Reviewing all my Climbing Shoes

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Basically an Introduction to Climbing Shoes. I go over all models I own, from still in use, to worn down way back in the day. Stuff for Beginners and Advanced Climbers, for Boulderers and Sport Climbers, and whatever else is climbing out there.
Links to the imo best shoes (excluding 5.10 Team and Dragon cause out of production :'( , excluding La Sportiva Miura original cause it got refurbished and I don't know if it's any good :'(, excluding La Sportiva Testarossa cause it got refurbished, and has now Vibram XSGrip2 rubber :'( , which sadly leaves us with only 2 models I can really recommend at the moment):
Scarpa Instinct VS:
amzn.to/3iu6Ueq (US)
amzn.to/38q6Jfs (DE)
Scarpa Vapor (maybe the best Beginner Shoe):
amzn.to/3iQuQJ9 (US)
amzn.to/2ZiwCel (DE)
Time Stamps:
Scarpa Instinct VS 1:02
Scarpa Drago 1:57
La Sportiva Katana 3:33
5.10 Team 5:23
La Sportiva Solution 9:04
Scarpa Vapor 11:30
La Sportiva Python 14:00
La Sportiva Speedster 17:59
La Sportiva Miura (Original) 21:04
La Sportiva Testarossa 23:54
La Sportiva Miura VS (Ladies) 27:15
5.10 Dragon 29:23
Tanaya Oasi 33:20
Andrea Boldrini Scorpio 35:31
Let me know your opinion by dropping a like and comment, thanks, appreciated, stay strong, and I'll see you soon in the next one!
Reviewing all my Climbing Shoes by Mani the Monkey
Extra Content @ / manithemonkey
Tip Box @ www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney , thanks!
Streaming Channel: / @demanitized947
Climbing Gear I can recommend:
Favourite Bouldering Shoe: goo.gl/cyNsL4
Favourite Sport Climbing Shoe: goo.gl/3d65PW
Pretty Awesome Beginner Shoe: goo.gl/TrkKiM
Fine Hangboard: goo.gl/X71Ns1
Favourite Belaying Device: goo.gl/6g5yeC
Favourite Harness: goo.gl/Dm9k8L
Favourite Quickdraws: goo.gl/T5iHQ2
Excellent Approach and Hiking Shoe: goo.gl/eNPbrZ
Not Super Expensive but Versatile, Durable and Overall Great Rope: goo.gl/65BNf6
Top Performance but Expensive Rope: goo.gl/JHsDHt
Crashpad: I use the Mondo from Black Diamond, which is definitely recommendable, but apparently not available from Amazon. If I had to rely on Amazon, I’d get this Beast: goo.gl/PScBhw
Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos:
Small Camera: goo.gl/7JHuHd
Big Camera: goo.gl/iRwk5p
Tripod: goo.gl/kQnMtz
Microphone: goo.gl/HW6dm2
Audiorecorder: goo.gl/XpnpHV
Editing Machine (using FCPX): goo.gl/t9EaL3
For those interested in Nutrition:
I wrote a little E-book about my Take on Diet, Health and Weight Loss including a one-week example Meal Plan (currently unavailable because I changed a thing or two and need to update that): goo.gl/cgaux4
Transparency and Disclaimer:
Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases will grant me a small Commission. Since climbing gear represents a quite small niche, everything is not sold from every single Amazon store, thus not all countries are supported. However the US, UK and Germany are fully covered, you should find all of the recommended gear in these stores. And in case you're not into longer shipping, why not support your local climbing shop :)
For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com
Instagram: / manithemonkey
Mani's Ticklist: www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer
Featured Music:
Back to the 90's Free by Hip Hop Beats

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Опубликовано:

14 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 110

@minime453 4 года назад

I think I like buying climbing shoes more than I like climbing

@ManitheMonkey 4 года назад

haha I can't say I agree, but yeah give it enough time and the collection grows and grows...

