I used this product on one tile job. Got called back because toilet kept clogging. The problem with this is that it reduced the pipe opening in a 3” pipe to under 2.5”. Clog city. I wouldn’t recommend stacking up a bunch of wax rings either. The best and easiest solution are the stackable pvc spacers at most big box stores. Just stack them until you are just above the floor level, add a Bead of silicone between spacers and flange and you’re good to go. No reduction in pipe size, no splash back, no leaks.
I hate products like these. Totally disregard code. If he can sell this shit I should be able to run 2" to a toilet. I can't so he shouldn't be able too either
I’m calling B S 😂 you did something wrong. I’ve used this product and others like it, hundreds of times. The reduced ID of the flange, will not impede the flow, if used correctly. If you are having a clogging problem, it was either installed wrong, or there is a blockage in the toilet or the line. The reduced ID is still bigger or the same size as the outlet in a toilet.
@@sativa2050 I myself would not call BS , the yellow insert is too small for some toilets , Mansfield would probably work but not so sure about American Standard Champion . Also some very old toilets can have a 3 inch Bombay
You exactly right the flange should be on top of the finish floor. I’m in the plumbing business for over 30 years, and we always install our flanges on top of the finish floor, our proven method is to stub up through the floor with 4” pvc , if the branch piping is 3” we use a 3 x 4 closet 90 to stub up 4” then we tell the GC to tile up to the 4” pipe. When we trim out the toilet we cut the 4” pvc flush with the finish floor and use a 3 x 4 pvc closet flange that glues into the 4” pipe and screw it down to the finish floor. I know most plumbers want to slap the closet collar down on the rough and be done with it but my method may take a bit longer on the trim but it’s worth the peace of mind we’re doing it right.
I make wood donuts out of pressure treated plywood. The O.D. of the donut is flush with the O.D. of the flange. As long as you know what the finish floor will be, you'll know what height the donut should be (plywood thickness). Literally, the piece of wood is cut the shape of a donut. Trace plywood with flange. Find the center of your traced circle. Use proper holes saw size so pipe side of flange fits through donut. Cut the outside traced circle with a circular saw, (if you're good), jig saw if you're not. Place flange on top of donut. Screw flange and donut to sub floor. Cement board and tile up to flange. Flange perfectly set at the rough stage.
not if you have a floating floor you cant...and most people today have those...waterproof pergo, laminate etc. its needs to be able to move...also, many times it will void the warranty on the floor
As a state licensed plumber with over 23yrs in the trade,i can tell you the easiest,CORRECT way to go about commode rough in/flange installation. When doing the rough-in on new construction use a 4 x 3 closet 90 and come up through the floor with 4 inch schedule 40 PVC. Your 4in commode Riser extending vertically from the 4 by 3 closet 90 should extend roughly of foot above where the Finish floor will be. Do not set the flange until the finished floor is complete at that point cut the 4-inch Riser flush with the finished floor using a Sawzall. Need a 4 x 3 closet flange and glue it inside of the 4-inch pipe. The key is to come up through the floor with 4 inch PVC and get the closet flange that glues tight inside of the 4-inch pipe in other words you're not gluing the flange over the pipe you're finding the 4 x 3 flange that fits inside of 4 inch. To repair a Flames that's already been installed too low they make individual PVC flange extension rings that using a long set of closet bolts you seal down to the original flange that's too low bring it above grade. The product advertised in this RU-vid video chokes down the flange by using a type of spigot flange. Absolutely do not use this product as it will choke down your commode flange at least one pipe size causing things to get hung up
What you said works just fine. However, the plumbing code, where I live clearly states that drainage piping shall NEVER be down sized. ( I know that there are exceptions to every rule ) They now make 3" cheater flanges that fit inside the 3" ABS pipe. Yes ,I know this is against code as well, in most areas but it is the same idea as what you do and the WC only has a 2" trap so I don`t see it as a big deal. It`s quick, does a neat job and works just fine. There are more than just one way that works.
Steven L Emerson the 4x3closet 90 is the only fitting where this reduction in drain piping is allowed. In reality it's not much reduction ,just one way I was taught to rough in . Inspectors have always approved. Good luck to all.
