For some reason this video has attracted a lot of negative comments lately. Rather than answer each comment individually, it is easier for me to pin this comment here and refer people to it. Firstly, this video was an entry in the RoughCut2022 video challenge in which RU-vid creators were asked to make a tool. I made a tool. It didn't win. I don't mind. I had fun making the tool. Secondly, yes, you can set a lathe tool by trapping a scale/rule between the tool tip and the work. But this is a fairly subjective method. It does work and I have used it but it is approximate. Thirdly, I acknowledge that this tool is overly complicated but it does work, it is accurate and a similar version is made and sold by Edge Precision. Fourthly, I am not asking people to buy it and I only ever made two of them, one of which was given away as a subscriber gift. I wanted to make something nice for the gift which is one reason why I spent a lot of time finishing it. Fifthly, I like making things and finishing them well. I enjoy using processes like anodising, CNC engraving and bead blasting. If you don't want to use those processes, you don't need to and the tool will still work perfectly. Sixthly (is that even a word?) I wanted to showcase some techniques which may not be widely known for makers who watch RU-vid. Even if you don't want to make a lathe tool setter, you might still see a technique that you could adapt to a different project. I hope this answers a lot of common questions. Regards, Mark Presling
you make what works for you if you enjoy making it and it works as it is supposed to then, anyone complaining is forgetting the first rule it's not their problem. By the way your finished product looked very well made and finished very impressed.
You look to be of an age where we did things simply, yet... You've developed an unnecessarily complicated tool for a simple task. The simplest ways are best...What we did was interpose a (straight) steel rule between the tool tip and the workpiece (I'd use a straight plastic rule, now, carbides tending to be brittle by comparison with HSS, or interpose a plastic pad between my hard steel rule and the tool tip), having got the tool up to something approximating the lathe spindle centreline. the rule then lies at a tangent to the workpiece. If the rule is vertical, the tool is at centre height. If the rule top is nearer the operator, the tool's below centre, and vice versa... Imagine... You're on a big Swift (or other) lathe, with an 8 foot diameter cast iron cylinder mounted in it... you have no means of getting to the tailstock after a tool swap or regrind... even if there's no workpiece in place, do you want to move the toolpost 4 feet to get a tool on centre? No, you get a rule out of your box (or top pocket) and interpose it between tool tip and workpiece, when it's loaded... Works with LH, RH, and upside down tools Not criticism, by the way, merely an observation... The old Cincinnati tool and cutter grinders came with a centre height setting tool as standard equipment, used for setting cutter teeth on centre before grinding, and, they could be used to set a tooth on centre whether it was pointing up or down, and to set the wheelhead spindle centreline relative to the workhead or centres... Same simple tool... Something similar or even simpler could be used on a little lathe like yours...
The last time I used a lathe was at school 63yrs ago! I always love watching professionals at work with lathes, it’s an obsession with me. Learning it helped me at work, 37yrs in the ambulance service, it helped me know a bit of what they were talking about when I was patching them up! 😅. Brilliant video.
Thank you. A lot of people misunderstood the purpose of this tool and the reasons I had for making it. There are simpler ways of setting lathe tools to correct height but I wanted to demonstrate some procedures and processes that can be carried out in the home workshop and the tool was a good way of doing it. However I made two. One was given away as a gift and I keep the other one next to my lathe. I use it often and it just works. I am glad you appreciated the content for what it was. Regards, Mark
Several people have asked I intend to make any of these tools for sale but the answer is no. I doubt I could make them at a competitive price and there are similar tools on the market anyway. However if you would like to make your own, I have included a link in the description which will allow you to download a PDF version of the 2D drawings. The tool body doesn't need to be made of aluminium. I good quality 3D print in PETG or carbon fibre filament would be fine. A resin print would be even better. The only requirement is that the two setting screws can be adjusted and locked and that the top and bottom mounting surfaces for the spirit bubble levels be parallel to each other.