@Miura.Powers 4 года назад

Found my Soulmate

@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 4 года назад

Right? 😂😂😂

@AeRaax 3 года назад

I love both but ya for me climbing shoes are way more superior to sneakers and other stuff

@humanimal5527 3 года назад

For me buying climbing shoes has been the biggest headache associated with climbing.

@ManitheMonkey 4 года назад

Drop a like and comment to let me know if you enjoyed, thanks, appreciated, here are some chapters for the content skipping heretics: Scarpa Instinct VS 1:02 Scarpa Drago 1:57 La Sportiva Katana 3:33 5.10 Team 5:23 La Sportiva Solution 9:04 Scarpa Vapor 11:30 La Sportiva Python 14:00 La Sportiva Speedster 17:59 La Sportiva Miura (Original) 21:04 La Sportiva Testarossa 23:54 La Sportiva Miura VS (Ladies) 27:15 5.10 Dragon 29:23 Tanaya Oasi 33:20 Andrea Boldrini Scorpio 35:31 Keep crushing, and I'll see you in the next one!

@ozgur4921 3 года назад

Mani hi, I have been using five ten team which I bought after watching one of your videos and I am so really grateful for your recommendation. However my existing pair is getting worn and there is no resoler in my area. Which shoe would you recommend that would be similar to 5.10 team, as the team is discontinued. Thanks for your honest reviews and videos.👍👍

@stephengonzalez7879 6 месяцев назад

This video is so underrated. Every climber should watch this before buying shoes! Thank you for this great content with actual worn shoes!

@Yncipher 4 года назад

Thank you for confirming my thoughts! I actually do the same as you Mani when it comes to resoling I prefer Stealth instead using again XsGrip or any other rubber.

@MPBuis 4 года назад

The La Sportiva miura woman is also available in a lace version. It's my favorite shoe!

@millacabral9475 3 года назад

I have the Tenaya OASI low volume and I personally love them. The rubber type doesn't bother me at all, the closure system lets me adjust the fit nicely (no air pockets) and the shoe is nice and narrow, with a good edge. The toe patch is on the thin side, which makes toe hooking a bit painful tbh, but the heel is one of the few that I've tried that actually fits my foot properly. All the other popular brands like scarpa and la sportiva have this protruding angular heel that just creates a big pocket of air for me. I also don't like how most brands press super hard on your Achilles when you fasten the shoe properly. From experience the OASI is one of the cheapest "good shoes", around 160$ on the epic TV shop, while most La Sportiva shoes sell around 190$.

@joshuawestlund 4 месяца назад

I really enjoy listening to this guy.

@nicholaslittle2312 3 года назад

I just learnt a great deal about climbing shoes and which ones last longest, what they can do and how they fit. Thank you so much! This was also perfect for me because I have a narrow foot which is asymmetric (the big toe is longest and sticks out to the side).

@eSKAone- Месяц назад

Excellent. Never delete this! 🌌💟

@lasombreo2 4 года назад

New Testarossa’s are really good! Heel “issue” is fixed and overall comfort is improved I think, if you liked previous once you should try them!

@occa0800 4 года назад

Scarpa Mago - Great shoe but unfortunately the heel is way too baggy

@philipppuchner1115 4 года назад

New red Testa has a new heel, yes. But the rest of the shoes has changed. The shape is the same, but the materials feel stiffer when putting on a brand new shoe. The material is thicker. Also the toe box is a bit roomier in hight. Also it is supposed to be a little stiffer averall and the stepping has changed a bit. With the old Testa you stand under your big toe, you use the concave shape. With the new one you stand more on the edge of the rubber. I believe the best climbing shoe what pure stepping is concerned is the old Testarossa. Maybe the Team Black (USA, not that changed (since) 2019 made in China shoe) comes close or is on par for some people, but the original Sportiva Testarossa hits a certain sweetspot so perfectly... Too bad you cannot just put a Scarpa Instinct heel on the original Testarossa and that's it. As Nathan from Scarpa explains often: "You cannot just fiddle with one layer (of the shoe) without affecting the characteristics of the whole shoe." Think of the shoe as a whole: the construction of the tension rands with run fron the toe box back to the heel and then have to be finalised in a way. They cannot just stop and you glue a big rubber ball on it to have a decent heel. The whole shoe is one tension system.

