@@Jake-ee4wk well I’ve never entered the main part of the hospital I was born in but I did enter the property but it’s a separate building from where I was born so that’s a easy riddle I guess
Hey Vince. Awesome follow up, I would say that the PCH hitting 60⁰C is normal. If you look up the specs you'll likely find the operating temperature wlll be around -5⁰C to +105⁰C On another note, maybe solder the wires internally and remove the port? You could get a blank to cover up that port. Side side note. I would say look into the chipset. Not just the actual chipset IC but drivers also. An awful lot of usb-related issues are caused by the chipset :)
That's what I was thinking too, love your videos as well btw! I figured he could probably leave the port in place and it may even still be usable since hubs can run off a single port, 2 devices should do the same, especially if its something of low power.
50-60c isn't really that bad. It's toasty, it's not optimal, but it's definitely where a lot of chipsets and other components tend to sit. I'd worry once it hits above 75-80 :)
@@flippy9133 laser on reflective surface? That's a whole other can of worms :) You can work around it with tape but then you have other things scewing the reading
It's likely this PC has more than one USB controller (very common), with one dedicated to the internally wired USB components such as the touch screen, camera and bluetooth modules, and it is that one which has failed or is shorted somewhere. Start by check Device Manager under Universal Serial Bus Controllers, are any of them showing as disabled etc?. Have you checked the Event Logs, that may give a clue if something has failed to start or is faulty too.
Great to see it mostly all working. The usb fix completely lost me with wires being soldered,to what and what for is where it lost me. But I will continue to watch th3 video over a few times till I grasp it. Cheers again.
PCH controls the USB port and IO(like WIFI, pcie, etc) Some PCH do run hot, Thanks for the mention, there are some ESD diodes on the data pins and coils, great video 👍👍👍👍👍
it also controlls sata ports and i found out if there is intense sata activity like downloading stuff that pch gets hella hot on my lenovo laptop otherwise it is just a bit warm
60 degrees C is a pretty normal temperature for a PCH. They have a lot of very high speed signals going into and out of them, so it's pretty common for them to get that sort of heat.
you don't want the camera working anyway.... The inly truthful thing that ever came out of the former head of the FBI's mouth was when he said to keep your computer's camera covered...
Well done Vince & PN ... if you are concerned about the temperature of that controller have a look at the power consumption in use and while in sleep and see if it aligns with the dell machine specs.
I've seen machines where the PCH would sit at around 80C, sometimes almost 90C in normal usage, so I think your temperatures on it are normal. Sometimes you can see the temperature of the PCH in a program called HWinfo, which is a free tool for Windows, which can shows data from the sensors. If not, you can check the BIOS, some machines will show temps there too.
Hi Vince! Many times, wifi and Bluetooth stop working if something on the "USB part" drowning a lot of voltage/current (mostly on the new generation of laptops). I don't know what else can I say to help you fixing it beyond that and maybe already knowing it but I just want to inform you. I wish you the best and I am waiting for a video where you have made it fully functional!😉 (Be gentle with my English, I'm from Greece😅)
Hi Justin, in the first attempted fix I did swap it over with one from a laptop and it still didn't work (I didn't film it). I could try again though as maybe I didn't install the correct drivers before 👍👍👍
I would first check the caps around the controller then I might consider a gentle reflow of the chip. Heat cycles like that can cause cracks in the solder balls underneath the chip. May be a temporary repair but at least you would know the cause and could work on cooling options. Just my thoughts. Good luck.
For unknown to me reason my laptop (Asus G750JZ) started to turn off when i close the lid or press sleep button. It was a BIOS problem - hidden power parameters that is not available by manufacturer somehow is changed to wrong settings that causing laptop to to turn off instead of sleep. To fix that i did forced bios re-flash using its bios flash software (Winflash) and problem is gone. Maybe you should try to re-flash your Dell Inspiron 5475.
I've an HP touchsmart and the PCH on mine gets hot seems to be normal mine runs at between 40-50 read that when they get to 70-80 you will start having issues
Hi Vince. I wouldn't mind at all you not replying all the comments as long as you're pushing out awesome and cheerful videos as this one. Fortunately, it has been quiet educational for me since I've got one that one of my mates gave me to figure out what the issue is. For the longest time I figured it was just the driver issues which is pretty much common for these touch screen capable displays but boy was I wrong... All in all, love your videos and I can't wait for the next one. Stay safe as always. Cheers!
I suppose you can check the voltage on both USB data pin, usually it read above 1volt for a good USB data pin. Some manufacturer use USB mark or USB hub chip, in order to increase usb port for their products. You might want to check that.
Can you do a revisit video on this again because I know what is wrong.it is that the driver or the computer does not recognize the controller hub so the touch screen and the bluetooth and the camera does not work all you need to do is to update the unknown device in device manager.
