I always watch all of your video's, you explain in great detail. Now you can talk to the toaster oven company and make a deal with them for bulk. You already have the perfect prototype. Ask them to beef up the heating element. Great Job brother.
@@AdamWelchUK Since RU-vid, this allowed many people that would just forget about it, but there many people now that want to play along. I would love to start making proper DC to DC and AC to DC converters fully adjustable and Class D / AB Audio Amplifiers
Great job! Just keep monitoring the heat in that cavity over time. Maybe sit the SSR and PS on some heat resistant material just for extra heat isolation from the case.
@@AdamWelchUK Great project, Adam, and really nice permanent solution! I thought maybe a couple of strips of Scotch-brite pad under the SSD & PS would insulate them, non-flammable and is also non-conductive...? Just a thought. Thanks for all your videos for us makers!
@@AdamWelchUK I have had amazing luck with the little 40mm Noctua fans for quiet, just-needs-some-airflow cooling applications like this. I should be tossing one together with the new V2 board shortly, and *do* expect to be doing multiple runs back-to-back, so I think I'll toss one in. You definitely sold at least one of these boards for 'em. lol! Great vid, and mad props on checking the temps in that cavity. *high five* for rigorous testing.
I don’t know if you’ve seen my previous videos on this but I’ve found a layer or two of tin foil has been enough to get a reasonable heat profile out of this. I probably should insulate more - but quite like the fact I haven’t! You might recognise one of the projects I’ve built this oven for ;-) Cheers Stuart.
So I've just watched this little series and I must say I'm quite impressed with the quality of the outcome and how thorough you were with the process and showed the nitty-gritty throughout. (Who hasn't soldered something in backwards now and again; but a SMD IC? OUCH!!!) I do like through hole projects myself, but can see the need for SMD capacity for the hobbiest where smaller is sometimes the only way to go. Look at the Nano, for example. So much power, such a small form factor. Bravo, sir!
I love the idea of using the original mechanical timer as a safety. That's awesome. Maybe consider a re-settable thermal fuse as another safety vector? Strap that to the oven wall, so you don't burn your shed down running the oven during the summer!
You covered all of my skepticism with your extra temperature readings in that cavity. Well done, nice build. Hand nibbler pliers are a great little tool for working with sheet metal like this. I don't like the drill powered variety, but the pliers are awesome for cutting slots and square holes without distorting the surrounding metal. I always seem to have a dremel run away to create it's own abstract art at inopportune moments. You're obviously better at that tool than I am :-) -Jake
Hi Jake. Yeah the temperature rise in the cavity was surprisingly low. I was really pleased with the result. The dremel isn’t the best, but a quick go round with a small file sorted out the rougher edges. I was also safe in the knowledge that both sides would be covered up :-)
I'd put a toggle switch to turn the psu on/off. That way you don't have parasitic power usage while the unit isn't in use. Unless you don't have it plugged it in all the time, I suppose. And the size of your work shop. Nice looking setup either way 👍
Thanks. No I’ll be putting this back in it’s box on the shelf once I’ve finished with it. I haven’t the luxury of space to leave it out. I did consider needing a switch to turn off the PSU if I plug in a USB cable, but as it stands I can’t plug one in yet because of where it is situated!
Excellent work! I would worry a little about the SSR given the heatsinks I've needed to use with them in the past but your testing shows you're in fantastic shape it seems. Good show!
The controller really wants to be powered by 5V through the micro USB connector, even though most of the circuit is 3.3V. That way you get to use the resettable fuse that's on the 5V input. I am doing a similar build and ordered a 3.3V supply based on your video, but I've now ordered a 5V instead. Actually I don't know how yours works at all since according to the schematic the SSR outputs and buzzer are pulled up to 5V.
Thanks for the video, I m trying to use this v2 code on a arduino pro mini 3v3 and external oled etc.. But It seems does not work, the oled get stuck at the startup and the temperature reading say (Nan), I m sure the oled and the temperature k sensor are working.. Have you made some changes on the code? Thanks
Hi, nice work and nicely done!, seems like a very useful project, the ones I like. So, the schematic shows that the tiny reflow controller already has a 5v->3v3 regulator, no need for the ams1117, also, wrap a linear regulator sounds like a very bad idea. Cheers.
I should have looked at the schematic but assumed 3.3v was derived from the USB serial chip. I’ll check, thank you. Given that the AMS1111111117 is dropping only 1.7v at a pretty low current I’m not concerned about heat (and I’ve got plenty) but I will check the schematic and see if I can cut it out. Thanks again.
Pretty Dang Tidy set up Sir. Used those Cheapo SSR a number of times. Heat sinking and Thermo Paste is ESSENTIAL. Don't count on them being reliable over about half of the rated Amperage. LOL Typical Chines Ratings. I think they add a zero ?
It’s bolted to the chassis of the oven. I’m running this “25 amp” relay at 850 watts or 3.5amps. As you saw I checked the temperature when I ran a reflow - I hope I’ll be ok. Do you think I should reconsider?
@@AdamWelchUK I don;t see anything here of non interest, I wont mention names, but this guy has awesome project that beginners can do then gets hung up on LED lighting and Poundland teardown's for endless videos.
Why did you bother to use a 220v AC oven when you could have done it with ( Reflow BGA solder with a GU10 halogen light bulb ), then you could have used all that battery power you have
Hi Adam, thanks for the video. I just started my build today with exactly the same equipment. Hopefully, my Rocket Scream will be here on Thursday. Can you put the 3D print you made on Thingiverse so I can copy it with pride. Thank you.
This is where I have to admit making various version to make it fit and I can’t remember which one is which or which one I ended up using :-/ I’ll see what I can find...
@@AdamWelchUK Not to worry if you can't, designing in 360 is an enjoyable process anyway. Would you recommend cutting out the metal that was behind the thermostat and completely replacing it with something 3D printed? That would produce a flush fit, but I don't know if it's worth the effort. is there any chance your screen could fall out of the board behind it?
These are my simple 3d parts... www.tinkercad.com/things/icxfl9mtdMN As I think I showed I just drilled four holes for the screws and a slot for the screen connection. The corners of the screen are actually a little bit big for the round impression for the original knob - one day I'll be brave enough to file back those corners so it fits a bit better. I do have a plan to 3d print a new panel, but I haven't got around to it yet. Could my screen fall out - hopefully not, because I replaced the provided screws with longer versions, so the screws go through my 3d printed surround, through the screen, through a thin 3d printed insulator and then into the plastic stand offs which usually hold the screen to the rocketscream board. So it can only fall off if the threads go in those stand offs - so I was careful when I screwed it on not to go too tight. Would I cut out a larger section? Probably not. The way i have mounted it means the four screws are holding the screen on the front and holding the weight of the board behind. Replacing the whole section might need gluing in to be able to take the weight of the rocketscreen board (not that it weighs all that much, but it also has a few wires hanging off it and I wouldn't want it floating around the mains if it did fall). The metal of the oven is very thin and cutting it isn't always very neat. I'd worry if I took a larger hole out I'd need to make my print big enough to cover a larger space to hide any imperfections. Please do post a picture of yours though which ever way you do it - I'd love to see it.
@@AdamWelchUK Thank you, for the detailed answer. It answers my questions, I will stick with the printed circle for now and like you say, there is always the option of getting the Dremel out again at a later date. Just out of interest, where about's are you, I'm in Preston, Lancashire.
