The stick shift stuff is hard on parts for sure. Not just the trans, but the drive shaft, rear end, axles, etc... I think a long travel clutch (often incorrectly called a slipper clutch - technically all clutches slip; so all clutches are technically a slipper clutch) would help transmission longevity quite a bit. It would be tough to definitively say a TKO would work, or that it wouldn't work. There's a bunch of other components that affect the reliability. Even though it's got a radiator, alternator, turn signals, horn, etc... we don't drive it much on the street. Not because it can't be street driven, but it seems like the only time we take it out is when it's going to a race. It doesn't have AC; here in the South East a lot of the time it would be pretty uncomfortable to commute, go to the grocery store, or run errands without AC, lol.
Thanks for the reply, this fox would be a blast on the street, but everything from Hondas to hellcats would be trying you and here in FL, street racing is a felony and pretty much died out about 20 years ago. You just don't see home built street cars anymore .
If there's no masking that needs to be done (the parts are off the motorcycle) it's usually $100-$200 per panel plus materials. I'd guess $500-$1000 to do the 5 parts. I'm outside Raleigh, NC - if your in that area and would like me to do the paint work, shoot me an email theundergg@gmail.com and we can work out the details.
Hey did you have to modify the aje crossmember any. I’m using Ls motor mounts with a aje k memeber and my th400 mount does not line up. It’s close but not perfect. Also did you have to cut down the bushings for it to fit?
I did not have to cut the bushings. The trans and cross member line up enough to get the bolts in if I lightly push the trans towards the drivers side. Alignment wasn't / isn’t perfect, but it’s not far enough off that I can’t put it together.
It's all stock location stuff. GT hatch springs with half a coil cut off, UPR uppers and lowers, UPR anti-roll bar, and some KYB shocks from a parts store.
@@UGGdyno i have a very similar simple setup on a stick shoft car. How do you feel about adding lower instant center brackets or a south side style lift bar?
I doubt I have the footage anymore, but maybe. Or I might have recorded it in time lapse, I’m not sure. Shoot me an email and I’ll get you what I’ve got. theundergg@gmail
Paint and paper hustle maverick is a f 150 engine out of a wrecked truck it runs fives with out trying with a pro charger on motor l seen a 85 coupe run low tens with a 6 speed so a good automatic transmission will run nines in the quarter mile on motor
I don't know that Courtney would describe it as, "Running 5's without even trying." Maybe he would, but I'd have to hear him say it. I checked out your channel, but there's no content. Got any videos or anything of your stuff?
My 85 coupe run 1070 130 mph on motor granny shifting 373 gear 26 inch et street 384 cubic inch 351 w l have been riding fast ever since the early 70 s my friend just sold A 302 coyote twin turbo 4000 pound street car run 520 135 in the eighth mile so the Ford power will kill a ls just like l said and me and my family and friends proved on a regular basis put your Chevy junk in your own car tired of seeing you guys screw up a awesome car with you all junk
Check out some of the other videos on my channel and you'll see I'm not loyal to any one brand or another. I like anything that goes fast or someone really works hard on. For reference, I help with the fastest nitrous 302 in the world: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jM1XDOvtP1k.html I did the LS deal in this car because it's what I could afford. I'd have much rather done a coyote or 302 based engine, just couldn't swing the cash. The last fox I did was WAY nicer than this car, it was Ford powered. It was nice enough to be a feature car on FoxCast Media and a few other places. I totaled it a few years ago and still haven't financially recovered... Which is why I had to go LS on this deal, lol. Check out the video on that car, most Ford guys really liked the build: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uxZvHyf8rHU.html
That's sad you made a stallion a jackass put a coyote in it and I promise you it will run over that ls that's why it is a Ford not a Chevy no matter what you do to it still a Ford
Ford Mustang is just the vessel Chevy is the power plant. Don't knock on someone else's car because u dont have one! LS is a tried and trued platform and finding performance parts or replacements are plentiful! If you dont like what hes got dont watch plain and simple but dont sit here and be a hater! Fun fact for you......almost all NHRA funny car and top fuel car engines are based off a modified HEMI platform regardless of make or model!! Proud of him for running what works for him reliably and not what some sideline quarterbacks think he should run.
@jimmymccormick142 No argument from me, a Coyote with similar boost / weight would demolish this car. An 8.2 or Windsor motor with similar boost would probably make more power and go faster too. The Ford stuff goes fast, I just couldn't afford it this time around. Check out some of the other videos on my channel and you'll see I'm not loyal to any one brand or another. I like anything that goes fast or someone really works hard on. For reference, I help with the fastest nitrous 302 in the world: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jM1XDOvtP1k.html I did the LS deal in this car because it's what I could afford. I'd have much rather done a coyote or 302 based engine, just couldn't swing the cash. The last fox I did was WAY nicer than this car, it was Ford powered. It was nice enough to be a feature car on FoxCast Media and a few other places. I totaled it a few years ago and still haven't financially recovered... Which is why I had to go LS on this deal, lol. Check out the video on that car, most Ford guys really liked the build: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uxZvHyf8rHU.html
It's Chevrolet powered, but only because that's what I could afford. The Ford stuff usually goes faster / makes more power with the same mods / boost. The Ford stuff is just more expensive than the LS right now. If you wanna sponsor me a Ford power plant, I'll happily change it over!
