I was told to loosen off all the engine bolts a little . Start the bike and let it tick over for 5 mins then retention the bolts . This cured 90% of the problem
What you have suggested is what a hard break in or a moto man break-in is like, revving to the limiter in every gear will ensure piston rings are seated properly. This increases the fuel efficiency and smoothness of the engine. It's actually recommended that you do it once you get it from the showroom in the first 30 kms. Manufacturers don't recommend hard break in because they don't want to mention it in the manual and have new riders crashing into stuff in the name of breaking the bike in and facing a law suit. Overall a very detailed and nice video. More Enfield related stuff pls! ✌️✌️
Rajeth Zachariah first 30kms is crucial so the main thing is to get your engine warm to operating temp layer get on to the highway and do what this guy did Rev end from 2 gear and continue on don't do from first gear
nagarjun madhusudan is engine oil change necessary after 30km ... Ok from 2nd to 5th gear but how many times Shud I repeat this process of redlining 2 to 5 gears..how many cycles of ir
Very Good info. I have done this for my 150 CC bike and the result was very fantastic. I forgot to try with our Classic, as I was thinking these vibrations are because of some reason, that was the related informations received from other channels. Will try this surely. And also will try to loosen and tighten the engine mounting bolts after it reaching it's operating temperature. Presently, we are using Motul 5100 semi synthetic, not feeling any noticeable difference in performance and vibrations from the RE recommended oil. We have completed 4500 Kms already. Thanks for reminding me the same again. Please update the ideas like this again with this channel.
The absolute worst thing you can do for the engine is follow Royal Enfields running in procedure! Slogging the engine in 5 th Gear at 60 km/h is a great way to pick up cylinder walls due to high side thrusts and big throttle openings. I could feel my 350 begin to tighten and get very noisy if I tried to use 5 th at low speeds, so within 100 km I abandoned RE's procedure. For the first 250 km I kept it under 80 km/h used the revs, but gently no big handfuls of throttle. Up to 500 km I gradually increased the speed to 100km/h and gentle throttle use, the bike will tell you when it's not happy. I avoided holding any one speed for a long time and made use of the entire rev range and gears. By 2,000 km I was riding it full throttle on freeways for 20 or 30 k's at a time with occasional full throttle take offs bumping the rev limiter in the first 3 gears. Now at 5,000 it runs totally vibration free. Ray
The 500 is a very different animal to the 350 with a greatly increased useable rev range. The power band is roughly 4000-5250rpm but will pull strongly from below 2000rpm, which is 33mph in top, about 54kph. On the 500 top gear is almost an overdrive, it doesn't like doing 30mph in top. RE phase 1 of running-in says 35-40mph (50-60kph); this is probably a good 5mph too slow. Running-in an Enfield /is/ essential but it doesn't mean treat it like a basket of eggs, it means use it gently.There are three phases to running in. Running-in is not complete at first service (300 miles)The third phase, after 1000km, is where we gradually increase the revs and the vibrations go away. Many riders never complete the third phase and the vibrations never go away. About the only part run-in by the RE factory is the piston in the bore, that beds in very quickly. It is not the only part that has to be run-in; there are many bearings, shafts and cogs. If you buy any new vehicle, they always recommend driving gently for the first 1000 miles.
@@jeffslade1892Thanks for your input! I'm picking up my brand new Desert Storm 500 later this spring. Got a Tinytach tachometer to fit on it. Would you recommend around 3000 rpm even in 5th, although it will theoretically give me 48 mph? I will of course follow the "gentle" run-in doctrine.
Mr. Paul Grocock Sir! I have to thank you profusely at the very outset!! I am very lucky that I got to watch your video very early into my breaking in period of my classic 500. I have to tell you that your method reduced the vibration on my bike to almost nil. I am right now at 800 km on my bike and am still doing the hard break in, till I reach 1000kms. Guys It Works!! try it...please be careful but try it!! Thank You Sir!!
Pankaj Singh Tiwari . Thanks for your comments, and great news you have had the same success I had. Also thank you for advising people to be careful and sensible trying this method. Short bursts at high revs through the gears 👍
Paul Grocock Sir after you started doing the hard run in how often did you change the oil.. I'm assuming you did it more times than the manufacturer recommended change...I think the manual tells to do oil change after 500 km then 2000km then 3000km
I just did the first service on my RE and to be honest, the vibrations really aren't that bad. They were at first, but my break in, excuse me, run in, was on and off of the throttle constantly and not really paying strict attention to staying under the recommended road speeds. If I went a little over the recommended speed it was only by a small amount. I'm pleased with the results! Another great video too Paul!
