shop Dirt Perfect www.dirtperfec... www.dirtperfec... Trying to get the truck build under way spetn the better part of a month shopping and rounding up parts its a fun ride. #dirtperfect #truckortrack #custombuild #truckbuild
I sure do appreciate the "road trips"! This helps everyone know what it takes to get things put together for any project, even though you are not able to record everything. I considered how to make the frame strong and fail safe. "thinking out loud". I would leave the inside u-channel in and add over the full outside bigger u-channel to length and then add the difference on the inside, offsetting the joints, Bolting and/or welding everything together. "IF" the welding of smaller pieces penetrate fully, then you should have a solid frame rail. Just thinking out loud. When I catch up with the actual lengthening, will see what you literally did.
The great thing about watching you do a project like this, is that I get to enjoy it all coming together without getting tired, dirty, and greasy (or frustrated when I have to re-do what I just spent hours doing). Thanks for sharing.
When I built my dump body i used box tubing completely welded and oil filled. There’s no lip for dirt to sit . It’s just smooth. Took 11 rolls of .035 to weld up all the seams . I know you already did the frame but I usually get all grade 100 frame rails custom made by Adams in Vermont. They ship them to you . They just make frame rails !
Thanks for the update. Can’t wait to see the finished product. Great to see the collaboration with the experts and vendors and the work that goes into it. MBTS is going to have to shine on his part. Way to shine MBTS.
Offset the frame cuts so you can get a full pen weld on frame rails and you need the add a cross member and don't forget to fish plate the inside rail after welding .we stretched a lot of frame for over the road and never had d.o.t. problems
DP, great ideas, buying what you want new rather than altering something used. The time and effort you save as well as money in the long run. Remember time is money. Great job the project is starting to come together.
Hi Mr DP, what a double act with Todd, you could take that routine on air with any prime time TV show. Perfect by name and presentation, thank you for uplifting a dull winters day on this side of the 'pond' . Maybe the addition of MBTS and you have five star-plus rating. Thank you.
I do a lot of concrete demolition. My dump truck bed floor got bent between crossmembers and was so rough the I couldn't keep dirt from sticking and building up so bad you had to scrape it out every other load. Over 10 years ago I cut the floor out and put in a double floor with marine plywood between the steel sheets. Works very well and has very few dents in it to this day and dirt just slides right out. Might be something for you to consider.
Hey Mike I've had trucks with barn doors, they are a pain in the ass,drivers dont like them when they get tweaked then you fight getting them shut, high lift tail gate is worth the money. Going to be an awesome truck😀👍
You're 100% right, Outlaw... Barn doors are nothing but trouble, over time. Been there, and driven that... never again. High lift tailgate is a lot less aggravation. Might cost a little bit more to do that way, but the time SAVED over the life of the dump body more than makes up the difference.
Check out the forum Steel soldiers. A lot of people “Bob” these 6x6 and turn them into 4x4. They cut off the frame. Someone might give you the cut-off pieces. They will also will know what type metal it is. Good luck with the forum it will bring you down an endless rabbit hole. Steve
I've had a 3 way barn door dump, hydraulic highlift and air highlift. All have their advantages and disadvantages. For ease of operation and repair I prefer the air highlift. No need to hit the pto to open it, and when you spring a leak on the hoses you're not pissing fluid all over the place and the hoses are cheaper to repair. The disadvantage to the air is it is slightly slower to lift than hydraulic, but it isn't a big deal. I have hauled 6 foot boulders with all 3 styles and they all handled the material well. If you do go for highlift, make sure you get the longer lift arms for better clearance when the door is open.The barn door advantage comes into play with stuff like sticks or logs that would typically snag on a highlift. You can also haul a machine in the truck box easier with a barn door. I hate having to get out of my truck to undo rear gates though.
Ox Body, They make some TOUGH stuff! I ran an end dump hauling scrap steel. The Hard OX bed held up decently with that abrasive material being hauled daily. Them high lift gates are FABULOUS! I know of a company locally that runs them on ALL of their dump trucks. They like the versatility of them. You can stack a whole load of light material in the bed, & it will fall out of the truck. I've ran them hilift gates with a load of yard waste, & it easily came out of the box. I WOUOLDN'T have been able to dump it out with a standard gate! Gotta 💖love them heated coats! I LOVE my camouflaged Milwaukee heated coat. There's nothing like sitting in a hunting blind sweating, while you watch everybody else shivering! This is going to be a bad Ar$e customized dump truck once you get er did! If you manage to get thing stuck then there's NOT a vehicle that'll get through that terrain! I'm 🧡loving💖 this custom build project, & am anxious to 👀see the progress on this AWESOME build!
Something you might try if the cab has thin paint, easy off oven spray. Let set about 15/20 minutes & power wash the paint off, will not hurt aluminum or glass. Its a lot cheaper than blasting. I guess the reason the MBTS is such a great welder is because he has welded so many mirror brackets back on, lol
Corten steel is the same stuff shipping containers is made of. You also may see it on bridges that look like they are all rusty and not coated. It oxidizes and seals, kind of like aluminum. If you have dug up restrained watermain, you may notice the threaded rods and t-bolts look really rusty, it would be Corten.