@TeleBoltGirl 4 года назад

I’ve just finished to destroy my last pair of 5.10 hiangle...this video comes in the right moment :D thx man!

@occa0800 4 года назад

Definitiv interessiert an einem Detailvideo zu den Testarossas. Sind meine Lieblingsschuhe zum Routenklettern, auch wenn ich nicht in den gleichen Graden wie du unterwegs bin ;) anyway, teile auch gerne deine neuen Erfahrungen, die du entweder mit deinem derzeitigen Modell oder auch mit dem Facelift-Modell machen wirst. Gerne auch mit footage vom Fels!

@georgeholmes2322 4 года назад

I believe the Tenaya shoes use XS Grip rubber, while la sportiva uses XS Grip2 rubber (softer and less durable). I think it would be great if sportiva offered regular XS Grip rubber on some of its shoes. Great video and very informative 👍🏻.

@thesii213 4 года назад

Based on durometer it's the other way around actually. XS Grip is around 70 and XS Grip 2 is around 74 (this is per an old Vibram resoling catalogue I've seen floating around the internet).

@MusicScala 4 года назад

39 minutes of pure goodness :D

@hel1nas 4 года назад

Nice idea to review them!!! your t-shirt reminds the movie they live..

@asedutaru7647 9 месяцев назад

Every time I want to have a new pair of shoes I return to this video

@jdsc100 4 года назад

Good video mani. You seem to like the Instinct VS, have you tried the VSR?

@dabaer1338 4 года назад

I like the Scarpa VSR for bouldering

@YiZongOng 4 года назад

Hey Mani! I've been resoling my shoes with this guy George from Greece, Papoytsi Repair Services? I think? I'm definitely not sponsored but having resoled in other places, I've found George does an amazing job! Thanks for your content and I think we can all feel with you having your favourite shoe discontinued😩

@mikemarcus7442 3 года назад

I’ve tried a number of times to contact papoytsi and my email has always been ignored. I assumed they were out of business.

@YiZongOng 3 года назад

@@mikemarcus7442 try them on Facebook, they're more active on that

@mikemarcus7442 3 года назад

yz o2 that requires having a Facebook account :-)

@AUREOLAX88 2 года назад

very nice video thank you!

@ip2862 2 года назад

You were wondering why La Sportiva shoes that came after the Testarossa didn't seem to hold their downturn. Might that have coincided with Mariacher's move to Scarpa? I know it's probably over-simplistic to emphasize the importance of one particular person - but I think it's fair to say that he's been hugely influential in modern climbing shoe design. Both the original Miura and the Testarossa were his.

@danielpicon8012 2 года назад

Legend has it that he’s still pulling…

@sonnymorgan4680 4 года назад

Time to give shoes by Evolv a try. 👍

@svecmobiii 4 года назад

Have you tried the mad rock haywire ? They remind me of the 5.10 team. I know the 5.10 team is really hard to find now I think you would like the haywire.

@dieterwassner3598 4 года назад

meine erfahrung mit no edge ist genau das gegenteil von deiner. da meine zehen näher am fels sind, spüre ich besser ob ich sicher auf einem kleinen tritt stehe als mit einem gewöhnlichen schuh, wo die kanten ja etwas entfernt vom fuß sind. du kletterst natürlich auf deutlich höherem niveau, aber für mich war no edge bisher am fels ein großer benefit.

