Rotted Toilet Flange and Toilet Replaced - Ahwatukee, AZ (03/20/21) 

Thank you for taking the time to go through ALL the details with those of us that are novice and need complete and thorough advice! There will always be situations in this old house we just cannot tackle, and I just wish this city had a plumber like YOU that did such a meticulous and organized job. You are obviously concerned about your clients. God Bless you for being such a caring soul!

Since the double wax install is the first time I've seen that done, I think having the video of the toilet being "smushed" onto the rings would have made this an even better video.

I also ran into the issue with having a void around the flange in my downstairs bathroom thats on a slab. What I did was mixed up a batch of Sakrete anchor cement and poured it into the void until it was level with the top of the slab. Its the consistency of Hersheys syrup before it starts to set and flows in and filled the gap perfectly. Once it dried I was able to then drill holes with a masonry bit and screw down the flange with Tapcon concrete screws. Solid as a rock.

Only thing I needed to seen you place the bowl back in place.

I will say one thing, your the cleanest plumber i,ve ever seen.

Just took my toilet out to find the flange completely rusted out. This was a great video to show me how to accomplish a replacement. Great to know I can get that in stainless. THANKS!

I always use some TP (it's usually right there) to cover the hole. As for the amount of wax, I think a extra thick wax is good enough. If you squeeze too much wax when you're seating toilet you run a risk of it actually going into the waste line and clogging the hole and or catching TP when flushed and down the road you'll have a clog. I can tell when this happens and I get wax on my toilet snake. Good video and love the clean work area!

What a fantastic tool you have by filming your projects. Anytime a customer questions why you did something you've got the whole job recorded. I always thought a good tradesman never minds when people watch them work. Good job buddy.

Thank you. I like that you let the camera run long enough to give an example of the patience and persistence that it really takes to get a good result in a situation where things have decayed.

Thank you so much for this video. I was in the situation where the toilet flange was completely rusted out and I didn't even know what pieces where what. I was able to get it all out eventually and now I'm much more confident in getting everything done right! Thanks again!!

1st I appreciate your attention to wanting to do this job correctly & 2nd I appreciate that you are so tidy!!!!

Great video. The only difference, to save time and labor we use an oscillating tool to if needed to be cut out, the bolts, rusted pipes and especially a messy flange. Best tool ever made.

My Dad invented those there called the Clam I'm happy too see you using them we make them in Erie ,PA.

A pair of needle nose vise grips work wonders. I think they make an extra-large thick wax ring. Good job thanks for sharing..

If replacing a round front bowl with an elongated bowl and toilet is on the wall next to entry door that swings in... make sure door will clear front of new bowl. It may be a round front for a reason. Measure twice, install once.

My son and I feel more confident about our toilet repair plan. Thanks for sharing

i think overall you did a very good job, just would have liked to see the toilet get set down on floor

That was a hell of a job you did !. What I liked most is how cleaned you did your job and that my friend goes to show you how responsible you are in executing your job.

Nice touch, vaccum to water line. You're the cleanest plumber on earth!

You’re pretty good yeah I was wondering about the drain I didn’t see you put a towel something to make sure nothing fell down the grade that’s only thing I didn’t see but I learned a lot from you thanks man different type of flange too

Great video , Awsome professionalism. I know you make customers feel good. Though all the difficulty you win Gold. Forever a fan🎉

always bring the flange up , never use 2 wax. all flanges are ment to be secured. first time it gets a good bump IT WILL SPIN

You can get that rusted flange off in 10 min with a dremel. Put a rag in the sewer line while your working. Master Plumber 50 yrs.

Great job on replacing the flange. Wish all plumbers were detailed like yourself…..impressive!

I'm currently struggling getting my flange out. good video 10/10

Thanks for the video. You did a good job of explaining all the detail's. I just had the same problem this evening.

Thanks, very informative. People may not know this, but when using an open ended hacksaw, always install the blade so it cuts on the pull stroke not push.

Great Job, you definitely take pride in doing your job. Thks,

Great job, Enjoyed the full video and the explanation of everything you were doing at the time you were doing it!👍

Great job and very helpful video. Thanks - from neighboring Fountain Hills, Arizona.

