This video was shot around March 2021. Due to delays, I was asked to hold the video until September 2021. That explains the suddenly long hair 😀. I’ll have a 6 month review coming out in the next several weeks!
Great vid. I am retired pastor (on a fixed budget) with a small shop and build mostly small items; jewelry boxes, crosses, and items for Church VBS's. I saw where ridgid has also redesigned their contractors saw. It is the R4550. It has a rack and pinion guide like the DeWalt. Any thoughts on it. Thanks and have blessed day.
This post solves one of my biggest issue here, "it'll be coming out sometime this spring" when this video was posted September which is fall in northern hemispheres. But I am really curious as to how a channel that has less then 16k subscribers on a video that has less then 3k views... can get his hands on a PRE-PRODUCTION Saw like this. That being said... I think this video would have been so much more informative if you had compared it against the Delta Contractor Saw 36-725T2 which this Rigid looks like being copied from.
I am just a person who occasionally works with wood, not a pro woodworker, so YMMV, but I am super happy with the Delta 725T2 sister of this Ridgid. Lowes put these on sale for $325 last year and I managed to get one at that unicorn price. For me it has completely upped my game, as I previously had a blob of metal that vaguely resembled a table saw. Powerful motor, great fence, no complaints. One note on the power switch: I see Eric being super careful about making sure the power is off while plugging back in, but the switch is magnetic. If you pull out the plug when the saw is running, the power switch is automatically released. If you accidentally press the ON button while unplugged it won't matter at all as this is not a normal mechanical switch. Once you plug it back in the saw will remain off until you hit the on button again.
I have the Delta version of this saw. The power switch is designed such that it CAN'T be on until it is pushed and held in for a second after it is powered off - that's why it's a momentary contact and not just an on-off (I assume there is some logic circuitry in there, which probably does the soft-start too). It would have to be badly broken to allow power through without pressing it when you plug it in. My gripe with the power switch is the position of it - I have hit the off lever with my thigh a few times now - grrrr. I may look into relocating it back a bit. I followed your video on making a router table insert for it - awesome and thank you for a really great idea! It came out great.
So update, I ordered and received mine. When I got to home depot we found that the box had been punctured by a forklift. Despite better judgment I took it home. Opened the box and found that the fork did hit and gouged the fence. I called Home Depot they had made a note on their file even before I left the store just in case. I called Ridgid and with no hassle at all they agreed to ship me a new fence it will be here Saturday. I assembled the saw and all the parts were snug and fit as designed. For sure someone could assemble this in an hour to 1.5 hours. Anyway, props to ridgid that was first class customer service. I'll do test cuts to square it up and make sure no other damage on Saturday.
I really like this review. Very thorough, and I like that you went over some reasoning as to why someone may or may not want this saw. Pretty sure I'm sold on it, thanks!
Sometime around 1999-2001 I bought a Ridgid TS2424. Cast iron top and wings, wheel assembly that can be engaged or not. (120v motor). The motor hangs off the back so it's a belt drive blade with plenty of power to rip through black walnut or oak. If you can find that model or one like it (ebay?), it's worth buying. I've used it for everything from making cabinets and rustic furniture, to ripping 4x4's. I made a sled for cutting off an edge of 3" to 4" diameter logs. And another jig to make tenons for log beds frames. Yes, you can do that on a table saw, but always rotate the log clockwise.
So happy to finally see the video on this saw. I just ordered the comparable Delta version basically, it’s twin the other day. I can’t wait to have real dust collection and a true fence. Thank you for being an awesome inspiration. Keep up the great content!
Hey Eric. This is clearly an orange rebranded version of the Delta 36-725T2 table saw that is available through Lowes. Having had that version (Delta 36-725T2) for almost 2 years now, I can absolutely say it is a great saw for the money. In fact, I challenge anyone to find a better saw for under $1000. To address your concern about the power switch. It is a magnetic safety switch (latching relay) and if it is unplugged, it is off. The whole point is that if you loose power using it, the switch (latching relay) will "drop out" and then be in the OFF position so that when power is restored if will not start running again. Hope this helps!
I believe you have demonstrated the maker is far more important than the equipment. You have built incredible stuff with one outlet and a very basic table saw in an apartment garage. Personally, I look for channels such as yours as I know I will never own a multi-thousand dollar SawStop (although I am sincerely happy for those who can afford the high end equipment and large shops :).