That bed is gonna have sooooo many 80 grit sand marks all over it and look terrible. You shouldn’t jump from 80 grit to 400. 400 grit won’t even come close to sanding out the 80 grit gouge marks. 36/80 for your body filler work and final sand that with 120 before priming. Once you’re in priming stage you should only need to block with 180. Then smooth that out with 320 on a DA with an interface pad. By this time all 80 grit 120 grit and 180 grit marks are gone. Spray your final coats of primer. Then you can use the 400 grit 800 grit papers for your final sanding before sealer /base/ clear. This kid was close but no cigar.
You're right to an extent. You or I could see the sanding scratches in the finished product, but people without body shop or paint correction experience won't. Is there a way to get a better result? Absolutely. There always is. I've never done a paint job where there wasn't "something" I wasn't happy with. The whole thing is always a compromise. This was 10 years (or so) ago; with a decade more experience there are things I'd do differently, but the sanding process isn't one of them. If you didn't watch the rest of the series; check out the rest. After you see the last video and the finished truck, let me know what you think.
This is an amazing video brother! Thank you so very much for taking the time to do this educational and extremely helpful video greatly appreciate you God bless you
It might be in one of the older videos, I can't remember, lol. Specs are: Gen 4 aluminum block 5.3L - stock bore Summit forged crank, rods, and pistons (with upgraded wrist pins) - stock bore and stock stroke TF205 heads Johnson short travel link bar lifters Cam is 229/241, .603/.613, 113+4 LSA Cometic head gaskets LS1 intake - I had two piece Dorman LS6 style intake on it, but it blew apart at 30 PSI of boost, lol. A buddy had the LS1 intake laying around and gave it to me. I'll eventually upgrade to something else. Twin Borg Warner S369's from FIS - They are the TDI line, and have Precision turbine housings in a .96 AR. 10.5 inch TCI street fighter converter TH400 125 HP dry nitrous Ford 8.8 with 2.73 rear gear 35 spline Strange axles and spool, 5/8 wheel studs 17x9 Cobra replicas all around 305-45-17 ET street R radials
I have fallen in love with Southern Polyurethanes products. I use their epoxy primer, high build primer, and universal clear on almost everything now. For paint I normally use PPG stuff. PPG makes a budget line of paint called Omni, a midgrade line of paint called Omni Plus, and their premium line is called Deltron. I've used all three with no complaints. IMO, Deltron is worth it if you can afford it. Depending on where you are, the PPG Omni line might be called Shop Line. It's the same stuff, just called something different. I prefer to use Marson Platinum body filler. If I can't use that, I just use 3M Bondo brand. I prefer both of those over the Rage stuff.
@@UGGdyno Sorry to bother you but is it that you can use less coats on the Deltron that makes you prefer it? Also I noticed that when you found the new cracks in the old body filller you sanded but left on some of old primer filler and putty.and primer on . Don't you worry about the new filler cracking?Which filler did you use? Which 2k smoothing putty do you use? I am redoing 4 of my trucks and want to do it right the first time.Thanks so much again!!
@@6364Chevyguy The Deltron covers a lot better. It also is less likely to zebra stripe or leopard print if you are spraying a paint with metallic in it. If you use other PPG products with it, PPG will warranty the job for 10 years or so - the warranty is good at any shop that uses PPG stuff. I didn't rewatch the video, so I'm going to guess at the next few questions: I would have sanded out all the old cracks. Once I got to where the old stuff wasn't cracked anymore, I'd have stopped. I'm not worried about the new filler cracking. It's possible I guess, but I've never had 3M Bondo or Marson Platinum crack before. I don't remember exactly what filler I used. It was either Marson Platinum or 3M Bondo. I don't use a 2K smoothing putty anymore, but back then I would have used Dolphin Glaze as the smoothing putty. Nowadays, I just finish the body work out with Marson Platinum or 3M Bondo. I don't get pinholes much anymore, I guess after years of using the filler I've learned how to do it without creating pinholes. There's another channel on YT I used to watch, DIY auto school is the name. I learned a ton from that guy. I think he mixes some glazing / smoothing putty in with his filler to make it smoother. Poke around on his channel and you should be able to learn quite a lot.
Is there any reason you don't use flat line air sanders? I would save a lot of wear and tear on your hands and arms.Great videos. Would you tell us the brands and types of fillers and primers and paint you are using ? That would be very helpful. The info on the polyester filler and the 1k putty was great . Thank you for your time in doing these informative videos.
I didn't have a straight line sander when I did this video. About a year after this video I bought one. This was quite awhile ago, I don't remember exactly what all I used product wise. Probably some 3M Bondo and some dolphin glaze. Primer was 3M Omni brand, paint was also Omni, or maybe Omni plus. I think the clear was Omni on the bed, and Nason on the cab.
Thanks man! I have a video of it on the dyno that I'm editing together now. That should be up next week sometime. Then there's a video of a converter swap. Then another video of back on the dyno. What do you think it made on 28 PSi boost and 14 degrees timing?
Hopefully pretty soon. Galot opens the first weekend in March, but I might try to hit a test and tune somewhere before then. I’ll post a video about it whenever / wherever it happens. Thanks for watching!
Nothing out of the ordinary tune wise. Just followed the recipe on turbobuick.com. It seems like they live a little longer if you run more boost and less timing as opposed to more timing with less boost. Other than that, I don't have any real insight / tips. Good luck!