Running-in does not end at 300miles (which is oil/filter change) nor at 600miles but probably 1200miles. I had two filters and four oil changes during that period, until the oil stayed clean. This is worth doing to examine the oil for metal bits; a fair bit of grey muck will come out and you don't want it to stay in the engine; it's not in the book of words. From 600 to 1200 we're stretching its legs but from 1200 we can start taking it way up the revs, not all at once but a little more each time. This is probably boring to anyone used to a modern bike where you jump on them and ride the snot out of them but it is worth doing.
Very good suggestion! I'm an old rider now but when I was a young guy in the late sixties, I knew a great Harley mechanic and racer. He was into Sportsters which also vibrated a lot. His motto was: "Break 'em in slow, they'll be slow; break 'em in fast and they'll go like hell". his break-in technique was very similar to yours; his bikes vibrated little and they did go like hell.
Dinesh Kukreti Basically, you go slowly through the first 500 km until your first oil change. After a good engine flush (I use kerosene) and fresh oil is when you bring the bike to higher revs in short spurts which you make gradually longer. The point is to condition the motor early to higher regimes so that it may go there smoothly when you need it to. For some reason or reasons, this makes the motor faster and smoother.
He did nothing, only rides it in every gear above 5000 RPM. That means before changing from 2 to 3rd the RPM should reach 5000 and so On, but in India mileage and if silencer changed than sound would be issue. Be careful
I've owned a few new bikes since 1971 including singles, triples, and iron head twins. I agree with your approach as I've used similar technique with decent results. I always called it "stretching" the engine a little at a time. I'm considering adding an RE 500 or 535 to my stable. Stuart Fillngham swears by Silkolene oil for Enfields. What do you use?
Sounds like this running in method pays dividends but I would think about having rubber put between the engine and the frame and on the handle bar mounts as this would kill off much of the vibration. I love the Classic 500 and the interceptor too, but the Interceptor being a twin would be better re vibration hence lean toward it but I really love the old School look of the Classic 500!
Hi there! You got a bew subscriber! Im from spain and there just a couple of RE here... Glad to see another one! So your advice is to run the bike over the revs for 2 minutes, many times? Doesnt ir matter the speed right, just the revs got to be higher than nornal? (Im spanish so i dont know how to say that) Looking forward hearing from you!
Hello to all, great video thanks for information yes l think that would work l have the military model 500 classic with sidecar attached military style set up l have put 3000k on the bike since new l can honestly say it smoothed out. Was it the extra weight because of sidecar and sometimes a passenger who knows but it's smooth enough to be a very pleasant bike to ride l am pleased with it l did run it hard up hills holding it in a lower gear because of extra weight but the bike does a great job short runs with wife to favourite coffee shop smooooth cheers
So Paul ..thank you for an informative video..I could see that you were able to maintain speed in the range of 100 to 110 km / hr was it easy .or the engine felt too stressed ? How much of a comfortable top speed is it able to do after the bike is properly run in?
vikas upadhyay . Top speed is around 140 but that’s right at the end of its range. 120 kph is the top comfortable speed of the 500 classic. All singles are buzzy though. The engine copes well long term cruising at up to 120. Nearer 140 the bike feels unstable especially in wind.
