Please turn off "Stable Volume" in the video playback setting (the first menu item after clicking the gear icon) as for some reason, this new RU-vid playback feature made the video much noisier than usual.
i have the same model DH30 from BIFRC. i can get good welds on 0.12mm nickel strips using power #10.. just use a very light pressure on the tips or else your welds wont stick.
@KerryWongBlog Your spot welder reviews can be improved by: (1) measuring the cell AC-IR (2) measuring some path AC-IR values (3) based on those measurement, making some estimation above which cell AC-IR value the spot welder can be considered EOL (4) supply a value for the distance between the tips, is that more like 2, 4 or 7 millimeter?
Late to the party but you're pressing very firm on the electrodes. While this is intuitive it's actually reducing the weld strength. The heat comes from the resistance, so just make sure to have good contact but don't press hard.
mine stuck on beeping the power on sound and it is not closing up. It continues this sound, anyway to reset it ??? i used only 4 times, ver very poor quality
@Bubol no I haven't... maybe it can help sorting the capacitor next to the main chip (it resets the device) . It helped some times but then again the same. I bought another company spot welder
I am on a lookout for a fine adjustable spot welder for doing sensitive electronics. The idea is to adjust for minimum exposure time / minimum amps so that the weld between the nickel strip and the 389 Renata button cell battery is just good enough to keep them together, without frying the electronics behind the nickel strip. Is there some spot welding guide that says exactly what settings would be safe for application like this?
You need to experiment yourself, using the new nickel strips and some old batteries. There are too many variables for anyone to give you a definitive answer.
Nice job. I think the fact that you were able to peel the nickel strip off the battery demonstrates that the welds were unsuccessful. The metals did not fuse. What if you put one tip on the battery terminal and the other on the nickel strip? That should ensure that all the energy goes through contact point(s) rather than bypassing the junction through the nickel strip.
I was typing the same thing and then saw this. Yeah, the welds were no good. There was almost no sign on the battery after they had been pulled away that it was ever welded. I dont think this is putting out enough current to get a good weld. Maybe if you paralleled two together.
Agree. I have one of these and had to screw around to get a decent weld, sometimes lighter pressure would help heat the material more, and as you said one tip on the battery seemed to be better. Something is not really right with this thing, maybe its just the battery voltage/current capacity is too low.
I think its just that there is not enough current. I have an old Hughes capacitive discharge welder and it puts out so much current that the weld cables actually jump apart when it fires. And this is the smallest model they made. I use it for welding tungsten filaments to bases for my SEM.
@@jaro6985 that’s not going to help. The caps themselves will just make things worse, they need to be charged before and dumped at the same time the spot welder fires. The second issue is that the ESR of most super caps Is pretty high which will limit the current, possibly less than the battery. Best option it just to add another battery in parallel with the existing one and hope the mosfets hold up.
Light touch! keep the contact point resistance high for max heat. I see your hands are trembling from all force you are applying. I see others mention this. Have you tried and seen the difference in weld quality? Great review! I'm buying this one, $40 Amazon one day shipping!
Old post. Haven't done a lot of welds with mine, but after having it for a year, during some welds the output power has dropped to like 20% (guessing) of what it was and won't return. They're only about €35 at the moment from China, so will do for a disposable item for a project or something, but they certainly aren't a buy it for life thing.
Friend, I had a bifrc dh30. I went to recharge it with a Type-C cable that I made myself but unfortunately I made the connections reversed in the Type C jack and ended up burning the sop-8 pin IC "IP5306" (that you point with the pen at 12 minutes into the video). The bottom part at the exact point where this component is welded ended up carbonizing and also part of the tracks, as well as the IC itself. I'm an idiot I know. I'm going to buy a DH30 Max, but I would like to use the DH30 board for something (mosfets and eventually some spare parts in the future for the new dh30 max, if necessary). Would you know if the mosfets are compatible between these devices? Thank you very much.
I have seen these devices using different MOSFETs even within the same brand, so the best way is if you look at your specific DH30 and find out. If the Rdson of the MOSFETs are identical and each MOSFET is individually driven, you could use them interchangeably.
