RIDGID abrasive cut off saw converted to dry cut. Maybe. 

I gotta say, I appreciate the sound balancing. Headphone users everywhere are rejoicing. I think you need to do a tutorial and teach EVERYBODY ELSE who makes videos on youtube to do this.

I received a saw turned in to the tool room for repair. The tag said "Real noisy and won't cut." The blade was in backwards!

A smart man once said "make as many mistakes as you can ..... or watch someone else do it on youtube." The best kind of learning experience!!

After watching your videos for well over a year, I have decided you are a fricking genius.

I slowed my abrasive saw down and put a dry cut blade. I confess --- for the benefit of others --- that I was used to not having to clamp the metal down. The part vibrated a little, the teeth grabbed and the 1-1/2" angle iron went into my hand. That was a trip to the ER and I'm lucky to still have my hand. DONT MESS AROUND WITH DRY CUT --- ALWAYS CLAMP THE WORK PIECE!!!!

Not afraid to try, not afraid to (sometimes) fail, and never afraid to show what he has learned to the world. I love this guy! And trust me, I dont make a habit of just going around loving guys!

"Your eyebrows might grow together." Fucking savage.

Hey AvE! Love your videos! I have some thoughts you might want to consider... Many universal motors are series wound, some are parallel wound (for speed limiting), and some are series/parallel wound, (one field/armature in series, and the other field in parallel with it all). Your saw is probably the series wound unit as you say, and my idea is to either put a big inductor in series of the saw circuit as a choke, instead of the diode, OR rewire the actual motor itself into a parallel connected motor, in which case you will need a choke in series with that field winding (field/choke in series, and that all in parallel with the armature). The first option is easier but less speed regulation, easy to bog down the motor. The second one will give much better torque under load while keeping the speed low enough. These require more effort and trial and error, but not much more in materials, and you'll likely save your motor. The V/I pulses are not smoothed in the diode setup, so the resistance of the windings in the motor will burn up twice as much total power as compared to the choke-limited method, which keeps the entire sine wave, at the same average current and voltage over a cycle. In short, it's those peaks in your diode setup that are being burned up in your motor windings. I probably rambled this off in a way that was hard to understand. It's 11:30 at night lol. I'll explain it better if anyone asks me to :D

Can we please get a shop tour Mr. AvE?

this week on the king of random, I'll show you how to turn this $200 saw into a house fire. Great for parties. Impress your friends.

I'm glad you took the time to test this out... I'm the stubborn type myself and was literally looking at attempting this conversion earlier this week.

Never cease to amaze me I thought nothing more than a blade change! Thanks AvE

Is anyone else loving how AvE is absolutely ROASTING Grant?

that king of random clip.... *shudder*

Started laughing like a madman the moment he does the king of random cut. Wow

120? that's already half voltage!

I just watched this right after I caught up on Alec Steele's most recent live stream where he said something along the lines of, "As AVE would say, Focus! I won't say the last part because this is family friendly"

Shit man if you want to half the speed, just wire two up in series!

Your videos have gotten me back into learning how to do things myself. I found a couple of my dad's old whetstones and have been learning to hand sharpen. Your video on hand lapping clipper blades really helped, they work like a charm now, although of course I used the stones instead of sandpaper (same idea of course). I used to insist on doing everything myself, then I just got kind of lazy. Well, money has been tight for a while now, so I've been getting back into DIY. Its a satisfying feeling!

When I built aluminium patio rooms to cut the 4"×3" extruded beans I used the metal blade for wood on my deewalt and cut for 6 months one same blade. Very loud though. Cut very good

Is the official AvE dictionary available yet?

You just need to move the workpiece to lower the sfm. Instead of clamping it rigidly maybe mount it in a cordless drill. Pucker factor 100%.

I saw those carbide blades and had the same thought (even have the same Rigid saw), but pretty much figured it would play out like this.

Excellent! I loaned my 14" Makita to someone and they used the third option. Fortunately for them the blade wore out before it escaped to low earth orbit. Glad I resisted their suggestion to try again.

The amount of smack-talking on other youtubers in this vijeo is amazing. hehehe

President AvE!

"If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"

Exactly the question I was pondering over the weekend. I came to the conclusion I would have to jerry rig a different motor and maybe even pulleys to get the speed and torque. Now dry cuts are out in the market, abrasives suck more than before.

"Look at the size of 'er wah." -An canadian

Sounds like it needs some LIQUID COOLING! Chop saw with a radiator!

Dry cut saw and powerplasma cutter combo is unstoppable. I love the combo.

you just saved me some money thank you I've got an old rigid chop saw that I thought about putting a different blade on but I think I will just stick with the abrasive blades.

Short video suggestion for you: List of things that *aren't* better with fiberglass reinforcement.

Last time I came this early I ended up having a child

I was beginning to look into the very same thing. You saved me a lot of figuring that I would have probably got half wrong anyway. I appreciate this Cheers!!

