RIM JOIST / SILL; REPLACEMENT (CONCRETE STEPS/PORCH ENT./ EP#2) 

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! If you approach it one small piece at a time it will be more manageable and feel less overwhelming. Be safe and ensure everything is properly supported during the process. You can do it! Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! Yes, I have heard of others discussing a foam membrane. It sounds like a good idea! Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on the repair and thanks for watching! 👍😁

Hi Chet! The video is available on the channel. I don't know if I mention it in the video, but they make special pre made wraps / flashing pans for under the door threshold. They are ideal. I used a different approach to avoid removing the door. Thanks for watching! Cheers 👍😁

Bummer..... More than double the repair required in this video. Decks are a pretty common problem area for several houses. People just slap a ledger board on the house and let'er rot. Best of luck on the repair! 👍😁

Thank you! I'm happy when my videos are helpful to others. I hope your repair goes well and thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks for watching! Happy Holidays 👍😁

Thank you and thanks for watching! I'm shooting for new videos every Wednesday. Not all carpentry type work, but similar DIY repairs / mechanics 👍😁

Haha I didn't catch that until now! The old tar was some super nasty stuff 🤢. Thanks for watching! Cheers, 👍😁

Excellent! If you tackle it one piece at a time anything is possible. I recommend installing the deck free floating; ie without attaching it directly to the house with a ledger board. This is the best way to reduce water intrusion from deck installations (in my opinion). Thanks for watching and congratulations on your new home! 👍😁

Haha... It's doesn't destroy your skin like other solvents. Pro tip you can use it on 'most' vehicles to remove tar without damaging the paint. Be sure to spot test. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! I appreciate you taking time to watch and share. Cheers 👍😁

Thank you! Thanks for watching. Cheers 👍😁

Welcome! Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! 👍😁

Good idea! I probably would still install supports just out of extra redundancy/paranoia, but this could work! Thanks for sharing and watching. Cheers, 👍😁

Sorry for the delayed response. I thought I replied to your message already, but must have fat fingered the submit button. If you are concerned about the joists moving I recommend affixing them together. You could add short 2x4 sections in between the joists to stiffen them and to hold orientation and or you could place a scrap 2x4 or 2x6 directly on the bottoms of the joists as a temporary position holder. If you are interested in renting a jackhammer check out my video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YUzTGLIG5r4.html). I purchased a cheap jackhammer and use it to demo an old concrete foundation. It was actually cheaper than the rental fee and now I have it around should the need arise. Please support your house safely and cautiously. Cheers,

Lots of builders fail to flash in the deck correctly. I prefer omitting the ledger board and spacing the deck slightly away from the house. It's a little more expensive, but provides a space for the water to drain. This is definitely a time consuming project! Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁

Thanks! Oddly enough when I originally created this video I thought it was going to flop. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

You are welcome! Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repair. 👍😁

You are welcome! Check out some of my other videos. I believe I dismantled my concrete pad in one. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repairs! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder will do. Thank you

Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! Haha......One of the best tools I have ever owned! Thanks for watching 👍😁

I am happy my project videos are helping others! You can do it! Please ensure to lift and support your floor joists safely. Typically a poorly flashed in door will cause water intrusion around door thresholds. Happy DIY'ing! Thanks for watching. 👍😁

@@FlatThunder there is no flashing around the whole house. Surprised it isn't much worse.

I am guessing it is an old house. On my repair project I used tar paper to flash in around the threshold along with tar sealant. I think Aluminum is a better option. If you are replacing the entry door too, they have other options. I have seen (but not used) rubber membranes and aluminum caps people install before setting the door. Cheers, 👍

I think that grace ice and water shield would work for flashing it's self sealing made for roofs and around window...

Take your time, think methodically, support it safely and you will succeed! Attaching deck ledger boards incorrectly without the correct flashing is a common cause of rot. Even when they are installed correctly it is a leak point. I installed our front deck free standing without a ledger to avoid having an additional (potential) leak point. Thanks for watching and good luck with the repair! 👍😁

Welcome! Thanks for watching 👍😁

Thanks! I am happy to check that one off my to do list. Thanks for watching 👍😁

Thank you! I wish you the best in your repair project! Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! Improper flashing and improper deck installation is a common issue. I opted to mount my deck free standing next to the house instead of installing a ledger board. This removes a leak point and gives the water a place to go that's not directed into the house. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repairs! 👍😁

Is the deck attached or just butted up against it? Our deck is butted up against house, but not attached but I worry about this issue