@@motechRevolution Thanks Paul..that is more than my expectation Actually the interceptor had me confused between the classic 500 n interceptor ..I love classic ,it has charm n character and not to mention the looks but people say interceptor too has a character and also refinement ..in India the price difference isn't much but I doubt if I buy I interceptor I may always have a regret for leaving out the classic
Thanks for the tip. Classic 500 Blue Lagoon 2017 Euro-4 spec here. During break-in , after 20 km I could not stick with 60 kph, Driving 70-80 kph most of the time without putting too much load on the engine. Usually accelerating smoothly, since the moment i got 150 km on the odo i started to push the engine fo very short moments (10 secs or so) now i have 600 km on the odo. There are indeed vibrations but not at the point that my fingers get numb. Maybe off topic, but One thing I would like the know from RE owners: When accelerating I have a metallic noise "tak tak tak" in any gear. When cruising the engine is super smooth , no noise, only when accelerating the tractor-like "tak tak tak " noise returns. It's not disturbing, I guess this is normal for a big thumper, - just to be sure if this noise is normal or if a visit at the dealer is necessary Thanks! Joel
Do not call it 'break-in' - that implies something harsh or broken, when running-in is supposed to be gentle and gradual. A loud metallic tak-tak under acceleration is most likely exhaust leak at the flange, they do that when the nuts need tightening and/or the gasket replaced; the cement biscuit gasket is patently useless. Under hard acceleration you should get a loud WHUMP-WHUMP beat from the exhaust note, becoming a pleasant howling roar as the revs increase. This may give you an idea what I'm blithering about although the sound is poor and the jelly-wobble is down to the cheap GoPro's 'rolling shutter'. A 'smoulder' is a slow burn up (eat lunch, read newspaper), the road is not as straight as the camera depicts and I can see more hazards than the camera can - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6FZPqf3qI3M.html
Sir,any specific reason for choosing Classic model?I am also looking forward to own one.Lot of sites I am coming across negative reviews telling that it is overpriced and outdated and a good vibrator and also having maintenance issues.Your advice will be invaluable.Please guide....
Although the exhaust on mine will frighten persons of a nervous disposition, the 3+yo engine itself ticks like a swiss watch and there is no uncomfortable vibration. It thuds like a big single should, like a live beast. It's a retro, is that outdated, it looks somewhat like the 1955 model Bullet-500 but with some very modern components. I maintain my own bikes, reliability has been good with only minor issues easily fixed, mostly loose electrical connectors. It handles well and sticks to the road well and is very easy to ride. One enjoys the ride and the scenery more than on other bikes. The current other bike is a Moto Guzzi, quicker but not as relaxing to ride. The Guzzi handles well, they always do, but the Enfield has better suspension and can turn on a sixpence. It's no crotch rocket but it is great fun to ride. And that's the main reason for buying one - they're great fun to ride.
Mr. Paul I have a 500 as well but it has run 16,700 Kilometers but the vibrations are still present and I'm very unhappy.... what should I do? any help will be greatly appreciated.
Hey Paul. I'm about to buy a classic 500 stealth black. I will surely use your maneuver to eliminate the vibration. But I would like to know when should I be doing this maneuver. Because, when they give the motorcycle for delivery, they actually insist us to not exceed rev limit or to ride it at a higher RPM. Is there any running period for this 500 cc engine before using the maneuver to eliminate vibration?
Prasath Venkatapathy Raja . Hi, it’s entirely up to you, I waited until after the 500km mark. Read the link I attached in the comments and then make your mind up. I am convinced it works but there are lots of people who don’t agree. I hard revved mine through the gears from 500 to 1000km in short bursts
My head seal got leaked. I did that un knowingly. I always thought why bike feels so light and smooth after the hard casual fast run around town. Or to get max Top speed out of it. I use too stretch every gare to its limits learned to switch just(from voice) before miss till the last. At 110-120 Bike still sound like need one more gare.
Great work Paul.. You talked about classic 500 I recently bought a clsasic 350. Could you suggest me the speed limits for every gear during the hard break in process for a 350 cc engine? Also, how long am I supposed to continue with this?
Hai,I’m having RE classic 350 2017 model lately my motorcycle vibrates lot only at 80kmph,below 80kmph lesser vibration beyon 80kmph lesser vibration...what could be the reason..can you please help me with
So many videos state a 500 classic wont do more than 100kph.. Well then.. You've proven them all wrong.. Ill be pickung up my first RE 500C in three days... Running in without a tacho is going to be interesting..
I have the Himalayan now, and too be honest it’s smoother, but the 500 classic was quicker overall. Thanks for the comment enjoy your bike and stay safe.
Raghu Vamshi The rev limiter is designed to protect the engine, I only did this in short bursts so throttle on hard then off again at high revs as Jeff said in some of the comments he only did it after 1000km. I did short blasts from 500km but had changed the oil to fully synthetic. After 1000km you can increase the burst lengths. Once I got to 1500km my bike would touch 140km if needed. I am not a fan of riding flat out on Motorways so my primary reason for a 'hard run in' was to reduce vibrations through out the rev range. which it has done. Again do other RE forum research and try at your own risk. Fully synthetic oil also calms the engine down vastly from mineral oil.
On what planet does a Royal Enfield not vibrate, it isn't this one! With out harmonic balancing to quell some of the energy of that big piston going up and down, means it will vibrate. Soft breakin or hard does not trump those forces.