Thinking about this a bit and I don't even think the top and bottom surfaces need to be parallel since they are not really used at the same time, each level is really only referenced to the adjustment screw (which should be perpendicular to the level). Since each side is calibrated only between a single level and the adjusting screw for that side being parallel to the opposite side it nice, and pretty, but not a requirement. Please correct me if I am wrong. I love this project and the presentation you made of it.
Well executed machining and complete finishing process of doing not only this tool (which is well thought out) but any tool or part from cradle to grave. I'm retired from 50 years engineering, still active in my own shop. I have continually learned and asked questions from others like yourself for better, easier, more logical ways to improve our craft. Great job Mark, I like the tool and your build execution.
Thanks for that. I enjoyed making that tool and although it's a bit over the top, I still like to use the processes that enhance the finished product. I guess it's a case of being able to justify the expense of purchasing tools and materials. If you don't use them regularly, it's a bit of a waste.
Another work of art. Very clever concept indeed. The copper pad inserts are a great way to hold things from moving. Another trick to bung in the 'Handy Ideas' folder. Thanks as always for sharing this Mark. Cheers from N.Z 👍
Beautiful job! I love the purple/green contrast. Glad to see someone engraving through the anodising. This is a technique I conceived myself some 47 years ago (don't know if anyone had done it previously) but with pantograph v groove engraving through black anodising for an audio amplifier panel. I had the black anodising done professionally for me, perfectly prepared to pay but despite trying (and succeeding) to black anodise some fine aluminium mesh (car filler support mesh!) for the air vent, AND doing the case cover they were happy to do it all free, they just wanted to see the result afterwards. They'd never tried anodising mesh so fine and were concerned it might all dissolve - it didn't! So some 47 years later how does it look? Wish RU-vid allowed pics in posts, but suffice to say it STILL looks pristine and the engraved aluminium, despite being exposed to air for all that time is STILL shiny. Anyone who knows how to anodise and has a CNC engraver should try this. The results are superb. I didn't have access to glass bead blasting back in the day, but instead just used fine wet & dry (1200?? - LONG time ago) and gave the ali a brushed look prior to anodising. Today I'd use a fine Scotchbrite pad or locate a glass bead blaster (I love that matte finish)! Not sure I'd go to the lengths you have to produce such a tool but having a 3D printer and not a Mill 😢😢 I might try it at some point. Before that though, my VERY recently acquired, bargain priced, Myford ML2 has to be completely refurbed & restored, together with a large format, heavy duty pillar drill (70mm column!).
Thanks Bob. I must say it has taken a lot of experimentation to get repeatable results with the home anodising. As you have found, the finish is very durable. What I only found out recently was that the PH of the dye can vary quite a lot and if it is too alkaline, it won't take very well or at all. I purchased a digital PH meter and found that some dyes were PH 9! A few drops of hydrochloric acid got it down again though. There's always more to learn.... Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 thanks for that! Highly useful tip. AND, at the moment, 36% Hydrochloric acid is perfectly legal in the UK so a simple PH meter can solve that problem for me too hopefully, although using Sodium Bisulphate may require a different PH or not even be bothered! We shall see! 👍👍👍
Mark, I generally don’t comment on some of the larger RU-vid channels. Seems like they already get enough comments to keep them busy responding. But I do want to say your work is always very impressive, and I enjoy every minute of it. In this field was no exception. Thanks for sharing. Gary
Gee, thanks Gary. I wouldn't put myself in the "larger" category but it's nice that you deem me worthy. I feel guilty sometimes watching the Tom Lipton's and Stefan Gotteswinter''s of this world and not commenting for the same reason. When are we going to do a sticker swap? Regards, Mark
Another great project and nicely finished as usual. The finish you achieve (anodizing, powder coating etc) really make your work stand out. I did miss the usual banter though.
I’m most impressed with how well the rest of his tools are set up, feed rates and everything. I have to agree there are much easier ways of finding center and making a tool to set up your machine so that it makes everything good and correct but you don’t have machines that are set up good and correct yet.
