Just goes to show that when you really know what you are doing things that the rest of us agonize over are easy. Many, many repetitions needed to get to that state. Thanks Richard.
I hope my wife doesn’t watch this. She’s never going to believe how long it takes me to turn a piece. Excellent work and beautiful results as always, Sir.
Seeing this in real time demonstrates a lifetime of practice and perfecting your art. Really enjoyed watching this. ... and that mango is some awesome looking wood; love the figure and grain.
An obvious master. Been tuning in for quite a while. I turn average two items a day. Started seriously five years ago after a career got in the way after school. I have many things of enjoyment in my life but nothing has ever kept my attention like the One Way lathe. My wife thought OMG another toy for my shop. She is amazed. If I go away for anytime all I do is watch inspirational experts. Oh yeah and I bought a large bandsaw mill cause frigging bowl blanks were killing my bank account. It’s a pleasure to watch you spin.
The usual no nonsense video and outstanding tuition from the master! I like mango as a figured wood but it's rather unusual in texture and structure compared to most woods and is very soft. A piece washed up on the beach outside my house once and it took me ages to realise what wood it actually was. Thanks Richard
The magic of woodturning is to see a lump of wood transformed into a beautiful bowl. The most amazing part is how you simply apply a quick cut to create proportion and beauty like on the bottom and the single groove/bead.
Beautiful bowl! Thirteen minutes from block to bowl. In my case it is a tad bit longer... By a factor of 10 or more. Thank you for continuing to share your expertise, it is helping all of us improve.
Only 12 minutes? But, but, I thought it would be at least two hours. You out did us again, Richard. By the way, have you ever made a bowl out of Briar wood? It is quite common to use it for tobacco pipes, but it has a sensational grain pattern.
13 minutes start to finish. No wasted effort. Minimum number of tools required, although I believe you might be able to do away with at least one of them. Beeswax finish, no drying time. This was an excellent demonstration of what can be done in production. This is obviously not gallery work but a utility bowl intended for use. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
A day in the life of a veteran production turner. It's easy to see you've done that a few times. Someday maybe you can give us an explanation of how to use those step jaws or at least be able to use the 2 smaller steps. The largest size step diameter seems to be the only useful area unless you use the smaller ones for roughing out a blank. A beautiful piece & great instruction, as always!
The bowl has to be the right shape to fit into the smaller steps of the Step Jaws and I tend to feel this inflicts a better design on bowls. I write about this in Turned Bowl Design and the re-vamp The Art of Turned Bowls. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I have that book and love it dearly. I must have missed that section as I'm always looking for inspiration from all the shapes inside the book. I've recut many bowl bottom shapes to get them to fit the step jaws and it really does a nice difference.
The quality of the surface off the tool largely depends on the timber. I prefer using scrapers for accuracy, but also they usually cut burl very cleanly. In some situations when the grain lifts or tears across the bottom of a bowl I'll use a gouge, but I never feel I have as much control over the form. Longterm, the weight and balance of a bowl ensures it's survival, not some pretty grain.
Hello. I hope you do not mind me presuming to reply for Richard but it is done by making sure that the inner foot size is very close to the Jaw Diameter when fully closed (Not quite) as you expand into the mortise just about all of the Jaw is making contact. If not the points will bite in. Opposite for a Tenon grip. Martin.
As @mc-ki6ik says, you get the foot or tenon the right size for the chuck. There's a video on chucks not marking the wood: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DV2T6oJgCi4.html
Mr Raffan, I am wondering where you get the attachment for the grinder to make it a sanding machine, seems to be a bit more efficient that a drill. Darren
I use an angle drill which has a key chuck and accepts standard sanding pads with a shank and runs at about 1300rpm. It's not an angle grinder and is much easier to handle than a conventional drill.
On this bowl I used some new beeswax given to me by an apiarist. It's very soft compared to the wax you see me use in most videos toat least 30 years before that.
I often mix boiled linseed oil with the beeswax, but I see no reason to purchase oil-based finishes when oil and beeswax produces what I'm after which is a good base for my utilitarian bowls.
Richard I am sorry to annoy you again. I asked a question at the end of one of your videos about the sizes of Shark Jaws you used or recommended, on your VM 100 and VM120 chucks. you replied but I cannot find your reply nor the info re shark jaw sizes. Would you mind reposting an answer for me please.
This video shows the chucks I have now that I"ve downsized and which I'd choose if I had only one or two. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qKLjtu6n2o8.html
Cheers Richard Which size shark jaws would you recomend as a first set to go with a 150mm centre lathe and VM 100 chuck? Referring to the size when the jaws are closed to form a complete circle, the 42mm, 60mm or 74mm for general bowl turning onnmy 150 mm centre height lathe. Shark 55mm 42mm 55mm 33mm V00654 Shark 74mm 60mm 74mm 33mm V00655 Shark 88mm 74mm 88mm 33mm V00656 @@RichardRaffanwoodturning
