Robland X 31 Riving Knife

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The Robland X-31 riving knife can be hard to come by so this is a video of altering a Biesemeyer 78-965 thin kerf and 78-967 medium to thick kerf riving knife for use in the X31. The holes in the knife were drilled so that the knife sits approximately 5/16” below the top of the blade. If you wish your knife to be higher adjust the holes accordingly. The templates for the riving knives can be found at groups.io/g/ro...
Caution should be taken when using power equipment or tools and all recommended safety precautions from the tool or equipment manufacture should be utilized.
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Опубликовано:

7 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 4

@kenhugen285 Год назад

I wanted to thank you for the riving knife. I had trouble finding the knife but finally got one. I ended up with the 965. Last spring I couldn’t get anything. I found two places that had them for $78 but then they canceled the order because they didn’t actually have them. Your video was invaluable to me since the previous owner of my machine removed the factory riving knife and installed one of the mounting blocks off by 90 degrees. After consulting your video a few times I moved the retaining Allen screws 9socket head screws that sit in the machined grooves) to the correct holes and then it was smooth sailing. My holes drilled easy through the riving knife and my Milwaukee M12 3” cut off saw cut the tail off and cleaned the arch like butter! I was shocked! No sweat cutting the back side either. After seeing your Milwaukee metal band saw working hard on it, I thought I was in for a long afternoon with my little Milwaukee. But the good lord gave me brake! Next is adding the Incra. I purchased the HD not the SE. It has a different miter adapter which has an adjuster that pushes the fence further from the mount bolt by 3/8”. No big deal, but the table mount red scale will need adjusting. I’m also considering installing a male reducing bushing from the 1/2” (or what ever metric size) to a smaller 1/4’ 0r #8 metric. My fence miter rail is 3/4” and it looks like the mount hole in the sliding table is 5/8”. I noticed in your video there is a helicoil in your hole. Is that a reducing helicoil? I’d be fine with that as well. It’s been a busy year, I bough the end mill you recommended, but never got a router. Picked up a Bosch 1617 combo from Acme and it will be in next week. I’m not a metal worker, done a few things Andre stand a little, but nothing like you. Do I need the 1/4” angle and bar, or could I use something lighter. I don’t gave a torch or plasma cutter. Thanks again! It’s guys like you that make this world great. I watch RU-vidrs like you all the time and fix and install things. Last June I replaced my 28 year olde 5 Ton HVAC system thanks to amazing guys like you on youtube! Sorry to mix details from 2 of your videos, but I think you get it. God bless you and your family! Thank You! If your ever in N Cal, let me know, I’ll buy you a nice dinner!

@davidpape9726 Год назад

Thank you fior the kind words. You could use aluminium angle or bar if you wanted to. It would be much easier to work with. The piece is just used to hold the fence 3/8" x 3/4" bar true with the socket head cap screws. The only reason I used a Heli-coil in the table where the hold down bar threads in was because Metric bolts were non-existant in east Texas where I am without driving a long distance at the time. I would have much perferred to have left it metric but needed a longer threaded stud coming out the bottom of the hold down bar. I ended up cutting off the stud from the round bar and drilling then tapping to 1/2" -13. I have a stud sticking out of the bar about 1 1/2" long. I use a 3/8" thick nylon bushing on top of the miter gauge with a stainless washer on top.