It’s great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan’s ru-vid.comUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
This series is seamless, just like zipsystem! Thank you Steve for insight into your design from a first principals lens. Keep making the world a better place.
Steve should have his own channel. Incredibly informative and well presented. Not trying to sell me overpriced crap. Exactly what Matt's channel used to be before he got sponsored.
Love the series Steve. As an architectural tech. I appreciate the in the studio with big red. I hope to see more of the design aspect moving forward. We'll done. I look forward to the rest of the series.
Boston Steve I really appreciate your explanation of all the roofing details. Very informative. I didn't realize some of the hangers you used and the wind and snow details. Your methodical explanation helps a lot. Thanks.
Hardly understand the complexity of engineering the roof system, but was still very interesting. I might watch this a couple more times. Thanks for sharing!!
Another AWSOME video Steve!!! Well explaned, easy to understand, very intetesting and informative video! I learned ALOT!! PLEASE keep these kind of videos coming! Thanks for such good videos Steve....great job...well done!!! 👍👍👍
Hey Matt can you please explain or do a video on how you go about limiting the roof plumbing vents when you have a grade on slab when trying to obtain a passive house.
Like your Build Show series very much! I don't quite understand the sloped roof ventilation concept. The section view filled the lower end with insulation and the upper end is semi restricted with the end cap, both are blocking or restricting air movement up and out of the roof space. I have seen baffles used on the lower ends to restrict far outside insulation depth and accomodate several inches of space to allow air movement past the insulation. Maybe put Big Red on the air movement issue?
In the United States we span the spectrum from building with absolute quality and performance in mind to the horror story builds of quantity junk built homes that leave new home owners wet and cold! Only inspection and code holds the standards up and the feet to the fire. While building construction and materials have evolved greatly in the past 20 to 30 years, we still have some evolving to go and could easily build stronger and more resilient homes, that are affordable, efficient and most importantly well built.
Metal Gauge is based on weight of the metal. For instance a block of steel that is 12" x 12" x 1" will weigh 41.82 lb. An 18 gauge piece of steel 12" x 12" will have a thickness of .478lb because it must weight 2lb. The thickness is dictated by the weight. this is why different metals have different thicknesses for a given gauge.
At 11:21 you said the Simpson screws pulled the truss down minor detail but they are threaded all the way and do not pull the truss down. However they do great at preventing uplift.
@@trp2413 Here's the rub......If I tell you the products we are using you call it a commercial, if I keep everything generic people complain I don't tell who the manufacturer is. The reality is we are building a house, it needs materials, the materials have names.......I share the names.....
@@trp2413 Thank you - have been struggling with this, because I will always get a comment from one of the 2 camps, so who do I solve for -I choose to help those that want to know something rather than someone with a comment telling me I'm a used car salesman. I'm not, and the reality is, what my client's choose is not necessarily the choice for the majority.
Why do the flash of spray foam? You have 3 1/2" + on the roof giving you at least R16. You said that your total R-value is 65. This gives you a 24% on the exterior. 20% min to prevent condensation on the underside. So all looks good, but with a flat roof membrane and EPS exterior insulation, you have no drying to the outside. Only drying can occur inside. With the closed cell, you are not allowing the sheathing to dry inside. I guess the argument is that no moisture/air can get in but you will have moisture trapped in there. As you say the rain and snow coming down. What is your thought process?
I'm wondering, just spitballing because I know there's relatively high humidity in Boston, and while it can get cold, it's usually just around freezing in winter, it's "wet" cold. And humid summers. So maybe there's less drying thats going to happen anyways? That while it wouldn't be good in Colorado or Texas... idk
I know if you have an A frame gable roof, you would put in a continuous filtered fabric ridge vent where moisture can escape in the event it gets in the attic space. But with flat / shed style roofs, you don't have that peak like an A-frame so you put in box vents. So along with soffit vents, both a ridge vent and a box vent work in tandem with them to create a continuous venting system. Very hot air and moisture, if any, have a way to escape
@@squirlmy Pretty close. Only thing is I live outside of Boston, and basically here they will get pretty much every kind of weather, the only difference is the extremes don't "hold" for long periods of time, for example we will get a couple heat waves of over 100 degrees with high humidity where it feels like Texas for that time period, but will only hold for a couple days until it drops back down to the 90s & 80s, and humidity can dissipate. Same with winter....it usually stays in the teens or 20s, but sometimes it will drop down to the single digits and even sometimes at night will drop to well below 0, but this doesn't stay for weeks on end. Southern & Northern New England are different in the winter where it does feel like more of a "wet" cold here like you said where in Northern New England it feels more like a "true" dry cold. You wouldn't expect it either but we usually get more snow than Northern cause Southern is affected more by noreasters which one of the ingredients is moist cold air off the ocean producing tons of snow. Northern gets more of the traditional mountain "skiing" snow, and often there it can actually be too cold to snow. Sometimes even in the winter it will get in the 60s here...this winter is an example, where it dropped down to -12 degrees one night with a wind chill factor of 40 degrees, but only that night. Weather can be all whack here. The jetstream often impacts New England and will override the norm all the time. We also get more annual rain than Seattle (we just don't get constant mists like they do, here it rains hard but is over with quicker). So homes here have to be designed & built for every weather scenario possible, but the extremes wouldn't be as stringent as like Texas for warm climate criteria and not as stringent like Minneapolis for cold weather criteria.