Thanks for this info. I'm going to be renovating a house built in the 40s where they jammed a toilet into a 23" alcove & wet-vented the shower through the lavatory (and the lav was s-trapped)-- oh, and they have an ABS 90 elbow glued to PVC. Basically, it's a nightmare and I'm gutting it. The tip of putting the pipe up above the floor and cutting sounds like a very good idea. I plan to install vinyl sheet so there won't be much difference in height, but I can set the flange on top of it so if there are any leaks it will hopefully not go under the vinyl.
This comment above all others makes the most sense. You're cutting the pipe to fit anyway, leave extra until the work is done and you are absolutely sure what you're working with. Then trim to fit. Sure wish my contractor did that when replaced the subflooring in my place. After 6 months of use I found out yesterday the damned toilet has been leaking after spending $10K to replace subflooring and do bathroom rennovation. I mean w the absolute f man?
Important side note. Do not caulk around your toilet. If it leaks you want to know. Most times it will show under toilet or discolouration around linoleum, not so much on tile, but if flange was put on the flooring it would. Reason why you want to see it leak is to know when to change it. If not knowing it usually rots floor before showing up on ceiling below. Not always but mostly. Just 45 yrs of plumbing that I have experienced.
Down here in Florida you definitely want to caulk underneath or even grout if you want. Whatever color your toilet is-that’s the silicone caulk or grout color you’ll use. I’ve even mixed some latex caulk with white grout to make the grout more flexible when dry. You want to caulk/silicone/grout to hide shims if you ended up needing them. Plus you don’t want nasty water that overflowed toilet to get under there and rot. You don’t want your wax ring to eventually go bad and cockroaches come up from sewer and escape into house. Plus you’d be surprised how much guys miss or the backsplash gets on floor then the floor gets mopped and the urine on floor keeps getting swished under toilet. Most of the time if it’s grouted you can see discolored grout if it’s leaking underneath. Rotting under toilet does come from overflowing toilets too-not just from a bad wax ring. Even if caulked or grouted it can still get under there thru those or even thru grout on tile then it runs under tile. Once water is under there it takes forever for it to dry anyway. Even if a wax ring goes bad it’s easier to tell it’s bad if the toilet is sealed with caulk/grout. Why you ask? Because it makes an echo chamber. The water flushing will get loud and you’ll hear it gurgle it’s way down and echo under toilet. An experienced plumber can tell either way but for you DIYers, Homeowners or handymen-just flush the toilet and you can hear the flush being loud. If you’re a home owner and you’re noticing the flush is getting louder and louder then it’s a bad wax ring. Even if you don’t caulk or grout under toilet it doesn’t mean if you have a bad wax ring it will come out underneath right away. Water finds the lowest spot and this is where the toilet flange in floor is so the water will go there first and then go down around outside of sewer pipe, go underneath would or laminate floors and yes even go under tile floor and travel even feet away until it has a spot to come up that’s down hill from the toilet. Sorry for a long babbling comment so I’ll leave homeowners,DIYers and handymen a tip. Whenever using caulk/silicone get your self a can of Denatured alcohol and an empty spray bottle with mist spray. Denatured is just like rubbing alcohol but it doesn’t evaporate so fast & is weaker-it won’t hurt anything . You can do this trick on anything-around windows,toilets, baseboards,crown molding, trim, shower,tub, countertops ,bath/shower fixtures, anywhere. Apply your caulk with your caulk gun and then before using your finger mist the whole line of the caulk/silicone with the Denatured alcohol. Now run your finger to smooth it. The Denatured alcohol will prevent any caulk from sticking to either side of your caulk line & you-it’s almost like you put tape on the wall. It will leave you with a professional caulk line if you’re not good at caulking. I hope i just saved the world and many showers, windows, countertops from actually leaking from incorrect caulking.
@@Eejtalk Covering the front and leaving it open in the back means you will never notice the leak until it gets really bad. Better to just smack your boys upside the head until they stop peeing all over the floor.
