More info here:wp.me/p8lMsR-FI Rolling and tipping Interlux Brightsides Flag Blue paint, thinned with 333, over grey Pre-Kote primer. This is the first coat. You can see the rest of the process, and the other boat, at: wp.me/p8lMsR-FI
Glad you like it. I used those green Scotch pads or equivalent. Don't want to remove any paint, just enough to scratch it evenly and put a tooth in it.
This is the best I've ever seen a boat rolled for sure. I am about to roll and tip my 17 maverick mirage with awl grip. What would you say is the best tip for 'tipping' to reduce the chance of brush marks? Thanks!!
Sorry, I'm more a writer than an actor. There's a lot more info at the link in the description above. But yes, it's a small fine foam roller. The roller mostly gets paint on the boat somewhat evenly. Going over it with overlapping strokes helps do that, as the roller unloads a lot of paint initially it becomes more thirsty by the end, so going back to the beginning will pick up the excess paint there and redistribute it to the dryer areas. You'll notice i do a quick pass over the whole section with a freshly loaded roller, then go back over the whole section to spread it evenly. The brush is not critical, just a reasonably good quality finish brush will do. I used a Wooster. It doesn't pick up paint because you preload it with enough to paint to keep it damp - not enough to add more paint, just to keep it from sucking up paint off the surface. Did not bother cleaning the brush until the job was done. You work a small area because the added thinners in the paint evaporate VERY quickly, so you need to work a small area fast while the paint is quite thin. It has to flow out naturally after the brush stroke. The brush is mostly just to pop the bubbles left by the foam roller, and to help even out the paint by stroking in the opposite direction. If you try to do a big area the paint starts to get tacky before you're done. You start leaving brush marks that don't flow out, and the bubbles start leaving little craters. No advantage to working a larger area.
It is very obvious that painting with roller and brush will not be best than using a spray gun. But Dammmmmm😱 so far is the best video i had found on RU-vid with best results.👍👍 Thanks for sharing it.
dislikes because you dont paint over gelcoat you cut and polish it and repair it if you paint over gelcoat it will chip off easily where as gelcoat you can repair easily and polish easily
@Lteo Hrnt how many boats do you own?I have lots of experience with painted gelcoat yes it looks good for a few years but it is not as good as repairing the gelcoat and maintaining it
Still sort of soothing to watch this. I'm in the business myself but it never gets old to see a painters reflection come through the shine in his art! Beautiful work sir!
More details provided at the link above. But short answer is the brush was first dampened with thinner. This both helps keep the bristles from drawing moisture out of the paint, and keeps paint from drying in the brush while working. Not enough to be wet, you don't want to dilute the paint further. Paint is also thinned, which helps it lay out flat rather than leave brush marks.
EyeInHand I know i am a little late on this. But I just got my first truck a month ago. and I stumbled upon this video. may I ask what paint/ thinner ratio you used? I find this video very very confidence boosting. it looks amazing! never would have thought this was achievable with a roller!
@@nathanielselvidge4157 you need to judge for yourself the amount of thinner you need. Start with 5% stir it and see if it's viscous enough for the appliance, if it's not then add 5% more. If the thinner is a universal type thinner and not actually the same as the base chemical in the paint then it will start evaporating so you will need to control it throught, for example in a spray gun you would add thinners to the cup when the paint started shooting cob webs or getting too thick. For epoxy paints and the likes the thinner will be the same as one of the base chemicals so it won't evaporate and will stay at that viscosity until it starts curing. Another good way of tipping is leaving the paint to dry a tad then go over it with a second roller that's purely been doused in thinner. This works well getting rid of bubbles and flattens it off nicely but I'd only do this method if you have a smooth surface to work on that isn't very porous, the reason being is that the act of tipping with a brush is very good at squashing paint into the poures and small pin holes and using 2 rollers won't do that as well as a roller then pushing it in with a brush. People who brush too lightly on the tip aren't doing it correctly either. You want to see the paint getting pushed in slightly when you tip. If it's anti slip paint I'd get a proper tipping brush for that as its a nightmare tipping that off with a stiff brush.
Very nice work. And a gentle hand you have. The people who dislike this are people who have tried and failed to attain results like yours. Looks like it was sprayed. Very informative.....
I will be doing my Little River Marine Heritage 18'. I have watched your video and enjoyed gaining knowledge from it. I have one question: Do you do half the hull on one side by taping off, then reverse this on the other side by taping it off? Will both sides blend well at this taped point? Thanks, Fitzy
Because of your lighting and paint colour... I've NEVER seen a better demo of rolling and tipping, not just what to do by how and why it is effective. Thank you! About to paint my fiberglass vintage camper with boat paint this way.