I have stretched many trucks over the years. It is a lot more work, but find another truck and cut enough frame off the back to give your length then weld to your frame. Take bolts out of your suspension and slide back, to get a 16' box you will not have to move back much. The suspension may still be on the original frame or partly off. Either way the joint will be in an area that has much less stress than the center. Bonus, only one splice to worry about. Yes it is more work, but you will have no trouble with the splice
Ok.... Just a couple of thoughts.....1) Don't be hating on Tennessee snow! Some of us would love to get more if the man above would allow it!...Haha! 2) Love the thin blue line flag in the shop... Just noticed it on this video... But we really appreciate your support... Holler at ya!
Todd’s axle would make a great tie off for a trot line in the river!!! Now about that framework you have to do... wouldn’t it be easier if you could just rent a frame stretcher? The rental store keeps them right next to the blinker fluid testers and the Volkswagen radiator pullers. 🤓
Mr. dirt perfect what a very informative video .I earned a lot about dump bodies and what kind of floors and steel on steel dimensions and a lot of things...... I hope there’s not gonna be a test on it....Because I’ll get stuck with me and behind the scenes,,, captain claiming it myself in detention......... can’t wait for the man behind the scenes to get his thoughts and his welding rod out,,,, To get rocking and rolling on the truck,,,,,, very interesting video keep up the great work junkman do
Mike, Corten steel is a trademark name for a type of weathering steel. U.S. Steel holds that trademark. Usually it is A588 or similar. Under normal applications, it is used for architectural purposes because of the rust appearance. I'm a sculptor as a profession and use it in some of my outdoor works. It's tricky as the filler metal also has to be compatible.
Save the pull points or raid the local concrete company scrap /retired truck chassis area . The factory Paystar tow points are rated at the extreme duty level.Note how they came off and install the same way NO SHORT CUTS!!! Front or rear.
@Dirt Perfect I built a truck like that. It's my favorite toy. I mean truck lol. It's a 4x4 international 1854. Has the same military tires. Lifted. I love it. Use it as a fifth wheel to tow my twenty ton hydro boat trailer and I installed a knuckle boom on it as well.
Great video, looking forward to seeing the next episode in this series. I’ve heard a plasma cutter is nearly a perfect side hustle in a box, not that you have any extra time available. Had a coworker who’s dad bought one on a whim because he liked them and turned it into a well paying part time job disposing of gas cylinders for all the local municipalities in his county. He reclaims the gas, sells what he doesn’t use himself, purges and cuts them in two and sells the metal for scrap, after being paid to haul them away. Just an idea but have you ever considered making an ICF subterranean vault outside of the house and moving the compressor there. The tinnitus in my ears begs me to suggest this every time I see your wife or kids in the shop while it’s running. Stay safe, wishing you and your family the best.
The drop axle is as Todd said is called a tag axle meant to be mounted behind the drive axles, you want what they call a pusher axle, but since you are making the frame longer it may be easier to use tag axle at the rear. that trucks gona be a beast.
He's not extending the rear frame behind the wheels though. He's cutting the frame in half and adding a section between the wheels and the cab to have a place to mount the lift axle. So I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. Unless he made the lift axle where it raised up above the back of the bed so he could dump the axle would be in the way being behind the tandems. It can be done and is done but that's getting expensive to make a lift axle like that for what he wants to use the truck for. I don't think that would work with a barn door tailgate either. He wants an offroad truck that he can drive on the road occasionally if he needs to so he doesn't have to have two trucks on a job. I think that's what he has said anyway. I might be wrong about that and I might be interpreting what you've said wrong too but I think that's what he is after. Tell me if I'm wrong and misunderstood you. 👍
A new dump bed is what I would do, but it is always easier to spend your money rather than mine. I cannot believe where this build will end up, but it will be awesome.
Corten or A588 is weathering steel . It rusts some much and stops no need to paint it .Here in the east it is used on highways , like the New JERSEY TURNPIKE .
I've had a plasma cutter for 25 years , actually my third and best one now. Hypertherm is by far better than the others. Most of the better plasma tables will have these on them.
Tag Axle usually straight lot of them come with steerable linkage. Tag goes behind drives. Pusher axle goes in front bent to clear driveline, most do not like them steerable. Stagger cuts on frame , not straight line cut. There are you tube videos out there to help guide you. Crysteel did make some nice boxes. Delivered bunch in the 90'for them.
Might be too late, but I would suggest an airlift gate. Barndoors are okay until they aren't, if the wind catches the door you are on your butt or getting sandwiched between the bed and the door. It hurts by the way. Even as heavy as I am at 275lbs those doors win every time. As skinny is Mr Millennial and Kleenman are if they don't let go of the chain they are going for a ride, or they ain't getting the gate closed without turning the truck into the wind. I know you don't get as much wind as Wyoming does, but a good gust could still lead to broken ribs. This is still going to be an awesome truck, and I am looking forward to seeing it get built.