I took the first measurement at 3 o'clock and the second measurement at 9 o'clock. That's all well and good, but I think it's entirely unreasonable to have to wait 6 hours between measurements! This project took all day! 😉😏
well explained, i love the display showing the flange sitting either below or above the floor. In my case when I replaced the tile my flange now sat below the floor. I am going to check out your product line.
I've read through some of these comments so I would like to weigh in. The set right system is nice but I don't like the reduction of the 3" to less than a 2 1/2" either. It's a problem just like the offset flanges are a problem, especially on commercial toilets and air-tank flush units. So what to do? You can use their spacers and a 3" flange plate. Or you can be a skilled plumber and use an inside pipe cutter and a coupling to bring up the flange on where it needs to be. Some type of waterproofing on the subfloor is a good idea like an adhesive caulk like Phenoseal on second floor bathrooms. Using the rubber type flange seals is a better idea than the wax rings. They make removing the toilet again easier. Fluidmaster is a good one. Don't use wax rings with the plastic horn. The horn eventually gets cocked inside the flange and obstructs the waste being flushed. Caulking a toilet down is ok for appearance and a good finished look, just don't caulk around the back. Leave that open if there ever is a problem with a leak. Always level the toilet. Always check to make sure toilet doesn't wobble. Always proof your work.
On Toto's they say NEVER to use a wax ring with a plastic horn....it interferes with how they flush. As far as this Set-Rite system works, how are you supposed to drive in your hold-down bolts if they hit the metal flange underneath or an existing screw? I think it's a lot of bother when the best method is to use a purpose-built inside plastic cutter of the correct size and start over. It's UPC to seal the toilet to the floor for sanitation (males) reasons. However, you're allowed to leave the back uncaulked as you say for evidence of a future leak. I always roughed in with a cover pipe ....usually the next size. Put a test plug in the stub pipe for a water test. If the cover pipe was sized correctly, just remove, cut your stub internally, and glue on your flange. I think it's crazy stupid to set a flange on a subfloor.
Thanks! I might need to use something like this . The old toilet was installed with an improvised extension (wood, with plastic/caulking; cemented to the old toilet). This looks to be a cleaner and better solution.
Real plummer's do the job right, the problem is when people install tile the tile guy doesn't put a flange extender on, over time the toilet leaks and the plywood gets rotted and maybe a floor joist, then you're out of a bathroom and a lot of money.
At 2:50, I think he meant to say "first thing you're gonna do is remove the screws that are currently holding the old closet flange to the subfloor." THEN put the gasket in...etc.
It would be a good ideas to put some sort of durable spacer in with closet flanges so when we install them we have a good option to install the flange before trim out. I bet that would sell. I’m a plumber and I’d buy it. I can already imagine a kettle flyer and demo on a plumbing supply counter. “Never have a sunken flange again!”
I'm a very green maintenance tech for an apartment complex. I'm happy to do learning and researching on my own and I'm finding that my supervisor doesn't know as much as he thinks. When teaching me about placement of the flange he said to make the top of it flush with the floor. I think im starting to see why so many of the buildings seem to have issues with leaking flanges if he's been putting them too low and not correcting that when we find them low. And the supervisor before him would just stack wax rings 3-4 high on top of a cracked flange instead of actually installing a new flange. So I think I have my work cut out for me, but atleast I know how to go about correcting and fixing the issues properly now
It sounds like the boss never thinks about the best quality repair; he just wants to get it done. Keep doing what you're doing, think it through, and do it right. I have a lot of issues with hiring people to repair my house because they too often do something fast and cheap that pisses me off. As the building super, you're not paid to rush!
What do you do in most cases when there’s nothing to grab into...everything is lose...leak away....or if the sub floor is concrete..just wondering...can you use extended Johnny bolts to secure everything...seems to make more sense...
We put ceramic tile in our bathrooms and had three different plumbers in and I don’t think any of them have done it right! I found your video by accident and I’m glad that I did!
We would cut either copper or cpvc spacers. And the GC always knew to tell the flooring guys or tile guys to remove the screws install the flooring under the lip of the flange. The come trim time we drilled our holes and secured the flange.
