Roccat Vulcan TKL Mod - Lube, Tape & Foam Mods, Soldering (ASMR-ish) 

Samw

fr

@@Evgeni491 You could do with 240-300 degrees I believe, yet myself I was less careful and was doing quick touch ups under 400 degrees

I was removing them by hand, due to their shape it was easy enough to start from corners and pinch them out one by one, but you of course you the keycap puller instead.

Hi John, metallic sound might come from 2 things : baseplate, switch springs. You can determine your specific root by finding the area or buttons that trigger this sound. Then, press the selected switch, move finger to the corner of the switch while still holding it pressed, and release the finger to the side to actuate the harsh quick switch movement. Repeat it few times and see if the sound you hear is the one you found before - then it's the spring. You can easily lube the switches with some silicone/vaseline lube or superlube pen, just be careful and spread it only on left right and up corners of the stem to not affect the electric contacts much. If you determine it's not the sound that bothers you, then yeah probably it's baseplate. In this case, I would suggest applying the tapemod and foam mods first, and if it's not enough then you'd need to unsolder the switches and put some dense non electrically conductive foam between baseplate and the main board.

@@ProArt18 I went ahead and did the tape mod unfortunately its the springs 😅

@@johntitor1237 I'm still glad you gave it a chance, now once you lube your switches you're well settled with 2 mods in a pocket ;)

@@ProArt18 yeah man, thanks for the help i appreciate it

Hi Bill, on the back - yeah, all of them, remember about the ones hidden under foots and under the central sticker. At least that many screws probably prevent plastic body to creek much :D

@@ProArt18 thanks for getting back at me boss.

for the fresh tape the chances to rip something are low, but yeah if the tape is old you might have to go slowly

for vulcan Pro you can remove all the switches as they're not soldered, and then lube one by one by putting liquidish lube via sides of the pin. If you use thick lube then it might not get into the spring without opening the whole switch. Just let them air dry for a day or so on a paper towel to prevent that the oil leaks on the optical sensors on the main board.

@@ProArt18 What tube of lube would you recommend?

@@beausabian905 Super Lube Pen might be a good starting point

@@ProArt18 thank you!

@@ProArt18 Do I just squeeze the lube inside the spring by pushing down the cross looking thing? Also what sides of the cross looking things to i apply the lube on?

All good, you can replace the switches if you proceed slowly. You need to make sure though that you have that little pump/syringe to get solder out of the holes. If you're at throwing it away I would give it a try - not much to lose.

Hello, unfortunately I don't have visibility over the capacitors you might need as a replacement.

Hi Jason, quickest way is to check with closest audio store, they will spot the size of the stem depending on where you are ;)

Hi, for this one I'm not sure, try to unscrew and see if the inside is somewhat similar, though these mods are pretty universal

@@ProArt18 Alright I’ll check that. Thanks :)

Hi! The 2 little plastic 🐾? you need to put something plastic like a credit card in between the feet and the case, then gently push towards the feet and it will disengage (that's why the feet have some empty slots on each side - to allow a bit of bending)

@@ProArt18 thank you so much!!

Place something thin like a plastic card or plastic prying tool between the case part and the leg. Gently twist the tool/card toward the leg and it should help displace it from the case - that's why there are little grooves on the inner part of the legs so to allow plastic holders to twist.

let me know if you need a quick youtube shorts guide on how to do it.

hmm, if you have the right screw size then maybe they're just seized. You could try to put some wd40 on a needle and touch screws with it, then let the oil sink a bit and tork again.

Yes, you can foam and tape mod it too. However, please if you want to lube your switches - get them out from the board, lube them, and let them dry over 48hrs sitting on their bottom side, the optical switches have holes on the bottom so you want to make sure no excessive lube leaks on the pcb and tape

So far in my research I found that you can replace the switches but you also need to replace keycaps in a lot of cases

@@ProArt18 Okay! I have a single faulty key, so I could live with one cap that's a little different. I just don't know how similar mechanical keyboard switches of different manufacturers are and if they might send a different signal in some way.

pasting here an existing comment for the similar question: "hmm, you removed hidden screws under the label (2) and under the bottom feets(1) and under the top feets(2)? In that case wiggle a plastic card between metal frame and plastic" bottom part and wiggle lightly until you get a click

Hi, first, I'd try applying a tape mod and some foam on the bottom without desoldering the switches. If then you feel it still needs improvement then go ahead and desolder the switches and put some non electrically conductive foam between baseplate and the main board

I cant get the base of, can you help me?

