SUPER HELPFUL!! I needed to swap some leads on my winch solenoid ( though I had it memorized but I started to doubt myself) and now that I know how the motor works I was able to draw a simple wiring diagram. Now I understand and can trouble shoot. I feel like I just found the holy grail.
Super helpful video, thanks. I just got off the phone with Warn, and their procedure is one step different. They advise attaching one side of a the bridge cable to Armature, leave the other free. Then apply power to F1. Then connect the armature bridge to F2. Then disconnect power and bridge, put power to F2 and then connect bridge to F1. This apparently isolates components somehow, I didn't follow. When I tried your method, all I could get was a spark on the negative. With their method, even though it looks like it should be identical, my motor works fine in both directions. Again though, thanks for making the video. super helpful, and got me started down the path to learning that my motor is fine. Keep up the good work.
Saved me a lot of hassle. My wireless winch controller broke and had a 3 week wait on a new one. I use my winch to tip a firewood trailer. Now I can tip it again by bypassing the solenoid. Appreciate it.
Awesome, bump for part three. Have an M1200 that I have to tap on the solenoid box to get it to operate half the time. Also just got a used industrial 15k that I need to go through and build a control pack for.
I don't own a Warn winch I own what is probably a cheap Chinese copy. My solenoid box for the winch controller rusted out after only a few years and it let me down on the trail when I need it. I rebuilt the solenoids with new parts and I put a bunch of Dielectric grease on it. After thinking of ways to waterproof the controls I decided to pack the whole controller box full of grease. I'm hoping that this works longer than nothing but I won't know for another year too feel free to comment what you think
I like the dielectric grease idea and use a lot of it in connectors, but I mounted my solenoids unde the lid of an ammo can away from my winch (they don't need to be next to it, that's for manufacturer and installation convenience) . The lid flips open and I have total access to noids and wiring. I use welding cable and lugs to make custom cables. The lid and solenoids are removable as a unit by sliding the lid hinge laterally like any other ammo can.
@spsingam Try using penetrating oil on the shaft the clutch knob is connected to. A lot of times there is corrosion between the shaft and case which prevents you from pulling the knob out all the way. Next step after that is to remove the two bolts that holds the clutch assembly to the housing and carefully remove it. Ensure that it is indeed sliding in all the way then reinstall.
First thought is main power wires are hooked up wrong. If you are unsure do NOT attempt to run winch anymore. If you know the main ground and power is hooked up correctly then go to the solenoids, do you hear it click in either direction?
@CATERPILLAR414 Heck no, I have another M8000 that works great, a 9.5XP I'm scabbing parts off of and two 8274s I'm rebuilding. This other M8000 belongs to a friend.
josh tesseneer I had that problem on a rew8000 I did allot of power testing and I found this weird wire that runs to both bolts that you connect your power to and in the middle it has a little red pillow shaped thing I think its a fuse but I can't find one. that maybe your problem. ps its inside with the motor
Good Clip - thanks for sharing ! i got an old Warn i think its some 8274 winch. it rolls and unroll ok, but can seem to get the "free wheelling" clutch thing to work. anyone with ideas ?
However most sockets and wrenches are broached so they fit both and any mechanic knows this. 9/16" swaps with 14mm, 7/16" swaps with 11mm etc. 8mm swaps with 5/16" (handy on many electrical nuts and hose clamps).
