Revive your old dead 18 volt Dewalt battery trick. Don't spend your money on a new battery when you can revive your old batteries. This trick works on about 90% of the batteries I've tested.
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@@adelhamache1397 Bubba, this is all bullshit!! You don't bring batteries back to life! Next, all of you doing this are going to tell me that they are still going strong for months and months afterwards... LMAO!!
Its doubtful that any of the batteries you supposedly restored will maintain a charge when used normally and will probably drain while just sitting. Nicads are the worst and DeWalt discontinued them and CA and NY don't allow them because they're highly toxic. I just now bought 2 new NIMH 4.5 ah aftermarket batteries off ebay to replace 2 NICAD's in the DC-970 drill driver. The original 3.2 ah units were crap to start with.
This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries batery.repair and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!
Protip for those whose only two 18V batteries were BOTH dead after long storage: get two 9 volt batteries (still $5 for the pair at Wally world). Strip some wires to run a loop around the positive (male) terminal of one and negative (female) terminal of the other, then cover those terminals with some gorilla/electrical/etc tape to keep the loops in place). Then connect the two batteries in series (for 18V) by plugging them into each other, and use the leads charge the DeWalt batteries for 60 seconds. The positive terminal on the Dewalts is the one closer to the center of the battery. I had a portable drill tire hole patch that I couldn't do all day because neither battery would charge (quick flashing). I ultimately just carried the tire/wheel up to my apartment to use a corded drlll. Two 9V in series solved my problem, and as I literally own nothing else that runs on 9V batteries, those 9Vs are both going into the drill + charger's case just in case this ever happens again. I can accept batteries for tools only have ~500 use cycles, I can't accept that I only got 4-5 use cycles out of them in 10 years. And replacements for discontinued batteries/tools are just ridiculously overpriced.
Thank you Tim. I've always thought there was something other that could be done than throwing the battery away !! You're an angel. God bless !! Sincerely ............................ Steph
I have two 18V Dewalt batteries that wouldn't take a charge and would flash "replace pack" on the charger. I took my two good batteries, made sure they were fully charged, and did this process. I went ahead and connected everything up with connectors on the wire ends except for the last connection. Both batteries started at around 2.4 V. It's amazing in just a few cycles how quickly they get up to 14+ V. Brought both batteries to just over 20V and then put them on the charger. When I checked back in 30 minutes, the charger indicated full charge. When I took them off the charger and put them in a tool, they worked fine. I can't say if they will last as long or not, but it's better than they were.
My case is like this: one battery is 19.0 V dc. The other is roughly (after charge) only 9.2 V dc. I have a 24 V dc power source from another equipment; in theory (and I have not tried it yet), it means I can 'prop' its voltage up to close to nominal 20 V dc by "touch-and-go" its tips, and then, charge it up with the Charger. The electrical 'pressure' will be there, but not its 'current' or 'electrical size'. I have to try it; I have no money to spend in another battery!! Damn DeWalt! I get it; thanks a lot.
DON'T try to revive a lithium battery this way; you might be setting off a firebomb instead. Lithium battery chargers are programmed to reject batteries that have been discharged below 3.2 V/cell because of a risk of overheating If you've run a lithium battery down too far and the charger rejects it, you can try to slow charge it to 3.2 V per cell, then try putting it back on the standard charger. To slow charge, you need a power supply that can put out at least 3.2 Volts times the number of cells in the battery, but not more than 4.2 Volts times that number. For an 18 V lithium pack, that is 5 cells (3.6 V nominal x 5 = 18 V), so the range is 16 V to 20 V. Suppose you have discharged your battery to 14 Volts and it gets rejected by the charger. For a typical power tool battery, a safe slow charge rate may be about 100 mA, so (20V - 14V)/ 0.100A = 60 Ohms. 6 V * 0.1 A = 0.6 W, so you would need a 60 Ohm, 1 Watt resistor between the power supply and the battery. This current will decrease as the battery charges, so you can recalculate the resistor and replace with a smaller one to speed things up. Alternatively, you can use a 12 V incandescent instrument panel lamp instead (two in series if the difference between nominal voltage and measured voltage is more than 12 V), but monitor the battery very closely for hot spots or general overheating, especially during the first 20 minutes. Keep checking the battery voltage at least once an hour. If it stops increasing before it gets above 16.8 Volts, the battery may not be salvageable..