One tip: I watched another video of flange replacement and they made tape and marker marks on the floor where the flange bolts are prior to removing them. That way when putting the new one in it's easier the figure out where you want it. And makes it easier to replace toilet as well

Because that flange wasn't bolted down that toilet will move regardless of what you said

Thanks for the video. When I purchased mounting bolts, the pack only came with one washer and nut and referred to using a piece of plastic to hold the bolt up (which wasn't included). Just before the big gap in your video due to your camera battery dying, I noticed you used a nut to tighten each bolt to the flange so they stand straight up and are secure. I think this is a good idea, and saw this tip in another video, and thus others should ensure they in face have TWO washers and TWO nuts for EACH bolt. In another video I saw use of green painters tape on the floor with a line drawn in marker exactly where the bolt holes are. The missing piece from this video is the part where you "horse walk" the toilet over the bolt holes, then set the toilet down slow on the wax seal. Wax needs to be at room temp. Then I guess you could apply downward pressure with your hands, or sit on the toilet gradually, then tighten up. I am going to try an extra thick wax seal, versus an ordinary one, or two stacked. For those keeping an existing toilet, it is likely important to also clean off the old wax clinging to the underside of the old toilet. Suggest users use a stuffed rag to cover the big drain hole (reduces sewer gas, and chance of guck falling in, or important parts falling in). Remember to take out the stuffed rag before the "horse walk". Thanks again for your efforts to help us.

Very informative for this DIY, wanted to see the toilet placed on two wax rings. Good job!

You are relying on two tiny screws to hold the toilet in place 😳. I would have screwed the double ring to the floor.

That’s what I do every day! I did 6 repair flanges and two subfloor repairs

I use Stainless Steel replacement rings & bolt them to the floor. I usually try to orient the new flange so the bolt heads are at the end of the narrow slot where it is strongest. I fasten the hold- down bolts to the flange itself, as he is doing. I only use 5/16" Brass bolts & nuts. The Big Boxes have cheaped out & gone to brass plated steel bolts, which rust & rot out, plus some are thin. Check them with a magnet before buying. You may have to go to an old hardware store or supply house to find the heavier brass bolts. Although they have "snap-off" bolts, Do Not try to bend them over & snap them! You may warp the flange or Crack the toilet base! Use a mini hack saw/ etc. to cut them off! Not a fan of the new plastic hold - down nuts! I only use large brass nuts & metal washers. You may need 2 wax rings if it is an old 4 inch cast iron flange. I shape one to fill the gap around the flange then set one on the flange. I use extra wax to seal all holes in the flange & around it's circumference to protect the subfloor in case of leaks. After l set the John, l seal it to the floor with an adhesive caulk like Loktite/ Polyseamseal & clean up with a rounded grout sponge After l test the toilet for leaks. Best to always change the water supply tube up to the tank since it may be deteriorated or have a different seal footprint where it connects to the fill valve.

Next time stuff the hole with a clothe or something but be careful not to let it fall in. I learnt that from another video. They said poisonous gasses aren't good. I think they have a point. :)

You can use a plunger and plunge the remaining water out of bowl when emptying it. There will be a little left, but won't spill out unless you intentionally tip bowl when removing

I am a 69 yo woman who appreciates this video because tomorrow this job is on my list of things to do. Thank you

Great job I like your patient of cleaning everything as you go

As a former sheet metal mechanic/duct man, I am appalled at your use of those snips at 14:25 sir 🤣

Wish I had seen this yesterday. That replacement flange looks better than the solution available to me at the local store here in a blizzard on a Saturday. I got back together, doesn't leak, and the toilet doesn't rock. Until next time.

I used the same type of flange because mine was completely rusted out. I didnt screw into concrete because i didn't have a hammer drill. i worried my toilet would move around but it's been more than a year and no movement at all. i didn't use a wax ring, rather i used a rubber one, also no problems. Although your video didn't teach me how to do this, it's reassured me that my toilet should be ok.

I often rely upon a battery powered Dremel with cut off for these situations. Thanks for the video

Awesome! This is exactly what I needed to see. This girl is redoing her half bath, and I found out I needed to change the flange and had no idea how to do it. Unfortunately, my do-it- all father lives 600 miles away and my wonderful husband is an attorney, so you know...😆 Thanks for walking me through it!

I like that you care about the job you do. You did a great job. I’d hire you in a heart beat 😊

i, replaced my old round front toilet with a water saver elongated chair hight, re placed comode flange wax ring supply line and a quarter turn angle stop complete installation with toilet shims and clean area in 45, minutes kauking arond base / no complaining, good video

14:55 Remove hold down screws in flange, take out flange a with nail bar, works for me. ( Clogs pipe first )

I wish I could post the pictures on here how I fix and set it. You'll never have a problem with the screws coming up from the soft wood floor or rotted wood floor around the flange and I usually put four screws when I set the flange definitely need 1 x 2 under that wood floor around that flange so the new screws have something to really bite in

Well thankyou for showing this video .I do have a wet floor in my bath room to replace and when I do it I have to take up the tolet to replace everything I can see but now I know so thankyou

Great video ! Detailed explanation with excellent camera work. Now confident to replace broken casr iron flange. Thank you!!!