I just had the deck redone because there was no way to look at the band joist or the sill plate damage until the deck was cleared from the outside wall. I had one contractor do it all. They removed the old deck and found that the ledger board was slapped on the wall with no flashing, and the clowns that built it had used wrong fasteners on the ledger board as well. So water was getting into the foundation each time it rained. To add insult to injury, we found that the main support pillars of the deck were simply set inside 4" hole with no concrete! So I had to get new support pillars which were properly buried 12-18" deep and concrete poured into it. It was a disaster. I noticed that some sections of the sill plate were soft, including the joists, but overall, it was not at a point where the sill plate had to be replaced. Considering the enormous cost of lifting the joists from the inside to put a new sill plate (the inside of the basement was finished and that meant cutting drywall etc), the builder affixed sections of solid board against the old joists to create a strong support to which they properly screwed the new ledger board. I took the time to block each band joist cavity with a 2" foam board and spray foamed around it to create an air seal before they put the new ledger board on it. They then installed a metal flashing that went under the vertical framing of the house and over the ledger board so no water would go into the band joists. The framing of the deck was constructed over the flashing. I also used joist tape along the length of the deck support framing to prevent rot. Once the new deck was built, they installed the proper j-channels (mine has vinyl siding) and sealed all contact points along the outside framing. This should fix the water incursion. I am glad I decided to take the plunge to address this because it would have proven costlier the longer I waited. I hope your situation is better than mine and wish you the best.

@@MrSoulMonk it's crazy how builders can overlook simple flashing..... They must get away with it because the damage takes time to show up. Happy you got everything repaired and fixed up! I opted to leave my deck free standing next to the house without a ledger board. It has a gap of ~1" give or take. 👍😁

@@youknow1334 my deck install has a gap of approximately 1" in between the house and the deck. No ledger board required. Thanks for watching 👍😁

It creates an extra layer that 'helps' reduce water intrusion. Mortar is more dense than traditional concrete blocks. The more dense material makes it more difficult for water to find its way through. Essentially it makes a more complicated maze water must work through to reach the inner cavities of the blocks and your basement. It may have other benefits. I forget all the specifics, but it is the method I used around my entire foundation. It works well! Thanks for watching and Merry Christmas! 👍😁

Grabs bigger hammer 🤣.... Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! No worries, I dug them out. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! I'd be afraid to see a full blown contractor's quote on this job. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks Tiffany! They were homemade from another project. You can make some or purchase adjustable basement support jacks. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Good tip! I don't think mine were nailed. The sill plate slide out real nice! Thanks for watching 👍😁

Hi Dan! Thanks! I don't remember if I talk about it in this video or the video of me removing the concrete pad. My best guess is the original builders planned on making it a root cellar accessible from the basement, but never installed an access door. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! I think the building materials shifted towards wood to save on construction costs. I think my house was actually a kit house from the 1950's. The floor joists have stenciled names on them like, 'front floor joist'. I hope you have a good holiday season. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

You would need to seal and properly insulate it but there is one building material that will last many lifetimes.........Solid gold. The only drawback is the price and the human termites(thieves) it would attract. Imagine how big of a footing you would need for that foundation lol. Best wishes from the U.S.

Yep when I came to the USA from Britain the houses in many areas seemed to be more flimsy than my old garden shed…. They rot, sag, blow away and burn with a vengeance…. Why are they not more solid?

You have a great attention to detail! Yes, I saved them from the pit. Thank you for letting me know and thanks for watching 👍😁

Thanks! If the rim joist is perpendicular to the floor joists, as shown in the video, you can probably replace it without supporting the floor. The main reason i added jacks to mine was to replace the sill plate. However, adding floor supports would be the safest solution regardless of the operation. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thank you for your kind words! I am happy my videos are informative and helpful to other's in need of information. This one is a huge hit on YT! I think the subject matter / need for repair is common among wood frame construction homes. Thank you for watching! Cheers 👍😁

Sorry I just noticed I did not tell you about the pry bar. It is awesome! It is a Gearwrench branded telescopic prybar. I purchased my off Amazon after seeing a Millwright use one on a jobsite! Here is a link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015015H6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@FlatThunderwould this be the same approach for a mobile home. No block foundation. The sill/bottom plate rests on 2x6 joists. We have a quite a few spots of bottom/still and rim that are rotten.

