just stumbled upon your videos and they’ve helped me out tremendously. i run a nesmith style street stock but i’ve started running my dads old vintage car that’s on an old late model chassis. with the cars having two completely different types of rear suspension setups i had no idea on where to even start, but thanks to your videos i’m making huge improvements on the car every time i roll out onto the track. really appreciate you documenting all your work man!
Thank you for the great feedback on my videos man. I am glad you were able to improve your racing program with them, keep improving and learning. And may see you in a late model eventually. Any questions message me on my business page link in on my RU-vid channel page. Good luck in your upcoming races.
I've been going to dirt races for 40+years and never heard or seen such well explained info. As you know most racers speak somewhat "vaguely" . Great video even for the Joe Schmo fan. 👍👍👍
Thank you JIrry3 for watching, and you are correct. This video is usable info based on my experience and personal opinion on tuning these cars. All facts and info not lacking details or misleading and stuff I personally use for my programs. For the guys and girls up and coming plus the teams on smaller budgets wanting real usable info.
I just put out my detailed tuning guide it's real usable info and everything you need to get it done during a night at the races. facebook.com/DirtLateModelTechTips/posts/1678573748976084
New to dirt late model racing and I’m in almost a 20 year old car and last week was black flagged for spin outs but what you described I was feeling car handles great into corner but when I get on the gas car hangs out I’m bottoming out but im going to try shortening the rods to see if that can help I like the advice and will be watching videos to for handling solutions bc me and my dad are learning and have some help but for the most part are by ourself and I can’t find anywhere else for videos so it’s greatly appreciated definitely subscribing
Thank you this weekend I lost all forward bit just seen not to go I think years ago afco had a shock that went in the 4bar link if I can find it might try that
Hi Dave when you talk about Bar angle are you set angle with car on ground at ride hight or are you looking at Diff at shock stretched out on chassis jack ?
Hey Chris that's a good question. See when a racer get on my program or buys set up guide from me I help establish a good starting baseline, while logging where their at currently. That way always have a "restore" point if ever get off too badly or car changes. I as customers where are your bars? They reply, "oh, there in rocket STD, or it's one above, kryptonite STD." (Both good cars respectably)To me that means nothing, STD?!?! That could be anywhere in bar angle. So I verify correct bar position by angle solely. I do this in 2 positions, static¹ and dynamic ² measuring all my points I confirm they are as I desire for correct handling, having driver know what to expect and movement of torque arm and rear end. I will only accept confirmation of my list of chassis and suspension points only if measured and verified to be correct. Doing this you will be consistently better meaning a higher average finish vs if you didn't. My mindset and the mindset I teach my customers to have is, "never guess, never assume, hands on confirmation only". 🔨⬇️
So what are your thoughts on using the right rear to get through the center and rotate on the throttle? We have been dealing with our GRT with a throttle tight issue that you kinda touched on and we have ended up dropping the right rear upper bar 2 holes on the axle and it is finally turning through the center on the throttle. Our car has a very limited amount of holes on the frame side. We are starting to move towards a heavier RR spring also. It is starting to seem very happy now. Turns in great and stays up on the left rear, turn through the center off the throttle and then rotates on the throttle. We can adjust exit using the limit chain on the right rear as GRT has a set length from the frame to the axle and it says to shorten the chain in 1/4 inch increments to tighten exit.
So changing bar angles on RR does effect ride height if the radius on chassis brackets doesn't follow the bar radius. Regardless, it's minimal if it does. I primarily focus of the LF, RF, and RR ride heights. The LR is the variable in height as that will change with changing extended load.
Have you ever tried the RR shock on the back ? My car is a 08 Mastersbilt and it has a shock frame mount for a behind the axle on the RR ,, it seems the bird cage would rotate and compress the spring and load the RR more ?
That is static bar angles at ride height or as would be in scales with driver. 3 for RR lower is still to low I have found. That's more my dynamic angle I try to stay around for semi heavy conditions say 3/8 mile tracks.
@@DaveyAkersMotorsports yes sir if you need more insight my written information is loaded with real usable numbers situations and email straight to you, check out these guides. Adjustment guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/9974U9XA5MTYS Set up guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/4J87KMZC9D5PU Tire guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/W6GF2X6VSBNFN
Hi dave, I race in Stockcars in the netherlands. We drive on ovals asphalt and dirt. I maar realative new with setting up my race car. Dan you Maybe want to help me with that? I would really appreciate that.
I am wondering what the effects are if you raise the rr upper bar as to how it will index into the spring. When I raise that bar it seems to make the car tighter and not rotate even though I am adding steer. Do you think the rr spring is already to stiff?
@@DirtTrackDave All of it. Guess it just moves too fast for Me. From the earliest part of looking in from the right rear I am lost. Like I said, I am not smart enough, even though I would love to gain this knowledge you posted.