I have to agree 100%, I bought a steel blade and used it on a Milwaukee. The blade spun great way less vibration than a abrasive wheel. Made all of 6 cuts and had $100 tuition bill. Blade wouldn't cut anymore just turned the metal a nice orange. Thought about pushing it then I realized my bank account was too low for the ride to the hospital much less the stay. So yeah don't try the dry cut blade on abrasive cut-off saw, unless.... you like watching your $100 bills converted to smoke and ash.

WTF is 0.787 inches? (20mm)

King of random ROASTED! 💥

Bought one of these last weekend - thanks for the attempt.

I had an internship at a motor control place (municipal water pumps and big fountains and stuff). The way they control the speed of a pump, or any motor, is with a device called a VFD (Variable frequency drive). Basically, It takes your AC, rectifies it to DC, and PWMs (Pulse width modulates) a simulated AC signal (bunch of ON/OFF pulses that add up to look like a sinusoid as far as power is concerned) on your motor. You can buy these things on amazon actually (relatively low power ones at least) for a couple hundred bucks, but theyre made to sweep a range of frequencies. If you just care about one... Idk. Im sure there is a simple solution but I don't trust myself enough to advise you on how to not set your house on fire :D

Great video mate. I just went for the simple option and got a three phase saw. Running off a variable frequency drive I can have pretty much any speed I want! I can use it as a cold saw at low rpm and a hot saw at higher rpm. Winner winner chicken dinner!

"An apprentice went at it with a dull beaver." - Uncle Bumblefuck 2017

Just ordered one of those rulers! Looking forward to recieving it.

The videos were you succeed are legendary, but the videos were you fail are the true gems, more fails more better.

If surface feet per minute is the consideration on that 14" blade, there are convenient and affordable 7.25" carbide-tipped circular saw blades at any home center that will effectively cut the SFM (circumference) roughly in half. It would limit your depth of cut to about 3", but for a quick-n-dirty proof of concept without choking elec-chickens, it's an option. (Assuming the arbor hole is the correct diameter.)

Raise your hand if you were shouting "Just put a damn clamp under the guard!"

My STUPERvisor had this setup a few years ago, except with the Milwaukee cutoff. Even though I was only cutting aluminum, eventually the piece shifted in the clamp and jammed the blade splitting the entire housing front to back. After making sure I still had all my fingers, I made sure to show him 2 of them when he blamed me for breaking the saw.

AvE, love your video's man. Always laughing on all those nick names on various technical details. Keep it up.

As an electrician I can tel you that al the people on the coments saying that you should add a gear reduction instead a voltage reduction are right. The thing is that any electrical motor has three independendt vital values: Max voltage (determinted by the insulation of the coils), Max amperage (determined by the eficiency and the ability of disipate heat) and max rotarional speed (determined by the physical characteristycs of the motor shaft and conmutator or rubbing rings both of the last ones if apliable) When you undervolted the motor, to a given load it is goin to draw more current from the wall. Since for a given load it needs X watts it doesn't care if you change the voltage, its gona draw more amps from the wall to compensate, and as you may gest, overheat and burn. Also a characterustic of motors Vs engines. Motors don't have a "max torque" or "max rpm" , they have nominal ones, the diference is that motors will work over nominal until they die. So you can ask a 750w motor to output 1kw and it will do for a shor amount of time until it burns, so you can cheat and ask for more than nominal and if you do it for very short amounts of time you can get away with it winout damange.

5:47 I thought "ah how cool, he even labels his spare parts in his mother tongue, what fer keeping all the pixies and pokey bits neat and skookum." Clearly I don't know electronics.

1:59 gotta love it when the clipboard warriors conjure up some idea that is supposed to be "safe" and sometimes turns out more dangerous than just leaving the dingle arm flapping in the breeze.

This channel has finally given me the courage to come out.... and tell my friends.. that i love classical music. GAAD, that feels good.

Those diablo blades really are better then the rest. I use them every day building fencing with skill saws and sawzalls. Worth the price

Damn. I was really hopeful. I have an old DeWalt abrasive cutoff saw and I was all ready to turn it into Frankenstein's monster.

I had to cut some 1/2" sheet steel. My Plasma cutter just wasn't clean enough so I used a metal blade in my Milwaukee worm drive with full body protection. Boy o boy did the spark fly and cut it like butter for a total of about ten feet. Clean cut and didn''t have to do a ton of grinding. I'll be doing that more often but respecting the blades life as well as my own.

I had a customer return a 14” steelmax blade about 30 minutes after he bought it... missing every single carbide tooth off of it lol. Had to explain to him that he couldn’t use it on an abrasive chop saw and that it wouldn’t be replaced 😂

Hey uncle bumblefuck, I was thinking about this and I have one and took it apart. Turns out it has a gear reduction of roughly 6:1, all you have to do is crack open the gearbox and swap out some gears. Would reduce speed and make the torque even more Hopefully you see this and try it.

what if you machine yourself a gear box? ;)

The way to reduce rpm on series wound is to reduce the voltage. Other resistive regulators such as resistors or shunts cause loss of power because of the voltage drop increase as soon as you apply mechanical resistance on blade. With diodes you lost half of power per each cycle. The smell probably was from your xfmr cause your saw should have thermal protection and meant to be overloaded from time to time. I converted my Bosch mitering saw to metal cutting with half of rpm. I just installed 3kVA xfmr and have about 60VAC on secondary, never had an issue and yes amps on secondary will go hi but they go just as high on 120VAC when u apply force. The only difference is the xfmr allows u get more amps out of your circuit through the turn ratio before your breaker trips at the panelboard

Did this with my cheap Ryobi years ago. Cuts like a beast. No fire yet!