I navigated to this link from a boat building web forum looking for technique for using interlux Brightsides to paint an exterior door. I've already coated and sanded it twice with lousy results. All I can say is a picture (or video) is worth a thousand words. I duplicated this technique (right down to the Peter Gabriel soundtrack) and got perfect results. The only thing I'd add is: copy this technique to the letter. The paint does not respond well to 'do-over' brush strokes. If you lift the brush, then continue, you will see that area. If you brush a second time, it will show up. Also I used Interlux 333 thinner which is what they recommend, and dipped the brush in it prior to using. Thanks for posting, it saved my small project. PS: I highly recommend this product for hard-duty exterior applications. It really holds up in UV light, heavy weather, and abuse.
Thanks, ersatzS2. You are exactly right. The trick is to always work to the wet edge, and only make one complete pass. Essentially you're manually laying down a single continuous coat of paint from one end of the project to the other. There's no going backwards at all, not even the slightest touch ups. Once a full coat is done, and the paint is completely dry, you can buff, scuff and/or lightly sand to smooth out imperfections, then come back with the next complete coat. I also used 333 thinner, and also dampened the brush with it before starting. Be careful the brush isn't WET with thinner, though. I made that mistake the first time. Excess thinner bled out of the brush into the paint and made streaks. You just want to dampen the brush slightly so it doesn't soak moisture out of the paint. After dampening the brush and shaking out the excess, I worked some paint up into the brush before starting the work, and that seemed to give the best results. Also, Peter Gabriel may be the secret sauce for success. Highly recommended. ;-)
Not sure if you're still responding here but first, BEAUTIFUL job. My question: did you use the gray primer under the white boat? I will also check your website. Many thanks.
Perceptive question! No I did not. I used white primer on the white boat, grey primer on the blue boat. High build primers on both, but colors that closer matched the final paint.
Thank you for making this video - it made me believe that I can do this! I have literally watched this video over 20 times this past month - waiting for that 'perfect painting day' - today is the day! Took a week to finish all the prep work - boat is ready - don't know that I am - soooo, nervous. I can only hope for these results. Off to find my Peter Gabriel 'So' CD. Wish me luck!!! (restoring a 1980 Puffer for my daughters bday in October).
There are some details on the paint and thinner in the description, as well as a link to more lengthy info. The paint was thinned the same for every coat. It's pretty critical to getting a smooth finish without leaving brush marks. How much you thin it is really varies according to how fast you work and over how large an area. Slow and larger areas will require more thinning. Fast and small areas less. Keep the paint thin and flowing while you work. If the brush drags it's getting too dry.
Use it to thin the paint enough to be self-leveling. Straight from the can, uncut, the paint is too thick, retains brush strokes. I used about a capful of 333 to a cupful of paint, but you'll need more or less depending on humidity, temp, etc.
I just used this exact method - about 18" section at a time to finish up my transom repair. Thanks for the video! Gave me confidence I could do it myself. Finished the last coat today and it looks great. Didn't thin mine at all, and just barely wet my brush with paint to do the tipping. Amazing watching this paint flatten out.
The brush was first dampened in 333 thinner, just to keep the paint from drawing deep into it. After that just dip in the thinned paint or you get streaks. The paint is thinned with one capful of 333 thinner to one cup of paint, but you vary that according to temp, humidity, and your own working speed. I don't think any other paint thinners would work the same. I've never seen anything as thin and volatile. The paint it too expensive (for me) to experiment on cheaper thinners that might fail.
Dear Sir I am to paint my van with alkyd oil based paint- Tikkurilla brand , dark blue colour. I got the finest brush from local store as well as foam rollers. Paint suggests using 1050 white spirit. Which thinner to dip tipping brush on for this particular paint please. Painting outside after sunset +20c Please also suggest delution ratio ? 10% of 1050 white spirit feels not enough amd paint is sticky and difficult to spread and coat gets on thick. Thank you very much in advance.
@@maximolotov Sadly, every paint is different. You'll have to experiment with what you have to find the proper ratio. But it should end up very thin and runny, not at all sticky. Basically, you want it thin enough that when you apply a brush stroke any texture will flatten out naturally. Be aware that not all paints do this well. So much better than others.
I used this paint with a roller like he is doing 8 years ago to paint some body panels on my truck and the paint has held up well, when it gets hazy looking i just break out my porter cable 7424 buffer with some polish and good as new!
You have to simply expand the wet edge along the boat. Otherwise, if a section dries, there will be a ridge in the paint where the sections overlap, because the paint is double thick there. You can definitely see it. I made sure my overlap fell along a visual break to hide it, in this case where the flat bottom and curved sides meet at an angle.
Great video, here is a question if I may. What type of paint are you using? And brand? I’m currently sanding an old fibreglass sailboat and once down to the fibreglass do I need to prime it first? Or can this product be painted directly into fibreglass? Thanh you and yes I subscribed and liked the video. Great demo
In the description, you'll find a link to my build blog. There's far more detail there than I can put into a reply here, including the answers you need.
No paint on the brush, just enough thinner to make it damp, and what little paint it picked up. If you have paint on the brush it will leave streaks instead of tip them out.