@@youknow1334 I'm not overly familiar with this type of construction, but in general the process should be similar; safely support the joists/wall and repair the damaged sill / rim joist. The key to the repair is learning why water was getting into the damaged spots and repairing it to prevent damage again. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder I think it’s because the sheathing, house wrap and siding *stopped short of the sill plate. Windows do not leak, we have block pier foundation and block skirting which is fully encapsulated with a dehumidifier. Re just removed gutter in that one area to see if that was culprit but it did not change circumstance. Roof looks good and no stains on ceiling. At a loss here other than what I first suggested as possible cause. Brought in many *pros* to no avail.

You have to be careful when installing treated boards covered in flashing & other coverings. Sometimes wrapping treated wood will encourage them to rot. Treated boards also tend to shrink and move a lot. The replacement boards installed were yellow pine. It's stronger than your traditional white pine. Thanks for watching! Cheers, 👍😁

How much does a job comparable to this cost?

Yes, I think a sealer is a good idea! I applied 100% silicone caulk at the interface between the block and the sill plate on the exterior of the house. I didn't install before because I would have pushed it all out when sliding in the board. Thanks for watching 👍😁

If you do not support the joists they will drop on the top of the blocks. I suppose if the bad section only spans a couple joist it might be possible to replace without jacking. Maybe slide the new sill in as the old one is sliding out (ie don't remove the old sill until starting the new one in). However I would recommend supporting them from underneath. It doesn't need to be raised, but more so supported in it's current position. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thanks! In the short section I replaced only one anchor was removed. It is only sitting on the foundation in this area. In hindsight I should have installed a couple Tapcon concrete screws thru the sill plate before installing the rim joist. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Yikes a corner would complicate things a little. Just take it one piece at a time ensuring to properly support the foundation and not make significant changes in its elevation. It could complicate things and it crack drywall upstairs. Thanks for watching and keep on chipping away at your project! Cheers 👍😁

Yes sir, they are vicious little guys. Thanks for watching and happy Saturday! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder Crazy bugs they are agreed

Concrete pads and decks can drive moisture into homes if not setup correctly. Double check the method of flashing around your new door install. Moisture can find its way in at the door too. They sell special flashing caps for door thresholds that look promising, though I never used one. Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁

@FlatThunder I taped around my rough opening even went down to bottom of my rim joist and seal plate for the hell of it. Building a deck in the spring until then we use the side door

I would recommend it. The construction shown in the video has the rim joist installed in between the upper floor sheathing and on top of the sill plate. Decks encourage rot when not installed properly. Improper flashing at the ledger board is a common mistake. I opted to install the deck free standing without a ledger board. This allows any moisture to drain without going into the house. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

I've never tried Dawn on tar before, but I'll have to give it a shot. I think Dawn is great at removing oil, grease and grime. It's my go to for removing oil and grease stains from clothing. Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁

Wow.... Some repairs are sketchy at best, let's just shove this rock or brick in here! I think I would try to repair it by building a second support structure inset from the existing unit, leaving the existing block/rock, building a new block or concrete support structure, and stub out joist under the old section for support (if possible). All the dirt needs to be removed from around the foundation and floor. To accommodate what is there I would dig a footer drain around it and try to adjust the main grad of the yard away from the house. That is my make shift idea. To correctly repair it the whole thing needs excavated out with a traditional foundation installed and proper grading around the house and or raised if necessary. Thanks for watching and Happy Thanksgiving! 👍😁

Not a bad idea! I have an extra external sump pump pit I installed on the front corner of the house during the foundation repair. The bottom of the pit has footer tile and the rock allows all the water to drain into the footer tile faster than dirt or soil. If you dump a bottle of water in the gravel it will be in the pit faster than you could get into the basement to check. You are right proper drainage is crucial to maintaining a good foundation. Thanks for watching and sharing! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder thanks for the reply

No pan or flashing was present on the door. The concrete pad in front of the door was pushing a ton of water back into the siding damaging it much wider than the door.

No I do not think it was cedar. I could be wrong, but the material seemed much harder than Cedar. It was damaged enough to notice, but not nearly as bad as the room joist. Thanks for watching 👍😁

If the floor isn't sagging I would trim a small amount off of the rim joist to make for a snug fit. Double check before trimming to ensure something else isn't hanging it up; obscure nail / object or a warped board. Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair! It sounds like you're on the home stretch! 👍😁

I did not install a foam barrier. I replaced it as per the original; directly on top of the solid block course. What does the barrier do?

@@FlatThunder it is meant to prevent termites from accessing the wood from a concrete crack.

