My 05 is at 273k and runs good with power. Surprises me when I floor it. But I have replaced suspension and steering not cause they broke but they were not as tight as they could have been.
great tutorial! Bought a 2003 Ram 1500 with the 5.9L about 3 yrs ago....super duper cheap because it had a dent in the bed. I actually thought it was going to cost at the most $500-$800 to fix the dent. Took it to 4,5 different body shops all said the bed needed to be replaced, ended up costing 3k!!! (about what I paid for the truck LOL) Luckily, the engine is solid, no rust, and interior in pretty good shape. These 2nd and 3rd gen Rams are some of the best looking trucks out there, not getting rid of my anytime soon.....202k miles strong
I just got an 06 with 245k miles on it. Not as good of shape, but I'm working on a few projects on it. Only paid $1,800 (2WD manual windows) so I feel it's a good deal.
Great video. I bought an '02 Ram 1500, 4.7L, TWD six months ago. It has 194k on it and runs great. Did most all of these checks and also used Seafoam in the gas and oil to clean it out a bit. Had the trans fluid and filters changed, new wheels bearings, rear diff fluid changed, new front brake hoses, and new water pump. Very little rust and a nice burgundy paint. I love it! These seem to be great trucks and are affordable too.
I have had 2 rams 2010 and 2014. I have encountered the same problem (with fewer than 30,000 miles, BTW) that I never hear discussed in these type of videos: sticky calipers that don't wand to let go of the disk. It affects gas mileage and heats up the wheels. They are not real expensive (the parts, anyway). I suggest you replace these when you get new brake pads.
I've heard alot of issue like this coming from worn out rubber brake hoses leading to the calipers. Sometimes they get. Vaccum seal and collapse on themselves.
Got a 04 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 5.7 hemi just got and found out it has almost 600k miles was disappointed but I mean still runs great and still has a lot of power
I have watched a lot of RU-vid videos on truck evals of all brands. This video is the GOAT in efficiency and effectiveness in communicating info. AWESOME. PS - not related or associated with this RU-vidr, in case you're wondering LOL.
@5:25 THe wheel, when you take off the rotor and try to reuse the Same Nut as equipped you will have a wear on tires that will Haunt you, replace the Nut that holds on front bearing that has the words do not reuse on it
You dont mention ac issues .The blend doors are a major issue if you want ac.Major repair the entire dash in some cases has to be torn apart to fix the doors in the hvac box.It can cost thousands of dollars and caust tons of grieg.
NOT ALL PARTS ARE CRATED EQUAL??? Lololol yeah. I bought your knock sensors for a 4.8 Chevy and they worked for less than 24 hours and never shut the engine light off. Torque everything to spec. I bought the entire kit. So I'll never buy parts from 1AAuto again.
I’m not a mechanic by any means but I’ll dig into my ram if the level isn’t expert level but It’s always attractive to see a woman who knows her sh*t and hold her own ! #Salute from Massachusetts
Exactly what I was looking for. I'm going to inspect, repair, and replace the things you taught me to look at. My son and grandson will have this truck for years and will be safe. Thank you!
A couple of days ago a friend of a friend was tired of dealing with a 2005 Ram 1500 quad cab 2wd 4.7L with 158k miles. He had just spent several thousand dollars ~$5k total )in all new brakes, rebuilt front suspension, new fuel pump and new O2 sensors. Current issue was no stop turn or tail lights, no power to AC compressor clutch and randomly cuts off when driving, blows fuse #20 fuse. Also, key switch was bad and would let key come out in “accessory” position when turning truck off, which would run the battery down. It also has at least one broken exhaust manifold bolts and associated exhaust leaks. It had a random misfire. I Got it home and plugged in the code scanner. PO300 random misfire code even though there is no CEL illuminated. (Next step is to see if someone removed the bulb). Installed a fresh set of Autolite plugs in place of the champions. They looked OK, but the truck ran better and no misfire or PO300 code. He had zero mechanical ability and taking it to a shop was putting him in a financial pit. He was asking $1500. I offered $750, he countered with $1k, which was what I was willing to pay. No cracks in dash, 50% tread on tires no dents or rust but some painted it with what looks like bed liner (textured) and it is dirty/ nasty. I fixed the lights issue the next day. Turns out there is a connector behind the driver tirewell (bad design, Dodge) that was loose. Cleaned and reconnected. I have a new key switch that arrived today ($24 on Amazon with free returns in case that isn’t it) that will hopefully fix the random fuse blowing issue. From my internet searches, it seems to fit. If this is solved I plan to install new hood struts, new headlights (yellowed beyond saving) and pick up some take off tires I came across (if someone else doesn’t beat me to them, but I can’t see spending the $$$ if the truck won’t run reliably). Also has roaring sound like the fan clutch but goes away when turning left and gets worse turning right so it needs at least one new front hub. I’m starting to wish I had passed! I have a 2001 silverado 2500hd duramax/ Allison auto that has been vitally trouble free for 309k miles. I guess I’m “spoiled”. I thought about hanging in to the ram as an a extra vehicle but now I wanna get away from it before the engine or trans takes a dump.
I am so pleasantly impressed with your knowledge, skills, and ability to share on video. Thank you so much!!! If you and yours are in Central Virginia anytime, let us know... we'd like to recipricate with taking you all out for dinner.
I just got a 2008 Ram 1500 with 140K on a 4.7. I feel that it's a good truck, because it's obvious that it has been heavily mistreated, but is still going strong. It'll need a tune up, shocks, and transmission seal (sign of a small leak in the rear of end of the transmission). The only reason why I got it is simply because it's a rare crew cab V8 with a manual transmission. I hope I won't be disappointed, being the first Dodge. I've usually had Ford F150 and Silverados.