So since I have to remove our broken flange and replace and have decided to install backerboard and tile I should install the new flange AFTER completing the floor tile?
you can also look into using a closet flange support bracket. I've got a video on how to install it on my channel, it's really simple and prevents rotting floor and toilet wobbling.
Im having this low closet flange issue with a macerating up-flow toilet. The thing has a basin the poo goes into which has the flange built in it.. so for one i cant drill any screws into the flange because the tank must remaim sealed. However after the subfloor, leveler, backer board, tile i have almost 2 inches i need the flange to be at. Under the basin is a concrete floor.. the only thing i can think to do is to stack spacers in between with silly cones in between each pvc spacer then wax ring on top.. i still have to get some super long bolts that will work to go from that bottom flange all the way through the pooper.. thats like a 4” bolt at least..
This is well worth watching just to understand why the heck this toilet is crooked. Physically or mechanically I instantly get -- but how?/why?/who?/when ?? Timeline drama. Pathetic.
I replaced my toilets a couple years ago and in the one bathroom they have the abs/pvc black flange just like this about 1/4 inch below floor. I did a bunch of research and professional plumbers were saying to double two wax rings. This year The toilet started clogging easy. I removed the toilet and found the kids had flushed a plastic flosser and it was in the outlet of the toilet. It had baby wipes also stuck on it and that is why I was having to plunge it recently. Well I think somehow when I used my heavy duty t-handle bazooka plunger I caused the wax seal to fail. Floor was wet and particle board on top of subfloor was soaked and expanded. So now it needs a new floor, new wood, new flange extender kit. If I had just installed this kit in the first place this damage and new floor would not be necessary most likely.
I used this system. It was super easy to install and fair priced. The alternative was going to be replacing the old flange. Saved me a ton of money and time. Now I get to poop at home again!
Overlooked one potential problem. Your Johnny bolts need to be set through the first flange or when you snug up the nuts a gap well form between the two flanges and possibly allow sewer gas to escape. Also that system reduces the inside diameter of the flange. Not good for really big poo poo. Instead ,clean the heck out of the existing flange apply a thick bead of glue/sealent to a traditional spacer ring screw down at 4 points. PS. Use extra long Johnny bolts and trim to proper hight after setting toilet. Silicone base of toilet last.
They want you to remove the old Johnny bolts. Place their spacer and flange on top. And screw their six screws through and down into the sub floor. These screws will prevent gapping. Then with the secured top, Johnny bolt from there up into toilet, with wax or other gasket. If you want to keep your old Johnny bolts for some reason. Then this kit would be a waste, as you’re buying a whole lot of parts for one spacer and a gasket. I’m writing this as I breath in raw sewage so some details might be grammatically awkward lol
You do know that all the piping in a toilet is less than 3” right? So matching the diameter of the toilet outlet with the flange, is not that big of a deal. If the clog is big enough to stop at the flange, it is big enough to stop inside the toilet. This reduced opening will not make a difference in clogging. I’ve installed hundreds of reduced flanges into cast iron waste pipes. Meaning the iron pipe is 4-6 inches and I installed an expansion flange with a 3” opening. I’ve never had an issue with increased clogging.
99% of the time when a toilet clogs, it is the toilet that is clogging, not waste in the waste line. Has nothing to do with the flange. Also, the system described in the video is fastened down with screws, so there will be no gaps between the spacers and their flange, especially if you silicone between them.
Previous owners had tiled the bathrooms themselves. I noticed cracks in the toilet and decided to replace it. Removed old toilet and the flange is flush with the tiles. I put the new toilet on and there is a 1/4 inch gao in the front of toilet. If i get this will it fix that problem
Great video.Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material.
This is what I am curious about! Different plumbers say different things. Some say use spacers, some say double up the wax rings, so say don't just stack them but blend them, some say don't do that at all. UGH. What is the best way?
It does reduce the ID but it will not affect flow. The siphon tube in the toilet is the same size or smaller than the reduced flange ID. I’ve never had an issue with reduced flanges.
I set my flange on top of the floor and it squeezed the wax out and had a slight leak; so I would double check what he’s recommending.. I’m now having to cut a split the old flange, to replace and set it properly.