I have changed my 18 volt battery to the lithium upgraded 18 volt battery’s and they work much better than the battery’s that comes with the drill. You do have to change the changer but I found a deal on Amazon where you got a charger and battery for a good price.
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Funny story. I installed Satellite TV and internet when I was a kid. This was about 12-13 years ago I reckon. Well I got stuck at a job with a dead battery on my truck. I had 0 cell phone service and was at a guys deer camp in the middle of nowhere in South Arkansas. Nobody was at the deer camp! I had no knowledge of electrical at that time. I got to thinking and decided maybe I could start my truck with a Dewalt battery. I rigged 2 REALLY short pieces of 12awg solid copper ground wire I had to the battery posts. Made some HUGE sparks, because I no idea what I was doing. Lol. But yeah, as you know, it actually worked! Got me home that night. Anyhow, it was the best feeling in the world when that truck started up!! Haha
I was lucky to have thought about researching choices just before I shell out thousands of dollars for batteries. Fortunately I discovered this battery reconditioning program t.co/YpdloYO92F Thanks to it, Now I have got old but functioning batteries with no expense of getting new ones!
Thanks for the video and sharing this technique...It helps but is likely short lived and this doesn’t work all the time. Might be best to start converting to 20 volt system and use a DeWalt 18-20 volt battery adapter. Then you don’t have to buy new tools. Just my thoughts
I have two working dewalt 18 volt batteries like the ones in ur video. I also have two 12 dewalt batteries that their charger has stopped charging. My question is, can I wire together the 18 volt batteries like you’ve done, and the use them to get the 12 volt batteries to revive?
I've been using Dewalt 18v drill driver, impact driver, sawzall, and grinder most of my adult life. Bought Ridgid 18v drill driver impact driver. Both are heavy, but like the Ridgid free Batt replacement. Last week l used a friend's Dewalt 20v brushless drill driver and impact driver. Wow! What a difference, light and powerful, also used the compound mitre saw. Cut easy and with less effort. I'm sold! Buying Dewalt 20v combos drill driver, impact driver, hammer drill, sander and grinder. Possible compound mitre saw. I also have Milwaukee drill driver and impact driver, light stays on on both most of the time. I also use Craftsman 19.2v combos, Sawzall, drill driver, impact driver, rotary skillsaw, compound mitre saw and stapler/brad nailer. I really like the Dewalt 20v brushless. 👍👏
What? I also have a couple cases of useless Dewalt tools that need batteries and have since replaced the Arsenal to Rigid. I am unaware of the replacement for life policy. that is good to know. Haven't had an issue yet, and I've used the crap out of them for years. Will need to look into this. Thanks!
If anyone has a DeWalt DW9116 charger and a digital multimeter take your leads from the tester and insert them into the charger directly on the terminals and please let me know what the max voltage output is. I cant get DeWalt customer support to support. They give as much support as a pair of boxer shorts.
Hi Tim, instead of buying new 18V dewalt batteries to restore the old dead ones, can I just series 3 new working 12V car batteries and still do the trick?
www.drillbattery.com.au has a large selection of cordless drill batteries from Bosch Batteries, Dewalt drill batteries, Makita tool battery, Milwaukee battery, Black & Decker batteries, Ryobi drill battery, Paslode battery, Dyson batteries power tool manufacturers.
Thanks. It doesn't say if they deliver to the East Coast of the US, and if they did, it would be a bit much. Glad to support Australians but the shipping is a killer.
I use to zap the nickel metal hydride batteries on each dead cell taking the battery apart. The problem is that it doesn't last long. The best way is to buy all new sub-C cells and solder them all together to make the cells into a battery. eBay is a good source, but most of them do not have true Amp Ratings. False advertising.
Your tip works to fool the charger into charging a dead battery but you still have at least one dead NiMH 1.2V cell inside that battery. If you have two of those of dead batteries of the same AH rating, then why not open them up and make one good battery with the good cells remaining? Each on of those 18V batteries contains 15 1.2V NiMH cells inside.