It's an Orange Delta. Everything about this saw including the assembly tools you got with it are identical to the Delta saw at lowes. Same fence and everything. Not a bad saw at all. Great saw at this price point. I built a router lift table for the left side and replaced the sheet metal extension. I plan to replace the table on the other side as well. I made the lift table on my cnc. If you want the file for the lift table let me know. I can cnc you one if you don't have access to cnc.
@@SpencleyDesignCo Hopefully they upgrade the availability. The Delta version tends to be hard to find. I had to drive to a Lowes in another state to get it. Not 1 single unit in my state but the Lowes I went to had five.
Hey man.. I 100% feel for you. I also have a 1 car garage at my apartment and I also have only ONE 15 amp GFCI outlet to power all my tools. So I only have 3 major things running off the outlet: my portable air conditioner (an absolute must have for Texas), my miter saw, and my DeWalt table saw. Everything else I have to go for battery powered tools. Soon, I will move into a real home (hopefully) and I'll have a hundred outlets! Lol
As someone who has a small workspace and been woodworking for 20+ years, upgrading to a table saw like this is a must! Still have my job site saw and if you need portability and don’t high accuracy they are fine but if you want to make things that need square accurate cuts save your money and make this purchase. I wish I spent the money when I started woodworking, would have saved my time and allowed me to make better projects.
Thank you for the honest review. While I would never expect perfection for whatever this costs ($600-$800), it's nice to know that you can do the work with it as expected. My dad did decades of pretty impressive work with a 1970's Craftsman Contractor Saw, and I think I knew how to overcome the limitations (or choose projects within the limitations of his saw). I think these Ridgid saws are still very good choices for people unwilling or unable to get a SawStop or professional saw. I want to start building boxes to replace the old drawers in my kitchen, I I think this saw or the R4520 is the sweet spot for me. Subscribed to your channel, I look forward to your next future videos.
Subscribed. There's an old saying in golf: "It ain't the sticks, it's the guy swinging 'em." You prove that applies in woodworking as well. Your two pieces shown near the end of the video are gorgeous! In a one-car (presumably apartment complex) garage with one outlet and budget tools. Wow. Very, very impressive. Cheers, sir! I look forward to soaking up your past and future content.
Interesting review! It would have been nice to see a detailed look at the motor and trunnion assembly. I have the older version of this saw and it is not the best design out there. Aligning it to cut straight is a huge PITA. Everyone knows about the fence issues but the motor trunnion is a weakest link on that model. The other issue is Rigid used proprietary parts that you can't just buy anyware and when you need it it costs a fortune to replace. I not knocking Ridgid as a whole I have a few of their other power tools corded and cordless! When it comes to a Table saw I think you get what you pay for. In this case the $649 price tag Ridgid is asking I would not expect cabinet saw results nor would I expect longevity under daily use.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but i think that power button is a magnetic contactor switch. The current running through the saw keeps it switched on. So basically if the power is cut(as in unplugging the saw) , the switch turns off by itself and will only come on if you switch it manually while its plugged in. So for me that wouldn't be an issue. Great vid nonetheless. Cheers!
I currently have the original version of this saw and I hate, HATE hate the fence. It worked great new but I use mine a lot and it quickly became so inconsistent. Right now I am using new insert's in the fence that I ordered online and while it works kind of it has made it VERY stiff. Yes, I've waxed them but I don't want to sand them any and have them go out of adjustment like the originals. I looked at purchasing an aftermarket fence but I could buy a new saw for the price and I really like this saw other than the fence. I wish this saw had been available when I purchased the other. Thanks for sharing this review it will help in my decision of what I buy next!
I purchased a R4514 from Home Depot during the 2021 Holiday Season to replace a 30 year old K-Mart 10 inch table saw on stationary stand which cost $99.99 back in the day and is kept outdoors undercover with a waterproof BBQ cover for protection from the weather elements. That old saw has given me my money's worth over the years. Although the R4514 specifies a 30 inch rip, too bad Ridgid uses plastic gears for raising and lowering the blade.
