Just watched a video the other day on someone spinning a lot on a dyno. They lower tire pressure and rest taped the car down a little tighter the. Added more air to round out the tire. Didn’t spine. Hope this tip helps anyone looking for another way. Spinning isn’t winning guys lol
Hey man, this is your neighbor that stops by like once a year to check out the Fox and the ZR1. I wish I had known you've had this thing! Just sold my 2JZ Mk3 Supra, would have been cool to put it on the rollers and figure out some stuff with it. I'm super jealous of your toys.
@@8SecSleeper Ya, I use the brake on 90% of the cars I dyno. Being able to simulate a road test, lock the MPH or RPM at whatever I want, step tests, etc... That capability is worth as much as power and torque numbers as far as I'm concerned. There's a video on my channel where I dyno a Nova that makes 900+. With the road load simulation on a pull in high gear took about 6.5 seconds. Same pull with inertia only took about 2.5 seconds. Like I said, the brake is almost a 'must have' in my opinion.
Very interesting! I've got the question) How could you understand what load shoud be applied at certain speed? Is it math calculated or Dynojet gives special load curves for different vehicles? Thank you!
hi, thanks for the nice review , i would like to know if you did't bought the load Ver. is it gonna give you different power and torque range during the pull ? i am thinking of dyno jet but i couldn't pay for XLC as my budget is tight , do you think its still good option
The LC is nice for sure. You can buy the 224X now and add the load control later. For making power pulls, I don't think there is much difference. The dyno reports the same numbers on most everything regardless of whether I use the LC or not. The only time it's different is when the LC will load a turbo car more than just an inertia pull.
With the Dyno, eddy brake, shipping, having the pit dug and concrete poured, renting an extended reach fork lift, etc... It was a little over $40,000 USD.
