Just wondering if anyone has approached you to do a heavy duty 110 "military grade" vehicle? For many years have been pondering on buying-building a decent 4x4. Looking at a Hummve military version but I keep thinking back to the Bosnian conflict where these were like a big ass gal in a china shop, can't get through half the roads in mountain villages. Compare that to where you guys had no trouble getting through those same roads with that narrow gauge vehicle. The main issue is the chassis, unless one takes the time to swap out for a galvanized unit, it will be a continuos money pit patching rust outs. I like the custom work you do on those British vehicles!
They sure are GKN & Marsland Engineered They are made in an identical way to standard with the improvements we request including strength upgrades on the HD variants.
@@wearemahker thank you. GKN - but available from Marsland in original gauge and NOT galvanised? I prefer zinc rich paint or similar corrosion protection.
That's what I'm thinking as well, if you've got paint on it, it's less likely that a pebble or what have you, will chip it which in turn would allow for rust to settle in. I know that many people leave it as is, but if I went to such lengths as to swap a chassis, I would go the extra mile and throw primer and an undercoat as well. Unless someone can bring up any downsides!
@@maat8249 when I was younger I went to a Tech College to learn how to restore old cars. The instructor made a good point when he said 50 years ago if they would have had modern paints and primers they would have used them. Restoring an old car using old technology is just dumb. Do it the modern way. Galvanizing metal flakes off and looks like crap after the first year. I would research it and do it a better way.
@@esquire9445 Hi, Esquire. So what you are saying is: no harm in using primers and paints over galvanised metal, right? I still haven't heard of a contradicting opinion, and until then I will keep priming and painting galvanised parts that I buy. I just don't see the harm in it. I think some people leave the zinc bare to show it off, but I don't feel like it's worth the effort of swapping frames if you're not going to make absolutely sure it's bulletproof for a few decades at least. That's just my opinion and how I do things at the minute, not giving advice to anyone.
@@esquire9445 It's the same with engine oils. People still put semi synthetics and mineral oils in their 30yo engines just because that's what the manual calls for. But that's a different and complicated subject.
@@maat8249 I have not done any research on it so I don’t know. But I will say this… modern car manufacturers don’t leave any metal uncoated. Also, zinc looks like crap after a few years in the open. Another point I would make is nowadays people want to put waxy substances inside their frames to “protect it” but it seems that stuff traps water between the wax and frame and causes more problems than it solves. I would thoroughly research what to use before I did anything and I’m just not up to date.
When you do a chassis swap, does the new chassis have the same number as the previous one? If not, how does this affect the registration details of the car.