I did this to my Continental GT. And the crankshaft bearing started to make knocking noises. Eventually had the while crank assembly con-rod replaced under warranty. Any idea what caused that? Typical usage is a 22km daily drive to work and again 22kms back home with moderate traffic on the way to work and empty streets back home. Have been told fully synth oil is not good for wet clutch. What do you think?
Aditya Bhagat . Lots of people swear by fully synthetic. The trouble is it is very slippery and could potentially affect wet clutch plate assemblies. The problem as well is some are designed for diesel and petrol car engines not bikes. I am now using castrol power 1 15w 50 semi synthetic. It's specifically made for performance bikes. One of the reasons I waited until after 500km to start opening my bike up was oil contamination can wear bearing shells. Even with severe use bearing shells should hold up in clean oil. How many KM was on your bike when the main bearing failed ?
Hey Paul! Sounds interesting this method.... how many km's do you have on your bike so far? I've got 25000 on mine, but it still buzzes at over 100 km/h.
Matei Buta, Hi, thanks for commenting, my bike has close to 3000k on it now. It is a type of run in that needs to be done early on for best results. I have put a link down in the comments to an article from the US regarding running in in general. To be honest I was nervous of trying it myself, but it worked great on my bike, oil came out not too dirty at my second change around 1000km. My reason for trying was parts loosening and severe vibrations at the grips and foot pegs, practically nothing now, pulls like a train up to 140kph max. Although I generally hardly ever go over around 110kph.
interesting... i must admit, mine has also softened after the run in. but i'd never dare push it to 140. cruising @ 100 ok, maybe 110 in overtake. but i still feel some vibration even after 25 000 km I'm curios to see if this kind of run in will have any effect in the long run. Planning a 10k km trip this summer, hope all will be well in the engine ;)
I would your bike would be fine on a 10k trip I would do a full oil change before preferably with synthetic oil. That way if you cannot do another midway the oil should hold up well
Hello... Just yesterday I got my re signals 350cc..I don't really understand the video..can any one put it in a simple words...how can vibration be reduced ?
I agree with your method, nearly all the guys I know run in slowly and cautiously and guess what, there bikes vibrate! Do you know if Enfield use synthetic oil or mineral oil. I ask as synthetic appears to glaze bores if used in a new engine, that is unless its a racing engine which never gets run in.
john rocker . They use mineral oil if you go by the book. I use semi synthetic, fully synthetic can cause problems with a unit construction engine and wet clutch.
Paul Grocock almost all bikes use a unit construction engine and wet clutch, they work just fine on fully synth oil and in many cases specify only fully synthetic oil.It only causes problems if you use non motorcycle specific car type oil which has to many additives in which can cause problems with the wet clutch on a motorcycle.
I watched this with interest. I can see that your bike seems to have much less vibration than you'd expect - the mirrors are clear at speed. However I am struggling with the science behind the hard run-in and its effect on vibrations. It would be interesting to have a comment from a mechanical engineer. As far as I know vibration is the result of reciprocating forces - a mass accelerating in one direction, slowing and stopping, and then accelerating again in the opposite direction. A 500cc piston with a long stroke is creating a lot of reciprocating force which is only countered by the flywheel, and so vibration is to be expected. The tightness of the piston/bore clearances I would have thought to be only of minor significance? Not doubting your experience, just puzzling with the explanation! Thanks for the enjoyable videos
Rory McLoughlin . Hi Rory, the explanation I have been given is that RE engines are not run in on the bench, could be totally wrong, most modern engines are pre run in. The article in the comments pretty much covers the logic behind the method.
Hi Paul, I couldn’t find the link to the article you had referred on the video and on your responses. Could you kindly share it with me. I became a proud owner of Classic 500 (Chennai, India) yesterday and stepped into RU-vid for tips and recommendations on vibration problem.
Hi Mr. Paul, I am little bit confused. The method suggested by you is best between 0 to 500 kms or after first 500 kms running in as mentioned in manual ? Please advise.
Amrish Patel . I used the method after the initial 500km, however the link from the American website suggests from new. I would keep it to 60kph for the first 500, but it's up to the individual
Hi Robert, the idea is that it is done from new. still probably worth a try even if it just clears any carbon build up in the head. Most people short shift their REs when the engine note dictates however the 500 will do 60kph in second 90 in third and 120 in 4th this is the top end of its rev range before it hits the auto limiter. Obviously adjust this for the 350 model. Try it a few times and see if it helps.
