding the front suspension is not getting tightly screwed into the nylon front arm. It keeps getting loose and falling off. What glue can be used to keep them tight in to the nylon front arms ? Can we use super CA glue like gorilla glue on nylon parts or loctite 242 (low strength) Please suggest.
If the hole is smooth and you can pull the screw straight out then take all the screws off and use superglue/CA, put it on a toothpick then rub the wall inside the hole to build up a layer. If it can screw in fine but the bolt won't hold then you can use the thread lock/loctite low strength.
Excellent video Beaver! I just got a 94mm GLA that I'm in the almost done building. GarageRC has some videos on his channel of it built as a drift car so I'm building mine the same. I'm just waiting to receive my Sinohobby front one-way. I've had a WLToys 284131 for a couple months now. I've done all the fixes and upgraded it a little bit (with help from your videos) but I'm finding the upgrade parts are not very good quality. So instead of dumping more money into it, I got the GLA. Do I need to get a gyro for awd? I can drift my WLToys pretty well without one. My next build will be a rwd drift car. I was going to get the XRX DPA Sport but now I'm thinking the DA 2.5 after seeing this. I love the adjustability (without having to buy extra parts) of this chassis. Thank you for all the great videos!
Always inspiring since the first time video of k989 i watched years ago... I like the way u compare it with the other kits... thumbs up Well 2.5 is really hard to get in indonesia too, they sold really fast... About the suspension, i heard they use oil shock like in a 1/10 rc... is that right?
Hi Beaver, great vid as usual man! Could you recommend any good but cheapish esc + motor? I have got wheels and gyro already from a previous build, but I don't want to go too far over my budget lol :)
DasMikro V3 ESC bit.ly/3mYOVkd Surpass Rocket 3500KV or 5500KV bit.ly/3ircxKC The motor is the cheapest you can get but it's really good, the ESC is good as well, I use V1 and V2, haven't tried V3 yet. You can also try and find Atomic ESC, it should be around $35.
Was the previous version (2.4?) of Drift Art2 easy to assemble? I am coming from ma020 so I don't have any assembling experience. Will you recommend getting the upcoming 2.6 kit to someone like me?
The previous was 2.0 and then they jumped to 2.5. It's not the easiest car to assemble and get the setup right. If you have no experience building cars I highly recommend GL Racing GLD or Atomic DRZ V2. They are more beginner friendly.
Hi Beaver, do you think that this drift art 2.5 classic edition is better, than XRX DPA in terms for adjustability (tuning) handling, build quality, future upgrade options and costs.
DriftArt 2.5 (will call it DA from now on) is easier to tune and it has better steering out of the box. XRX can do parallel steering too but with a bit of adjustment and you'll extend the front width so it's going to be a much wider car than it already is. Also DA servo assembly needs less maintenance than XRX. The XRX slicing rail will come loose after some time so you'll have to keep adjusting it. DA won't be like that because steering is direct from servo. DA has a bunch of upgrades, even though they are not entirely necessary, they are really nice and will increase the durability especially aluminium bulkhead, servo mount and knuckles.
Sawadikap, how do you think of the belt durability? Do you think it will last over a year as rubbers will become bad sooner or later? In terms of that aspect, do you think normal gearing systems are appearing? Thinking of getting XRX or DA.
The belt will last really long before it starts to stretch. The kit also comes with many spare belts so you can keep it running for years. Still, these are basically rubber bands so you can find a replacement very easily.
@@BeaversHobby Then there is not much reason to go with Xrx which plastic seems to be soft and broken easily according to your review. DA should be the one to go with. Thank you. By the way, my main driving surface is super slippery polished wooden floor, shall I choose something grippy tires? Even with careful throttle, 2wd spins out easily.
@@fieldsmall1017 XRX DPA is quite fragile unless you go full aluminium but at that price you might as well buy a Yokomo YD-2SXIII. As for the tyres, DS Racing LF3 or LF4 will do nicely on wooden floor especially when you want a bit more grip speed. I find LF5 very easy to control on wood but it might be too slow. The constant spin out is most likely from the car setup and tyres contact so play around with that a bit until you get the result you want.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply. Being in Japan, YD-2 is affordable here, but it need quite a large space. I have one 1/10, but not really being used. Micro drifter is just a plug and play anywhere in the house.
I got my wlk989 like year ago now ahah watching ur videos inspired me to get something that I can drift in my flat n after modin it it drives really nice now last upgrade was front locking diff was pain to get the 10.5 shafts... but got em.. but this Driftart 2.5 is actually insane all that stuff you can do to it from out the box crazy kwl ahah keep it sideways Hobby 😜 However after all my efforts all the mods I've done now makes it destroy the back n front driving pinion gears extremely fast everything is liberated or grease in dif box's, is there metal gears or a more durable plastic so they don't sheer off 🤔😀 or its more of a case to wear in the diffs to plastic 🤔 stock up on pinion gears 🤔
Hi. Thanks for the review. I just bought this kit. What would your choice be for drifting with this kit, wide / narrow body, wheelbase and rear wheel wide or narrow? I have a few different sizes of mini z bodies and want to set it up the best I can from the start. Thank you.
@@GazVanDyk It's a mix of both. For narrow and small platform I find 94mm works great. If you widen and lengthen it to 1/24 scale then adjust that according to the body and you might have more stability... just because it's bigger.
Hi Beaver, I built DA 2.5 Summer edition, but things don't look well need help to fix it. Do you offer tuning services, if yes where I can contact you?
