Beautiful, practical and versatile. This video will explain why the Explore Scientific ED102 is just about the perfect scope for visual astronomy and astrophotography!
Great video! I have an earlier version of this (FDC1), also in carbon fiber, and have a question for you. I typically need to use 2 of the extension tubes - for the ASI1600 and the 2600. Otherwise, I can’t reach focus. Mine doesn’t have the hex focuser, but a really not up to par 2” rack-and-pinion that I’m constantly fighting with!
Have you had a chance to take some photos without the reducer? If the photos are good and just need a little cropping on the edges you will have 2 scopes in 1. With 2 cameras like you said, you have even more focal lengths.
@@keystothecosmos7527 The sensor is the IMX571 which is 23.5 by 15.7mm while the 6200 sensor is the IMX455, 36 by 24mm. I am not sure where the option to shoot Full Frame on the 2600 camera if the sensor is physically smaller. As alway, clear skies.
A 102mm telescope will have a maximum useable magnification of about 204X so using a 4x or 5x Barlow (as mentioned in the video) could take it over the "useable" limit.
Very nice scope, nice focal length both for visual and imaging. I am looking to get the cheaper Essential series version with the HOYA FCD1 extra-low dispersion (ED) glass and proprietary EMD enhanced multi-layer coatings, and also get the 0.7x reducer/flattener as you mentioned. Just need to make sure i don't forget the adapter. There is also the aluminum version that has the more expensive FCD100 glass, and the most expensive is the carbon fiber version which is what you have here, but this is a bit out of my budget. Thank you for a nice informative video. Clear skies!
@@Astronurd If you give the telescope time to cool to ambient temperature, using this scope for high magnification visual observations or imaging of bright objects (moon, planets, bright double stars...) and you are relatively young with excellent visual acuity, then you MAY notice the difference between equal-quality 102mm objectives with FCD-100 versus FPL53.. If you are doing Deep Sky Imaging, using a quality flattener/reducer, not oversampling the image, generally dealing with typical southern Ontario seeing conditions, and re-focusing between filters (in a mono camera set-up), then the FCD-100 should be more than good enough.
Thank you. So I've tried a few places. Blacks (Canadian company) seems to be the most consistent. I'm thinking of just trying Costco though as I've heard they do a good job and for considerably cheaper
Just bought an 127 maxvission triplet the same explore scientific scope has the white painted ed glass same, i have a question when moving and roalling the telescope tube do you hear movement in front of scope, like the glass is moving or roling Inside the cell, and that focuser wobbles after 15mm tube travel and the focuser rotation was frozen to tite from factory, now i going to buy a explore scientific hex replacement better bearing focuser for another 3 hundred dollars, we do pick expensive hobbies LOL, CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR ED MAKES NOICE UP FRONT, IAM CURIUS.
@@keystothecosmos7527 By any change are you Portuguese ?, i seen some pictures to your right on the video, and i have a uncle that lives in Canada near new York boarder, clear skies mate. came to America front Acores porta delgader, at 11 years old now iam 67 and retired. clear skies mate.
@@keystothecosmos7527 no I was wondering is it was compatible with the ed102 because it’s a 3inch. And on explore Scientific site it said it’s for the ed127. I just wanted to know your experience with it. Thanks
@@devindrasingh913 I see. So I initially had it on my ED102 and it required an adapter to fit. When I purchased the ED127, it fit directly on using the same adapter. So I could switch back and forth from each scope without adjusting it once the adapter was installed
Speaking as a retired pro photographer, your lighting is creating shadows under your eyebrows (called Racoon lighting) and to avoid it just add another light around eye level and position it to fill in those shadows. Depending on the light above you, you might get by with just adding a large white piece of cardboard just under your lens and angled to bounce light onto your face.