I set my flange on top of the tile then wax ring but it's still leak from overflow. I've done a few toilet but never had any issues. What did I do wrong?
one problem these days is, if you have a floating floor in your bathroom, you can set the flange on the floor because you cant screw through the finished floor...it needs to expand and contract
I'm having three new toilets installed (replacing old ones) and have hired a plumber to do it. I am an engineer and no doubt could do the "work" but because I know the value of industry/trade knowledge vs "DIY" knowledge, I feel better paying now and not 10x more later to fix my mistake. Even if I didn't make a mistake, I'd be watching it for years just knowing I did.
Im a plumber of 25 years and no not all flanges should be installed on top of floor....reason ? Some cheaper toilets and even a few quality toilets have very shallow bases and will sit on the flange causing it to rock..... there is no issue with installing the flange on sub floor.
4" Abs fitting accepts 4" pipe which accepts 3" fitting which accepts 3" pipe. You get in a closet ring JAM build your way out by cutting different pieces from different fittings and pipe.
The flange on the front left is not a lead bend, it is a brass flange ring which your wipe a lead bend to. I can see where a lead bend was cut off at some point. I have wiped the brass ring to lead in the past. Yes I've been a plumber for a long time. before we even had plastic pipe.....
I hate this kit. the spacers aren't 7 inches in diameter like a standard flange would be there too big around, and the yellow flange with that tail piece cuts off volume flow (chokes it down). Every time our sales dept( LOWES) supplies this, i opt to just stack the standard stackable flange adapters that are white and are 7 inches standard in dia, i just smear wax rings in between the flanges and compress. Everybodys got to reinvent the wheel. My wheels been rolling for 30 years doing tile floors and remodeling. Flush this kit. go back to the white pvc flange stackers that have worked forever.
This looks awesome. I like that there’s an actual gasket between the flange and the spacer. The other brand of spacers don’t have a gasket. But what if the flange is on a a concrete slab? Do you have anything for that? Thank you again, I truly cannot wait to try your product on the next job that requires a higher flange.
I had a toilet leak that couldnt be seen because it was leaking between the old and new tiles! PS that extender is way too narrow inside....make something with a bigger hole??
One thing I don't get it when he says to screw it on to the floor , I've seen others installing toilets videos and I don't see them screwing on the floor . They only only use the the fitting sleeves add glue on it ad the wax ring and then place down the toilet on it then they they secure the same toilet with the screws coming up from the underneath the flange....🇨🇦🇨🇦
Why wouldn't you install the 4in drain tall, cap it off till trim out and install the flange at the same time you install the toilet, which would be after the finished floor is done..
I am renovating two bathrooms on a 2nd floor townhouse where I had installed this product approx. six (6) years ago and when I removed the toilets today, I found the two-flange extender. I highly recommend this product as it worked perfectly for me. I never had any clogging or any flushing issues, if anything these two toilets have been the most reliable out off all my rental units.
Every time I roughed in a toilet for a new house or job I would ask the tile guy or carpenter what is going to be the finished height of the floor is it going to be a 1/2" or 3/4" higher etc. And most qualified plumbers do that !! Anyone who screws a toilet flange down to the sub floor does not know what they're doing . With that said every now and then you come across some rubegolberg or do it yourselfers, that tried to save some money ..... I think this is a great fix for that .... Nice !, but your premise is wrong that plumbers screw the flange down to the subfloors it's not code .
If the new owner comes in and decides to change the floor for something different, they’re stuck with whatever thickness of flooring (or thicker) is down unless they want to shim the toilet. That’s why you put the flange on the slab. He’s trying to sell a product that can be overcome with an extra high wax ring.
flange needs installed at rough, back in my production days we would do 10 to 25 houses at a time they werent sold or if they were who cares you aind going to know the flooring. go ask a carpenter give me break he dont speak english any how. Ive literaly screwed hundreds of them dow to the plywood floor. So no your premise is wrong your talking custom homes and Im talking hundreds of homes. yea yea in a perfect world you find out finish floor.