Hey Paul, excellent video. Too bad I've found it a bit late, not too late I hope. My bike (Classic 500) has run 2500km so far, and I've been handling it like a flower so far (strictly following the run-in instructions as per the manual, no sudden revs whatsoever). Nasty vibrations, I get from the bike on low and high rpm ranges. Can I try this now to rectify the bar end vibrations? Or is it too late?
Paul Grocock, thank you. I will update after trying it out. Can you please give me the approx max speeds in kmph that you rode in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears?
Pavanth Sukumar hi, yes around 60, 80 and 110 in second and third the Rev limiter will cut the engine for a split second if you rev to high, short bursts don’t do it for long periods
Paul Grocock i hav tried this method when bought the bullet but tried only one time at 1000kms...should i repeat the method after 10000kms...is it worth...?
Paul, just finished my first service after 500kms today. Plan to take it out and try this this watching it now. After you revved the hike in each of the gears, what was the top speed you maintained? Rev it in 2,3,4 gears and then back off and ride steadily and repeat it intermittently? Much thanks.
Pradhyumna Gupta . Hi yes short bursts, if you hit the rev limiter in 2nd and 3rd don't worry. In 4th you can rev it high. Then take it steady in 5th for a while. Then repeat.
Paul Grocock Paul just did my first attempt of the hard run in. What top speed did you maintain from 500-1000 Kms and when did you start opening up the throttle and go to 100+ speeds? Cheers, Pradhyumna
Paul Grocock Paul, tried this method and now I am at 900 kms on the odo. Vibrations have actually increased. Did you experience the same? I probably need to the oilc changed now.
Hi Paul. Thanks for the video. I'm planning on doing the hard break ins on my classic 500 in few days. My bike is on 100km now. To be clear, I want to go 60kmph on 2nd gear, 90kmph on 3rd, and 120kmph on 4th, correct?
Adj Sdj. I would go 50, 80, 110 untill you get over 500km Do it in short bursts as soon as you hit 110 put it in 5th and slow down to under 80 repeat but give the bike a rest between bursts. I waited until I had 500km on my bike as per Royal Enfield run in instructions before opening her up. It's up to you but if you start hard run in now change your oil after a couple of hundred KMs.
Paul Grocock Im going on a trip around 300km tomorrow. Added to the existing 100 it would be about 400km on my speedometer by the end of the week. Think I will wait till 500 to do the hard in. Thanks for the reply Paul. Greetings from Jakarta.
Siva Teja. A hard run in for the engine. it involves high revs in 2nd 3rd and 4th during early run in. Lots of people do not advocate it. But it quickly seats and beds in the piston and the pot from factory machining. It can lead to better power output and less vibration. There is a link lower in the comments to an article about hard engine run.
akshay D. I haven’t rode a bike with one fitted, but it’s the technology used on most other singles to keep vibrations down. It’s surprising that RE don’t implement it as a stock item.
Paul Grocock here in India RE has popularity just because of it's legacy and brand name. RE manufacturers stubborn to do any changes albeit, there are many pitfalls as a manufacturing defects. As long as they have blind followers and sells are up they will not implement new technology in it.
it sounds dodgy to me engine vibration comes from crankshaft not piston doing what your doin you mite get less vibes but your probly halving your engine life
Most engines are hard run in on the bench to high revs. Hence with some cars no run in is required. If you read the attached link from a US race motor tuner it's well explained. Again it's up to the individual if they want to try it.
Hi look at part 2 in my other videos and read the article linked below in the comments. Basically rev it hard in 2nd 3rd and 4th intermittently for the next 500km
Paul Grocock so is this bursts of hard revving a one time thing or should be done every few hundred kilometres? Also, whats the average duration per burst before moving to higher gear? 5-10 seconds? Do you decelerate each time you burst or collectively do it after the final burst in 4th/5th gear?
Paul Grocock cool. thanks a lot. i did it for a few mins today and the engine softened a lil. its a classic 350 with bore widening and a 380cc cylinder, so its as good as new. 700km on odo post the change so far.
Pawan Rai hai i have 350cc bs4 model i did this after 150 km on my bike almost there is no vibration till 140 and plz do it carefully i do this on open highways not on city
Sorry for the dumb question but how do you know you hit the Rev limiter. Is there an indicator? Or the engine will prevent further revving and we can feel That?
