thank you my brother over the ocean for posting this video im just a one man band trying to get my bike finish your video showed me exactly what i needed to know it was like you where there in spirit john in the uk
I've had a 78 triumph for about three months, been a couple decades since I worked on a Triumph, and it was good to see you do the wiring harness. I've had a 64 Tiger, and this one, never had to chase the wiring, I'm getting ready to do it, probably. It was rewired not so long ago, but not completely replaced, lots of connectors and at least one electrical problem, quit running. Thanks, good show on where everything snakes.
Just the video I was looking for, same bike, same project! The old melted, shorted harness is still in place, so I took pictures. I will start at the headlight shell like you did, then stuff the rest of it through the frame and proceed from there. I have Pazon ignition, but I'll figure it out, thanks again!
Thanks man yeah I've got mine all done now definitely replace the glass fuse holder with a modern fuse holder and hate to say it but you might be replacing some wire ends I did. I got the tri spark ignition.
@@counterculturecycles1860 Hi , it’s an early 1978 T140E and has some T140V cycle parts and seems to be between both parts books, which has been frustrating. Frame, wheels, cycle parts and engine and gearbox done. Next will be Ignition and carbs. So your T140 series has been helpful and inspirational.
@@steveharris3506 My 1978 UK model is all T140V, but I was interested to see that the one shown here has an earlier engine number (same date code but lower serial number). I suppose in the chaos that was the Meriden Cooperative at the time, they were prioritising the US market for the newer model, and using up the last of the T140V parts on the home market versions. Fortunately, I've never had to do a restoration, I bought it in 1993 with only 1300 miles on it and it's still mostly original, apart from a few upgrades, like Boyer ignition and 3-phase alternator.
Nice work, like many I have a certain amount of fear of the dark arts of bike wiring ;-) but the more I do, the more I see the logic. As for your tank, scallop or stripes… hard one, I have the scallops, it defines the shape and lines of the tank. I’m a fan of the stripe too but if you went that way go with the fat middle and two skinny either side. Color Choice, for me, I’d go deep candy apple red as main and a slightly off white for scallops or stripes, scallops pinstriped in gold of course! Will you match side panels to tank colour or go black?
Wiring isn't all that hard just go slow read the instructions and books and if you don't know just ask someone will know oh and don't let alllll the smoke out of your harness
Hi Mate, I’m a bit behind here, about two years by the look of it!! 🤔 and have only just seen your post, I am finally just starting a 76/77 Bonnie rebuild, and I noticed you had the Front Calliper on the RH side, is that a US thing? I’m in Aust and ours are on the LH side behind the Slider. Just noticed and interested!! Also wondering about whether or not to retain positive earth or convert it to negative earth? as I said, just starting the rebuild, wheels are done, and engine is next to come out of the frame, frame and small bits bits then to be painted and bike rewired, chrome to be tidied up and it goes on!! I like your simple explanation of an often daunting task!
My question is: Are the new wiring harnesses better than the original? I rewired my 1973 Tiger in 1984 & made my own wiring harness by duplicating the original harness. I used different colors of 16 Gauge wire & also different colors of tape to color code. I had to reuse the handle bar switches & soldered in place. I got wire sheaving for the handle bars etc. Eventually, I added a Podtronics unit for the rectifier/diode. I think the original harnesses did not have good insulation & wires shorted out & had to be taped up etc. The slip on electrical connectors had soft rubber boots that allowed the metal inside the connectors to break from vibration. I replaced the condenser wires so they only screw on with a nut. Tape everything to protect wires from wearing through due to vibration. Ground everything good. Added ground wires to the metal.sockets inside turn signals. I was talking to a Harley guy at a car show that I had my bike at a few years ago - his first bike was a Triumph & he had wiring problems & would install a new Lucas harness & Eventually have the same problems. You might want to some how protect the body of the ignition coils - they are held at the top & due to vibration can rub through & short out especially when idling & vibration is high. I used rubber hose line to run spark plug wires through to protect & insulate.
I found the new wiring to be great quality, especially when the old one was brittle and worn out. The coils have rubber isolators stock. I put new ones in, can't remember which store I got em from but the are cheap.
Hi nice job on the Bonnie so far, enjoying your vlogs. Im working on a t140v 1976, and just about to start installing a new Lucas loom part number 54962258 which apparently is the correct one for my year, however i have noticed in the headlamp part of the new loom i only have 2 connections to the 3 lights on the top of the shell the oil warning light and the high beam warning light, but nothing for the indicator warning light, was yours the same.
I am assuming u mean the three indicators on the top of the head light for hi beam oil and blinkers do you also have your hibeam switch on the head light if so then you should be fine
It's probably too late to help, but if you don't have connections to the indicator warning lamp, all you need to do is connect one terminal of the lamp to the left indicator circuit (green/red), and the other to the right indicator circuit (green/white).
