Just a suggestion for those doing this project. In future, when doing the anchors with no wall stud, it’s best to stagger the holes vs having one below the other. So from center (between studs), have the top hole drilled for the next hole immediately left of center and the bottom hole, use the next hole immediately to the right of center.
to help with the hardware kit (anchors/screws) I found one called pop-toggle which includes larger quantity of screws and anchors which are the same size that come in the rubbermaid package
Be sure to drill pilot holes through the drywall into the studs. I skipped this step with #10 2-1/4” screws on an 84” rail. My impact driver pushed the last 1” of the screw. I really hope that didn’t crack any of the studs - lesson learned with my first rail mounting project.
Thanks... Great video which i was looking for...but my railing says package included, i did not open it yet to see. Lets see. Thanks for the posting and your time.
Great video. So just to confirm, you directly drilled the screws in the stud and used the anchors for the drywall? I bought a different brand but the instruction is unclear af. I wasn't sure if I should use anchors for the stud.
@@Ramon739 this has been bothering me so much. The instructions even say that it should be on a stud on either end! I thought I was crazy when I measured the rail and it wasn't 48" on the hole centers
You can hang multiple items on the hooks depending on the size of the hook and the tools you are hanging. This system is pretty strong. You can hang multiple shovels on one hook. Look at the video and you can see he has stacked tools on the hooks. It is a very nice system IMHO. Of course, to handle the max weight, you must follow the install guide and properly anchor to studs and use wall anchors between the studs (assuming a drywall install).
I wouldn't just rely on the studs since I'm not sure how much the rail would flex in the middle with no support. One thing you could do is install a strip of plywood on the studs then mount it to that.
It's always good to be cautious! Especially if you have electrical in the wall where it's being installed. There "should" be protection behind the drywall where the wires are run, but that's not a guarantee either.
I have the 32" rails and the ends don't seem to perfectly match up to the stud centers. How critical is it to get end holes on center to studs? And how critical is it to get onto 3 studs? I'm wondering if I should just mount up a 2x4 so I don't have to worry about aligning the studs...
Great vid!!! I saw that you drilled double vertical holes (one on top of the other), was that recommended by the instructions, or were u just being extra diligent to make it as sturdy as possible?
Use both top and bottom hole when mounting to the actual studs. Then use a screw anchor in just the upper hole position in between each stud. All the forces are on the top edge of the rail so you want the "in betweens" in the top holes between the studs.
I can't remember exactly and I don't have any remaining hardware, but for the drywall only areas I thought I used a 5/16". You basically want the hole just big enough to push the cylinder of the wall anchor through. Too big and the support fins won't stop it from spinning when you tighten the screw, or worse. I'd start small and then go bigger if it won't go in to be sure.
The way the holes are spaced on the rails, you'll hit a combination of studs and drywall based on the spacing they mention in the instructions. The more studs the better. I wouldn't install to drywall only. Per Rubbermaid's documentation, each rail can hold up to 1,750 lbs. when installed properly. Hope this helps!
How did you attach the screw to the stud? No anchors used? You drilled it directly to the stud? This specific process was not clear to me. If it was drilled directly to the stud, why drill a hole beforehand? Great video! Cheers mate
No anchors are needed with the studs. I drilled a small pilot hole to help make sure the wood doesn't split behind the wall. It's ideal to just have the threads of the screw dig in. More of a best practice.
Do you not trust the screws in the studs?? Those wall anchors look flimsy as f*%#.... I'm not going to wast my time the wall anchors but other than that. That was a straight forward install process, thank you!
Thank you, unfortunately where we had to position the rack and spacing of our studs didn't line up perfectly. We used both studs and the anchors because we were following the directions to increase the strength, especially on the wall that holds the bikes.
These style anchors are typically rated to about 100 lbs each. The ones I bought almost identical say 140 lbs mounted through drywall! They're plenty strong.
@@TopHomeowner that's exactly what I did and it turned out ok although originally I wanted to hang large power tools like edgers and if the sheetrock isn't very stable the weight causes some issues so I just used smaller equipment like blowers. Thank you
Thank you for the feedback. The thing about the attachments is that they are very versatile. We will look into doing a video on the attachments though.
You went from the bar being up for 1 second to being completely done. That came off as suspicious edit. Don't you think people would want to see how the hooks go and such?
Birdman PB Wouldn't this whole video be common sense then? This is beginner level DIY. I was also curious how the hook pieces went in, if you slide them from one side or they go over the top.