@@latestartinvestor2102 I did not know about the foam layer before our conversation. Thank you for sharing this information. You learn something new everyday. 👍😁

@@FlatThunder I know what you mean brother. I am right there with you

@@latestartinvestor2102 and also prevent moisture from concrete to penetrate wood as concrete wicks water and is always expelling water.

Thanks! I have yet to tackle this project. Hopefully I do not have to anytime soon, but I did just take a look at my sill plate. I think I would notch the existing sill plate on the interior, install supports on top of the blocks directly below the wall cavity (but inside the basement / next to the rim joist), continue with the repair similar to the video, section or notch the replacement sill plate to miss the supports, and the last step (after the new sill & rim joist are installed) remove the supports / fill in the notches in the sill plate. Generally it should be the same repair, but with a different support system. I'd try to get a 4x4 or a small piece of steel in place with short jack bolts down to the foundation. Maybe get away with a support jack bolt every 4'? It depends on how heavy duty the support bar versus the weight of the wall. Lift safely and cautiously. You should be able to tell it's adequatingly supported before removing the old joist. Thank you for watching and good luck with your project. 👍😁

Just to make sure I'm not confused, did you mean "Parallel instead of Perpendicular" in your question. It looks like the floor joists in this video are Perpendicular to the Rim Joist on top of the Sill plate.

Thank you so much for the Video Flat Thunder. Your work will really help me with the project I need to do for a friend. Problem - rotten sill plate and Rim Joist where Rim Joist is parallel to the other joists unlike the example in your video. Could be 2 small, 2' or 3' foot sections or one long 8 - 10 ft section needing replacement. I won't know until I do some more de-construction at their place and pull the exterior siding off. Here are the specs: 35 yr old house, 2 story with 8' ceilings in the basement, the 1st and the 2nd floor. Basement not finished. Problem area close to one corner of the house. Source of problem appears to be two or three fold. 1st - hot and cold copper water pipes running vertical from basement to 2nd floor in stud cavity (exterior wall - in climate with real winters & hot summers) that at one time had a leak that traveled/accumulated at the first floor decking/basement cieling 90 degree turn. This appears to be the source of the original problem. The next stud over is the start of framing for a "french door" 5' wide 2 panel porch door with one door panel static and the other door panel hinged, porch door is original. The moisture collecting in this area could also be from 33 years of "sweat condensation" on the pipes AND 2nd issue - moisture from the water pipe problem may have encouraged intrusion from the outside by insects. There is daylight visible in the worse spot when looking out from the basement just like your video but it's just one spot about the size of a golf ball however the rot is spread out at least 2 or 3 feet and possibly up to 10 feet. Just before I got the house 5 yrs ago, the previous owner put a small ground level deck on the house, under the "french door" where no deck or steps down had ever been built or so he said. The 8 x 10 deck sits on blocks and is not attached to the house but sits right up against the siding. This has obviously held in a lot of moisture over the last 5 years and contributed to the rot from the outside. The foundation/basement walls are poured and the next joist, parallel to the Rim Joist is 3.5" from the inside of the foundation wall (leaving little room to work from the inside) and it is 10.5" from the Rim Joist (I can't tell yet if there are two Rim Joists sandwiched together giving a 3" thickness or just one Rim Joist at 1.5" which seems a bit thin with 2 x 6 walls?) In the two worst spots I can see from the basement the OSB decking on the first floor is rotted too so I don't yet know if the "sill plate" for the 2 x 6 stud wall above the OSB decking is also rotted until I dig in further. There is rot in the interior framing of the "french door" where the vertical framing meets the door sill. I understand your reply to WookaBounce above who I believe has the same set up that I do (Rim Joist parallel to remainder of floor joists...even though he said "perpendicular" and I think your reply to him assumed the same. I understand the first half of your reply to him re: adding vertical support blocks from the Sill plate where intact otherwise the concrete foundation to the first floor decking above it and then removing when job completed. Inserting these support blocks will be challenging due to the first interior joist being just 3.5" away from the concrete wall along with the bottom of the joist and the top of the Sill plate being flush. Any blocking added from the inside will have to be fitted by hand, no hammers or levers or tools can be inserted to assist due to the confined work area so in effect they will be "catch blocks" if the wall sags 1/16th or 1/8th inch. In order to install "support blocks" slightly oversized and hammered in with a mini-sledge, it will have to be from the exterior requiring a lot of excavating of Sill and Rim Joist first, in that narrow area before hammering them into position....unless you have any other ideas. See Part II below, RU-vid limits size of comment.

