Additionally, it's an advantage if you can find a spot to do this that is uphill. On ramps alongside a retaining wall are ideal. The uphill grade provides extra load and sustains the run for longer. The retaining wall allows you to hear knock much better, so you can abort the run if you start to hear some rattle the ecu isn't yet calibrated to correct...
It can be difficult to find a hill with a 100% perfectly consistent gradient. Modulations in the gradient will show up in your data logs as it will alter your load. Using the technique of left foot braking on flat ground is more than likely going to give you more consistency and is what Andre recommends - Taz.
It should also be noted you should be using audio knock detection. We 100% do not recommend relying on just your ears and echos from retaining walls. You are on the right track though and you are welcome to tune however you wish, this is just not a technique we advocate given the limitations - Taz. www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/dont-waste-your-time-listening-for-knock/
Do a full pull in 4th or 5th gear on open/public roads whilst adhering to the local speed limits hahaha... I wish I lived in Germany like you obviously do :-)
Also, you can use the brakes to add load to the engine during a pull - just the same way the better dynos do. Takes a little getting used to, to be able to modulate the brakes, but is very effective. Just be aware it'll obviously put some wear/tear on the brakes, and be uber careful not to do it too much at a time, because this will heat up your brakes very quickly!! Super helpful when a dyno isn't readily available. You can also use this technique to create a steady-state load/speed condition for tuning an individual cell in your maps. Again, just be mindful of how much heat you're putting into the brakes.
You won't left foot brake for the full power tuning demonstrated, but when trying to 'steady state' tune, yes, this is a technique we recommend =) If automatic, you also need to be mindful of your transmission temp - Taz.
Also, the electronic throttle control of some newer cars will drop the throttle out when it see's the brakes and throttle simultaneously for more than a second or two. Chryslers definitely do.
Back in the day, we had a crazy ammount of vmax races for 10 minutes or more on full wot into top speed, most were ep3 type r, on these the ones going significatly faster than the rest, with the exact same mods, were the ones that were road tuned, even the same tuner that only did the tune on the dyno wouldn't just perform as well, might had been because everyone had a cai or a bumper ram air and road was literally the only way to do it
I'm doing this exercise right now with my MegaSquirt right now💪 i have a question for the HPA team... How do you tune the 6th gear cruising areas of the VE map? I find that area of the map is either shared or closely shared with the idle numbers of the map. Thanks - Pantyeatr1
hmmm, take it that the engine has to have some sort of pre-tune before performing such a pull. Couldn't it end bad if you're tuning from a base map and have to do a full pull
Hey Bjørn, yes you are correct, you should NEVER start with full power tuning even though terrifyingly many tuners do to get the HP figure they're starting with. Steady-state tuning should be done beforehand and then you start with sweeping runs before moving higher and higher into the rev range till you're at your max RPM =) - Taz.
This lesson shows exactly that and much more better than I could ever explain in a comment here. Hope you enjoy it, worth the watch: www.hpacademy.com/reflashing-using-hp-tuners?
I'm running aem infinity on my Honda s2000 I cant seem to get the lambda to show up on the log but my the ecu is using it for feedback and it is working just not showing up on my log
Does the gap on a spark plug affect torque/power? Copper plugs or iridium plugs or platinum plugs? (Gen 3 ls1 with bolt on mods) what gap should i be using?
more boost requires more voltage to jump the spark gap, or a smaller gap. might advance timing a bit with smaller gap. my car idles better with a .022 gap I like copper because I don't care how long they last and I have had problem with platinum plugs breaking and dropping platinum into the cylinder. I think Platinum plugs are marketing BS IMO.
@@woodzy575 Why would you advance timing due to spark plug gap ? Knock might be why your Platinum plugs are dropping into the cylinder . Especially if your boosted . Not to mention using the right heat range (7 - 10) depending on level of boost .
Smaller gap advances timing a little bit. My platinum problems were on different NA cars, my work truck had Bosch platinums and it was having trouble starting. Pulled the plugs and one on the plugs was missing an electrode, I said no more. I don't thinks it's worth the risk just to have a spark plug last 60 000 miles.
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