It is possible that one of the Serial Bridge Controller IC is damaged, surely there is a touch and bluetooth signal hub, for that reason there is no Data + and Data -. If it were a laptop I imagine that Data + and Data - would go straight to the PCH with only protections like coils, capacitors and diodes (this is of course a bastard mix between a PC and a Laptop). I would review the Data + and Data - path to the hub IC, it wouldn't be too complex to replace as long as it doesn't go straight to the PCH or it's not one of those quirky all-in-one chips.
Doing that could induce an user to insert something in the usb port while it can't be used. If also the camera has usb connection I suggest to find the tinyest usb hub on the market and connect internally touch screen, camera and bt dongle sneaking out the hub cable.
@@hullebikerfishing Someone (like me) may not give a sh*t about the touchscreen on a big screen like this. IMO better to leave the user the option to choose what to do with the usb port.
Hey Vince, great fix as always. I would just like to tell you that the chipset/PCH temperature is normal and some of them tend to run hot. For the touchscreen connector, try following the data pin traces to the filters. To my experience, USB connections have filters similar to the HDMI filters you commonly find on Playstations, Nintendo switches and basically anywhere that requires it (the size might vary but those filters are there. Since the back panel ports are working, I am fairly sure in your case, the PCH is good and it is likely that the filters are blown. Same goes for the inbuilt Bluetooth USB connection although the filters for that might be tricky to find. All the best.
The platform controller (aka 'the chipset', northbridge, southbridge) is an incredibly high speed processor which manages all sorts of things on the motherboard, and does a lot of talking directly to the CPU. It manages things such as the USB controllers as you've said, but also all the PCIe interfaces (where graphics cards and the like go), SATA/IDE controllers (for hard drives/ssds), Networking controllers (WiFi/Ethernet (although these days WiFi is commonly a separate pcie device)), keyboard/mouse interfaces (common on laptops which have these built in), audio controllers, and all sorts of things that the motherboard has. They're essentially an entire processor in themselves haha they exist because CPUs are generic, they can be used in a huge variety of different motherboards, and each motherboard has different features, like one may have 8xPCIe and High Speed SATA, while an other motherboard has 16xPCIe, a fingerprint reader and IDE controllers instead of SATA. Rather than having to cater for all these possibilities within the already complicated CPU, each motherboard has a chipset/platform controller which will manage all these parts of the motherboard, and provide a generic friendly interface for any CPU to understand. Being essentially a separate CPU in itself, they are highly complex processor dies, which do get quite hot in operation, and aren't very likely to fail unless overheated. When they do fail however, it's 99.999% likely that the whole chipset will fail with it, rather than something like the USB going while SATA still works. If there was a fault with the chip set, the whole computer wouldn't boot. This goes the same for the main CPU, if it's working enough that you can see a bios message or it boots windows, then you can be sure the whole CPU is working, you don't need to worry about a pin not being connected or something. The likel fault in this instance is there is a separate USB controller on this motherboard which is exclusive for managing internal USB devices, such as the camera, touchscreen, etc. This is where I predict the fault lies. One of the reasons they use a separate USB controller for things like internal devices and external devices (ie USB ports) is to save costs, the internal USB controller can be a simple one which doesn't need to worry about devices being unplugged or plugged in during operation like external USB ports have to deal with, and is used to only giving a certain amperage rather than having to vary depending on each USB devices asked for power etc. This USB controller has likely gone pop, while the other USB controllers still work. (Ie the one that manages the port on the back you used for the touchscreen)
One thing that may be interesting to test would be to solder a USB port to that internal connector which doesn't seem to be working, so you can see if a USB thumb drive works on it, or something simple like a USB mouse. Could then maybe plug a phone in to see if it charges it, maybe it's giving 5V without a load, but when something puts a load on the port, the voltage just cuts off and it stops working, indicating perhaps the controller chip is fine and perhaps a capacitor or something is not working right
Great work. Thanks for releasing an update. Internet help from people is an amazing resource. If you don't want to fix that hot chip I'd at least move the battery away via wires and maybe stick another heatsink to the chip.
If you want to hide the touch cable and don't want to repair the board or replace it, you could buy an M.2 to USB card and plug the cable in that. Because Bluetooth runs over USB, you could try to find the USB pins on the mPCIe slot and hook it up to that same controller card. But you should unsolder the USB pins from the board, otherwise it could probably fry the whole PCH when it's USB lines do work again...
I have one of these that I got for cheap with the exact same problem. I wish I knew what component was faulty on the motherboard so I could have a go at replacing it as long as it doesn't involve re-balling the PCH.
Generally consumer electronics should run below 70C so I'm guessing that hot chip is operating normally. Note the gold coloured rectangle of to the right of that hot chip - that's a fuse (although normally it kills power not data)... You could try wiring a USB device to that port - a mouse or a keyboard, that'll prove out the port.