@@Czaplo_ let's try. You have screws under top removable foots and under bottom center feet, also under the center label you have two screws. If those and the rest are removed, try to squeeze a plastic card between plastic and metal plate on the side of the keyboard to wiggle and lift the plastic shell out

Ill try

But I have the pro version, does it also work?

look for hidden screws - under the feet and the stickers

It's a cheap desoldering pump and soldering iron, you can find them on amazon too, just be careful if you never soldered before - practice on some broken device first ;)

@@ProArt18 Allright thank you very much for your time

Hi Iffa, I try to apply equal pressure and force while pinching out the keycap with at least two fingers. If you never removed yours, first time they might feel like stuck but continue to apply that gentle pinching out force and you might succeed. In case you can try to wiggle them a bit while pinching. After the first time they became much friendlier, probably also because of the excess lube on the stems.

@@ProArt18 thank you!

@@ProArt18 Hey, i cracked my stabilizers from mey space bar while removing it... so i glued it with some idk, "usual-home-glue" back together, but on the spacebar it's self, so i havent tried to remove it tho because im scared of bracking it. How woud you trying to remove it, because i need to change my L key does not work so i have to copy paste it all the time. ... Thank you in advance

@@killjan8925 if I understand you correctly your "L" key malfunction. In this case, you'd need to disassemble the board and unsoldier the "L" key switch, then better to replace it. You can find some guidelines on how you could theoretically open that roccat ttc switch but it has a very weird pins so it's not too easy. I'd rather order another one switch of similar profile and soldier it into place. Please double check that you have mechanical switches and not optical ones. If your switch is not soldiered in place then it's optical - it means you can only replace it with another optical switch type.

@@ProArt18 Thank you for replying. I have the optical one and I have read that you cannot buy those switches from ROCCAT neither others, after a quick research. So I thought on replacing it with another 3 pin red transparent Switch. When I reset the Board via swarm Software, the L key is pressed continually till I press an different key. Then it stops and does not work anymore.

the pump/syringe? for the solder to come out from the whole - otherwise it stays attached.

hold the FN Key, re-press the HOME Key. In that Row, with the 6 Keys, you can actually activate/deactivate different Keyboard Features like GAME Mode and stuff. Cant remember what the HOME Key was used for. There are some hidden functions like putting the Windows Key to the FN Key and deactivating the Windows Key and stuff like that.

@@ALIENiAM Hey, thanks for the reply. I updated Swarm and deleting/reinstalling their software seems to have fixed it. I don't think it was something I accidentally changed. This LED was intense white ignoring all the RGB patterns. It was much brighter than the shift lock key when activated. Hope this helps someone.

Yes, in theory it's same exact stabilizers

It’s just a clip so pull gently on n both and they will come off

Hi! thank you for sharing your exp with durocks, sorry it didn't fit, let's see if anyone in this community found another set that fits!

Got one more question. I've got my TKL Pro for about 2 years now and lubed some of the stabilizers to reduce rattle. However I think most of the rattle noise actually comes from the stem that sits pretty loose in the housing (only for stabilizers). Do you notice any rattle for your space or enter key? I think the overall build is very solid but the stabilizers seems cheap. It's a pitty that they can't be replaced. @@ProArt18

@@nightmode8098 Totally with you on that, I'm trying to use thick lube and spread it s bit of the stems too, but not too much as then it will make weird squishing sounds

I will try to lube them again tomorrow for the space and enter as they rattle the most! Thank you@@ProArt18

Hi, the leg has a flexible piece on the sides where it connects to the board. You can place something plastic like a random shopping card in the space between the leg and the board, it should help tilt and pinch out the leg. Alternatively, you could you thin flat screwdriver instead of the plastic card, yet be careful not to scratch the pieces

Hi, no, this is non-pro version with mechanical switches

Thanks! I have it too, so I'll try it.

@@ああ-s2j5b Awesome, let the community know how it went, hope it will be an enjoyable mod!

Totally, my bad I didn't film before/after this time. With no mods keys are a bit scratchy which gives that sound like if you scorch one plastic pen again other, bottoming out is very stiff due to metal thick plate, the returning sound is plasticy and a bit hollow. Lubing gave the switches extra smoothness, foam brought some sound dampening and tape mod added that poppy/thhhhhocky sound. Lubing stabilizers also made them so much quieter and smooth though I'd admit they're also very good stock so don't feel pressure to desolder all just for the sake of lubing them but maybe try to lube them from outside with siringe or such.

it's a lovely meditative activity ;)

@@ProArt18 I Guess that makes sense. Some type of zen like activity ?

@@latinstuff1 exactly, it encompasses few of the key sensations too including auditive and tactile, while to refine those sensations it gives you enough challenge with all that modding so it keeps your curiosity going and in the same time tempers your feeling of rush, empowering you to focus on one thing at a time - a.k.a. meditation ^_^

@@ProArt18 yes I understand the concept of meditation, it's simply to be conscious and build awareness on a daily basis. whether you are fixing a car or cooking. just being present and aware. course it goes beyond that but that is the basic principle. ;)