@davidsimpson3885 4 года назад

got to say having tried various shoes, never get shoes to tight unless you are climbing at pro Level it doesnt make as much difference as people think, as long as the rubber is halfway soft the shoes never made a difference to my ability for indoor bouldering, for Outdoor climbing getting a not Split Sole that is a bit stiffer is the way to go, less foot fatigue on a long route with small edges,

@andersonboy620 2 года назад

I have learnt a few things with your video. The non edge technology being not that useful is one of them and I already kind of suspected that. Have you ever tried Boreal climbing shoes?

@rpete5552 3 года назад

10:12 a ghost closes the door behind him

@philipppuchner1115 4 года назад

SCRN but where did you get all those climbing shoes with these awesome "Lasers" :) Probably a good idea for a comic: Mani the Monkey needs climbing shoes with lasers. Maybe a climbing comic? Maybe those Lasers really help with hitting the holds? Who has the better Lasers, Sportiva or Scarpa? Did you try the Scarpa Instinct Lasers? Man, i could go on and on now :)

@pere-sabre4007 Месяц назад

The guy who design almost all lasportiva shoes is, nowadays, working with scarpa...

@jesolla 2 года назад

I just bought the tenaya iati and I absolutely love how comfortable they are and i’ve tried pretty much every agressive shoes I could find and nothing came close. I also have very narrow feet tho. Btw which rubber do you use when resoling a soft rubber shoe, for max durability.

@miloplayz7474 3 месяца назад

If you still care, he said in the video that he resoles with stealth- presumably stealth HF cuz it’s the rubber of the team

@chrisr33d 4 года назад

Great video Mani, thanks! Is there a shoe you would recommend for mostly indoor but also outdoor climbing?

@audiojck1 4 года назад

I think some more detail would be helpful 😉 Every climbing shoe works for indoor and outdoor use. If you are a beginner get an entry level model like the Tarantula. You will wear them out relatively quickly anyway. You can upgrade later and then you know what you want. Most important thing is that they fit your foot well. All other performance features are more or less irrelevant at the beginning.

@ugiboogy1111 3 года назад

@@audiojck1 don't get tarantulace, it sucks. get the la sportiva finale instead. better rubber and fit, still a beginner shoe.

@audiojck1 3 года назад

@@ugiboogy1111 i personally think the Tarantulas are good basic shoes. The Finales don't fit my feet sadly.

@ugiboogy1111 3 года назад

@@audiojck1 that's understandable then, a good fit is better than any other factor. tarantulas fit me very poorly

@guapybalboa1927 Год назад

@@ugiboogy1111 lol so you just sayin they suck cuz they fit you poorly?

@racctor 3 года назад

since the miura and the testarossa both seem very pointy/ precise, how would you say they differ from each other and in which terrain would you choose one over the other? I consider buying one of those rn.

@mathias3068 3 года назад

Miura is wayyyy more supportive and id say can be used more as an all rounder! Testarossa has a split sole and id say its designed for hard overhanging sport routes. If you're still looking after 7 months, hope this helps :)

@edcunningham5562 4 года назад

You should try the new Tenaya Mastia, its super nice

@philipppuchner1115 4 года назад

Mani has small/narrow feet, the Mastia is extremely wide + high volume cpmpared to other Tenaya shoes before! I know, if i had way less space around my ankles, i would have fallen in Love with the Mastia. But i had to return them.

@jensahaa2018 4 года назад

Great video! How many shoes/resoles do you go through per year? Have you tried La Sportiva Skwama, I think they are great! Also you should have the microphone above you, overhead, the mic stand looks tall enough.

@jpegkimchii 3 года назад

The Skwamas are good but the heel is just too weird. It seems to only fit some people.

@jaronivanisko9811 4 года назад

Tenaya oasi uses xs grip 1 not 2. Might be why it lasted longer.

@KarlJean_B 4 года назад

Hi Many! Awesome vid as usual ;) My question is, which shoe do you think best "mimics" the 5.10 team?

@ManitheMonkey 4 года назад

Check out unparallel, I've heard they produce models similar to the old 5.10 high performance shoes.

