Roof Edge Sealing - Grand Design Imagine

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This how-to covers the process of properly sealing the roof edge with lap sealant. Video included.
Materials:
• (1) tube of Alpha Systems Non-sag Lap Sealant (I used ½ tube for 50+ feet)
• 1” blue tape
• Isopropyl alcohol
• Caulking gun
• Roof cleaning (i.e. Eternabond Roof Cleaner or isopropyl alcohol)
• Rag for cleaning
• Paper towels
Tips:
• Working with lap sealant is nothing like latex caulk or silicone, both of which can be easily shaped with a finger. Lap sealant is like marshmallow crème, very sticky and impossible to shape with a finger.
• Use a very thin bead on the non-sag sealant.
• Use a paper towel, and wet with alcohol to wipe the bead. Try to leave as little as possible on the tape but don’t wipe out the sealant application.
• Let it cure for a minimum of 24 hours, 48+ would be even better. I tried pulling the tape an hour after application and the sealant was sticking badly to the tape.
• After 24 hours the blue tape was falling off, which meant the lap sealant had cured enough to release the tape.
• It stuck in a few areas but not bad. A 48-hour cure would be better.
• Temperature may impact curing time, adjust accordingly.

Опубликовано:

11 июл 2022

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Комментарии : 26

@dgc7321 2 года назад

The eternabond is your best option regardless of what your rv tech friend says.

@markphillips590 8 месяцев назад

I have noticed some very small cracks in the same area that you are discussing on our 2022 2600'RB, on the downside of the older sealant. I like that the probability is that it will not leak, and certainly appreciated your video that indicated better to be safe than sorry. I was on the camper yesterday and found your video today - THANKFUL. I also noticed some separations between the slide-out's top rubber gasket mounted on the trailer, just below the gutter. I was not really sure how to seal that, or if it is necessary. I also plan to seal the very small gap in the gutter that I think is very common, and gutters should not have gaps. And then there is the ongoing debate about "To Eternabond or Not to Eternabond, that is the question." Thanks for the video!

@be4realz Год назад

Its always a good idea to seal regardless of what RV people say. They throw these things together and soooo crapy. Everything is at risk of water and damage

@alardon1126 Год назад

Tom, I know you said you weren't looking for perfection, but it looks pretty darn close. Very nicely done. Looking to protect my travel trailer too. Thanks for the vid.

@poundsonwood 7 месяцев назад

I did my edges with Eternabond tape. Techs don't like it because they don't like trying to remove it if they need to do something for you later, but that just tells you how well it sticks on there. And I think you might have missed the point of using Eternabond. It isn't to be a replacement for proper caulking along that trim. It is to protect the EPDM where it is stretched over the corner. I replaced the caulk and had it all well sealed before I added the E-tape. Also, the plastic trim that goes in the aluminum track is not a water barrier. I replaced the plastic trim due to sun baking and the track was packed with mud which had penetrated around the insert. Now it has a second barrier to water due to the tape over it. You did a nice job with the caulk, but you could have gone a step further with protection.

@vivian2077 Год назад

I was just at the Grand Design factory for some warranty work and was asking the tech how to further protect the edge over the trim. He basically suggested exactly what you did. I have never worked with the non sag and searched for a video. Luckily you posted this one so I could learn from you. Thank you for posting this. I do wonder if the blue tape is necessary since that non sag lays down more rigid than the self leveling.

@stoneywilliams1209 9 месяцев назад

Your tech guy should have mentioned that the water that does go down between will rust out the non stainless screws they put in to fasten your drip rail. Not sure if you put the right tape or cleaned the surface properly but a 2” eternabond wrapped from roof to inside the gutter works best.

@carolpeck6872 Год назад

That is not true about the water not getting in. This past winter season, we had snow on the roof and guess what, the area below where the water got in it delaminated. So now we have to go and eternabond the edges, and yes, we have kept up with all the dicore touch ups. Had a tech give us a quote to repair the area where it delaminated, it was 3900.00 to fix.

@amyellerson8154 Год назад

I wish I could get someone near me as intelligent as you to come help me. I live in mine & I can not find no one near me. It's upsetting

@allenc9520 Год назад

Thank you Tom. I appreciate your video. You did a great job explaining and filming your process. I am about to do the same exact thing on our RV. Did use any sealant before applying the foiled HVAC tape on the gutter joints?