A great last resort idea would be possibility desoldering that one usb port internally, hooking up a usb hub and then connecting the touch and that usb port with the usb hub. Looks like there is space for a little board like that
Thanks. I was thinking exactly the same thing as there is the space. It could even be powered from the faulty USB internal port where the original touch cable was 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice! I was also convinced that it was a software issue (I recommended trying Win7/8). Enough all-in-one fixes will steer you down those roads, haha. Still a nice result and glad others had the idea!
Both USB controllers are working. 2 and 3.0. Pause at 5:58, bluetooth dongle on usb 2.0, and touch on usb SS/3.0. It must be a problem on ONLY that internal port. As for bluetooth, check for a BIOS upgrade. As for the webcam, check your privacy settings.
dud watch both video carefully and then talk there is a known issue with these kind of dell aio pcs where all fail in the same exact manner no cam no bluetooth and no touch too it is a design fault
I dont think those controller hubs are supposed to get that hot, so probably there has to be a short on the chip or somewhere near it. If you do end up fixing it and keeping it, i would highly suggest you grab a second hand 1st gen Ryzen processor, because it should have the same socket.
That's nearly as hot as my 1650 gpu in my laptop at full load and unless the Ryzen cpu has video on board it wouldn't work and some report it was never tested with any Ryzen cpu's it was always planned as a low cost Axx series board I doubt its also got the correct chipset for alot of Ryzen cpu's. There are people who have used Ryzens though with various problems like externally rigging up gpu's etc
maybe you should attempt to put a beefier heatsync on the red hot controller chip to reduce any further damage being made to the board still I think it's irresponsible of them to only put a plate of metal and not a proper finned heatsync, as well as putting it next to a heat sensitive component (the battery)
From looking at the form factor of the mainboard it seems it's designed more for a notebook computer than a desktop one, which isn't at all surprising. They're smaller and more compact. However, it does mean they're a lot less modular and fault finding is down to component rather than part level. Your remedy works as you're by-passing the onboard connections and using the external sockets. If it's good enough, then ok. Whether the controller chip for the onboard devices being as warm as it is has anything to do with the fault is debatable. It already has a heatsink on it, as it is, so it's meant to get, 'warm.' The only way to know for sure would be to get a working model of the same machine and see if that chip gets as warm. But I know that's not something that's likely to happen any time soon. Still, you got it working which is the main thing.
You're fine. We don't need or expect you to respond to ALL the comments. The comment section is just another part of the experience. We're fine down here.
USB is handled by the Chipset. PCH chip. Those chips don't get that warm, you will probably notice that the other USB ports will stop working. On older hardware such as G41 and older those chips got very hot.
I remember the DIY PERKS channel on youtube using a USB Wire To a webcam so to use it as a security camera. He said it used USB Port Protocol or so. Maybe the extra cables from the old webcam are for Microphone & WindowsHello iR-Camera or Light sensor. I'm not fully sure about issues like these. But defo worth a look into the webcam issue from other repair websites of other brands. Hope u can get it fixed
Have you thought about just soldering the wires inside on the back side of the USB port, like on the pins? That way, there's no cable sticking out at all, and you may even be able to still use the actual port if needed (not sure if that's possible or not but I know hubs work off of one single port, who knows lol)
May be imagination, but that wifi/bt card looked slightly crooked. May be worth a reseat, but beware the antennae wires; the connectors are delicate. Would actually be tempted to leave the wifi/bt card out and see if the touch port starts working. Might also be tempted to go to a load system defaults incase someone turned off the touchscreen/bluetooth.
starting off on win 98 many years ago it does genuinely shock me how compact and hot components can happily run at now, and yes around 60 is very average especially for anything compact like all in one or laptop, the heatsink plate is just doing its job and with the back on air will be being circulated, in unique heavy use circumstances if it gets 'to hot' it will be throttled until it cools, nice job on the touchscreen it looked really tidy when back together
While the PCH is designed to be able to run hot, it doesn't mean you should allow it to run hot. BGA chips which run smokin' hot have a much higher chance of failure due to baking the solder and the temperature swings when powering the machine on and off. I'd replace that garbage excuse for a heatsink that probably does more harm than good because it's just a flat piece of aluminum. Put a heatsink with fins on it oriented up and down so convection can happen, or put a fan on it.
get away DELL not owning u to there shoddy products ....no never ........heres me with a XPS 8940 and cant let my CPU boost because it over heats ! let alone there shite proprietary PSU's
A lot of computers, especially laptops and all-in-ones, have multiple USB controllers. The touch digitizer, webcam, and possibly bluetooth module (if not integrated with the wifi card) are probably on the system controller's USB lanes in order to save IO bandwidth for the USB ports. It very likely is the ESC/PCH that's the problem. 40° is understandable on some, but NOT nearly 60°! Footnote: I call it an Embedded System Controller (ESC), you call it a Platform Controller Hub (PCH). Both are acceptable, just like motherboard and system board. Po-tay-toe, po-tah-toe.