@theopinson3851 4 года назад

Mani! I know you’re crushed by Five Ten discontinuing the Team (for now?). Have you tried the new HiAngle (White)? They added a split sole which makes the shoe much softer compared to the older blue model and IMO it’s a huge upgrade. Also the heel is amazing...best fitting heel I’ve ever worn. Worth a shot if Five Ten fits your feet.

@philipppuchner1115 4 года назад

@@theopinson3851 I beliebe Mani has small/narrow feet and the new white HiAngle is way roomier than the previous one. Heel wise: the best heel for MY small heels is the HiAngle (2016, grey/aqua) :)

@gryphon940 8 месяцев назад

What would you recommend for a durable high performance shoe? I've head the high performance shoes tend to wear out quicker. What would be a good middle ground between high performance and long lasting for indoor climbing lead climbing and indoor bouldering with the occasional 3 times a year outdoor climb.

@ozgur4921 3 года назад

Mani hi, I have been using five ten team which I bought after watching one of your videos and I am so glad with your recommendation. However my existing pair is getting worn and there is no resoler in my area. Which shoe would you recommend that would be similar to team, as the team is discontinued. Thanks for your honest reviews and videos.🙋🏻‍♂️

@RefactoringRyan 3 года назад

Looking to buy my first pair and I am also interested in your opinion Mani!

@5upl1an 4 года назад

I am currently using the La Sportiva Solution (bought it about a year ago) and the rubber on the toes just started to slightly wear off, so the durability of the sole is actually quite nice I would say, BUT just like yuo said the biggest problem is the closure system, the band is totally messed up. It broke on one shoe completly (I had to "repair" it with a knot and now its hard to put it on) and I can see that it will soon break an the other shoe as well...I will never again buy a climbing shoe with such stupid closure system!

@Brunoontenkul 3 года назад

If you buy them small enough you dont need to close them tight and the durability is much better got a pair for 2 years 3 resole and strap still intact

@alenplut6278 2 года назад

Yep same here. Bought smaller and my straps still last after 4 years

@ferrells0987 3 года назад

anybody reminded of that scene from silence of the lambs at the start of this video? buffalo bill in the basement?

@isaiahwilliams419 2 года назад

But is it good for slightly overhanging to vertical terrain?

@zbo1 4 года назад

Did you not have a pair of Scarpa Mago in a vid?

@jonnes__4657 3 года назад

🐱‍👤I currently use the La Sportiva Otaki, but have not much experience with it. For me it's quite comfortable. I'm also interestet in the La Sportiva Skwama and in the Tenaya Mundaka. .

@jeanpaulooopsn5976 3 года назад

Have u bought a New paar how did u like the otaki long term?

@jonnes__4657 3 года назад

@@jeanpaulooopsn5976 Hi, I didn't wear the Otaki often. It fits good, but the sole is a bit stiff and the rubber is quite hard. So friction on the wall and on volumes is not that good. I now use the Scarpa Instinct VSR: Size +1,5 (EU) to the Otaki. The rubber is soft, and the feeling ist good.

@maxwecker5563 4 года назад

You think 5 10 team is good for route climbing? I mostly only do sport routes and im a beginer, mostly vertical in hot lime stone here in spain sround 6b grade xdd.. (?)

@alexantone5532 4 года назад

If you’re a beginner, I think the shoe doesn’t matter that much as long as it’s moderately hard

@philipppuchner1115 4 года назад

The teams are very agressive and very soft weapons! They are the last thing a beginner wants to have! Way too painfull and non supportive, rubber gone through in record time. Waste of money. And fit wise: beginners will use this shoe definitely multiples sizes too big! So please please forget agressive shoes for beginners!

@Czab Год назад

I am a big climbing gear freak myself. I have tons of everything... except shoes. I have two pairs of shoes, one for multipitch/trad stuff and the other for everything else. I don't understand why I should need more.

@gpparfait2118 4 года назад

Sharp left foot ruining a shoe in one hour on Albarracin, sounds like "la Fuente" isn't it ?