There is at least one bubble level based center adjusting tool I've seen but this one seems like a functional alternative. At first I thought that the adjustments went haywire when changing from tailstock to spindle but then my brain went on a thinking mode (rarely do) and I realized that the two measuring surfaces are actually equal. I think the best way to calibrate this tool is to do the calibration with a tool whose cutting surface is upwards. Just do the calibration both in tailstock and in the chuck without changing the tool. Then it is easier to access the adjusting screw as well. Cheers, Esko.
Why didn't I think of that? Since I finished the two tools and the video I have not actually used them. One is to be kept unused for the give away but the other is sitting by the lathe waiting until I return home. We are actually in New Zealand at the moment and we left just after the tools were finished. The design I came up with is a bit like the Edge Precision lathe tool setters. However, as far as I know they don't make one that will do both regular tools and inverted tools. Regards, Mark
Hello Mr Pressling, most would consider the job done after milling (and chamfering) work. But from the point of view of a professional, the work is only over when the result looks convincing. As a layman, I would never put so much effort into the finishing. You have my utmost respect.
I like it. Unfortunately a lot of people thought it was over done and too complex but it doesn't have to be anodised and it doesn't even need to be made of metal. Acetal or acrylic would be fine for the body. It could even be 3D printed. Regards, Mark
Love it, my problem is the quick change holder is a bit inaccurate and the tool tip can be a bit off depending how one holds it when clamping. This sorts that and its on my lets make one list. Brilliant!
Thar was fun! I wondered about the Edge setting tool, mainly for the tiny carbide boring bars I use, which are 1.7 mm diameter, but I also need to set up 0.5 mm pitch threading inserts which are at steep angles. I think a modified version of your tool with a larger radius and smaller tip might work really well. Also, the colour is fabulous.
Thanks. I really should get some of those little carbide boring bars. I have seen Joe Pi using them and I get very jealous. I have about 8 different colours of anodisng dye but that violet colour is my favourite. I only found out recently that the PH of the dye is really important. I bought myself a PH meter and found out that half my dyes were way to alkaline. A few drops of hydrochloric acid gets them back into range and the parts colour up nicely. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 pH of the dye is interesting, I must have a check of this blue dye to see what it's acidity is. The Simtek tools are excellent although I think it's possible to grind them from scratch using a Deckel or similar. I made my own holders and the little boring bars last ages unless you do something brutal. Like knocking the carriage handwheel...
Quickest and easiest way to find the centre line of the tool. Spin the tool post around and set the tip to the point of the tailstock centre. Works every time, no tool needed! Also in the UK we call the projection a 'Pip'... great video as always Mark
That's how we used to do it at school. However, once you spin the tool post you lose your reference on the DRO. I wish I had one of those fancy schmancy multifix tool holders but an old cheapskate like me finds them a bit too pricey. Regards, Mark
How we have done it at work: take an aluminium-sheet. Put it on the cross-slide. Make a mark with the tailstock centre. Saw on the mark and make the sheet to look as a "Z". There is the correct hight. We have made them from aluminium, made one last thursday (took about five minutes). With a good bandsaw one could make it in Aisi316 to last"forever". The inserts slowly destroys the aluminium edge so be prepared to make a new every 15-20 years 🤭🤣...
Spinning tbe tool around assumes 2 things, which can be incorrect: A) the toolpost is vertical, hence doesn"t change height B) the tailstock is vertically centered.
Very impressive tool, in my apprenticeship were taught to touch the toolbit onto our 6inch rule against the surface of the work piece. The rule gives a quick indication of offset either side of centre
Excellent design and manufacture 👏✔🧐. Certainly more versatile than many crossslide height setters. Again brilliant work and photography. Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John.
Thanks. The prototype had only one bearing but the body of the tool wobbled about like a drunken sailor. Also, I cheaped out and bought Chinese skate bearings. Bad idea! I originally laughed when I heard that saying, "buy once, cry once". Now I understand what it means. Regards, Mark
I made one in 10 minutes. Screwed two plates on top of a pillar to be placed on the cross slide. The two plates look like an open scissors offering two surfaces for a normal tool and an inverted tool. No need to mount on any chuck which can be available unused or not. No need for late leveling. (the lathe may be free of twist but not necessarily level) Pop the "Gauge" on the cross slide, wherever the slide happens to be, no movement. m Move the tool older up or down for a rough adjustment and trim with the tool older adjusting knob to exact height. Done in 7.4 seconds. The tool presented has one advantage: The same gauge will work on any of the seven different lathes you own.