a bit pedantic perhaps, but I do need to note that while there are several gauge system (US & UK) depending on the type of material and purpose, none of them directly corrolate to the equvivivalent fraction of an inch. There is ONE gauge number (for plates) that equals the same fraction and that is 16 = 1/16 inch, for (i think) stainless steel. No other gauge number in any system is equal to their fraction that i could find. In fact most dont even have an equivivalent fraction at all, just decimal values (low gauge numbers tend to have fractions, higher numbers dont). very poor fact checking on his part i have to say
Another fun fact the gauge of materials are established by code in the US CFR; I do believe, I dont have it in front of me, that the decimals are slightly different per materials
@@shubinternet well, aside from the "higer numbers means thinner metal" and i kinda assume he knew that before he started doing hid DIY stuff at home, nothing he said about gauge was right...i would call that spectacularly bad tbh
With that much insulation, do you think covering the entire floor with Warmboard will cause overheating? Or will the boiler just be running at very low temperatures? It seems like you could have saved a lot of money on Warmboard if you only put a few panels in each room. You could install it on the ceiling to avoid the perception of warmer/cooler areas of the floor.
Radiant floor needs consistentcy, by which I mean under every step. The water temp will modulate as well as the duration of pumping it thru the system to ensure no overheating
With the amount of insulation in this house for the heating season (same concept applies for the cooling season) giving it a nice BTU retention, therefore the hydronic boiler for radiant floor heat does not run at a higher temperatures which is designed that way. A traditional hydronic baseboard system or another form of hydronic radiator are designed to run at higher temperature as opposed to radiant floor heat. When you have this much insulation (BTU retention), for example in a typical zone that has reached its desired temperature, hot water leaves the boiler, it will return at warmer temperature as opposed to a cool temperature, the boiler will be doing less work and pumping. The beauty of radiant floor heat, the entire floor is your radiator giving a comfortable feeling. It should be noted, roughly about 5-6 feet from the floor is the effective travel range for radiant floor, you could have the air temperature cooler from that point to the ceiling. This is why you need the correct amount of insulation to combat the effect. Additional means could be applied if need. This a topic for another time how the cold robs from the hot. In my experience, very few home owners have this problem. When a boiler designed for radiant heating at higher temperatures, then has to be something wrong with interior envelope. If the system was full configured by Warmboard based upon Steve's and the mechanical engineer's specifications for the entire residence, then Warmboard will size the boiler with the given temperature range and the other mechanical stuff. The specification includes the R-value of the insulation package, the number of openings (windows and doors), and of course the square footage & volume. Typical temperature range for the radiant system on the average is about108 degrees F give or take 5 degrees. Warmboard's now has various boilers to go along with Pex piping, controls, pumps, and manifolds plus a detail shop drawing for final approval when you go for the full package. It would be great for Steve to have another video on radiant floor heat.
Matt.. at 43:17 you explain that truss enclosure is filled with 20" of blown in insulation. As it approaches the heel height area, it seems to fill in the void completely. Does this roof require any venting using screening at soffits ?
Steve -assuming that bedroom 1 truss roof will be ‘cold’ roof, not clear where you air/vapor barrier will be on that assembly? The zip ends at top plate and then your energy sits on that. Are you relying on a interior drywall for continuity? I ask because in the. Past you have been wary of that.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I have watched this series of content enthusiastically and learning as a layman bits & pieces of your methods and processes. Very well done! Also watched older videos. Hope one day to be able to retain you to design a home in the Pacific Northwest.
