Router Lifter || 3D Printed 

18 likes but NO! Do not use graphite lubricant on PLA or any other plastics. For plastic is the silicone- or the lithium grease are the proper lubricants. Or candle wax

@@dekurvajo or ptfe filled lubricant, even ptfe tape for threads, if tolerances allow...but yes, silicone is where it's at :)

I use Fusion 360. In Direct Modeling mode almost exclusively. History kills creativity 😉

Thank you, thats the final goal of all projects on this channel

Thank you very much!

thank you, Im working on it, gonna be one of the extensions I want to test on this one before building proper router table, I wanna try to connect vacuum also to that red part that closes router I think that way it can be more efficient, dont know if its feasible yet)))

спасибо, вывод на пылесос: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xHchbPS8pvc.html

And also: is it really so hard to fabricate from wood/metal using existing hardware? It isn't but I can imagine the fun in this as well. Need a printer xD

I disagree, ABS and PETG have good durability, but PLA has better strength. It does have an issue with temperature tolerance and creep though, however I don't think that will be a huge issue in this design. Perhaps if he's using the router under high load/long duration.

PLA is totally sufficient for this kind of use. None of these parts will reach more than 45-50 C° it it goes above this, you have bigger problem than the PLA itself.

@@b5a5m5 and that's why this is a hobby, home-grade tool, not industrial. Totally agreed

If its not gonna burn your hand it wont kill the plastic

@@burkjavel PLA will slowly deform in the sun on a warm day, it only needs 40-45C for it to begin to lose shape.

Would ABS be a better job for around the parts that get warm, and the top plate that sees the most sun?

@@LeeHalford there is a middle ground between PLA and ABS... PETG. PETG filament (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol), is a co-polyester known for its durability and ease of use. PETG is perfect as it combines strength and ductility, which is why it's used in so many mechanical parts and robotics. It has great chemical resistance with good water, acidic and alkalic resistance.

Yes, I think the structure of flyingbear Reborn is very stable. If you close the top of the machine, you can also print ABS.

I am in no way related but I want to try giving an estimate (please feel free to answer) : Give his experience and the design - Design : 1-2h - Printing : 8-12h (if things went really bad) - Assembling : 2-4h (depending on if takes brake or doing on several occasions) - Total : 11-18h would be my estimate

Whoa! I would guess more like 20-30h design. So many details, versions and decisions to be specified!

@@dejv123 You might be closer to the truth!

If I should guess: Initial Design: 30-50h Design Revision (each): 5-10h It also depends on the possibility to work the full day on the design or after work.

Thank you for the question It took around 7 hours to design first option 8:47, for the final model I would say 10 days in total might be more, testing different connections and trying different gaps is what takes the most time, in addition being new to such designs as locks mechanisms, gears and even testing thickness of the wall adds a lot of time overall I would say -Design: 10 days (80 hours) -Printing (only final design): 2days 9 hours 43 minutes -Assembling (no woodworking)：15 minutes

What you would recommend to use instead of PLA?

Hello, its makita 7.9mm router bit , D-59617

Those screws are for future extensions like upcoming exhaust system, for now they dont have any function you can just remove them

thank you, sure dm me in instagram and I will send you , scripts are mostly very basic just using points and curves to create simple shapes then use boolean tools to get final shape, a lot of repetition and related numbers to each other is what makes it look complicated

Thank you, router wont drop to the floor, it woold come out from the rails and rotate with big gear

My issue has been solved with a new delivery of USSA ( sized adapted to my need), for Katsu / Anesty, use the version 18(TPU) size 65.3 and 17 (PLA) size 65,4, no need to use walls.horizontal expansion with those sizes. The 13 has been redesigned (see USSA correction above), but another issue with the head of screw which has been increased in tall during this redesign, fix necessar to decrease the tall of 2mm. Except thoses 2 adjustements, everything has been printed easily., not yet tested, i will update once done. Just consider the time to print : Router parts with my setup for cura ( mostlty 60% infill): Router main part: PLA (parts 1 to 11, 13 to18): 784gr , 250,01m 92h40mn, 14,17€ 39 parts to print based on PLA ( cost per kilo is 17,88€ and 317m), Router main part: TPU (parts 19 and 12): 29gr, 9,21m, 5h24, 0,51€ , 2 pieces based on TPU ( cost per 1/2 kilo is 17,15 € and 170m) Router equipment (parts 1 to 8) : PLA: 287gr, 91,93m, 29h51, 5,18€ , 11 pieces to print based on PLA ( cost per kilo is 17,88€ and 317m) . I also made my own equipment copying ring for Katsu /Anesty for the 57mm (part 1) and 24mm (part 2) instead of using the one given, as i did not bought the tool to mill. ( 43gr, 13,64m, 0,77€ , 30%infill ) , so swap 60gr (60% infill) PLA of USSA to my own 42gr (30% infill) Total : PLA ( 1071gr, 341,94m, 122h31mn , 19,35€ ) + TPU (29g, 9,21m, 5h36, 0,52€) Another point, if you got any trouble, you can send an email to USSA, and each time I get a quick answer, (most of the time less than one day after).

Same question here; no answer yet... 😕

@@mildlemon7866 just fyi... the whole router lift didn't last long. After 2-3 times of use it was full with saw-dust and then it just did not move any more...

Thank you for the information, I didnt know that these routers are not ment be mounted upside down, I will design dust extraction for it

@@ussadesign Love it. Presented with a problem, but not going to revert, going to improve to fix the problem

its pretty simple))) thats the only material I can print right now except TPU, overall PLA is not that bad I think, still have to learn how to print PETG seems its more suitable for such prints

thank you, there are cura settings at the end of the video, but I discovered prusa slicer recently and it makes better prints with default settings in my opinion, would recommend using it

Thats Rhio 3d with plugin for it called Grasshopper

working on it right now, posting next week

@@ussadesign My wallet is standing by. Keep up the great work!

@@TqSNv9R0iG5Ckxew was this ever implemented? I' m gonna buy it if it does

65 to 70mm diameter dimensions with the step of 0.5 mm are available, in total 13 sizes, but if you have any specific number in that range you can send me an email

Hello, I use 6mm grid for infill in cura or 20% infill in prusa slicer, ussually 3 wall line count and 4 if I need it stronger, the red part that rotates by drill has 6 wall line count and 40% infill. But I would still watch some tutorials on youtube to achieve better strength cause mine are not tested.

rhino 3d with grasshopper plugin

Bueno, yo compré una Artillery Genius. Funciona muy bien, tiene un extrusor directo (no tipo chicote). Precio razonable. Pero te recomiendo actualizar el software, ya que de fabrica viene con una versión vieja de Marlin. Ah, importante, usa una memoria USB de baja capacidad (1, 2 o 4 GB está bien), a veces me sigue dando problemas, entonces uso una memoria SD, también de baja capacidad, con eso casi nunca tengo fallas de lectura. Suerte! Vas a ver que anhelarás ver algo roto para poder imprimir una refacción! Ha ha

no respondas en español en un post en inglés. No todos hablan todos los idiomas del mundo. Ni se van a poner a traducir.

It’s because there is slide gap between thread and bolt as well as in inner rail guides 0.2 mm to be exact, to avoid this wobble I would have to make it very tide, it might have been possible with different printing orientation but in this case in vertical orientation it would just stuck. Overall that 0.2 mm gap doesn’t move router from the center once it fixed but it does create that wobble in up and down movement, another reason I think it’s because the whole router is a thread, if router would have only rails and thread would be a separated object it might have performed better, I am actually working on such combination now

@@ussadesign Thank you for detailed explanation!