Ian, Big time fan and miss your TV show. Like your style and presentation methods. Started welding in 1966 when the Army taught us. Now and old retired ( 20 years ) backyard Barney but loving the Science and art of Fabrication/Welding. Welding is a true Science when combining Metallurgy and physics together along with blind luck and preparation and where the 2 meet can be called skill.Never have owned a yellow machine to date and not sure if I will make that mark before the big dirt nap arrives. Esab is making a strong case with their products and multi process machines. Keep doing what you are doing as you do this better than most and present the material in a way that most can comprehend. Thanks for posting and making most folks lives more fulfilling and productive, What ever your future I wish you well and PLEASE keep up the Edification of the DIY and novice folks as they are the future of this art. All the best moving forward.
Thank you to the Fellas at ESAB amd Ian for taking the time to put this out. This video is exactly what i wanted and the inside advice from Ian about tack welding your first few cages is huge. Im in welding school right now because i want to build rock crawlers.
A point not made here is in a multi tube junction (node as he called it) each tube should be fully welded before the next tube goes on top of it so you can't fit & tack all of them in place & weld the whole mess in one hit.
And use ear protection when grinding, do not end up like me with tinnitus (constant beep tone) you cannot get rid of it, please take care use ear protection!!! (Thx great presentation)
A TN-250 notcher from Baileigh Tools is a great friend to have for cage work. Unfortunately it is an expensive friend. Glad I bought mine before the price increase.
When making a notch, is there a specification on the depth, so that it "penetrates" the diameter of the adjoining tube, if that makes sense? Maybe that takes care of itself when notched to the proper diameter?
Ian I'm a Hugh fan and thanks to you I've bought an Esab 215 EMP IC. But since I'm a complete rookie to welding, I'm confused as to what ratio of mixed gas is the basic, 75/25, 85/15 or 90/10? I know you mentioned the 90/10 is what you normally like to use for less splatter. But for a rookie? Also what wire size and type to use for around the house/ranch?
I'm new to welding so dumb question here... if I buy a prefabbed 4pt or 6 pt cage for my street driven, non-raced, 1965 mustang ... can the base of the cage be Flux welded? I'm looking to get into non gas welding...
i want a roll cage that will really conform to the body of my car, a 79 camaro. if i make the tubing curved instead of strictly straight tubing to really conform, will it be less safe or weaker than a straight tube roll cage?
Maxymilian Kowalewski, a little weaker, but still stronger than if it wasnt there. Like he said it's all good unless your trying to conform to racing class specs.
Trick Tools sells them as Tube Welding 'Positioner' clamps and they come in a few variations. I've found them to be situational use, particularly limited when setting tube positions inside the constraints of a vehicle body. The big threaded sections wind up getting in the way if the tubes are between any body structure, but they can be useful depending on your application.
Im an engineer its interesting seeing this. and then looking at those fancy rock bouncer type chassis, they are way over built and some of that roll caging is just redundant or ineffective. i guess its like riding around in a suit of armor though. if you look at something like formula offroad they look like they have horribly inadequete cages but they crash HARD all the time, sometimes every run they roll over multiple times and very rarely get banged up aside from the wheels breaking off.
Rock bouncers have an excessive amount of tubing in the chassis. But there is a difference. A true desert car, SCORE or Ultra 4 is designed to keep you safe in a crash...but the car doesn't have to drive away. Kind of a weight vs strength thing. A,rock bouncer is built to roll...many many many times and keep going..they are HEAVY but can take a beating
@@BigTireGarage awesome, thanks ! this might the best basic roll cage fab video i have seen. you touch on all aspects but dont get carried away talking about one thing. this makes it very easy to wrap my head around the whole project before i start, and i can focus on all the little details after i have a basic plan. and it was also nice to see you in action on the bustedknuckle and bleepinjeep trail to sema videos.
The birds nest of wire on the floor problem...... why don't mig guns have a hook on them anymore so you can hang them up, remember them!? On my ESAB I had to build a stand pipe for somewhere to stick the gun, hang my helmet & put my old guy glasses.
Tweco guns do, and I've got a BOSS Weld gun (similar to Tweco) thats only a year old and has a hook. I'm in Australia tho not sure if that'd make a difference.