@tjlasonde Год назад

Not before. But it would beneficial to smear on some sealant after applying the HVAC tape. Mine still leaked. Applying some sealant might help seal the tape edges. I'm about ready to wave the white flag on that gutter seam. It really needs to be welded together and then ground down smooth.

@allenc9520 Год назад

@@tjlasonde thank you. I started to clean and remove old sealant. Then it got too cold to apply new. I have it stored under a carport. There was HVAC tape on those seams just couldn’t remember if there was caulk there too. I have some proflex that I think I will apply little in the gap then apply the tape when that cures.

@rollandbrower7827 Год назад

Has your Rv Tech shared with you his thoughts about using Eternabond on areas like tv antenna penetrations or vents where traditionally seen is Dicor self leveling?

@tjlasonde Год назад

Yes, he said don't do it.

@faceondariver3092 2 года назад

Did you clean out the old sealant before cleaning and running your bead? Like when re-calking windows, cleaning away the old calk so the new calk and adhere properly? If so, how did you do it? A tool the doesn't gouge the rubber roof?

@tjlasonde 2 года назад

In my case, no. If I had any loose sealant, I would have carefully pulled and trimmed it out. If one were to cut out old sealant, they would risk damaging the membrane. My sealant had minor cracking. Adding a layer that was shaped in helped fill those voids. The lap sealant then bonds to the old sealant. Latex caulk and silicones can not chemically bond together as these lap sealants can, that's why it's best to remove old caulk.

@faceondariver3092 2 года назад

@@tjlasonde Thanks for explaining that. I guess I have to get it out of my head that it's calk. I'll probably have a better idea once I get into it. I'm at the "buy supplies and learn stuff" stage. My amazon cart has your recommended items 😀

@faceondariver3092 Год назад

My painters tape is still up there. It never came off in 3 weeks of hot sun. Then it rained but it still is up there. I tried to take it off slow and it just stretches the white crap that never cured. It's been months and it is still sticky. Pine needles are sticking to it. I think it's keeping the rain out. I just can't touch it or it sticks to me. Yes I got both the blue and the red tube and used them as directed.

@faceondariver3092 11 месяцев назад

Follow up post. This method didn't work out for me. The painter's tape never came off. The caulk never dried though it had a full hot month without rain. The trailer leaked and got moldy. Yes, I prepped cleanly and I have excellent attention to detail. If I go up there right now the caulk will stick to my hand and it's been a full year. That was a whole lot of work for nothing. I know we're only supposed to use GD's alpha system sealants, but the tubes I got (red and blue) were a crap product that never dried. Now there is leaves and needles stuck to all the caulk.

@Dave-sw2dm 10 месяцев назад

I loooked at a grand design. I didn't see what makes tem more expensive. Still require all the same maintenance and still fall apert if not constantly maintained.

@tjlasonde 10 месяцев назад

I wouldn't argue with you. I think GD's business model is to provide best-in-class warranty support, which costs money to facilitate (call center, website, parts, labor, shipping), which makes them more expensive. Pre-covid I would have told you their quality level was a 6 on a 1 to 10 scale. Whereas many others were a 3-5. Post-pandemic, they've dropped below that number. If you are a DIYer and can do your own maintenance work, you can choose differently, as you don't need best-in-class warranty support.

@tomclose6643 Год назад

Thats all great but that doesnt help hold that plastic gutter cover that can snap off from wind and snow use 2" eternabond over that gutter edge and partially over the gutter cover piece will eliminate that areafrom ever leaking do 6" in the front and back side of roof all set.

@tjlasonde Год назад

I agree. I did that several year ago. I just didn’t show it. This video focused on that bead running the length of the roof.

@tongvang724 Год назад

Looks tacky, why not just use eternabond?

@tjlasonde Год назад

My RV tech friend (40 years in the business) advised me not to. The tape is designed to be a patch, not a long-term fix. The tape is made out of plastics and adhesive that will break down faster (UV damage) than the roof membrane (TPO) and lap sealant. There are ZERO RV manufacturers that use the tape to seal roof edges or any other roof penetration points. Watch this video to learn more. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fZrBdTtbLiQ.html