Jeff Y .. paaalease ... really you don’t talk to the other contractors?.. I’ve done thousands maybe 1, or two there wasn’t anyone around .. in that case you know their going to put in a floor most likely tile, so you automatically rough it in a 1/4-1/2” anyway ... check your code Einstein..
The flange is between 1/4 and 3/8 for a pvc flange. I completely ignore metal flanges because they are junk. Anyone who has done service work knows this. I’ve been doing it for 30 years and my first 20 years I probably did 300 houses a year in new construction. A tile floor is approximately 1/2 to 5/8 inch thick. A regular wax ring is plenty to fill this gap. And if one is in doubt you can get an extra thick wax ring or double it. This video is just a sales pitch. That’s all it is. Trying to cause worry When there shouldn’t be any.
Do you have a version that doesn't so significantly restrict the inner diameter of the final pipe? Seems unnecessary to drop all the way down to 3". Could cause a clog at the flange location which would expose the flange to high pressures when plunged.
You can use cement screw anchors with the stainless screws. I always use weather tight tapcons. Never had any corrosion issues with them. Much easier to place the flange, drill the holes and zip in some tapcons. Versus put the flange, mark holes, remove flange, drill over sized holes, put in anchors, put flange in, hope the holes line up, then screw in screws.
I’ve done a lot of building maintenance in my life and never have I ever seen a toilet flange sitting 1/2” to 3/4” below the floor. every flange I’ve seen has been level with the floor once a friend asked me to look at a toilet in a bathroom being remodeled And his toilet did not touch the floor at all. I removed the toilet from the flange and found the flange was on top of the floor I told him to remove the flooring under the flange, remove the flange and install a new flange level with the floor his toilet now sits level on the floor and functions properly.
Best way to set a flange is to cut 1/2 pex about and 1” in length and place them under the flange and screw the flange to the floor. That way the flange is in and the tile guy can’t screw you come finish time.
Unless you have the toilet in your hands and you can physically see the bottom of the toilet. DO NOT set flange on top of finished surface. There are so many toilet makers now and zero regulations on how far the toilet waste discharge opening is set above the surface of the bottom of the toilet. Meaning, if you flip over new or old toilets. and put a straight edge from mounting bolt to bolt. The bottom of of the toilet that actually touches the floor and the bottom of the toilet that discharges waste can vary from 1/4" to 5/8" higher than the floor surface. So when you set your 3/8 thick pvc toilet flange on top of the tile surface and you bought a cheap toilet that the waste discharge is only 1/4" above the finished surface, your screwed to say the least. Now you get to be one of those people that have a toilet with 1/2" of caulk under it, sitting on a pile of shims. Thats also why toilets flanges are screwed to the subfloor.
You are absolutely right. I've installed American Standard and Kohler and both required that the flange be flush with the floor... or very close to flush. Below the finished floor might be a problem at times but flush works very well.
Greetings all! What should the measurement be between the finished floor and the top of the flange? Or said differently, how high should the flange be above the floor? Thanks for your time!
Great video. Can you state the actual purpose of the wax ring? Since the underside of the flange pipe isn’t pressurized, (open to atmosphere), if the wax seal leaks, is it leaking from between the toilet funnel and wax ring, or the bottom of the wax ring and top of the flange. I would think it’s between the toilet funnel itself, and the wax seal against that porcelain funnel, since this is the only pressure, although very small.
Also ..... Think about when the toilet gets blocked and the water is reversing direction. Wax rings , as proven as they are, are less friendly, especially on a floor with a flange that's not high enough to begin with. Whatever system you devise, you've got to think about the plunging situation and will the system hold in reverse ! 🤔
Call me a glutton for punishment, but every remodel I've done I cut the flange out and put a new one at the correct height. I also screw them down. So many people don't for whatever reason. Even on concrete slabs, I do it. Grout the toilet if on tile or concrete, caulk if on sheet vinyl or plywood. I'm not a plumber but I've been taught by two and I've changed out a bunch of toilets over the years. I don't like gimmicky wax rings either. Just your plain jane wax ring. I've tried others and regretted it. My two cents. If you're a pro, I'm open to criticism for my own learning. Thanks.
