so you broke that stupid thing while changing your fuel pump? been there done that. heres how to do a rollover valve/ tank vent repair on your ram truck.
I also feel i should elaborate on why bypassing the roll over valve with a piece of hose vented to atmosphere is a safety issue. If you bypass your roll over valve and roll your vehicle all the fuel will spill out, which obviously poses a huge safety risk. That will put both yourself and first responders at risk. So make sure to put a flapper valve in that way it can vent but of the vehicle is overturned it wont spill your gas tank out.
Great minds think alike, I broke this nipple off when I was replacing my fuel pump. I literally did the exact same repair (aside from using a different pin to hold the nipple in place) before seeing your video. it's a great way to avoid replacing your tank for sure. Good work man, great walk through for anyone who needs to make the same repair.
I don't know the exact number of these trucks that Dodge manufactured, but you Sir should have at least that many Subscribers, just for making this video. Thank you.
What makes it worse is when you have an impatient father in law helping you and not only breaks the small outlet but also the large one as well so now I have two repairs to make before I can put my fuel pump back together thanks in laws you're the best
Thanks man,I have a 2014 1500 Express 4x4 5.7 hemi,just for reference in case someone runs into the same issue. Before I saw this video I couldn't find something that worked, so I broke off the ground lug from my extension cord and worked ok for about a few months. Then I tried the roll pin,Awesome thanks! Im sure OSHA would not approve of my extension cord anymore though 😁🤣✌️🤙
Super helpful i broke one of the nipples trying to get the old house off and the glue i used wouldn’t hold but that putty and the roll pin seems like the perfect fix thanks for this video
@@AutobodyAndy I forget bud. You can find them in the aisle with the doorman "Help" kits. I cant remember a lot of the 3g ram stuff because i dont own it any more. blew that truck up with nitrous at 475,000 km a year ago. Have a 1st gen now but still miss it.
This video saved my A$$!!! Thank you!! I broke both the smaller lines on that stupid rollover valve. I ended up buying the smallest metal brake line I could get from o'reilly's and cutting it down to size. i still had to drill out just a tiny bit for the lines to fit. Then I used quick epoxy to hold them in place. It worked like a charm with no evap leaks.
My hose that broke was the larger one. It broke around the neck and hose was just hanging. I found a 7/16 metal tube. I had to carefully drill out the inside of the broken pieces so my tube would slide in the middle then we slid it in and carefully and put epoxie puddy around it and let it dry. Works good
I felt bad for braking the retainer clip that connects to the evap canister, but it would have been a lot worse braking that nipple so I’m glad I broke the clip instead of the nipple cause I was really close to braking it the way I was pulling on it. Those clips are no joke to take off with limited space.
Its a shame that dodge, chrysler has no info on these 2 part vent control valves out there, they really are a 2 part valve, canaster fume line, larger hose and rollover valve line, the hose that connects the vent control valve to the rollover valve, really just connecting one side of the tank to the other, the vent line, the one you fixed, is seperate because it flows to the very center of the control valve stricktly to vent the gas tank, air flows up from center of the control valve to all 3 of the lines, its basically a single check valve on its own thats why it cant be tee into the other two, if it is then the gas tank still cant breath, wish i had a diagram to show this but thats how it works, dodge and chrysler treat it as there big secret valve and purposly put NO info out there on these control valves. i had the opertunity of physically taking one of these control valves apart and a big AH HA moment happend when i seen this valve apart, its very iniq in that its a single gas tank vent check valve while the evap lines a very seperat from that line but at the same time connected /in a check valve way to them, this is why you cant tee the actual vent line to any of the 2 evap lines on this control valve.i would explain more on this valve but it would take me to write a damn book on this page lol. thanks for showing the best way to fix these stupit control valves.
I did exactly what you did in the video and it worked before I put the vent hose on but the hose had a kink in it so it wouldn’t fill so I ordered a new one I hope the kink was the problem 🤷♂️
I put a T in the existing vacuum line and plugged the hole as you said and it did not work. It actually made it worse now it takes forever to fill it with gas and the check engine light is still one. Anyone wondering if going the easy route works it doesn’t you need to hook it up exactly as it was originally.
Anyone that wants to replace their fuel tank B&R auto wrecking their out of Washington area and they can ship to you. I feel like this video is a temporary solution for now but I think I will replace tank 26 gallon for 142
Dude, your explanation of the rollover valve is not right. the nipple that is broken on your valve does not connect in any way to the 2 that are not broken. the broken one / if you look closely to the top of the rollover valve it extends to the center of the valve enabling the gas tank to vent, the other 2 that are not broken are tied together for vented fumes / evap/ you can not tee the broken vent line to any of the evap lines, you can tee the 2 unbroken evap lines together. Trust me been there done that, worked on these dodge and chrysler rollover valves for many many years. if you dont believe me please fact check everything ive told you. only 2 ways to fix that broken vent nipple /1# the way you just did it or 2# replace entire tank but you cant tee the vent line into any of the other lines.
