I have the regular 35 and love it. But I didn't realize they'd improved the battery slot in the SE. In the older 35s there can't be any film in it to switch the battery, which has bitten me before.
Denae & Andrew ya that is actually one of the reasons I searched out an SE. I like my light meters and wanted to be able to replace battery mid-roll if needed. I also liked that this was the last version of it so it is relatively new. I need to put some B&W through it. I saw your video a while back when you posted some samples of yours. You have the Tessar version right?
Randall Stewart good info. I wondered why being slightly off voltage had no impact on meter since it matched my Sekonic reading perfectly. This explains it. I don’t mind the small batter hump and it seemed more logical, as the battery going out mid roll is not a problem with SE.
Nice review! I always look forward to your film camera reviews. When I bought my Rollei I also noticed the low speed shutter issue. I found that exercising the shutter at all the lower speeds a decent amount of times, solved the problem. Some owners have not been as fortunate and have had to open their Rolleis and lubricate the shutter blades. Good luck.
Scapaflow I think the issue with mine is deeper. When I select those speeds the light meter displays two red lights which would mean both over AND under exposed. So there seems to be some bigger issue with those speeds. Thankfully 1/60th and above work fine. I’m not even stressing it as I wouldn’t normally shoot below 1/60th on such a camera.
Lubricate shutterblades?! Are you mad man?! Never ever bring oil close to shutterblades. You can sometimes lubricate the shutter *mechanism* but only with special oil and very sparingly. Delubrication with lighter fluid on the other hand is a good idea. The shutter in the 35 is pretty special because it collapses with the shutterblades being unhookable from the driver mechanism. That might explain the trouble.
Randall Stewart interesting about both lights. Sounds like that is possibly expected (both lights) and likely unrelated to mechanical problem. I may try playing with slower speeds.
My cap on my original 35 is the same. I cut two *very* small and thin pieces of gaff tape and placed them on the inside lip of the cap at around 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock and it makes the cap seat really nicely.
By the way, your case will stretch and form to the lens shape no matter what you do. Mine was my grand-dad's and he never used a filter (on that camera anyhow) and you can clearly see which side the lens is now "meant" to go on. :) It's like a well-worn leather wallet where you can see the outline of credit cards and such eventually... It just happens cuz it's leather. It actually looks cool and is just as protective as it was. And he took this camera with the case EVERYWHERE. :)
there was propobly a lot of wariation becouse my was sold with yellow lether and i bought really god converter for battery from ebay. I know some electronic stuff so it really work good. Anyway this is really cool little camera ;3
I got the Rollie 35S and I got it From a charity shop in London for £27.00 second hand few years ago and it got original camera strap and case and lens hood and I got a front filter for it to keep the lens clean and this one showing in this video recording will cost up to buy in UK or In LONDON will cost you from £300 to £400
Hey I just bought a Rollei 35SE and they said the shutter had issues from 30th through to 1/2 sec. You said the same? Did you figure out what the problem was? Kind of coincidental don't you think? Cheers Roger
Roger Johnston it’s a common issue with the mechanics getting stuck. I read that you could take the camera apart and clean some parts with lighter fluid to remove the “gummed up” grease on them, but never bothered. I sold the camera last year.
I have a silver Rollei 35 SE, Mine is missing the apeture lock. If I want to use it will it be a problem? is there a way to get it replaced, or does it not affect it to a detrimental extent?
Never did get why when you design an expensive quality camera like that, you don’t put a rangefinder on it? On the other hand accurately judging distances is a very very useful skill when you are doing anything camera related.
Helge Frisenette it would be even more expensive due to complexity. And I’m not sure they could make it that compact when this camera first came out. I know Olympus was about to figure it out in the 80’s with the XA, but the first Rollei 35’s came out decades before that.
Hi, I have a rollei 35 se with the same aperture features, do I need to change those often or is there a number where I should keep the din/asa?? So confused, does this control the lighting??
Interesting. The viewfinder on my SE is completely silvered. You can't see through it from the lens side of the camera. Also my ASA dial doesn't have that latch.
The viewfinder may be fully fogged. Bummer. Sometimes the aperture lock didn’t have the latch, or sometimes not even the entire lever. Not sure when, why, or on which models.
Thanks for the video, how do you correct the light meter with your 6V battery? if you have a 400 film, you set the ISO meter to 200? or 800? greetings Markus
Min Kyung kang the modern battery is an S27PX. It works fine because the camera had a voltage regulator which is bringing down the 6V to the camera’s native 5.7V. Meter is spot on, reading same as my Sekonic light meter. I bought it here: Exell Battery S27PX 6V Silver Oxide Battery EPX27 V27PX 4NR43 KX27 HS3C, White/Silver www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEGR2R4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QxfNAbKATQX8B