One of the best examples of rolling and tipping on RU-vid. Great additional instructions and information on your website also. Thank you for sharing this.
Yup. Keep that fan OFF! Had a buddy come back to a fresh paint job where the fan had blown Cotton Tree seeds all over it. Lots of bad words and much sanding fixed ita
I'm doing the Rustoleum paint job on an old Chevy truck. I'm going to try this "Tipping" technique on a small area of the hood and see how it turns out. I enjoyed the video and it gives me a certain level of confidence watching someone else knock it out of the park.
I just proved that tipping is not only unnecessary it only makes for brush strokes. After sanding down my first coat I tried rolling only. The trick is to thin quite a bit. To remove the bubbles simply roll the roller over the bubbles as light as possible. No roller marks no brush marks. Flows out instantly.
If you leave brush strokes when tipping with a brush, the most common reasons are either the paint isn't thinned enough to flow out flat or it's drying too fast (maybe trying to work too large an area). With enough care, tipping with a roller can work. Glad that worked for you. All things being equal, most people find a good brush for tipping is far more forgiving, and let's you work faster with fewer mistakes. The foam rollers I use would never work for tipping. They leave micro-bubbles that don't dissolve quickly enough - the paint starts to thicken before they pop, and each one leaves a tiny ring and a pit. Also, with too light a touch, enough not to leave bubbles, the roller stops rolling and just smears. Other rollers, and a lot of finesse, might be able to overcome those problems. Not saying you're wrong, or that it can't be done, just that in most situations a brush will work better.
Fantastic video! I watched it over and over, making notes along the way. Then I followed your link for more information. I referenced this video before painting my own boat three years ago and forgot how valuable it was, as I begin final painting preparations for my second Rooster sailboat this week. You have no idea how helpful this was to watch and learn from...Thank you!
@@dooflydetailguuy4349 Absolutely beautiful! My first boat ended up with an "orange peel" texture in the paint. But we live and we learn. The second boat (after watching this video) came out "showroom" perfect. This is not a great quality video, but hopefully it shows enough about the paint job. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iROpmQxVubY.html
The paint is thinned slightly, and the brush was initially just dampened with thinner and thoroughly shaken out. You don't want the brush to bleed extra thinner into the paint (my own mistake) just keep a dry brush from sucking all the moisture out of the paint. More details in the link in the description - can't post a link in the comments. What was your issue, too much thinner or not enough?
I just finished painting a 19ft. campervan in seafoam green using this technique, I watched this video several times before I started. The results were the same, simply stunning!!
Doesn't sound like a temperature problem. It was probably mid-60s when I painted. You do have to scuff between coats. The paint dries so slick it won't stick to itself evenly - orange peels. You scuff evenly and lightly to give it a "tooth" to grab onto, or at least I did. Where I missed, the wet paint tried to pull away and bead up. Any oil or contamination on the surface can make it act funny, too. Just wipe with water between coats. Also, too much thinner in the brush will do it, too.
Eyeinhand...I see your here in the oldest city..just brought a schooner down from Charleston and am at Xynides on Riberia, would like to bend an elbow with you if you get a chance...I am at The Pirate Store on St. George....amazing technique mate!
You have to work quickly, while the paint is wet and fluid. The thinner evaporates so fast you can only work a small area at a time without it starting to dry and leave brush marks. You want to work a whole surface, steadily covering the whole thing in a single continuous strip.
Just two. Using a primer color that's roughly the same value as the finish coat helps a lot. As you probably know, much depends on the quality of paint used.
Thanks for the video. Just put the first coat on my jet ski today. It came out great. I was going from blue to white. Brightside covers surprisingly well. Thinned about 7% with 333 and used a small foam roller. No sags or runs. Do have a couple of pops even though I wiped down and washed twice.Think the spot putty isn't playing well with the paint. Just going to sand and reprime a couple of spots before the second coat. Only used about 8 ounces on the first coat.
Great job, Your video inspired me to roll and tip my Laser yacht and it turned out as good with many people commenting how did you do it with just a roller and brush!!
Was this supposed to be an informative demonstration? What roller did he use; foam, mohair; what was the nap length was the nap on the roller, 3/16", 1/4"? Did you dilute the paint? By what percentage?
Brightside paint is way too complicated for the DIY painter!!! Too many variations in the rolling and tipping process. Not near enough product info on the can. Because it takes soooo long to dry, it is terrible for vertical surfaces!! Too much sagging and runs. I would never try this stuff again. It's for pros. Trying to get a finish like the one in this video is a real longshot.
Hello. Can you explain why my second layer turned out matted? I did the same as first time , does thinner destroy the gloss on second layer? The first layer came out fantastic , o don’t get it , hope you help!
You know, I think you're right. It could be very helpful. There are some small tricks to the prep work that make things easier or can make a big difference, and those aren't covered in this. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll see what I can do.