I have the Delta branded version of this saw and the table isn’t flat at all, it’s about 0.5mm lower in the center! The square tube sections the fence is riding on aren’t same height which means the fence is pumping into this step all the time. If you buy this saw no matter which branding you choose, checkbit carefully! Other than that this is a great saw at the price point. I upgraded from the Dewalt DWE7491 and it is a major upgrade for not much more money. But I have to say the Dewalt jobsite saw seems to be much better than what you had before…. But it costs only ~$150ish less than the contractor saw.
If your still looking for a portable saw with high accuracy that you can use for rough cutting as well as furniture building, check out the Dewalt DWE7491RS. It has a 32.5" rip capacity and also has the best fence on the market. It is based on a bomb proof rack and pinion system.
Great video. I like the sawstop comparison at the end. I have the same issue with having a small shop. Do I buy the SS jobsite now knowing that in a couple of years I want to get a bigger place where I may be able to fit a contractor saw or use the Skil TS I have now until I move. I got back and forth everyday. Great vid though!
I'll keep my Ridgid TS3612, they really went downhill after the 3612. My 3612 is wired into a 220V outlet, plenty of power for all those heavy ripping duties. The Sawstop Contractor saw is 120V or 240V, you simply rewire the motor for 240V once you move to a location that you can use it that way. A side note...many saws equipped with a multi-voltage motor doesn't give you maximum HP unless its wired up to a 220V outlet, so on a 1.5HP saw on 120V, you might be getting 1HP max.
Great review! Only item that i do not like with this ridgid saw from what i can see is it no longer carries there lifetime LSA warranty. That has come in handy several times for me. I've also found my local homedepot is a repair center even though ridgid does not advertise this. i've been looking at this saw as an upgrade and came from the same jobsite saw you previously had. It actually had the same blade height adjustment failure. I took it to homedepot and they fixed it free of charge. I've been disappointed with my jobsite saw since the day i bought it. My father has what appears to be the same saw, but a model older and the build quality is significantly better. From the aluminum cast table to the blade the stand, everything was more robust.
Your old saw had a built it wobbling dado stack 😅 what a great included value feature! Seriously though those things are terrifying now that I know that they exist. Thanks for the great content man 👍
For the power button issue, there is a hole that lines up that you are supposed to place a zip tie or some other form of lock to keep the button in the off position. We call it "Lockout, Tag-out." You should always Lockout, Tag-out if you are preforming maintenance... do I? No; Unplugging it is enough for me.
If that is a magnetic switch, don't worry about it. They are literally designed to be OFF unless you press the ON button. Lose power? Switch is in the off position (test this by unplugging it while it is running, then plugging it back in). Press the big red paddle, it's in the off position. It's a safety feature and I have retrofitted all my vintage stationary tools with similar switches because of it.
That's a nice solid review. I especially liked your comparison of all the saw stop saws. It doesn't make sense to buy a 1.5 hp saw when spending that much money. I have a 1970's Craftsman cast iron saw. The only reason I'd like to upgrade is to have a riving knife. But I have a biesemeyer fence on it and a dust collector hooked up to it that does a decent job. This saw looks exactly like the Delta from Lowes. I'm surprised that the dust collection is good with the saw being open like that.
I just bought the R4513 at a yard sale for 75 bux. It didn't have the rip fence so now it's turned into a 200 dollar TS. I love the portability but I could tell without even using it that it's not going to be perfect, consistent cuts. It's ok tho because, I am the butcher from Dutch Hill 😆
Great review. After watching I'm totally ready to upgrade from my Skil table saw to this. When you showed how much the blade wobbles it was an aha moment. That and always measuring the fence to both ends of the blade. What a hassle. Your reviews and very detailed and much appreciated.
The Kobalt table saw the fence alignment is just as frustrating . I'm waiting on mine. The Ridged R4560 fit my similar work space. It seems to check the boxes, Price, size. better fence. Thanks for the review.