It's really only worth considering doubling up on the wax when your flange is below your finished floor. If you use 2 waxes all the time you are just wasting wax.

Good fundamentals and work ethic. The problems I see: 1.) Always bolt toilet flanges to the floor. The holes are there to prevent left and right shifting. Shifting will cause the wax ring to wane and some other plumber will be judging your work. 2.) Always plug the opening with a rag while chipping or opening hardware packages. I saw you almost dropped the hardware down the sewer. I'm guilty of losing stuff too. 3.) Dump the wastewater outside. Homeowners don't like seeing that especially if they use the tub for bathing kiddos. 4.) When the flange is level to the floor, you don't need two wax rings. The distance has already been predetermined from finish floor.. 5.) Always double nut the tank. They make thinner nuts for this task. 6.) Always cut labels off supply lines. Why leave them to get gross and make you look lazy? 7.) Use smaller closet bolts. Tall bolts make you lift the toilet higher. This could be problematic if installing under a banjo top. 8.) A small dap of clear silicone under the mounting tabs of the toilet seat helps tremendously. I admire your cleanliness. No critical errors except for numbers 1 and 5. Keep up the good work!

He does great work, and clean too.

Great job! Thank you.

Great video.Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material.

Your video was very helpful. On to Home Depot I go!!

I would have replaced the whole flange look like there was enough concrete when he took out that old ring to use tapcom screws, always make sure the tank to bowl bolts are tight enough seen to many leak from not being tight enough

Very good job Clean and new

At 21:36 Noticed object fell into pipe : / , not sure why you didn't pull that away when you had the chance..? It may be a good idea to to block the pipe so nothing falls in that can not be retrieved later (during clean up), otherwise looks ok.

I am little confused. Were you not supposed to screw flange to sub floor? Only thing holding is plastic PVC lip.Doubling up wax also seems excessive since you run the risk of it collapsing inwards blocking the pipe.

Pretty solid repair and installation.

Thanks. Good job!

First advice to the customer: "clean your damn restroom"

I am sure that you have broke few toiletts already,screwing down to the floor ! :D

Great video! You're a natural born teacher. I do wish you had shown you actually placing the new toilet onto the wax rings

Thanks for your reply! :)

I like this work so much.

Very neat!!!

Awesome Work.

Also use some tap con concrete screws, even though I may not pull past the hub…it still can twist. Guy is trying but wouldn’t fly if he worked for me

Very nice quick job, had a leaking pan gasket & just spent half a day wrestling my toilet pan off so I could replace the pan gasket and inlet gasket! Saved hundreds though, so it was worth it, parts cost A$10 from Bunnings.

I like how you clean up . You did a great job just the way I would have done it. Keep up the good work.

Oh…a plumber that knows how to use a vacuum cleaner!

This is a repair flange. Temporary fix. Not code. A flange must be secured to the pipe with a water tight seal. Either leaded, or use a 4x2 cast iron compression flange. Sure, you will find ABS or PVC pipes and flanges. They are code. But they fail faster because they warp or break at the closet bolt connections.

At least you still had the cast iron pipe in the floor intact. I have filled one using bronze and an acetylene torch, although with difficulty. By the way those blue plastic toilet rings are a thousand times better than wax rings. Wax rings are a mess

Those snap around flanges don’t work unless they are bolted to the floor. Master Plumber out of Pennsylvania

I have done this much like you, but I always clean the flooring thoroughly before reinstalling the toilet.

Great video! Super helpful. I love seeing DIY videos by thorough, conscientious, knowledgable people.

As a property manager I have dealt with some of the worst plumbers ever in the Phoenix Scottsdale area. Most of them are hacks at best. Just had one change out a tub spout and tighten up the valve in a shower. They showed up with 3 plumbers and charged $625.00. Some of these guys are giving the good plumbers a bad name. I'm gonna give you a call and hopefully I can afford you. lol

Very conscientious!

Getting that old rusted flange removed is the most time consuming part of this job. I'm so glad they make those two piece flanges that fit into the groove. Separating the entire assembly from the main pvc pipe can have its disadvantages, especially when you're cutting and chipping away several pieces to break loose the pvc cement bond, and not hurting the integrity of the main discharge pipe that may let the sewer gasses sneak by into the restroom. That is always my main concern.

