I watched 3 different Yss fork installation videos on 3 different bikes & 1 a R.E Interceptor.One was actually a Yss video & had a fork cut in half to show how it all worked & no drilling was done on any of them. Also said it is a big improvement. TEC & a couple other companies actually state no drilling required. I did see a 530cc Gt Continental owner say they have a smaller hole than the 650 & drilled holes bigger. I was wondering when people buy the adjusters & emulator valves & instructions say to drill dampening rods but do not in the kit as it got something to do with the new springs & spacers.The springs are different size & spacers shorter which changes the whole geometry of how it works.I think this is what adds to the confusion between the kit(not drill)& only buying adjusters & emulator valves(drill). I found a Yss Australia Pdf which says to increase holes from 3mm to 8mm but Yss Thailand who makes the kit says plug & play.I have come to the conclusion that the kit works great having it myself & drilling it will make it even better.You definitely have the right idea about trying to get a old set of damper rods & drill them & test strength etc. I found a flash suspension kit that had progressive springs emulator valves adjusters & dampening rods with 2 small holes $950au. I can tell you from experience that front end diving experienced on stock forks is gone with Yss kit & front end handling has improved heaps.Also tested it through a twisty sections alot that I had to go slow through & now can ride confidently through faster & handling is heaps better.I reckon the kit is excellent as is & is great value.Looking forward to doing the rears next.
That makes sense. Interesting re the video of it cut in half! I’d like to see that….. I’ll be testing my bike in about an hour…nipping up to my geriatric father-in-law’s and will post later on what I think!
@@internetpolification I sent a link on video before this one of Yss promotional video of fork cut in half.In my comments the one that says "this video".
@@internetpolification Watch this video.This guy says don't drill & the spring rate & oil is all that needs to be done & preload adjusters.I see the spring rate is 9Nm in Yss kit I think & they are non progressive as well. I reckon that might be it a full kit no drilling & just buying PD valve emulator so drill.Also spring rate or progressive springs will alter handling too. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2qOipdKzbvo.html
@@internetpolification I have watched a TEC video where they do fork upgrade for a scrambler Triumph. As Scrambler off road they drill dampening rods as off road the forks need to move quicker. For the road bikes Triumph & Yamaha XSR 700 no drilling was done. It's a subject where their isn't really one answer or a correct one.Most these days just use a fork upgrade kit no drilling & if you want to change get different rate springs & or different grade fork oil. Off roaders like to drill which makes sense.For road use just the fork upgrade kit is good enough & if experts like TEC not drilling on their own road bikes & making videos about it & then drilling on a scrambler bike for off road.This means that they are confident in the Yss fork upgrade kit not being drilled & sell it stating that & also they use it on their road bikes without drilling. Also on the road you want forks to be firmer to eliminate dive & be smooth.You also need the front to work with the back.To soft will get you crossed up & once drilled there's no going back.Yss are made in Thailand & I watched several YSS Thailand videos although in Thai language not one video drilling was done on different bikes. As for drilling some say increase holes to 8mm & add one more between 10-30mm further up. This is a subject where people disagree on🤔🤯.Drilling is a old school trick & we are spoiled for choice with fork oil wgt & spring rate these days.In days gone drilling stock dampeners & putting stock springs back in improved handling to do both now day's on a fork upgrade kit is not probably required. I have seen flash fork upgrade kits that come with dampening rods & they only had 2 holes for $900au.This tells me it spring rate & fork oil weight is the way to go & you can always get progressive springs if you wanted to but the spring rate in the Yss kit is suited to the kit. You can pump the oil out with a pump without removing forks & use a cloth to wipe remaining residue to replace fork oil or you could swap springs & leave oil in.
Yes, I will be taking the bike out tomorrow for a test and will report back. I was tired today after the fiasco of the fork gaiters! Can you imagine……getting everything back together and thinking “hurray”…then seeing a pair of fork gaiters on the ground! Senior moment there. Still, a productive day…..oil and filter change and the fork kit on……
No need to apologise to anyone for doing the smart thing James... Firstly, your bike, your call. But most importantly, sensing the distortion of the broom handle was vital, had that broken off short, but jammed in the top of the damper rod, it would have been a disaster. I had to use the holding tool (not expensive) and a rattle gun (impact driver) with an in-hex driver bit to do it. Safety often feels like you're missing out... It was a good call. chrs..
