@@Ryonet hmmm this is kind of a hard one now because this answered so many of my questions. Maybe platen upgrades and bracket placement. Recently got a 18x18, 18x20, 20x20. Would love to know how to make the most of those with my 150.
I am really getting a lot of good tips and tricks and really appreciate it. Learning as I go, I thought I was nuts seeing the movement and need for a lot of readjustments. But your break down is exceptional. And I really dig that you show "mistakes" as you go. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.
I am impressed with his patience and dedication to the trade. Having said that, I am convinced we need a rock star engineer who can design a machine with one try registration. Technology has to move on for the better and easier to set things up.
You don't upgrade this press to micros, if you're looking for a press with micro registration, check out the Riley 250: www.screenprinting.com/products/riley-hopkins-250-4-color-1-station-screen-printing-press-with-xy-micro-registration
the 250 is cool but nobody would buy it if the 150 had micros. i think the company knows this as well. the 150 used to have micros. there are plenty of people on here showing theirs when it did.@@Ryonet
also, I just spoke with someone from Ryonet. they can't even recommend buying this thing. now that is sad. they said to buy the 250 because getting this thing in registration would be hell. which it is. how about just giving people what they want to buy if they are willing to pay for it? nobody even really wants the 250. i read all the forums.@@Ryonet
I’m thinking about getting a Riley press and using it in my mom’s garage, but is there any risk to using it in a hot environment? It’s almost summer time so I’m anticipating the garage to be pretty hot without AC / proper ventilation
Newbie here--one of my favorite videos so far! I have an old Silver Press 4/1 so this was great for me to see. Question about smoothing screen...is it just a regular screen? Is it coated with emulsion?? What is the clear ink you used?? Thank you so much for these videos!
Heather - in the video before this one, where I talk about the art and making screens, I show how to make the smoothing screen. Its simply a coated screen, typically a higher mesh count, that is exposed without any image.
I did the clear tape and got the register and then when I took the tape off it took the underbase with it 😭 What kind of clear tape is it that you used? Can I also do this with a blank transparency sheet?
Good morning @johnl805! using clear tape to register is a cool old school trick/technique and super helpful. i guess when i do that technique i don't really ever take the tape off in order to print on the base underneath the tape. I just do another test print to confirm i am indeed all lined up. As far as what i use, i use either packing tape or Clear Choice Registration Tape. A blank transparency wouldn't have any adhesive on the back to get it to stick, so i probably wouldn't recommend that. Hope this helps!
I have some questions . What kind of silk holes are used in this experiment? What transparent material did you use on the white color? Thank you very much for this wonderful video
I will do different for the off contact. I will find me an aluminiun frame thin enough to match the off contact. I will put the thin frame under the screen and using a level to make it all level. And do the rest of it same way.
Hey I have a question when registering with the 150, I’ve been trying to do a 2 color print, I’ll have the registration right on but then once I lift the screen move it and bring it back it’s off. I’m not sure what’s causing this. I’m new to printing
Hi! There could be several reasons for this. First - lets make sure the screen is not resting on the platen at all - that you have set the print head for proper off contact. The screen should be "floating" above the platen and no part of it should actually touch the platen. Second - lets make sure the nylon bolts are snug (but not too snug!) up against the print arm. Third - is the platen clamp snugged down nice and tight? Does the platen shift? What are you aligning to? Has it moved? If you are still having issues past this - please give us a call and we can go over it with you!
I have this press and I am having issues with my off contact. No matter how I adjust the heads, the screen sits at an extreme angle. Or it just lays on the shirt completely. It takes me an hour and I can still see my underbase even though it is choked. Could that be an issue fixed by readjusting tilt/off contact?
Hi @johnl805 I responded on your other comment... we can totally get you dialed in. give us a shout. here's the message from the other post.... Good morning @johnl805 ! Yes there is a tilt adjustment and we would be pumped to talk you through how to use it. You can email me directly at jwells@ryonet.com or you can call us at 3605767188. In short if you are looking at the BACK of the screen clamp there are two bolts. This is your off contact which allows for vertical, up and down adjustment. Where the screen clamp attaches to the arm that brings it down there another two bolts. one is basically a pivot point and the other is what locks in place. This is your tilt adjustment. Hope this helps, give us a shout and we can walk you through it.