Your saw has a magnetic switch. If it you disconnect it, or it loses power it should not start when plugged back in or the power comes back on. Also, I had the Delta version of this saw and had 2 problems with it. One issue was the table was not very flat. The big problem was the fact that the arbor assembly had play in it and my zero clearance insert looked like the one from your old saw. I could grab the arbor nut and rock the assembly back and forth. I went to my local Lowes and the display model did that same thing. I returned it and went with a different saw. I bought a Fusion F2, had problems with that and returned it. I then ended up with a Shop Fox W1837 and have been very happy with it. What should you buy? Well, I built a mobile base for my saw with built in extension tables and storage. Got a real fence for it and all is well. At the time I did not want to get another job site saw either. The contractor version of the Saw Stop was a no go for me due to the external motor. A full cabinet saw was a no go as I need it to be mobile. The Delta, and then Shop Fox W1837 both work well with my mobile table idea. However, now that I look at my table, I could have easily built the able around the Saw Stop jobsite saw, and still used the same fence setup that I have now. I have a Jet Xacta rail kit with 53" rip capacity and a Very Super Cool Tools fence. It is a great setup. Anyway, just wanted to share this info. There are 3 big drawbacks to jobsite saws. The stability of the saw on the stand, the small table surface area and the bad fences. I could have resolved all of those issues with my mobile stand and had the safety features of the Saw Stop.
I had purchased the Delta Table Saw. It took me a day to put that saw together, only to find out that the motor would not start, and the the blade angle adjustment had a broken track. The Customer Service was terrible and I never had a call back or email. After 3 days of waiting, I took the Delta Saw back to the Blue Big Box Store. I am looking for a nice table saw, so I hope maybe this will be a better choice than my Contractor Saw that I am using now.
Good review. Very thorough and I enjoyed you going through your opinions on the saw. I really like the extra table room you get with this over a jobsite saw. It's super noticeable if you're not just doing construction. I'm excited to see these out and about. It's just a Ridgid licensed 725T2 but those are good saws so I'm sure these will be too. For anyone that frequently exceeds 30 inch rip capacity I would highly recommend a track saw. It's a great asset to have one around for a lot of different projects.
I believe this saw will not start up once plugged in. …. So if you blow a breaker for example and then reset it. You’ll have to turn the saw back on. You can try it by running the saw. Un plug it. Plug it back in. If it doesn’t start up then other than the habit of checking the switch. Your good to go.
I will say upgrading my garage outlet to 220v for my R4512 has been amazing and it hasn’t really bogged down with its 1 1/2 hp motor. Wish that was an option for you!
@@danielbrown9368 so the panel on the inside of the saw has a diagram for how to hook it up. You just need a 220 cable and plug end. If you’re not comfortable making your own cable I’d ask around for a local shop or electrician to help you out.
@@CamachoDean Ah sweet. I should be ok with a diagram. ("should") I just don't have any skill to go off script for sure. My issue is my DeWalt 745 doesn't have the strength I need anymore. I have all the electrical I want, just trying to pick a good saw with good rip capacity and no need to be portable. Space no problem either. Mainly ripping ply all day. Some treated dimensional. Picking between R4520 or the one in the video. Will definitely want to go 220v then it seems. Thanks bud!
For what it matters, the power switch assembly is what's called a magnetic safety switch. If the saw is on, and power is removed, the switch will disengage, or fail to engage if you attempt to turn the saw on while it is unplugged. In either case the saw will be off when power is restored. Granted, its still a peace of mind thing to push the power off button before plugging it in, its just not needed.
Yeah I know it’s a magnetic one, but it’s just the peace of mind of visually seeing it off that would make me more comfortable. Definitely not a necessity though
@@SpencleyDesignCo Ya, I have been thinking about getting a lock for my switch for when I'm working on the saw. Should force me to check over the saw before trying to turn it on.
@@SpencleyDesignCo I do, but if I leave the shop for a while it's fine to double check I didn't leave anything in a poor state. Adding the step of a lock would remind me to double check that everything was put back together the last time it was taken apart lol
Did you miss screws? I was supplied only 12 screws of the hp15 to assemble the rails and extension wings and you need 16 total. Am I doing something wrong?
So, I finally pulled the trigger today. It took me a while but finally convinced myself. It should be here sometime next week. Let’s see how this goes.
Nice! It looks like ridgid has been partnering up with delta, as all of the new table saws from ridgid look like the delta versions, just orange. Lowe’s sells that exact same saw, just in a different color.