@@BeaversHobby 1. Rear toe links keeps falling of due to length, if made shorter then wheels toe in too much. 2. Front suspension doesn't bounce back on soft springs, on hard springs front ride height to too jacked up. As the manual pics had different parts then actuals don't know where is the mistake.
@@nitinbhawnani9990 1. Toe or camber? Toe is in a slot and has to relation with the shaft length. If it's in there then it's in, toe is adjusted each side by the screw that goes into the gearbox above. Camber sits on the back but above the drive shaft. Check the parts, there might be longer shaft or ball cap you can use. 2. You will have to turn the coilover (shock preload) up a lot to make it work. Keep adjusting until it gives you bounce at the ride height you want. Normally I find this car with the front higher than rear to work well.
@@BeaversHobby -Thanks for your response master Beaver. 1. I meant camber links (black plastic ballheads with adjustable turnbuckle mounted horizontally). The moment I try to adjust the links for the driveshaft to be in straight line the camber links gets disconnected. 2. What springs do you recommend in front and back, there are 7 sets, 4 small one and 3 long ones. i.e. hard, semihard, soft & verysoft. 3. The car front wheels droop like a inverted "Y" letter" with hard springs when held in hand. Is this normal. 4. You know it will be great if you can do a video on basic RC tuning, I am sure it will help many people like me.
@@nitinbhawnani9990 1. I'm not sure if you can find longer shaft and ball cap but have a look. Otherwise you'll have to find other parts from somewhere else to replace. Check the side where the lower arms go in as well. That might affect the length the camber arms need to be. 2. The softest one. But you'll have to dial in the coilover a lot. 3. Yes, that's normal. You can adjust the droop from the screw on the top. 4. Thanks for the suggestion. This car has quite peculiar setup so I'll have to come back to it someday.
Very informative video, I'm just wondering if you can tell me how adjustable the width is in stock form? I have a 24th model body i want to put on this chassis but need to know what i need to get with it to make it wide enough.
Front with 1mm offset wheel (recommended so there's no rubbing), narrowest = 72.5mm, widest = 81.5mm. Keep in mind that you can still widen it further with wheel offset. As for the rear, you can widen it with wide wheels and offset too so that's not a big problem.
Just another question for you sir, would i be correct in my assumption that i will need the long rear arm set to get it to 77mm wide with 4.5mm offset wide wheels?
@@BeaversHobby so standard rear arms and 1mm offset wide wheels makes 77.5 wide in rear? I've sent message on Facebook as i have a few more questions if you have a few minutes. Just don't want to go buying parts i don't need.
Hi beaver, Nice video. If any one can only afford one drift chassis then what you could recommend them, from the drzv2 or gld or hgd1 or xrx or this one?
If you have a bit of experience building cars, this DriftArt 2.5 is the one to get. Otherwise, DRZ V2 and GLD are more beginner friendly. DRZ V2 doesn't need as much upgrades as GLD so the list would be DriftArt 2.5 then DRZ V2 then GLD.
@@nitinbhawnani9990 You'll need body and wheels, depending on what you want, Mini- Z or 1/24 scale model. The current production of Mini-Z unpainted bodies come with wheels as well so you can get everything in one go, Skyline R32, R33, R34 and Supra all come with AWD wheels perfect for this car already. I'm not sure if you have the transmitter and receiver yet but if not, a budget one is the Radiolink RC4GS and a great one is either Flysky Noble NB4 (that I use) or Sanwa MT-S so you can use micro receiver. Motor: Surpass Rocket 3500KV-5500KV is good. ESC, a budget one is the DasMikro. You can also get Atomic or GL sensorless ESC as well, if you can find one at the same price as DasMikro. Gyro: AFRC GYS-2 V3, the best gyro for micro cars. Almost forgot the battery, GiantPower 300mAh or Turnigy Nanotech 300mah will fit well in the brackets.
The best one is DriftArt 2.6 EX, yes, it's this one. However it also depends on what you are looking for as well. If you want something that's easy to build and can buy from most of RC shops or 1/28 vendors then GLD or Atomic DRZ V2 is a better choice.
@@muaythai193 This is more difficult to build than other 1/28. Not to mention you will have to precisely file a carbon fibre plate. Here's the 2.0 version build video (1st part), ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-k6bsBp8YDpE.html It's similar to this new version.
@@BeaversHobby thanks again for the fast reply! Then it’s 100% the wrong chassis for me. If you had to choose between the GLD & DRZ V2, which one is better? I‘m looking for a chassis which performs the best for smooth RWD drifting.
@@muaythai193 GLD is my personal favourite but DRZ V2 offers more for the money and better out of the box. Try and get the LE version and you will have even better steering.
@@wabadabadooo3405 Summer Edition has some aluminium upgrades. The top one right now is 2.6EX which comes with rolling shocks and adjustable tilting servo.
The chassis itself is quite alright at $179 (by 1/28 standard anyway, 179 is pretty expensive compared to 1/10). The electronics though might eat your budget alive.
Vinyl (basically table cloth) on top of EVA mats to dampening out the sound. The vinyl surface hasn't got any coating at the moment so the car is still pretty fast but at least it's relatively smooth and not very noisy.
It’s nearly impossible to drift smoothly on a track with big curves with 90 mm wheelbase, impossible. It was told by the guy it who packed your first 2.0 and assembled your 2.5🤣🤣🤣 It may surprise you that he is an European theoretically😂😂😂