Paul Grocock I'm waiting fory Classic 350 Redditch edition.. I read somewhere that Classic 350 doesn't have a rev limiter so I guess it will be risky for me to do this method of break in without a rev limiter but I want to do this badly :(
Yes possibly, a couple of minutes is a long time although you need more than a few seconds, in the lower gears on my bike I always hit the Rev limiter then changed up I would hold in 4th at just under 120kph for maybe 10 to 20 seconds instinct will guide you. Short sustained bursts through the gears plus plenty of oil changes with semi synthetic at 1000km. Thanks for the comment 😎✌🏻
Hi Paul Great vlog, I am just about to take delivery of a royal enfiel d despatch 2016 with 2000 miles. If the bike vibrates is this method still doable to get results. Cheers Al
@ Paul Grocock (asking u all this as u have an experience of 39yrs as u said in the comments). Hello Paul is RE 350 a good bike? I am thinking if buying one for me. I currently own a 200cc motor bike (TVS Apache RTR 200 4V). But i am quiet bored with the bike so thinking of upgrading to Classic 350(Redditch Edition). So pls guide me and tell me about the maintenance cost of 350 classic. And I hear this vibration vibration all the time...are those vibrations that much that u will not enjoy the bike? Does it cause fatigue? And does Classic 350 cause back pain to riders? Bcoz I am 6ft tall. Many people say its posture is upright so it is not comfortable in city traffic. Pls let me know sir.... Thanks!
Vijayendra Shastri . The 500 is more powerful, it all depends on your needs. Both the 350 and 500 UCE bikes are reliable and long lasting with proper maintenance
Ian Fluker I know you're right my jacket and gloves were on the back of the bike under a cargo net. I had worn them in the morning but it was just to hot especially on an air cooled bike. To be honest bike accidents in Spain are low. Nobody canes their bikes here. In fact I cannot see the point in owning a R1 etc if you ride round in shorts and flip flops. Southern Spain is like California, I agree gloves boots helmet and jeans are a must. ( they don't even wear helmets in the country side) California police a good example. Always in short sleeves in Summer. Although I have ridden for 39 years I do thing the majority of bikers in the UK are crazy riders.
At about 4:05 you mention head winds-I'd forgotten about head winds, especially the cold variety! They can be quite wearing. Anyway, thanks for the video.
Ian Fluker. Normally I don't notice a lot of wind in Spain but that day it was like night and day going either way. Into the wind it was not enjoyable, coming back it was flying up the inclines without any blast in the face
Noor Khan in 2nd and 3rd you will hit the rev limiter around 5400 rpm and the engine for a split second will blip look at the Speedo when it cuts the revs in 2nd and 3rd and just stay under that. do it in short bursts in 2nd and 3rd it should do 120kph in 4th. don't be tempted to change at 100kph in to 5th hold it in 4th at 120 for 10 seconds or so then move to 5th and cruise at 120
just re watched it, yep some wobble on the clutch lever however this is wind buffer. the levers are a little loose on the RE when not under tension. well spotted though
@@motechRevolution Oh thanks for the reply Paul. Was actually just highlighting the time when you spilled the beans on how to fix the vibes, if people wanted to jump to it. Interesting video, think my GT535 I just picked up might be a bit long in the tooth for this though. Nearly 9k miles on the clock. Going to try the loosening and re-torquing the engine bolts technique :)
Emilio . Hi Emilio, not sure if it's possible to eliminate vibrations to.100% but I can say with all honesty that my RE is not much different to most 500cc singles after run in
Emilio . The method is well documented on different forums and relates to the running in progress after the initial 500km after the first 500k repeatedly take the bike in 2nd 3rd and 4th up to 5000 rpm the bike will go through the rough growl and vibrations to what feels like a power band in the high rev range. With this method the piston will bed in reducing vibrations. As I said in the video it's up to the individual to take it upon themselves regarding any possible risk to try this method during running in.
IMO only start revving it up after *1000km*, after the second stage of running in (per Owners Manual), and slowly gradually working up to 5500rpm rev limiter. There appears to be a tight spot around 4800rpm to eliminate. Max torque is 4000rpm and max power is 5250, the engine should operate very smoothly between these two. If the engine feels tight whilst you are stretching its legs, back off and don't force the issue - next time it will go a bit further. Doing it this way is by-the-book and won't void the warranty. After 1000km the book says, "avoid prolonged full throttle operation", which is sensible