Always so cute, 115/120Vac users and their troubles with breakers.

Shop tour!

Don't take this the wrong way, but I really dig when you fail. Always glorious and edumacational.

Well that answered a couple of questions iv had for a long time . thanks for doing the ground work again !

Always happy to see ELECTROBOOM hahah, he does make me laugh

you need to get matthias to do this with his evo saw

I was thinking about trying to do this, glad I found this video before attempting. I guess I would have to buy one.

Man, I haven't read all the comments and I just started researching dry cut saws. You can do it! Get the gearbox apart and get it chooching by shortening the gearing by half. If it's direct drive, we're screwed. I'm going back to the vice now. Regards, Richard.

...keeping my Richard securely within my parallel bar clamping device...

a reduction gear would reduce the ripums and increase the torque would it not?

I noticed a while ago that you and I have the exact same Milwaukee cordless drill and Rigol oscilloscope. This video shows that we also have the same 3kW variac. Given your expertise, it makes me feel good that we seem to have the same taste in equipment. Keep up the good work my friend, your videos are thoroughly entertaining and educational. You could be a comedian with some of the shit you say.

He pretends to be stupid while being very smart and innovative. I like this guy's style

4:07 and in countries with metric system people say "wtf is 3/4 inch!?" :))))))))))

Never knew Rigid was made by Milwaukee. Missed your calling. Should have been a comedian.

I absolutely love watching you videos. I learn so much!

It seems I can hear my old dad say "Son---If it ain't broke don't fix it". Enjoyed the video anyway.

Nothing wrong with Metric mate, what even is 1/8th of an inch?

What about cobeling up a belt reduction drive?

Man I never figured I'd never need to use "ELI the ICE man". But you proved me wrong.

Thanks. I was going to get one of those blades. The tung tester was great.

it's because you bought a blade for a quickie saw! 😂

Speed Control on an ac motor should be done through frequency variation, not voltage. Also, if you do manage to reduce speed with voltage, you should introduce a current limiting circuit because less speed = less cEMF

Try a single phase VFD, it will allow you to adjust the U-I / U-f characteristics and you may be able to tune it to a point where the saw has just enough torque but does not overheat. Use one where you can disable all fancy features such as vector and slip control, so it will not error out on you.

Carbide simply hates vibration, even a clapped out milling machine can chew up carbide cutters from the play in the spindle especially. I think these get a benefit from the size of this spinning mass but you can't have the individual teeth vibrating on the surface of the material from a light cut. If you aren't pushing hard enough to really make a chip with every tooth on the blade then you will start breaking them. If the cut made your part hot, increase the feed.

This is why I like my Kalamazoo chop saw so much. It's belt driven from two pulleys so I can just change pulley sizes to slow the arbor speed down. I gain torque doing that too. It's only a 7" saw so carbide blades in this size are rated for a higher RPM (about 3500) to begin with.

What if you increase the voltage while under full load? It'll drop the current but keep the same powah output. I do think there is a little drop in torque due to the rotationspeed increasing.

Another possibility would be using a 14" diamond blade for gas saws . we use them on gas concrete/demo saws to cut everything from concrete to steel. On a recent job I loaned mine to the well drillers to cut large metal casing pipes​, several hrs and a few tanks of gas later they couldn't believe how well it cut and the diamond blade was still like new

This dude has tools that haven't even been invented yet....but not a single bungee to hold open a safety shield lol. Love the vids, Thanks!

I love his vocabulary and he doesn’t care about getting demonitized

that blade change montage reminded me of that one time hubby tried to find my G spot welding clamp n all maybe you should send him a ruler hehe you could slow it down by connecting it to a two bar electric fire

Holy old fuck i love this channel, been putting a smile on my face for years

@AvE Good demonstration of what can't be done out of the box. 10:1 gear reduction will probably work, plus add a stream of coolant on the blade and Viola! cut steel with ease.

Why no usey some DeFault 60v battarias?

How 'bout trying to reduce the speed by using a triac, instead of a Variac? I would think that that would work a bit better (what with power factors, over currents, and all such other similar nonsense). Should still provide good torque, what with the triad sensing back EMF, and automatically compensating, and such. Just curious... Like, enquiring minds want to know.

6:28 "One handed in the dark, ohh thats how i do some of my best work" LOL!

Anyone else wondering what the hell he does for a living? I love this channel because it's interesting seeing and learning about this kind of stuff.

love to see a gear reduction or something of that sort rigged up

Bah, like any old Eastern European can tell you, all you need is a chain, two sprockets of different sizes, and a washing machine motor.

Lmfao at the Electroboom skit he always electrocuting himself so funny @Ave