@compellingpeople 4 года назад

Speedsters sound like it was designed for speed climbing where you don't need percise feet.

@Ty-dp7qq 2 года назад

Dude, your door in hall mysteriously open. 26:14 , Creepy

@guapybalboa1927 Год назад

Closes too at 10 something

@oscar-vx2od 3 года назад

Hello Mani I have one pair of five ten team but in 41,5 are you interested ? Xoxo

@winston_peters1368 4 года назад

The python isn't edge rubber its xsgrip

@florianunterfrauner2041 4 года назад

What is the difference between Scarpa Varpor and Scarpa Varpor V?

@elliotmin6246 3 года назад

V = Velcro

@Jonas95 3 года назад

The Vapor V is also slightly asymmetric and downturned unlike the Vapor he presented. Moreover, the sole is now divided into two pieces of rubber and has a better tension system. I think the Vapor V is a great shoe for intermediate climbers to replace a beginner shoe. It is absolutely not a beginner shoe in the 2019 config

@dustinluckenbill5428 4 года назад

Katana Velcro Men's - XS Edge Katana Velcro Women's - XS Grip2 Scarpa Vapor V Men's - XS Edge Scarpa Vapor V Women's - XS Grip2 So it's not fair to compare rubber of Katana Velcro Women to Scarpa Vapor V Men's.

@philipppuchner1115 4 года назад

The orange Scarpa Vapor V (produced 2010-2014) came with XS Edge and XS Grip 2. I just don't know in what year they came with what rubber. Also the yellow Katana VCS came with XS Grip and then after it with XS Edge. The Women's model with XS Grip 2 and before there was a XS Grip 2 i believe they came with XS Grip. You would have to know the release date of every model in every colour and the release date of the rubber XS Grip 2 and XS Edge, because they are much younger than XS Grip, which was used before all the other ones. I think XS Edge was developed for those edging on mini Crystals like granite, same timeframe with the Sportiva TC Pro shoes, specifically with Tommy Caldwell (TC stands for Tommy Caldwell). First year shoes with XS Grip 2 came out somebody has to point out please. At least it was before the Katana VCS womenÄS became lila. Because the colout before was silver (or greay) and there was already XS Grip 2 on them. Or maybe there were older grey models with XS Grip? I don't know, i havent seen one. And at that time i haven't started climbing, so I "wasn't there" to witness this myself ;)

@ole9348 4 года назад

Hey Mani, I had an interesting Idea. Is it possible, that a lower bodyweight leads to less injuries, because your muscles and tissue is less loaded? And if so, what is the advantage of higher bodyweight? High bodyweight leads to shorter life and to less climbing performance (with the same amount of muscles).

@philipppuchner1115 4 года назад

Is there a question? Nothing against you, but that's not an interesting idea, it is maybe more like captain obvious.

@mikafull 4 года назад

Mani, the Vapor is really not a beginner shoe. Just compare the heel with a real beginner shoe. An your model is updated twice now. And for me is the xs Grip2 rubber better that the edge, also when it's hot. And the python is xs Grip2

@isaacacosta9748 4 года назад

In my experience Stealth rubber has not been very durable

@Desorem 4 года назад

Poor Katanas ;(

@themurderofcoke Год назад

Dang, 90% of these shoes dont fit my feet :( Instincts are the only ones that dont hurt me.

@mj6582 2 года назад

"enclose", not disclose lol. Nice reviews

@Dread.Pirate.Roberts 2 года назад

He climbed all of those shoes.... he used to be very very small.

@mikemarcus7442 4 года назад

*en*closed heel 🙂

@lucyreed4452 2 года назад

No Evolvs???? Shamans are the best shoe on the planet

@SammyMakepeace 4 года назад

Waste of money?

@kockarthur7976 4 года назад

"comes in very handy" is not a standard phrase, and sounds weird. It's better to say "comes in handy", or "very much comes in handy", or "is very useful".