The weak older cells are not going to live well with newer cells in the pack. If you run the pack down too far, the weak cells go to zero volts, then start to reverse charge off of the other cells. This creates the shorts that killed the dead cells. The best thing is to replace all cells with a set of new ones from the same lot. The technique demonstrated here burns out the internal shorts in the cells. However, the separator inside is damaged by the short, so the cell will have low capacity and is very susceptible to shorting out again. It's a good trick when you need a battery right now, but don't trust the battery for prolonged use. DON'T use this technique on lithium batteries! Fire or explosion might be the result.
DO NOT OVER VOLTAGE A LION BATTERY. The Lion batteries if over or under voltage can over heat and get very hot. What this channel is using is nickel metal hydride battery, which is older technology.
Does it have to be to of the same batteries or just something with more volt's? For example If i have 2 12v batteries in series, would that work on an 18v or a 7.2v? Thanks
@@delcitydummies Thanks, i tried it anyway today... think it worked but one of the 7.2 is shot... not coming back, the other seems to have revived but not sure how much that has. the 18v seemed to have gained some good life... thanks again
It only works 1-3 times on a particular cell. The internal separator membrane is damaged and worn out, so it's likely to short again, and will have reduced capacity in any case.
Battery that is depleted has too low voltage and charger won't recognise because of protection features. Directly jumping a little voltage into the dead battery gets around that. This won't help with charge memory tho
It doesn’t work all the time. The main fault is caused by one or two individual cells. So I’ve decided to zap each cell. Again, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. Tried it on DeWalt, Elu and Makita battery packs.
When I check my bad battery that causes the charger to quick flash, it has 20 volts, the same as my good battery. The bad battery does not power the drill at all, the good one does. Bother have the same voltage measured separately. I don't have a 3rd battery to try this trick. Any suggestions?
Yeah, but actual stored electro-chemical energy is still diminished. Voltage is nothing when the storage capacity will not last like a new battery pack.
Ok, so now for the facts, yes this does work, but you will get varying results, if the cells are to far gone it won’t hold the charge or be as good as it was new, if your battery has been left uncharged for to long or stood unused for a while it might just be a memory issue and this will reset it and the battery “may” be as good as new after, it’s worth a try, but be careful, little touches at a time, if you have a lower voltage battery you can do the same with just one higher voltage battery but don’t take beyond its capacity ie don’t take a 12v battery beyond 12.5v you need a meter to do this successfully without risk, be warned get it wrong and your battery could in theory explode. Cheap batteries from China are poor quality and a waste of money, I understand manufacturers are all looking at exchange battery projects to reduce the cost and carbon footprint to replace them but this could still be years away!
Just buy the Adapter to use the new Lithium ion batteries with the old dewalt tools dont waste your time with these old batteries they suck compared to the new ones
You know, it helps to direct people to the right source and part. If you bought one that works, and eliminates wasted time and money, it's important to share and be clear. Looks like "DEWALT 18v to 20v Adapter - Bare (DCA1820)" on Amazon.
The adaptor, a new battery, and the charger will add up. I've found I can get replacement NiMH battery packs to replace NiCd on my older drill, which the existing charger will handle. For what I do, that could be the best deal. If the tool has been used hard, a complete replacement might be the best. And maybe an adaptor to support the older tools.
So why can't you just use a car battery charger with a jumper start for this? It will jump my truck when it's 20 below o. Why do I need 2 batteries to fix 1 ? Not Bashing you, I'm just asking. Thank you.
Here's the real deal on the "reviving the old battery" trick. Yes, you can get the battery to charge once you jump it with a bit of current. But, if the battery is more than 5 years old, it won't hold a charge for more than a day. It will work when it first comes off the charger, but it won't work the next day.
Has this happened to you? I had these old batteries stored in my garage and my wife's junk drawer and I thought they were garbage. But my neighbor told me about this new battery reconditioning system and to my surprise, I was able to make them work again. Not just for my car batteries but also my AA, AAA, C, and D batteries, my drill and my laptop battery. Don't take my word for it, go ahead and try it yourself! *efficial. xyz*
