I tried again but the epic tv code still says expired 😢. I need some new cams haha. Keep the videos coming though! Thanks! Can’t wait to get out and test these skills again soon
Hi Jez. Happy New Year. Hope you're enjoying Spain. Do you have a video on staying tangle free when moving as a three using indirect belay (ie not a guide plate). I always seem to get a half twist in the rope at each changeover which eventually leads to a belay ledge jig!)
Could you not clip both ropes in to the same quick draw when protecting the 2nd/3rd on the traverse? Rather than using a 2nd QD. Great video as always, I've learnt so much from you over the past few months 👌
Glad you’ve liked the videos! Yes you could, I’m just wary of a couple of things with that: 1. One person falls off - that means one rope rubs on the other, under load, which is a concern 2. It’s just a little harder to keep the ropes twist free cos when you glance back the ropes individual paths aren’t as clear 3. When the 2nd unclips their rope it’s easy to knock the other rope out as well. Hope that helps!
Hi Jez I'll make up qds with 2 slings/clipping points (short+long) and use those rather than doing it on the fly (usually!). Those super skinny 240 slings are great for belays
Maybe you wont reply cause an older video but worth a shot! In the example of switching leads, your leading first with blue and red. Red seconds then blue seconds and say blue wants to lead next. Is it not less faff for red to secure in with say a petzl connect then give blue their end of the red rope as thats the top of the pile? Then they can get the bottom end of the red rope from the original leader? I get at one point theyll only be attached with the connect but surely just the same as when say cleaning a sport route so if you do it right its safe
talking about swap leads: when you pass your blu rope to the new leader (who is so far attached to the red rope), your strand will be on the bottom of the bunch. any other more efficient andd quick method than reflake the blu rope?
Unless the route requires double ropes, I have done a bit of climbing with the third in the middle of a single rope here. Eight on a bight at the midpoint, biner to belay loop, good to go? Obviously the middle climber needs to reclip everything, especially on traverses! Also, especially the middle climber will want a lanyard for this.
Definitely! Can be a nice simple way of doing things if the terrain allows. Only thing I do differently is put an overhand on the bite, and rethread the bight through the seconds tie in points, and clip the and loop back with a crab. A bit bulky but just feels belt and braces :)
Great video as always! I assume a lanyard is used due to its dynamic properties, would it be super sketchy to use a sling if you don't have a lanyard? I'm aware of the danger of them having no stretch, I also realise it would put extra strain on the belay if fell on it.
11:03 In the "guide plate" situation as shown here (and in others videos I've seen) it always looks like the belay plate is too high up thus not providing the usual S shape braking, but only giving an upside down U shape zero braking effect. Shouldn't the plate be lower down, maybe on a sling?. I've never used this system, always used my belay loop (the clue is in the name??) so I'm trying to learn some more up to date methods.
Using a belay device in guide mode requires higher belays, the device locks in a different way to when using a regular belay device on your harness. The rope bites on itself instead of requiring a Z shape.
Climbing as a three seems pretty much as easy as with 2 there's just a few more things to think about so thanks for the concise video. I would do 2 singles too(don't have triples) or a single with a cowttail (alpine butterfly with long loop and clove hitch) You have 2 triples here which are probably super light and nice, I am trying to save the money and not buy triples. I multi pitch on a single 9.5 and was probably going to get another rope of the same spec for this application. I'll just treat them as doubles when leading or just tag one up. Have you done this, and is it fine to alternate clipping pieces like half ropes, or clip both like twins in this system? And should I expect extra drag from the extra weight of the singles? I'm sure people lead on two singles often I just don't know if I should just stick to the single or if the advantages of this system having each partner on their own single is better.
I'd normally treat each rope as a half and clip individual pieces - the trickiest bit is when there's a bit of a traverse, just requires a bit more thought.
All good stuff as we've come to expect but I think the concepts have reached that level of complexity where cutting in some stills or 3 second clips showing what you are talking about would be really valuable. I know if I start trying to visualise something unfamiliar, I unconsciously stop listening for a while.
Paul Johnson useful feedback for sure. Sometimes I will do that but I’m also of the opinion that these aren’t a replacement t for quality in person instruction so I don’t actually want them to be perfect. Don’t forget that pause and rewind button either!
Hey what is your orange jacket you have ? is it any good for hugging rocks ? Great videos btw, I'm on a roll but stop saying grab a nice drink at the beginnings, I feel like 5 coffees might be too much :o
