[Review] DriftArt 2.5 CC Why is it so good? | Unboxing & Test Drive 

DriftArt did it for me so I can go straight to reviewing.

Oh... I can feel a lot more is coming your way. Once you get addicted there's no way out especially if you live near a circuit. 😆

@@BeaversHobby it doesn’t help that my whole house is polished concrete 😂

I have both the AFRC GYS-2 V3 and the $5.00 GYC300 gyros on order. Can you tell me what the main differences are? Does the GYC300 even work well at all in comparison?

@@sideburn Reaction is different, the GYC300 isn't as quick to response or counter steer as the AFRC. Also the servo angle which it operates is better on AFRC. Basically a better gyro will be faster to react, more precise to react and will make it easier to drift.

@@BeaversHobby ahhh thanks for the info. Can’t wait to try it out on the 284131. Tempted to get a drift art. Maybe later after I get more experience. I’ll have to figure out the best esc, motor, Rx/Tx options.

If the hole is smooth and you can pull the screw straight out then take all the screws off and use superglue/CA, put it on a toothpick then rub the wall inside the hole to build up a layer. If it can screw in fine but the bolt won't hold then you can use the thread lock/loctite low strength.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you Beaver, appreciate your support.

Hello. Best of luck with your channel!

You don't need a gyro for AWD. It does help though but you don't need it to drift well.

Yes, it is. The plastic parts are pretty tough and pliable.

They're not oil shocks but the arrangement makes them work really close to 1/10 weight shift and dampening.

@@BeaversHobby Oh, so that's not true. Well still it looks really good though Need to see ur next video about the best kit in 2022... or 2021?

@@harukaze5408 At this point it'd be for 2022.

DasMikro V3 ESC bit.ly/3mYOVkd Surpass Rocket 3500KV or 5500KV bit.ly/3ircxKC The motor is the cheapest you can get but it's really good, the ESC is good as well, I use V1 and V2, haven't tried V3 yet. You can also try and find Atomic ESC, it should be around $35.

@@BeaversHobby thanks for the links, will definitely check out and see if I can find an atomic esc, if not the v3 looks decent. Much appreciated 🙏

@@art42000 My pleasure.

The previous was 2.0 and then they jumped to 2.5. It's not the easiest car to assemble and get the setup right. If you have no experience building cars I highly recommend GL Racing GLD or Atomic DRZ V2. They are more beginner friendly.

Unfortunately no, it doesn't fit.

DriftArt 2.5 (will call it DA from now on) is easier to tune and it has better steering out of the box. XRX can do parallel steering too but with a bit of adjustment and you'll extend the front width so it's going to be a much wider car than it already is. Also DA servo assembly needs less maintenance than XRX. The XRX slicing rail will come loose after some time so you'll have to keep adjusting it. DA won't be like that because steering is direct from servo. DA has a bunch of upgrades, even though they are not entirely necessary, they are really nice and will increase the durability especially aluminium bulkhead, servo mount and knuckles.

@@BeaversHobby Thanks for your excellent advise, will stick to DA..

@@nitinbhawnani9990 My pleasure.

The belt will last really long before it starts to stretch. The kit also comes with many spare belts so you can keep it running for years. Still, these are basically rubber bands so you can find a replacement very easily.

@@BeaversHobby Then there is not much reason to go with Xrx which plastic seems to be soft and broken easily according to your review. DA should be the one to go with. Thank you. By the way, my main driving surface is super slippery polished wooden floor, shall I choose something grippy tires? Even with careful throttle, 2wd spins out easily.

@@fieldsmall1017 XRX DPA is quite fragile unless you go full aluminium but at that price you might as well buy a Yokomo YD-2SXIII. As for the tyres, DS Racing LF3 or LF4 will do nicely on wooden floor especially when you want a bit more grip speed. I find LF5 very easy to control on wood but it might be too slow. The constant spin out is most likely from the car setup and tyres contact so play around with that a bit until you get the result you want.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply. Being in Japan, YD-2 is affordable here, but it need quite a large space. I have one 1/10, but not really being used. Micro drifter is just a plug and play anywhere in the house.

@@fieldsmall1017 Me too. That's the reason I mainly play 1/28.

There're metal centre shaft pinions on aliexpress that you can use with metal ball diffs so they won't chew each other out.

I usually do 94mm wheelbase with narrow body because that's where the most JDM bodies are.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you. So it’s more a body aesthetic preference rather than a performance advantage.

@@GazVanDyk It's a mix of both. For narrow and small platform I find 94mm works great. If you widen and lengthen it to 1/24 scale then adjust that according to the body and you might have more stability... just because it's bigger.

It comes with extra springs already, no need to buy separately.

Unfortunately I don't do building or fixing service. What seems to be the problem?

@@BeaversHobby 1. Rear toe links keeps falling of due to length, if made shorter then wheels toe in too much. 2. Front suspension doesn't bounce back on soft springs, on hard springs front ride height to too jacked up. As the manual pics had different parts then actuals don't know where is the mistake.

@@nitinbhawnani9990 1. Toe or camber? Toe is in a slot and has to relation with the shaft length. If it's in there then it's in, toe is adjusted each side by the screw that goes into the gearbox above. Camber sits on the back but above the drive shaft. Check the parts, there might be longer shaft or ball cap you can use. 2. You will have to turn the coilover (shock preload) up a lot to make it work. Keep adjusting until it gives you bounce at the ride height you want. Normally I find this car with the front higher than rear to work well.