I already have a small tool setter made from injection moulded plastic. It looks like something that would be given away on a trade stand or machinery show. It works and it's surprisingly accurate but you have to hold it with one hand while setting the tool height. I guess what I made was unnecessarily complex but it was a nice thing to make and to give away as a gift. Regards, Mark
I enjoyed this as it showcased a lot of thought and techniques in machining, plating etc. As a wise man once said " those that can, DO and those that can't, WHINGE"
Thank you. I appreciate that you saw the video for what it was. I did want to showcase some techniques and processes that I use regularly and that maybe some people haven't had the chance to try yet. It's all about sharing. Regards, Mark
@Preso58 Hi Mark I've got an old Aussie made Advance Lathe which I've tinkered with over the years. It's a small model makers lathe, but I've recently picked up an old Harrison 13x40 and planning to do more substantial projects. Channels like yours provide a lot of common-sense instruction. Take me back to my days at tech in Ballarat back in the 70s. I'm now interested in Anodising aluminium after watching your work. Thanks again.
Thanks, normally I would explain as I go but all that got edited out when I realised that I was working to a 30 minute video length. Thanks for watching to the end. Regards, Mark
I have always used the ruler method. A small diameter rod in the chuck and a 6" ruler. Bring the tool up to the rod, pinching the ruler between them, then adjust your tool height so that the ruler is dead plumb. Simple but accurate.
That absolutely works and I have used it myself but I wanted to make something nice to give away as a prize. I will be doing an announcement with details of the give away soon. Regards, Mark
That is a wonderful tool! I'm not a machinist, I watch @Cutting Edge Engineering Australia regularly and you showed up in my feed, and I have to say I'm glad you did, I'm now subscribed to two machining channels!
I too am a fan of Cutting Edge Engineering. What he does is scary and spectacular at the same time. Watching him parting off a 200mm chunk of high strength steel on power feed is "exciting". Regards, Mark
Thanks, but I must say it has taken a long time to get consistent results. I only found out recently that you need to check the PH of the dye. If it's too alkaline, it won't work well, or at all. Also, if you don't rinse all the electrolyte off the part, you will get bare patches where the dye won't penetrate. Regards, Mark
way cool bud,new subscriber here,thanks for sharing,im a old back busted trucker with not much to do so im impressed with these videos.keep up the good work and thanks for sharing....cheers from north carolina usa
Very good. You must write out, in your best handwriting, “I must not remove swarf curls while the lathe is turning!” 100 times. I want to see it at the start of your next project!
Nice job Preso. However I sometimes find I need to check heights half way through a job with the job in the chuck and with either a tool or live centre in the tailstock. I use your old tool concept with a simple machined steel cylinder with a sharp top edge. Just use a finger nail to check for level. No need to worry about upsetting DRO settings if you use a 40 position European style tool holder. They fit back into postion very accurately.
John, I would very much like to own a multifix tool post. Unfortunately they are a bit rare and expensive out here in the colonies. The old style tool height setter works very well but you have to think ahead and get the tools all set before you start the job. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark Thanks for the reply. I also live in one of the penal colonies - up the road a bit. Luckily my lathe came standard with a 40 position holder.