@@SpencleyDesignCo I have seen all of the new ridgid models out on the Home Depot app, as well as the prices, but the app said “out of stock”. All of them look the same as the deltas. I have had a delta like that, and I do fine furniture, and I loved it! Only issue was that I nicked my finger on the blade twice, so I upgraded to the sawstop contractor saw. It is better in terms of capacity, build quality feels similar, but the dust collection on the sawstop isn’t very good. But other than that, I enjoy my sawstop
@@SpencleyDesignCo they are great! I just wish I bought the cabinet saw rather than the contractor saw. The insides of that thing gets caked with dust all the time… the cabinet saw would be so much better
It's a repainted Delta saw. $600 vs $750. Deltas may have creeped up in price. I love mine, the Kobalt router table top slipped right into that empty leaf, but you probably know that as well. No doubt, this is great video.
@@SpencleyDesignCo I noticed Rigid underpowered these saws, my delta is 15 amp with soft start and I know there are some motor issues, but my luck has held out so far. I didn't know Rigid didn't cover with the life time warrant? Thanks for that.
I’m pretty sure that you have an electrical magnetic power switch- meaning if you lose power/ unplug the saw the switch turns off and won’t turn on till you push the ON button.
I am looking at purchasing this today. I know this is identical to the delta t2 and the delta t2 has GREAT reviews on its fence. Is this fence just as good? are you still liking this saw after having it for a couple months? have you had to make any aftermarket adjustments?
Really liked the in depth video. Does this saw have any underneath dust collection? It looks like it has something in the pics online but I cant quite tell.
My Ridgid cast iron table saw has a issue where the casting is cupped on the motor side of the casting 1/16 dip, they all have at least 1/32 dip because they don't let the cast iron settle before they attach the motor and package it.
I had an old Delta model that was a really good model, but I bought it second hand and it was kind of beat up. Then I closed a garage door on it. Oops. So I bought the rigid 4512, which I think is the previous model of this saw. It's a hybridcontractor/cabinet type. It has been pretty good. I have not found an issue with the fence or the table like some, but the workmenship is not what a Delta would be. Sloppy welds and such The thing I hate most is the thin throat plate. Its arrangement makes it very difficult to route duplicate plates like I did for the Delta, so I am stuck with buying their zero clearance plates. I cannot say that I would be making better stuff with Delta, but if I had to do it again i would spend the extra money.
I'm not sure how it's built but if you do a follow up I would appreciate it to get a good description of how the motor is mounted, maybe try to show it, is it direct drive or belt, what's the blade runout actually like, vibration (pass the nickel on edge test?). I have a old delta shop master that I have had for many years. It's ok but being what it is, like jobsite saws, it has issues with the design and construction. Would really like to get as much information on this one as I could.
Actually the one you’re showing at replacing it is the wrong one that would be the next step up it has a different fence on it and a few other minor differences one of which includes the possibility of having the router table already on the side table. The old version run $650 and the old version you’re showing is around $750. I’ve been contemplating picking one up that’s why I already know this.
Great review. This is a Delta table saw with a different color scheme and probably manufactured in the same plant. The delta is a good saw so you will be pleased. Thanks
After doing a bit of research myself. It appears TTI is phasing out the Delta name and rebranding with Ridgid. This table saw along with the Delta Cruzer. Great video though man, I appreciate it.
Nice to see a review of the R4560, even though it's a pre-production unit. I hope they're able to fix the capacitor/motor issue that's been a problem with the Delta versions, which has kept me from pulling the trigger on it. Otherwise it looks like a great mid-level table saw.
I honestly have no idea. My saw came in a completely unmarked box with no instructions or anything since it’s a prototype version. I don’t have a manual to refer to
If someone is just getting into woodworking and considering buying a new job-site saw - don’t. Buy a quality, used contractor saw that is in good condition. You’ll pay about the same and will get much more saw for the money.
Eric, I really appreciate your review of this table saw. I do have a couple of questions. Have you noticed any issues with a dado stack with regards to being limited in how wide of a stack you could use? Do you have any recommendation/suggestion on if I should upgrade the fence on my current Rigid R4512 or use the money towards a better table saw? Currently a Shop Fox W2005 fence system is running around $450 to $550. I'm struggling to justify that cost for just a fence. You make beautiful projects.
Did you do any calibrations or adjustments as part of setting up your saw? My R4560 came with the blade out of parallel to the miter slot, with the rear of the blade being about 1mm closer to the miter slot than the front of the blade. Super dangerous in terms of creating kickback. However when I looked at the manual they only gave me instructions for checking this alignment as opposed to setting it, which was kind of weird. Most other saws would have you loosen the trunnion bolts, so I tried that with this, but appears they were drilled to a close fit as opposed to slotted, so you can't scoot the blade assembly left-to-right with respect to the table. There's another vid out there where they have folks messing with the vertical rod couplings. Kind of weird, and there's not enough play in mine to get it to move left-to-right reliably.
