Thank you Richard for another amazing design! I love how you quickly come up with solutions. The marking of the squares before they got sanded was an important lesson.
I watched the video where you cut this little piece from a larger root. At the time I really thought that piece was to small to be of use. Well you proved that thought to be wrong. That ugly little piece is now a beautiful little 4 cornered bowl. Bravo Richard. You seem to have the ability to see shapes in the smallest pieces of timber. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Hi Richard, a good use of a piece of scrap. Just a small query. First you have introduced me to the notion of hard and soft beeswax and you use the soft when you want the pores to be filled. On an earlier video which i recently viewed you used what i think you called 'rice oil' before applying beeswax. So when does one need to oil first and wax second and when apply beewax direct with neither oil nor sealer?
With very open pores I'll usually apply oil first, but it doesn't make much difference as the oil and wax mix on the wood. Currently I'm using rice bran oil because I couldn't find any boiled linseed oil at short notice.
Learning so much from your videos! Do you have a short video on your dust collection? It looks like you used plywood(?) as a backboard to minimize dust and chips?
In this hood the sides are plywood, the top MDF. Basically whatever scrap was available at the time. I explain the dust hood in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-twuFE1-6qB0.html.
Wonderful video! I have a question regarding screw chucks, I have a couple of maple blanks, 11" x 3", and was wondering about the size and depth of the hole that you drill for the screw to hold into. I am using a Vicmarc screw chuck. Thanks.
½" of screw should be more than sufficient for a maple blank that size. Generally the hole needs to be the same diameter as the screw shank, but if you have difficulty winding a very dense blank on to the screw, try drilling a hole a millimetre larger.