Wouldn't the voltage sag if it was a short, yet you measured 5V, ie, the power line is probably not shorted. And I wonder if a data line short would load that chip that much, ie, it doesn't need high power. Keep at it.
Thanks Emma, I could but someone could accidentally plug something into the same port, t would need to be blanked off. This way, although it doesn't look as good, means the port can still be used if you didn't want the touchscreen. Maybe a little internal USB hub would be the answer 👍
You can check online for the specs of the pch and the normal and maximum temperature ... intel for example... just type the name of the chipset or the pch and you can read about it
I would wire in a usb drive or another usb device onto that connector on motherboard where touch was and see if it picks it up, if it does it will be drivers, if not it would be the usb controller. the controllers on motherboard are to spec usually to about 90c, so i doubt they are too hot. Windows 10 does updates automatically etc. and had it a few times where reinstalling USB controller driver fixes issues with say device connected to one USB not working, but it works connected to a different USB port, which this seems to be, as there is no difference between the internal and external USB connectors other than the connector.
This smells like the AMD chipset driver. But you have to do a clean install of windows first. Then install the AMD chipset driver, then Reboot. The chipset driver often unlocks the motherboard USB port pathways so Windows can see them.
it almost looks like there should be small 2x2 (or smth like that size) fan on that HS and the plug you think is for touchscreen is actually for the fan (i know it's not normal plug for fan but i've seen few with this socket) :D Kidding, but it would be a blast if there was another plug where you should put the touchscreen cable and those guys that were looking at it plugged it at wrong spot (and also did not place the small fan back). I know it's highly unlikely, but still possible :) And if it's not, well... why not use the 5V the port is providing and use it for small fan like i just described? Would at least helped with the heat (and ease you mind not worrying about it).
That's great news Vince. So now -all of these issues are pointing to Dell and poor engineering design . It's a real shame that Dell has gone down hill is it's ability to held accountable for issues such as this - Overheating chips burning out - and here I thought its was microsoft being a driver issue which still is a part of the problem but doesn't seem to apply to this model. One thing I did learn from laptops is the Bluetooth is part of the WiFi board. unless it's soldered on the main board. Wayda go there Dude!!! Thank you for your persistence
I tried unplugging and plugging back in the touch cable while the PC was on and it still wasn't recognized, unlike the camera. In this instance I don't think it was driver related at all as it fired up straight away when attached to USB 👍👍👍
About the bios battery, my one died quite early I think after about a year of owning it. I think the heat actually caused the battery to die, I never noticed that the IC above it was so hot
On Dell community forums I just came across the thread that says this had a "known issue" search that phrase on the forum here: www.dell.com/community/Inspiron-Desktops/Inspiron-24-5475-AIO-Touchscreen-IR-not-working/td-p/6092733
And yes the issues must be related, I will try to look at the name of this mystery chip and see if I can find any information on what it's purpose is. It must be some kind of serial IC which lets the CPU talk to the peripherals
Can you tell me if you hear a slight buzzing sound from the speakers when the pc turns on from full shut down? Maybe I caused some damage back when I was playing around with it or could also be due to the PCH
The PCH seems to be an "AMD K5 IMC" (Northbridge) or rather “AMD B350” chipset, that is what CPU-Z says, I had a brief search of “AMD b350 usb fault and im getting lots of similar issues with USB not working at all. Do have a look but I am hoping that there is some motherboard fault which can be found, next thing to do would be to trace the path of the data pins on the touch connector and test the components, perhaps a filter has blown or something.
You should google Win 10 touch keyboard doesn't show. Lots of ideas on how you get the keyboard to show automatically when you are in a text field. Don't want to push that button every time.
PCH's are usually rated for around 110c and for that reason it's a terrible location for that bios/uefi battery. Maybe the mod here could be to relocate the CR2032 as they are only rated to 60c (laptop coin battery could buy you an inch or 2 with the added wires and a few dollops of solder). If you have any old mobo's lying around the PCH heatsinks on those are usually a little beefier (easy swap?). If you are really concerned about the battery going kaboom, just remove it. A power loss would be the only inconvenience as the clock will forget the time. Unless you have some non default bios/uefi setting that requires the battery to remember the setting it's no real biggie to not have the coin battery.
good work around, maybe you could have just soldered the wires to the usb pads on the board and not bothered with the usb cable............. but whatever works !
Hey! I wonder with the usb connection you made with the touch screen, can you connect that to a laptop and plug in a hdmi in, and use extended monitor and touch feature? I’m trying to figure out how to turn my bricked all in one touchscreen to work as a extended monitor with touch feature with my laptop.