If it was my truck I would make the tailgate two way. Swing at the top and pull a pin or two and it swings at the side. Looking like you are doing an awesome job on this truck. Can't wait to see it finished
Look at airlift tailgates, we have them on our trucks and they're awesome, I have never had anything get hung up in the bed and we haul trees and brush all the time
Most definitely go with a high lift tailgate. I personally know it's alot more $ but in the long run I think you will really be surprised how much time it saves and how much you'll like it. Soooooo much easier and you dont have to get out and do anything 😉. Just my 2 cents... Good luck on the build !!! I can hardly wait myself 😎👍.......Sent from TN , home of the 7 snow plows 🤭😂🤣.
Hi there, i've just glass grit blasted my aluminium, paystar 5070 6x6 cab. No problem if you use a superfine grit 0.2 to 0.7mm, and you know what you are doing. All the best from the UK
Barn door not such a great idea. Go for standard tailgate that can be removed with locks. Cannot wait for the video to see the transformation of the truck. Cheers Mike We are waiting for next video.
Tell you what, you and my son Joshua would get along just fine with all those snacks, McDonald’s, and Pepsi, you’re well stocked up for your road trips!! Your passion for shopping is very apparent 👍🇺🇸
Big project , but it looks like you have your ducks in a row . Gonna be an awesome off-road dump truck . Keep us informed Mike . Great video as always .
Nice, Look's like I nailed it, on what you were gonna do, well on the stretching part... I do love these behind the work video's.. I know in real time, the truck is probably close to being done, can't wait to see it in use.. That truck reminds me of a Oshkosh it's a "All wheel drive" military truck.. Loved this episode of the "Dirt Perfect Saga" It was educational, entertaining & fun to watch...
Crysteel truck bodies and hoist founded in my hometown!!! Eldon Jones formed the company and started it on his farm... The family sold the business some years ago, but still manufacturing them here..
You are going to love that plasma cutter. I'll bet you end up with a better one. Purchased one when they first came out, we got the small one, two months later we got the big one...
brinell hardness test will help determine grade of frame material , or take a grinder and watch sparks to assist determined grade . some steel background is required ..that's the quick and dirty method .. core 10 material is used for bridge girders , will surface rust then stop , do not paint it .... Ironworker / Inspector Cleveland .
Cor-Ten is a trade name for weathering steel. Designated as A588, it is indeed used for bridge construction as the outer oxide layer (rust) forms a barrier to prohibit further deterioration. It is also commonly used in architectural design as the rust "patina" can be very appealing. I would imagine the corrosion resistance to be a benefit for truck frames.
Looking good on the 6 x 6. I'm liking the high lift tail gate though. The lift axle should work, since all it needs to clear is the drive shaft, if you leave the transfer case where it is.
You can't use that pallet wood to make a template Mike. That is especially true if you are going to cut out the U section. It 'might' stay stable right after you cut it, (but probably not). It will for sure change when you take it outside and when it gets to the other shop that is going to have different humidity and temperature to your shop. You need to use decent quality plywood with lots of plies (layers). At the very least, screw a temporary strap across the U gap to hold it stable. Also measure that gap and write it on the timber so it can be checked later on. It will move though. - that is 100% - so if you can make it again out of good quality plywood, you'll save your self and the metal shop some grief. You could also look at free CAD software like SketchUp. It is easy to use and there are LOTS of tutorial videos on RU-vid. SketchUp would also make it way way easier test alignment and fit for that lift axle. You don't need to make an elaborate drawing of the axle. Just the essential parts. You'd find SketchUp a huge benefit with any sort of fabrication project, and a huge time saver.
just for kicks.. you might enjoy this video of a shop doing some additional frame layers to a brand new hino truck.. start at 11 minutes.. "New truck braking in pakistan and rebuilding full video". its hard to count.. if they went from double frames to at least 5 frames. you may not want to see what they did at the end to dress it up. but he frame and suspension upgrades are terrific.. there is another video in their series that show a visit to the frame rail fab shop..
As others have commented, putting the tag axle on the back of the truck would be much easier than cutting frame behind cab and stretching out,,wouldn't have to mess with changing driveline length, clearances of drive shaft when fully flexing axles when off road,or placement of hoist assembly to clear top of transfer case behind cab. I've never been a fan of cutting and fish plating a section of frame between engine and drive axles,there's alot of torsional stress in that area, and adding two more joints in the frame seems to be counterproductive. Putting the tag axle at the rear, you have one frame joint,if can and should be over built anyways,for the dumpbox pivots, and you can adjust how much overhang at the rear for protection of pintle hitch or lights and wiring when dumping load,or if you plan on towing a trailer with your off road beast!! But it's your toy so how you choose to accessorize is your decision!!! Good luck😎😎
Just food for thought when we make trucks longer to haul poles we add on to the back of the truck then move the rear ends back instead of cutting the frame in the middle.