Thank you for your video! Excellent professional presentation. This helped me decide to purchase this saw. New subscriber. You are clearly the type of person I’d love to give business to.
The switch on your new saw us to have power to be on if you want to test this plug the song and turn it on unplugged it plugged it back in and you’ll see the switch shuts off automatically for safety reasons
Dude, you don't need to tell if it's on or off. Unplug it, plug it back in and it's off. Automatically. It won't go back on just by plugging it in. Kinda makes your "issues: with the power button moot, don't it?
I’ve seen this review a few times already. I’m very close to pulling the trigger. I just have another question. Sorry for bothering you again. With my old job site Ridgid saw, ripping 45 degree cuts was almost impossible due to how out of the square everything was. How ar Ethel 45 rips on his one?
I can’t get my riving knife flush. I have done the adjustments a 100 times. I may have to return which will be a pain. I will take any advice you can throw my way. Even a number to the manufacturer maybe they could help. Thank you.
Again great vid... another question. How long is the front rail? Can't find that info on any site. I am a retired pastor living on a fixed income and have a small shop. Trying to figure out if I can use it easily in the space I have. I have an old Ryobi BT3100 which is 19 years old and running slow. It is in-between your old saw and the new one. Ridgid is coming out with a new portable saw but it will have less work space than I have now. Thank for your help and look forward to see more vids of your work.
@@SpencleyDesignCo Sorry, I must have missed that... When I saw it on the HD site and it didn't have the measurements, I messaged you. Price is 649.00.... Thanks again
so this Ridgid R4560 is what's called "Contractor saw", and as you highlighted in your video its 32" cut capacity that you considered a plus, and it costs around $700, but Metabo C10RJSM which considered jobsite saw and costs around $400, has a 35" capacity cut, and has separate adjustment for blade height and incline and dust collector and . . .. . .......and everything the contractor saw has and plus. I'm now confused what's the advantage of a contractor saw beside being more expensive than a jobsite saw when the jobsite saw can do more and plus than a contractor saw ?
I ordered the R4560 on 9-27; won't be here until mid October. I will be building the saw into my rolling work bench and using the legs for a lower, smaller bench. would you please measure the distance from the top to the point to where the top joins the legs of the bottom portion? Really liked your review. It sold me on the saw. Thank you, Ken
@@SpencleyDesignCo Eric, My saw left GA 2 days ago but it's not scheduled for delivery until 10-19-21. Would you be so kind as to measure the top 1/2 of the saw, from the top to the bottom where the top 1/2's legs end? I can then keep working on my bench. Thank you very much.
@@SpencleyDesignCo Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, about 19 inches will not work. Here's how it can it can be easily measured for an exact measurement. Clamp a 30" or so strip of board so that the bottom edge of the board is across the front of the saw, even with the bottom edge of the top's legs. Then measure from the bottom of the board to the top of the saw. Walla, an exact measurement. I realize it's more effort. However, I really do appreciate your time to do this. Thank you VERY much. The only reason I can think of why it''' take about three weeks for the saw to arrive is that it's not being shipped via UPA or FedEx. Instead it's on a Home Depot truck full of saws with drop offs at several stores. Another reason?
Great video! You give a clear and concise pro-con between job-sight and contractor saws and it is a big difference. Every con you stated, I noticed I agree with. All job-sight saws have most of these downfalls. There are some that stand out. The DeWalt saws are great but very pricey for what it is and the Delta has a far superior before-the-cut distance which is the absolute worst if any job-sight saw... Even the Bosch and Metabo saws suffer here. I can't get over how similar your saw (and I looked at it online in depth) is to the Delta 36-725 T2 which I just bought. I made the same assembly mistake and had the BS on backwards. The for pedal should be on the left side so you can easily access is but you have yours on a mobile platform so no harm, no foul. I reversed mine last night. Just some sweat and a scrape or two... That is before you mount the rails and then it's a big deal.