Part ll: The second part of your reply to WookaBounce regarding a "support system" re: "get a 4x4 or a small piece of steel in place with short jack bolts down to the foundation" I can't picture or don't understand. Can you give any more detail on how this is set up. I assume it is from the outside/exterior of the house. I looked up Jack bolts and only got info on them being hydraulic driven?...is that right?...sounds like very specialized equipment but I can't find any details on it. If you can try to describe this "system" in a little more detail I'd really appreciate it or reference me to another video or website that shows the system and the jack bolts so I can visualize them and maybe figure out how they are integrated into the system. Thanks so much ahead of time for sharing your mechanical engineering expertise.!!!!

@@FlatThunder Hello FlatThuder - I did not directly " reply" to your msg so you may not have been directly notified of activity on this video. That is the purpose of this reply. Please see my questions below for my situation. The 2 - comment question is actually pretty short and concise unlike the setup with the details describing my situation. thanks in advance for reading through it all and responding.

I wish I got paid for this repair! Engineer by day and 'Mr. Fix All' in the evenings. Thanks for watching Donald! Have a great evening. 👍😁

They were discolored a little, but not rotten. If yours are damaged remove the rotten part and add in a new piece. I'd probably screw a new piece on the side of the original (overlap for a more solid attachment). Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Not sure of the specific question, but the construction seems okay to me other than the lack of flashing. Thanks for watching 👍😁

The structure in the basement supports the house. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Hello, the temporary lifting supports are just sitting on the concrete floor. They are not bolted or fixed in place. The steel c channel beams are thru bolted; one on each side with 3/4-10 threaded rod squeezing the two sections together. Check out the earlier short narrative on the foundation repair. It shows the process with pictures and an explanation. Thanks for watching 👍😁

I did not add a sill bolt back in during the video. It probably would be a good idea. Thanks for watching 👍😁

Hi! I would support the joist next to the wall, but also support it directly above the basement wall in multiple places (depending on the length of the section being replaced). I would notch the old sill plate to allow for small supports to be installed. If you have room you could build supports with offset feet to avoid notching. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repair. Work safely! 👍😁

Could I put blocking between the rim and next joist then jack up the blocking ? I think that would work but then what to do when I need to replace rim

@@TheJudgeJuryExecutioner I think I see what you are saying. This is where the notching of the sill plate would be required. I would side in a steel structure, or rigid member, capable of supporting the wall yet shorter than your joists. Then I would support the member by noticing the sill plate and installing vertical supports. Small homenade jack screws would work. This would facilitate fewer support pieces and notches in the sill plate. I'd shoot for every 4-6 feet in the supports. This depends on the rigidity of the support. Many different ways to support it. Just make sure it's supported properly before removing rim joist.

Here is a comparable tool with similar power ratings and features: amzn.to/4bxltbL I think the model used in the video might be obsolete now. Lots of manufacturers make different models, pay attention to the amperage / power ratings. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Nevermind must have been the angle. Good work man

The sill plate I installed did have a 'little wang' in it. I forget exactly how it was bowed, but I did have to shim the furring strip / tack strip for the siding to make it all happy! Thanks for watching 👍😁

Haha it makes me laugh now, but mid process I was like 'are you kidding me right now?'. Time for a bigger a hammer! I had to include it for funsies. Thanks for watching and happy New Year! 👍😁

Any general contractor should be able to assist you, but I would opt for a qualified handy man or someone specializing in foundation repair. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the repair! 👍😁

I don't know how I lived without one! I need to get her back in the shop for more improvements / upgrades. Awesome!!! Thanks for watching 👍😁

Haha....I hear that! Literally and figuratively. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Thank you for your kind words. I am a mechanical engineer. Thanks for watching 👍😁

I love diy! That's a pretty big project. 👍

Thanks! I just started the RU-vid channel this year. I wish I captured video of the basement foundation repair. It was quite the process. I have a narration video posted, but it doesn't do it justice. I also replaced all the fascia, soffit and gutters on the house last year. That too would have made for a good how to video series. I often learn as I go and frequently consult RU-vid for instructional help. Its a great resource for do it yourself'ers!

I don't think there is anything more gratifying, then a completed diy project.

Look closer in the video. I show the floor supports at one point in the video. Mine was jacked up and supported in the basement. It was a 6x6 with homemade screw jacks. Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder Lol duh, must have missed that part

@@FlatThunder btw what's that pry bar you're using to rip out the rotted board? That looks handy.