Wow… rattle gun too! On tight then. I shoved the broom handle down as usual (I’ve done loads of forks this way) but……when I got a hefty Allen key on the bolt, I sensed the slight flex…it just didn’t feel right and so immediately stopped and had a look with a torch. I could be wrong but the damper rods look kind of flimsy..(perhaps ‘fine’ would be a less pejorative word?). The top resembles a socket from a socket set but a THIN one, of you see what I mean.I did wonder if I might actually end up twisting the rod itself, so ..for once, I followed my gut reaction. A damaged rod would have been a disaster!! As it is…if I really feel drilling would be better, I’d probably try not get hold of two rods from a breaker if possible and get that tool……..
i did the same with the gaitors, ive left them off, i put cable ties around the forks to measure the travel/sag and set the spring preload, when you buy the emulators on their own, you get fitting instructions about drilling the damper rods and the number of holes depends on the damper rod length, i made a homemade tool to get the rods undone, when i tried to undo them on the bike the rods turned inside, so had to use my tool, let us know what you think of the forks now, rich
Yes, I’d agree. I’m going to ride the bike tomorrow no I’m sure it will be. Huge improvement, undrilled, based on many other people’s experience. And that will be good enough for me, I reckon. Without that special tool, I daren’t try to remove the rods anyway as, looking at them with a torch, they look a bit weedy and like the might be easily damaged
Interceptor isn't a high performance knee out round corner bike like sport bike.It's a cruiser with a shite factory fork oil made by R.E's own oil company in North India.Having the Yss kit is a huge improvement over stock & improves handling. This is a bike where suspension let's it down but costs had to be saved to keep costs down hence the shite fork oil & forks & rear shocks,Relays & ugly cast steel mudguard brace, headlight bracket,levers etc. I love the bike & researched it shortcomings before buying & came to conclusion that upgrading forks,relays,mufflers,rear shocks & oiled air filter, iridium spark plugs & have turn a good bike into a great bike for a £1000 & still be cheaper than anything else & looks better than anything else.
I asked YSS Australia about my Himalayan because if you get the emulators it says to drill but the kit ignores it.. Well they found the kit to be stiffer just as a drop in. Lighter peeps might want to drill for more supple action available through just the emulator controlling it not in conjunction with dampener rod. I imagine same thing with the Interceptor and Continental…. If a little harsh on depending want it to be supple on lighter hits drill baby drill.. if your happy screw it ….
I got just the emulator from tec which came in its own package - with instructions - which said to drill the damper rods. Having got the damper rod and emulator in my hand I could see that the fit between them really wasn't very good which would compromise the effectiveness of the emulator. So I made a seat/seal to mate the two together from HDPE. I also made a tool to hold the damper rod while the retaining bolt is removed. Where are you?
I've already made the tool and done the job including holes. I thought it sounded like you were looking for a damper tool? Where in the UK? Don't worry, I'm not a stalker 😂
Ouch. I’d say the job without the tool would be very risky, based on today’s experience. If I do drill them eventually, I’d like to get two spare damper rods first!
Actually, no need to have a special tool to remove the bolt at the bottom. You can undo the bolt when the spring is still in the tune under tension. It actually holds the damper in place. When redoing it, just do a dry assembly to torque it down, once tight refill fluid. Do that for next time if you choose to do the drilling next time
Yep, I tried that with the forks still in the bike, tops on, springs under tension……no joy. The whole thing spun round….Allen bolt, damper rod, everything…….
Ps. On many other bikes, I used to use a broom handle! Shove it down there and it held the damper rod and allowed remove]al of the bolt. But, I looked at the Enfield one today with a torch and it looks very thing metal and not at all like the hefty Japanese bike damper rods I’ve removed lots of. The top of it resembles a socket set 12 point socket and will therefore need the equivalent of a large nut welded on a rod or similar. But it looks like a very thin-walled socket and I got the idea that it would be easily damaged without the correct tool and possibly even with it. Flimsy-looking, I thought. My gut reaction was to leave it alone, so I went with that. I think if I ever contemplated drilling, I would get the special tool kit (if available) and spare damper rods or even forks if available cheaply (eg bent ones). But, based on what many people have said, I think there will be an improvement and I suspect that will be enough! For now…….
Having done the mod myself, I didn't quite see it that way. Lots of mods I've made to my motorcycles require both the addition of the new parts and some slight modification of other parts you don't need to replace... Don't get me wrong, I've done it a couple of times (other bikes) and wouldn't say I enjoy it, but I do see the need.
Yeah, I get that mate, but many times I have done what you did - thought it wasn't going right and so held back. It was a smart move. My comment was a reply to the OP. Enjoying your vids, I can relate! 😅