Gday Preso, what a brilliant idea, I think I best be making one myself, the anodising really finishes the tool off nice with the engraving, awesome job as always mate and congratulations on clicking over 30k subscribers, Cheers
It probably seems a bit like overkill but I have one that was given to me that only has one bubble level so it wont' do inverted tools. It has a 90 degree vee notch which you have to hold against a cylindrical surface while you adjust the tool height. It is made of injection moulded plastic and it sort of needs three hands to use easily. Regards, Mark
Thanks Craig. I was very fortunate to have one of Joe Pi's T shirts sent to me and one of his CNC machined mill skill testing plates. I have a half baked plan to challenge Aaron Powter to a race on the Bridgeport. Could be an "egg on face" situation but it should be a laugh too. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 nothing wrong with making a tool to make things easier. The ruler method does work but it's not as easy or convenient. And I've dropped my scale in the chip tray enough for one lifetime 🤣
Damn, that's a handy tool to have... all I need now is a lathe, a horizontal mill, a belt sander, some bits and bops , some metal stock,...😅 just have fun! Thanks for sharing, a couch like to watch metal worker (hahaha)
We don't have nightingales here in Australia. It might have been a butcher bird or a magpie though. The butcher bird has a beautiful song. Unlike the sulphur crested cockatoos which are just raucous and screechy! Regards, Mark
That's brilliant. I'd like to suggest a much simpler way though. Chuck up some stock, turn it to whatever diameter, basically a clean up pass. Measure the diameter with your micrometer or calipers. Bring your tool up close to the end of the part and use a depth micrometer or the depth feature on your vernier to adjust up or down as you know the radius of the part. Much simpler 👍 do love your videos though Mark cheers from Melbourne
I know. Gross, isn't it. Strangely enough, the accident that caused such a blemish on my beautiful fingers was fairly underwhelming. It didn't hurt at the time but the next day it was kicking butt. Regards, Mark
Presso, RotarySMP gave you and your Titon 60 a shout out and screen time in his last video "Who needs a cylindrical grinder?" at timestamp 7:55. He was visiting the Craftsmanship Museum near San Diego, CA. I always knew you were world famous! I love your work and you have very much sparked my interest in machining. I look forward to all your videos. Thank you so much from Chaska, MN. If you ever would like a shop cleaner or better yet an apprentice... I have plane fare saved. : }
Thank you for those kind words. I did watch RotarySMP's video and was surprised that he found the Titan worthy of mention. I am very grateful that I got the opportunity to work on the Titan project. It really extended my knowledge and skill set. I think it is very important to take on projects that are just outside your comfort zone. You may have noticed that I had a few failures and setbacks but that's an essential part of learning. As a (former) educator, I encourage everyone to try to learn something new every day. Regards, Mark
I just bnb use my thin blade 6" scale. I pinch it between the work and the tool and adjust the tool until the scale is vertical. 40+ years never went wrong.
I have used that method and it works but I think you missed the point of the video which was to make something nice as a gift for a viewer and also to demonstrate some techniques like drag engraving and anodising. Regards, Mark
I have to use shims to set my height for my tooling in my lathe, altho this video was not helpful to my situation it looks like a fun project and I will be making one soon, thank you.
I used shims for more years than I care to remember but the "set and forget" method which utilises quick change toolholders and insert style tooling becomes very attractive if you can afford such luxuries. The tool height setter is another luxury but there are simpler methods of achieving the same result. Regards, Mark
That is a good idea. A rubber band wrapped around the tool tip and the setting tool will work too. I did consider magnetising the setting screws but that would almost certainly magnetise the tool tip as well which would be a bit of a nuisance. Regards, Mark
Nor had I until about three years ago. I have two but the one that I bought from Boring Research is the easiest to use. The carbide point is held in by a magnet so it won't accidently drop out of the spindle. The good thing is that you don't have to worry about having your part exactly level. Regards, Mark
For the roughcut challenge a wonderful entry! It does seem a bit overly complicated to me though. I have a stunningly simple method: I use my height gauge. For calibration take a piece of round bar, halve the outer end in the mill, put it in the lathe’s chuck, measure the height of the flat from the crossslide’s surface with the heigh gauge and write the numbers down. When setting any tool, set the height gauge to the “calibrated” height, lock it and use it to adjust the tip of the tool accordingly. Works every time. Advantage: works even when your workpiece is already in the chuck 😉 Disadvantage: it is a lousy entry in the roughcut challenge 😂
It's the old "horses for courses" thing. I am sure there are dozens of ways to do the same job. I badly wanted to buy one of the Edge Precision tool setters but they are very expensive here in Australia and I am not sure if they will do inverted tools. You are correct though. I was looking for a topic for the roughcut hashtag and this one fitted the brief. Regards, Mark