Great job bro

If you don't like leaks that rust out closet flanges & flooring, use a felt lined wax ring, or neoprene [for wall mount W.C's] You will thank me later!

Professional skills sir 👌

Despise those canister flush systems. I fought with a kohler toilet with that same flusher for over a year. It would work for a few weeks then it would hang and leak and eventually I replaced the toilet with an American Standard that had a simple flapper.

if its only leaking from the tank a fluid master rebuild kit includes all insides of tank and new tank to bowl gasket for $20.00 and 20 minutes max, but I agree with you about the round bowl and thats enough for me to trash it for a new one. When ever I have to use a toilet with a round seat it feels like a kids toilet, don't know how large and or fat people use those things.

Wish you showed the toilet going into place after new wax ring assembly

I had the exact same leak in my front bathroom. I rebuilt the tank 2 times and could NOT get the leak to stop so I replaced the toilet with a Koehler too. What a pain in the ass. I had to replace the flange because it was rusted out and was just glued on,no screws into the floor. Lazy plumber.

Must be a commission paid plumber. Here's how to tell: 1st I've rebuilt many tanks in this condition. Older toilets flushed better. 2nd The difficulty in removing the flange ring is because although it was a bit rusty, it was still stout. 3rd 100% of the bowls I pull leaking at the base has a "No-seep" horned seal under it. That's why the ring was rusty. There's a reason 100% wax seals seldom ever leaked, they seal. At least you used a metal ballcock nut. And do clean up the work nicely. 😋

Why would you not anchor that repair ring? Tapcons, hydraulic cement, anything. One good bump and that toilet is going for a ride.

Great video. you take pride in your work and it shows. Thanks for sharing.

First of all, excellent video. You let it run pretty much straight through, with your thoughts in real-time. Especially liked when you had to solve problems along the way, on the fly. And you kept a clean work area, minded your tools, and protected your knees. I do have a QUESTION though: So, the way you have the repair is that you use a flange that sits underneath the lip of the drainage pipe. (I recently had a old 4 inch diameter metal pipe, rusted metal flange issue, but used an OAKEY Replacement Flange that inserts down into the pipe, thus having a flat and wide flange body to then (1) anchor into the concrete below first, then (2) install the upward-facing bolts to the toilet. However, in your fix, because the flange does NOT sit atop the pipe (in the Oakey model), but sits BELOW the pipe top ‘lip’ loosely, and adheres to it by two tiny set screws and nothing below to sit on -- is that not a secure fit? Won’t the downward weight of the toilet when set onto the flange, that is not yet attached to the toilet by two upward bolts, cause movementof that flange downward? Yes, I suppose that as yiu tighten the bolts on the toilet, that will move the flange back up against the lip of the pipe -- but for instance, if one of the tiny screws fails, that flange will bend and break below, and you’ll never know, as it’ll still feel like the toilet bolts are tightening. I thought you were going to add back a mortar/cement base, after determining the level you needed after setting the replacement flange. Bring the replacement cement up to that height. Then wait a day or two to cure, then set back your replacement flange as you did - but now, there’d be “a solid, level floor” underneath your flange AND more than enough real estate to anchor in some cement screws to anchor that flange in place. So, you’re depending on the toilet sitting flush on the floor and not moving by virtue of the weight to be the KEY. Because there is no anchor at all to the house itself, only to the plumbing pipe! The side to side movement (if there’s any extra weight placed suddenly against the toilet) will shift against the pipe, as that’s the only connection to the toilet. No additional anchoring to a wood subfloor, concrete, or other house part. (Hopefully folks will be gentle in terms of getting up and down and not shifting too much side to side. It would be fine then).

Don't get it. What's keeping that flange attached? Didn't show setting toilet on double wax? Don't know!

Thank you.

Thanks! This really helped me out and gave me much needed knowledge on what to do

you do so .nice job and clean i . see to many plumer do so mess

You really should secure the repair flange to the floor with concrete anchors......leaving it unsecured is just lazy and potentially dangerous, the anchor holes are there for a reason. I am a fan of the extra thick wax ring but using two when the flange was pretty level with the floor seemed excessive (the flange was not recessed deep into the floor like in an old house). This was a quick and easy way to do this job but not necessarily the correct way. A few more minutes of work would have ensured there are no issues with this install for many years to come. This install will probably leak in a few years when someone leans to one side too many times or twists to reach the toilet paper too many times.

OMG! Your cleanliness is admirable if not envious!! Qustion: What is the safe tightening maximum for the bowl to flange bolts before tragic disaster happens with the toilet bowl flagnge?? Keep up the great work and hire yourself some techs and get a few trucks on the road. Thanks!!