My '04 is going to hit 300k, I bought it in 2017 with about 150k. First thing I did was oil change, spark plugs and wires. Then transmission work because.... I forgot why but I took it to mechanic and they fix the, they had this deal with it it's flush and change the filter some other stuff. And then I've done my own work which is the whole front end suspension and the rear shocks, I did the fuel pump myself, all maintenance myself which is the spark plugs oil changes. Did the water pump with fan clutch myself, thermostat housing, I change the serpentine belt myself along with the pullies. I do my own brake changes bleed the brakes all that etc. Changed out my front driver seat because the motor gave out and I had to get another one for my local Pick-n-Pull parts place and changed it. In order to take off just the front seat you have to unscrew all of them though. I have the Hemi so I've been hearing a tick and I looked it up so I guess I'm not the only one. The only thing I haven't done is a engine rebuild or anything that has to do with the engines, since I've had it. But that is the next thing I want to do is have the engine looked at by a Dodge specialist here in my town, along with the AC system but other than that everything is good
Are certain brake fluids golden when they're brand new? I've gotten some that have been goldish with the seal still on the bottle and the bottle was brand new from the parts store with a manufacture date that suggests its only 2 months old. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that because I'm ashamed to admit I've never paid much attention...I just change the brake fluid every time I buy a new car and from there every 12-16 months.
For those that issues with their ram shutting g off while driving (engine loss) , random misfire codes and hard starts after it shuts down change the crank shaft position sensor. This will fix the problem.
Mam, not to sound like a critic. but with a Vehicle of this age. As you pointed out with the Trailer hitch inspection that you did. Acan of deoxit might be a beneficial purchase, for all your electrical needs. Also please note these Rams suffer from certain recalls or issues that get Misdiagnosed. For example, the front left headlight socket often goes bad. People take it into a local shop, because they can't afford the Labor Rate @ the Dealership they bought it from. They end up getting charge for a control unit instead of what the real issue is.
My '05 Ram 2500 4x4 diesel is a tank. I'm the original owner it has 300k mi on it. Still runs like a top. I've towed a 33-foot 5th wheel across the country 3 times. Never a problem. However, I am OCD on maintenance. I have it meticulously serviced. And, at 165k I put a new heavy-duty ATS transmission in it. Other than that, stock vehicle that will out live me.
One issue I had that might be due to Arizona climate, I don’t do rough off road just simple desert crossing and the rubber bushing of the engine mounts are worn and cracked so the engine shifted out of place, I was able to replace them but just so anyone knows they’re hard to find and about 100-200 a piece
I have a 2008 1500 4x4 with a 4.7l, and just rolled 200,000 miles. This thing has towed a camper (thousands of miles) horse trailer, two boats and several U-hauls. It still holds compression and has no leaks. It has been a great truck, and I will drive it until it will go no more.
I'm only half way thru the video. I paused it to write this. I've already noticed a few times this person had supplied misleading info on how to check out a high mileage ram. I've owned 2. And love em. Especially how she "checked" the ball joints. Not how you check those on most 1/2 ton trucks these days. Just saying
Well I'm back. She's literally pointing at the inspection plate at the bell housing and making assumptions. It's like 4 or 6 bolts. A rear main isn't hard to figure out on rams....
‘00 Dakota and ‘99 1500 owner here. No issues with either truck. Other than a couple very easily repairable leaks I had that I repaired myself for next to nothing. 2nd gen high mileage dodges are indestructible
This was incredible!! Thank you for this video! I am about to go check out a 2003 Ram this weekend, and your video helped me feel a lot more confident that I'll make wise purchasing decisions! Thank you for the guidance and explanations of why we check for each thing, and what it tells us. This video was really helpful
My 06 1500 4.7L Just got fresh plugs and already replaced a caliper and rotor the brakes and a control arm But for 216K miles an oil change every 2500 miles full synthetic she runs like a top no engine noises
I bought a 2001 ram 1500 2 wheel drive ,with blown head gasket what came out of the oil and radiator was a brown sludge I decided to get a new motor And put that in I changed All filters new hoses I put the same transmission that came factory , but now it cranks runs bo problems right 😢 wrong it runs great for about a mile then it will no longer pull just stoped pulling ,left stranded every time what could it be .
this is the best godamn indepth video of how and what too look for on a ram truck when buying it. everything you are saying is easy to understand and you even made the video easy to make a list off of to check when you are buying a ram. i love this video and im going to use this as a check list for when i buy my ram
Being a retired heavy equipment technician I can tell you she is doing a good job with this video she missed the exhaust system and maybe plug into the rig and see if there’s any stored codes and the dates on the tires free play in steering you could do more but she has done a great job thanks
I can't wait for you to get too high mileage on a Lexus GS300 period over 200,000 miles and it still runs beautifully weather few aches and pains. Also, I have a Honda that's 13 years old and has aches and pains. I can't wait
Got a 06 big horn edition 5.7 few weeks ago. anyone Noticed on light acceleration sounds like a cough or studder or boof sound. idk if its a bacfire in the intake or what...Just on light acceleration if I'm on it sounds perfectly fine. Had the mechanic the dealership sent me to look at it and he said its the k&n cold air intake and should put the stock back on. Anyone else have this issue with cold air intakes. I dont have the stock intake and cost more to convert back to stock... would a closed box air intake like a s&b help any helps appreciated