Have the same problem going on. Tried to epoxy the nipple without using the rollover pin before i seen this video. Held strong but now the pump stops after about 25 cents. Guess ill be breaking off that epoxy and starting over again
Just curious. My knowledge is slim on these newer cars with the evap systems. What would happen if you chose just to not reconnect that line that goes up to the filler hose?
@@edwardgrabinsky6369 in the process of doing your tip. Got the epoxy drying on it now. Thanks alot! I believe it's going to work just fine! I'm replacing the old line with rubber fuel line with hose clamps.
How are you, boss, I found a rollpin that is exactly the same size as the hole in the line, so I don't need to make the hole wider with the drill bit. Do you think I need to get a bigger rollpin and make the hole in the line wider?
That kit was Doorman 13850 from canadian tire, but you can get roll pins at most hardware stores. What i did was grab a pin a little bigger than the ID of the plastic so the bore isn't too restricted. Then mic the roll pin OD and match it to a drill, bored out the hole so its a good fit.
I’m trying to track down an EVAP leak (large) and am wondering if with the engine off should I be able to hold a vacuum on those smaller lines going to the evap canister? With engine running I hear what sounds like vacuum near the gas tank and suspect them but have not dropped the tank yet. I guess what I’m trying to say is, how can I verify they are working and not leaking?
I doubt you are still having this problem but if you ever have it again, you can go to pretty much any mechanic and they can do a thing called a smoke test. A smoke test is where they will blow smoke through your evap system and look for smoke leaks. Just a little tip for anyone with a problem like this.
What did the little rubber nipple come off of? I broke the exact same thing and when I put gas in the truck, the fuel slow fills into the tank and stops every .25 of a gallon.
You could probably do it without dropping the tank, but with how much of a pain that would be its honestly easier to drop the tank. Will be less time and work once its all said and done. And you will have a better repair. Seems like more work to drop the tank but honestly its less if you just be careful not to break more stuff. And of you loose or break a clip for the push release things you can just put a zip tie where the plastic band is. But leave the tail on the zip tie so the next guy knows whats going on.
if your trying to buy the vent controller valve, you cant. its welded plasticly to the tank. either fix it, the way that is shown here or purchase a new tank, roughly about 7 or 8 hundred dollars, or take a big chance and get a junk yard tank for much cheaper.
@@edwardgrabinsky6369 I am suffering from same nipple broken issue with dodge charger from last 3 years, its not only Rams. I get P0456 and P0457. will try this fix, thanks for this solution
I honestly never even thought of that. Im not a mechanic by trade i just like old cars so i havnt see it all yet. Makes total sense though. That would be a pain in the but. Smoke machine job to figure that one out i guess.
Finally found the same question I had. I had a large leak P0455, and found 2 dangling lines both hanging down. I figured that was my issue and tied them together. Code went away truck ran fine. Week later I got the P0457 code for a gas cap leak. Searched everywhere. Bought a smoker and found out both small ports are broke off. Now since I tied them together already curious if I can plug the 2 broken ports and hope my codes go away. I don’t plan on rolling my truck any time soon and it’s cheaper than a new tank
I had the diagnostic Codes P0442 & P0456 for a year. When the fuel pump quit, I was looking undernieth and found the hose from gas cap (line) was hanging and had a white nipple that broken from somewhere. I have the longbed Ram, so I I also broke the fuel pump's nipple trying to disconnect. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NsHO5gzyYjI.html After my fuel pump quit, and I was looking up, I saw the loose hose. 24-31" from from, 16-26" from driver side, cut bed access. I have yet to remove the broken nipples. The Dodge & GM OEM tool removed the pumps ring, and reinstall a snap..
@@edwardgrabinsky6369 just messing with you I'm having to do this due to a shop broke mine after replacing fuel pump and didn't tell me anything and how I figure it out was barely pulling that line and it came off the fuel tank vent valve with a cut straw...I'm going to see bout getting all my money back for they're poor work if not I'm going to takem to small claims court cause all other work they done on it isn't any better they even screwed up the parts I got from rockauto for both front control arms with ball joints and bottom they didn't put grease and on one of my bottom balls joints they put a pin hole in my boot. This kind of stress I'm talking bout is itching for a straight ass beating
No there are many that are rated for direct contact to gasoline or its vapor. You just have to select the right one for your application. That putty held up for over 100,000 km before i blew the engine up drag racing on nitrous.