@@arkanoiddude Gear wrench 33" Extendable indexing pry bar - 82220. It is an awesome pry bar. It's more for mechanics work, but I use it on everything! Great tool I highly recommend getting one 👍

@@FlatThunder Oh nice...I'm actually an industrial mechanic by trade, but I mostly use the "screwdriver-style" pry bars at work. That thing looks awesome for ripping boards out.

Family job that wasn't billed out. If I had to guess $2200 - $2800 labor. Purely a guess on my part. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Haha it's an acquired taste, but I prefer it in my beard over PB blaster. 🙄

Thanks! This was a family job that wasn't billed out. If I had to guess $1800 - $2200 labor. Like most things I do, I'm no professional, just a guy with some tools. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Sometimes I get help, but this particular project was completed solo. Thanks for watching and happy New Year! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder great work!! I have a similar issue except my damage is a result of termites. And just replacing 10ft of rim joist. Along with 3 floor joists. I have no help will be solo so it was great to see you did it on your own! You may have said it in the video, but how long did it take you to do that project and were you off every day to work on it? Or was it all done on weekends? Thanks

@@scotts1111 Thanks! Did you watch the video of me removing the concrete pad/steps? I think I started removing the old pad the same day as the rim joist/sill plate replacement. The whole process of replacing the old rim joist & sill plate was completed in a single day. Pressuring washing, tuck pointing, taring, installing tar paper flashing and siding replacement took additional days. I think my entire process took about 3-4 days. This is mostly due to pressure washing dry time, time for the mortar to cure and being burnt out. The hardest part you will have is lifting the support beam and new joists in position solo. I used ratchet straps to help lift my 6x6 support in position; click a little on one end then move to the other end, repeat. You might want to see if you can get a helper if you're replacing long joist sections. Its doable solo, but easier and faster with an extra set of hands. Lift safely and carefully, best wishes on your project! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder I have not seen the other videos but I will be sure to watch. Thanks for you reply. Happy New Year!

Haha I was seriously contemplating it....I ran out of daylight fast that day.

Yes, water damage is often overlooked by builders / construction teams until major damage occurs. Likely because it takes a while to damage wood with water intrusion.

I only replaced the damaged section. I could have replaced the full span, but would have required additional temporary supports. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Nice catch! I salvaged them before the next load. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

Intrigued but never tried one in practice. I don't truck point joints very often.

Great information! I think I have heard it called 'parge' coating previously. I could be wrong on the spelling. The wing walls make zero sense to me in this build. I previously removed the, the same setup, at the rear of the house. The old owners were nice enough to fill it with old garbage including a whole roll of carpet. I wish I could have shown the whole process of the wall straightening. The entire foundation was straightened and repaired previously. It was a real bear of a job. Thank you for your recommendations and thanks for watching 👍😁.

@Alexander Di Cintio Hi Alex! It sounds like quite the project. I do have videos on a cinder block wall that was caving in, but they are short and after the job was complete. It shows the extent of how much we corrected a wall via pictures and narration. Check it out they might offer some help. I am guessing this house is old enough that it is limestone or some other natural rock/block wall? If so those might be an entirely different beast. You'd be surprised how / easy it is to correct a wall once the neighboring dirt is excavated. If it can be puahed back into place tuck pointing all the joints should be sufficient. Providing adequate drainage around the foundation is critical. I back filled my entire foundation with gravel. It drains super fast! Best of luck on the repair and thanks for watching 👍😁

Haha, yup critter catcher, until you realize you're related.....Then the larger nosier hammer enters the equation. 🙄

Haha sometimes they pick the worst moments to start complaining

'Joyce, she died thirty years ago' ..... Christmas Vacation 🤣

Sounds like a losing combination. You might need a moat to maintain the grade and keep your sill above grade. I recommend adjusting the entire grade next to your foundation if at all possible. If nothing else it sounds like a fun excavating project. Post a video of your repair. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

I heard that!!!! Note my solution was a bigger hammer 🔨. Thanks for watching 👍😁

@@FlatThunder i saw that. It was a nice touch. Thats why I liked and subscribed lol

Haha.... Thanks for watching! 👍😁

It was an interesting situation.... Next step fetch a bigger hammer! Thanks for watching! 👍😁

@@FlatThunder LOL goodman!

Haha Yes! This outta take care of things! 🤣. Thanks for watching! 👍😁

I agree it is important to flash in all exterior protrusions on your house! Thanks for watching! 👍😁