I noticed you didn’t mix the FN white ink. MY FN white is SUPER thick. Even with mixing it, it doesn’t come out that good on one pass. It’s very uneven. Is it supposed to be this hard to work with?
I have a couple questions if you could answer please! 1. Can i cure with a flash dryer? 2. If i can , how long do i flash the shirt for if the flash dryer im using is 2000 watts and is fixed at 400 C
Hi Kayla. Yes, you can cure any ink with a flash dryer. We do have a couple of videos that you can watch that will walk you through the process. We also have plans for an updated video on curing ink. As for how long to flash with your flash unit - flash long enough, so the ink is dry to the touch and not sticky. No One can give you an exact time for this. It is dependent on how warm your ink is, your ink deposit thickness, how warm your platens are, the ink itself, and how far your flash is above your platen. 1 inch off will flash faster than 4 inches off.
@@kaylachermolololo6401 the first reason to use an underbase is: A white underbase is used whenever you need the colors of your design to look like they do in the bucket. Say, you print yellow on a royal blue shirt... that yellow is going to tint towards a green shade. If you put white down first, that blocks the blue of the shirt and allows the yellow to remain truer in color. the second reason is: As a way to block dye migration when printing on poly and poly blended garments.
@@colinhuggins6164 colin you’re the only one i can relay on lol im having trouble finding any good answers my question is what can i do if i dont have a pressure washer? Well i can get one its just i dont have a water source and cant really spend money on anything like that so is there any alternative?
@@kaylachermolololo6401 oh goodness.... Water is pretty essential as its used as our source for rinsing clean and reclaiming / developing our screens. My thoughts are to create a recirculating system with filters to pull out all the particulate... but it is not going to be cheap... I'm sorry, but I do not have a good answer for you :(
@@Ryonet I'm definitely hesitant to drill into the screens haha, but if I can't come up with a better solution to get them on the walls and ceilings I might have to try it your way
Hi Colin - Im setting up my 250 press and other equipment now. I have an Epson ET-16600 Printer. Originally when I ordered it, the 16500 model was supported by PrintFab. Now it looks as though even that earlier model is not supported. Is there another RIP software or other solution that you could steer me to that would work well for creating Color Separations from Adobe Illustrator? Also - do you think there might be a chance that the ET-16600 will in fact work with AccuRip Emerald or other? I kind of get the feeling that some printers aren't listed on their site because they don't actually have that model in their shop to verify it, or is it more complicated than that. Please let me know your thoughts or anyone else please with input. Thanks!
The main issue with printers and rip software lately is the lack of availability for the traditional "recommended" printer models. Printer supply chain issues have created a world of hurt for everyone in our industry. My suggestion is to find rip software that is offering you a lot of flexibility but also has clear instructions and recommendations on printers you can use - and that are available. Those list are growing everyday as the rip companies test more and more printers.
I don't know anything about screen printing, and have no real clue about how close the screen should be to the material to be printed on. 1/8 th inch? 1/16 th? Everything will be trial and error, for me, it seems.
It all takes practice but the width of a quarter is a great place to start for off-contact! You should join us for an in-person two day class! scrnprntl.ink/SPE
Good morning, @Nathan Judds. It will. However, please keep in mind that the pallet it comes with is 16x16. So you may be limited on how large your image can be by pallet size comparative to the screens. you could go with a larger pallet though. Hope that helps.
Hi! At the 21 minute mark you see a blank screen being used to help smooth out the shirt fibers that are sticking up through the white base. You can see this in use and described better in the video for printing white ink with a smoothing screen: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dNXuo9yAyFk.html
lol, the naked truth is, if you've registered screens over 2 years alone you wouldn't need artwork to register 3 colour design unless its a 6 -8 colour point registration?
Hey, What's up, Chuck? Everyone has to start somewhere. Some printers need to start with something like this due to budget or maybe they are just printing on the hobby level. THat's what this press is designed for. Maybe they don't even know if they know if they like screen printing yet. While i agree with you (a little) that i would want to invest a little more for a Riley 300 or 350, that's not everyone's scenario, man. Have a great rest of your week, Chuck. Happy Printing.
It's an instructional video, so it's not meant to be done at 100mph. If he did it at the speed he'd likely do it at when working on his own products, people new to the game would miss the steps. And people like you would then bitch that he's too quick. Sort it out 👎🏻