@@BeaversHobby -Thanks for your response master Beaver. 1. I meant camber links (black plastic ballheads with adjustable turnbuckle mounted horizontally). The moment I try to adjust the links for the driveshaft to be in straight line the camber links gets disconnected. 2. What springs do you recommend in front and back, there are 7 sets, 4 small one and 3 long ones. i.e. hard, semihard, soft & verysoft. 3. The car front wheels droop like a inverted "Y" letter" with hard springs when held in hand. Is this normal. 4. You know it will be great if you can do a video on basic RC tuning, I am sure it will help many people like me.

@@nitinbhawnani9990 1. I'm not sure if you can find longer shaft and ball cap but have a look. Otherwise you'll have to find other parts from somewhere else to replace. Check the side where the lower arms go in as well. That might affect the length the camber arms need to be. 2. The softest one. But you'll have to dial in the coilover a lot. 3. Yes, that's normal. You can adjust the droop from the screw on the top. 4. Thanks for the suggestion. This car has quite peculiar setup so I'll have to come back to it someday.

Check out GT55 store. gt55racing.aliexpress.com/store/1101693754

Front with 1mm offset wheel (recommended so there's no rubbing), narrowest = 72.5mm, widest = 81.5mm. Keep in mind that you can still widen it further with wheel offset. As for the rear, you can widen it with wide wheels and offset too so that's not a big problem.

Thanks for the reply! Helped alot

Just another question for you sir, would i be correct in my assumption that i will need the long rear arm set to get it to 77mm wide with 4.5mm offset wide wheels?

@@joelhull09 It'll be 77.5mm with 1mm offset wide wheels. If you use 4.5mm offset wide wheels you'll get 84.5mm.

@@BeaversHobby so standard rear arms and 1mm offset wide wheels makes 77.5 wide in rear? I've sent message on Facebook as i have a few more questions if you have a few minutes. Just don't want to go buying parts i don't need.

5500KV

If you have a bit of experience building cars, this DriftArt 2.5 is the one to get. Otherwise, DRZ V2 and GLD are more beginner friendly. DRZ V2 doesn't need as much upgrades as GLD so the list would be DriftArt 2.5 then DRZ V2 then GLD.

@@BeaversHobby Thanks, can you please share the recommended part list to build a full drift car with this chassis.

​@@nitinbhawnani9990 You'll need body and wheels, depending on what you want, Mini- Z or 1/24 scale model. The current production of Mini-Z unpainted bodies come with wheels as well so you can get everything in one go, Skyline R32, R33, R34 and Supra all come with AWD wheels perfect for this car already. I'm not sure if you have the transmitter and receiver yet but if not, a budget one is the Radiolink RC4GS and a great one is either Flysky Noble NB4 (that I use) or Sanwa MT-S so you can use micro receiver. Motor: Surpass Rocket 3500KV-5500KV is good. ESC, a budget one is the DasMikro. You can also get Atomic or GL sensorless ESC as well, if you can find one at the same price as DasMikro. Gyro: AFRC GYS-2 V3, the best gyro for micro cars. Almost forgot the battery, GiantPower 300mAh or Turnigy Nanotech 300mah will fit well in the brackets.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much.. thanks for sharing your excellent knowledge.

@@nitinbhawnani9990 My pleasure.

The best one is DriftArt 2.6 EX, yes, it's this one. However it also depends on what you are looking for as well. If you want something that's easy to build and can buy from most of RC shops or 1/28 vendors then GLD or Atomic DRZ V2 is a better choice.

@@BeaversHobby thanks! What do you mean by easily build? Is this harder to build?

@@muaythai193 This is more difficult to build than other 1/28. Not to mention you will have to precisely file a carbon fibre plate. Here's the 2.0 version build video (1st part), ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-k6bsBp8YDpE.html It's similar to this new version.

@@BeaversHobby thanks again for the fast reply! Then it’s 100% the wrong chassis for me. If you had to choose between the GLD & DRZ V2, which one is better? I‘m looking for a chassis which performs the best for smooth RWD drifting.

@@muaythai193 GLD is my personal favourite but DRZ V2 offers more for the money and better out of the box. Try and get the LE version and you will have even better steering.

Unfortunately, no. You can buy it with the kit but it won't come as standard.

@@BeaversHobby also what is the difference between the 2.5 classic and the summer edition?

@@wabadabadooo3405 Summer Edition has some aluminium upgrades. The top one right now is 2.6EX which comes with rolling shocks and adjustable tilting servo.

My local shop has... at this point it's probably "had" it in store as discount for old parts and I managed to snatched it before someone else.

@@BeaversHobby Wow... you were super lucky! It's impossible to find one now.

@@MiniRCDrifterHan Unfortunately I missed out on 350Z Nismo and Ferrari 599XX so I'm really glad I got this one.

@@BeaversHobby That's sad but I think you were lucky enough by getting S2000!

The chassis itself is quite alright at $179 (by 1/28 standard anyway, 179 is pretty expensive compared to 1/10). The electronics though might eat your budget alive.

It's on GT55 www.gt55racing.com/

可以寄到台灣嗎

@@wenpintseng4746 I think so. You will need to contact the shop for that but they ship pretty much anywhere.

Vinyl (basically table cloth) on top of EVA mats to dampening out the sound. The vinyl surface hasn't got any coating at the moment so the car is still pretty fast but at least it's relatively smooth and not very noisy.