Hello, I'm an owner builder, and we are about ready for framing . I've been through an architect and finished with a draftsman who didn't give us a very detailed plan.. wished my architect didn't get me into trouble with remodeling sqft increases cost attributed to adding 50% + Can you zip sheathing on a building that is not speced for it
The top of the double top plate overlap the other wall in the corner so the walls are lock together. Plus, you only have 1 height of stud to cut and this keep everything simple. Hope it helps!
Technically we could do a single plate - I have learned there are concepts to easily employ, and some others that are more of a challenge. I have done single top plate house, typically framers don't like them and bldg inspectors have questions
Regarding the roof insulation… are you not encapsulating the framing with insulation that could trap moisture? Between the inner flash insulation and outer insulation. Does that not go against the rules per Dr. Joe Lstiburek? Are both insulations a closed cell product?
"LVL supported on the outside wall." I guess you will place another 2x6 directly under it. The window header for the upstairs bathroom. Is it supporting another floor or just the roof? I might install 2x4 blocking for additional support. I'm not understanding the drip edge and gutter detail. Why not place the gutter flush with the roof edge and eliminate the drip edge and additional flashing? You talk about using a Simpson hold-down bracket at the roof trusses; however, you are installing the Simpson screws. I thought the screws were a substitute for the brackets. We put screws on our build at every truss. Simpson has claimed an uplift force of 300 lbs. Please protect yourself under the trusses as they are going up with a Hard Hat.
Yes a head plate go under the header there. The drip edge is as stated, you need an edge to drip the water from. The bottom edge of the drip edge kicks out slightly so the gutter can tuck neatly under. I you just flush it up nothing pushes water into the gutter, it will challenge the seam between the gutter and the fascia. Yes,we are using screws the rafter tie was a reference to what we typically do on cut rafters. The screws are an alternative to the rafter ties.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Let me know when you install the gutter and fascia. I can see what you're saying. I was looking at an all one piece. Be safe out there. Thanks.
I am not sure of your question? Are you suggesting melted snow ill somehow make it to the backside of the wall sheathing and exterior face of the stud frame? What is the path of the melted snow? How does it get back there?
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I should have said '' top plate '' instead of '' stud '' , and it is in regards to the open section that didn't have finished roof yet . In your video , it is snowing as the roof joists are being installed ,and snow collecting on the top plate . At roughly 8:30 mark , interior side of the sheathing just below the top plate appears to be wet .There is no watertight seal between exterior side of the top plate and sheathing , and when snow melts , where does water go ? Evaporates on it's own or gets absorbed by the wood and results in rot ? I'm not trying to be difficult , just want to understand .
@@BurbSK-bi2wh Gotcha - the wall sheathing isn't installed yet in the video. It is now. The rubber roof will turn up the wall sheathing at the cheek wall to ensure the melting snow has no entry point
where's the post under the beam and there no such thing as a flat roof after the roof is installed it has a little sloop , a cut roof is a lost art ! I could not imagine working in those conditions , I've been at it for forty years and yes I know how to cut a roof . but there are some times trusses are a better fit
Maybe you should have watched to 24:54 where I talk about no such thing as a flat roof, then you wouldn't have to waste the time telling me such a thing. I agree, sometimes trusses are the best solution, but many times cut roofs pose a better solution.......Thanks for joining in - Very much appreciated
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 sorry Steven for rubbing you the wrong way but you should tell your viewers the proper way of things on this video not 24:54 and my comments are just a opinion of mine they can believe anything they want . I have helped people with numerous things in construction I am not the best but I get by lol . I have worked with numerous architects and engineers and they don't always know what's best just cover their ass on some over engineered project they come up with to cover their own ass but everything you said was right but everything I said was right as well , its called common sense and where are the hurricane clips on the trusses ?
@@jayralston2305 no worries buddy, sounds like we are two old guys trying to make sure good info is being passed on. I appreciate you joining in on the discussion. For the trusses we are using Simpson Strong Tie 's 6" structural hold down truss screws
@@LongLiveOurBuildings Steve I like the idea of truss screws it hold them down without damaging the wood thank you for this conversation , nowadays there no reason why we can’t build a better house with the materials we have now but there is one reason unskilled carpenters lol
42:33 - From one architect to another on this, Steve, you're losing me. Moderate climate? I don't know where this might come from, the codes maybe, but considering the 120+ degree yearly temp swings, humidity and the daily temp. range we see here, I would say Missouri is anything but moderate.
My thought was, as I work around the country Dakotas to Louisiana, yeah, Missouri is somewhat in the middle there. My comments at the time you cited where targeted towards insulating against cold climate comparisons, so yeah, I think Missouri is certainly more moderate than Minnesota in the winter, from a heating perspective