After looking at this at length, I am convinced this saw is either made by Delta or in cooperation with Delta. The Delta 36-725 and 36-725 T2 are identical including the fence. This isn't surprising as the tool industry is as incestuous as it comes. There are only like 3 or 4 actual power tool brands and I bet Delta and Rigid are linked... Probably Milwaukee too
I have the delta and it looks nearly identical in tubular design. The fence looks very similar even the small piece component seems to be on the fence that folds down. I now want to test my stop button. I recall that if the saw is unplugged it will fault to off. This is in case there is a power outage and then it comes back nobody gets hurt. You should try unplugging it while running then plug it back in.
This is the Delta saw with an orange wrapper! I have the Delta personally and is exactly like this but less expensive. I paid $679 for mine at the blue box store in Sept 2022
Are the hand cranks metal or plastic? Delta's version of this saw has metal ones. I don't see any other differences between the Ridgid R4560 and the Delta 36-725T2.
@@SpencleyDesignCo Thanks for responding! I went ahead and purchased the saw. Looking forward to finally replacing my 25-year-old Pro-Tech jobsite saw.
Just ordered this saw from HD. Should be a considerable update from my old Makita 2708 with a slightly bent fence. Was holding out for a Laguna F2 but given the price and what I really need the table saw for I couldn’t justify the price. Hopefully the 4560 does what it needs to without any issues!
@@SpencleyDesignCo I had a Laguna Fusion I for several months. It had a very smooth running motor and was well built. However. the fence was mediocre at best and it spewed sawdust out the blade opening. I suppose that's why they put dust collection on the Blade. It's there for a reason and the reason is not a selling feature. At first, I thought is was due to blade alignment so I set about aligning the blade. That task was a challenge to say the least. There are 4 bolts to loosen, 2 in the back and 2 in the front where the trunnion mounts to the top. The bolts use an allen wrench and mine were extremely tight. Getting at them is tricky as there is no opening at the back or the front of the saw, only on the sides and those openings are adequate IF you have small hands and long fingers. I ended up laying the saw upside down for easy access which led to flipping the saw back and forth until it was aligned. I needed to use a secondary tool to grab ad twist the allen wrench in order to get enough torque to loosen the bolts. After getting the saw back on the stand and ripping a board, the sawdust spewed forth as bad as it was before. I spose it could be that I didn't get it aligned properly but I wasn't going to go through that again. Very good saw except for that. UGH!! UFF-DA!!!! I'll take the Ridgid, thank you very much.
@@SpencleyDesignCo once it comes in and I can get it set up, I’ll report back! In the process of building and setting up a 20x20 dedicated workshop for my business
@@SpencleyDesignCo update! My saw came in. Got it assembled. Waiting for my Freud blade to show up before dialing it in and putting it to work. The measurements on the front rail are slightly off but I believe there should be an adjustment for that. For example if I set the fence at 1.5” on the rail the fence is actually 1.625” from the blade
Thanks for the review, I think this table saw is a great option for a newbie like myself. I'm from Canada and this ''next generation'' model 4560 is not yet available in Canada. You showed a pic of the 4520 model, which is available in canada. I was wondering if the 4520 model is just as good or should I hold off and wait for the 4560 to become available
@@huejanus5505 Thanks Hue for the scoop. You're right, delta clone is 999$. Too bad the closest Lowes is about 175 KM away from me. I'll wait a month or so and if the Ridgid version is not available, I'll take a drive Ottawa and pick up the Delta version. Thanks again
The older big ridgid saw is on sale at my HD for $675… was very tempted but there are enough 1-star reviews to make me nervous. This one seems interesting for $650
Take those reviews with a grain of salt. The only people who are going to take the time to write a review on Home Depot absolutely LOVE the saw or HATE the saw. It’s pretty tough to find an objective review
@@SpencleyDesignCo that’s a good point, I read a few of the bad reviews and there was a common design issue/flaw they reported. I’d hope they would fix some of those with this new model, I should probably wait for some more reviews, but yours was very helpful! Thanks!
I try my best to be very honest! I can say that I probably use my saw harder than the majority of folks, and I’ve had it since February and not a single issue has cropped up
Hey man, I looked through the comment but didn't see someone address this. Your concern about plugging it back in....I believe that saw had an electro magnetic switch. So it would not turn on if you plugged it back in. I understand wanting to SEE that it's off. But I just figured I would tell you. Please tell me if I'm correct bc I can't find the exact switch online.
