Ruckus titanium valves & performance cam shaft [STEP BY STEP] 

Never say stuff like that, I thought I'd never spend time rebuilding 2 stroke glow engines but it has become a very fun hobby. Working my way through learning to work on all the types of IC engines, and learning how electric drive systems work too because it is the future of fast.

Thanks for the positive words

I wish !

Thanks you dude. I appreciate the support 🙏🏻💯

Thanks for the support 🙏🏻💯

😛

I watch your videos too Mitch

LOL ahhh yaaa

Good idea!

The 157qmj is a bit more beat up by the way. But is it worth it to do a whole swap? Maybe bore the kymko and swap??

The Kymco engine is the better option for sure ! Much better quality

The ruckus has a totally different engine. It will not work

Remove it and check for broken stuff

Mi to men this man work I wish I new how to do o that

Derek look at his video. educate yourself that's what I'm doing is a lot of things that I'm doing already

I didn't now how to do nothing en i look at hes video now am learning how to put a clutch the valuator the carburetor little by little you got to keep on looking at the video and learning

What I'm going to have trouble with the Big Bore Kit he's a challenge for me

@@juliodiaz4493 I never was really Into fixing things until about 10 yrs ago I started watching RU-vid videos now I think I can fix anything hahaha and have from vehicles washer and dryer’s refrigerators A/C units plumbing seriously endless and your right keep going back and watching the video take your time and be patient and even take a break or wait to finish things the next day when fresh and given it some thought way I see It if others can do it why can’t I much respect for the ones taking time to record step by step and explaining it all in detail cheers

Nice! It’s very simple on the cdi. Red wire is power. It gets attached to the running light so it gets power. Black to engine ground. Blue plugs into the blue wire on the stator.

@@RollingWrench 10-4. I appreciate the info. I’m excited. You guys have been super helpful every step and I just want y’all to know I really do appreciate it.

I was hoping someone would post that. Not sure why he lapped the valves.

He is trying to apply what is used in the highest performance oem engines and racing engines to a relatively low performance engine. He’s sort of on the right track but not fully. We use titanium valves in our drag race motorcycles when we have gone to a much larger diameter valve to gain mass flow and such an oversize valve in stainless would be much heavier it would require valvesprings with a lot more spring pressure on the seat and at full lift to where it would beat the shit out of the valve seat, cam lobe, lifter (when present), and all associated valve train components. Reduced valve weight (ti valves) are also used when you are rpm limited by your valve train. Reducing weight in the valve itself can, though not always, help an engine rev a little higher. However, most of the time, it’s more complicated than weight alone and factors such a cam profile (duration and intake valve closing most importantly) play a much more important role in changing an engines rev range when specifically seeking a higher rev potential. Though just being able to spin the engine higher doesn’t mean it will make more power up there. If the cylinder head can’t flow enough cfm to support the higher volumes of air demanded at those higher rpm then it is of little benefit unless for instance a dragracing situation where spinning the engine past peak hp would result in a better ET at the track due to where the rpm drops back below peak power on the shifts. There’s soooo much more to it than just dropping in a set of Ti valves and thinking you are going to gain anything. Commendable for the effort, but misleading and misinformative do a large degree. And yes you guys are right, you never lap any valves that are coated, no matter what the valve is made of. The coatings are only tenths thick (tenths in machinist lingo, that’s tenthousandths actually=.0001). The lapping compound is abrasive and will grind the coating right off. We use an uncoated valve with a freshly ground 45 to do any lapping checks when using coated valves. Lapping is only done as a check anyway, it allows you to visualize exactly where and how wide the mating is between the 45 degree angle ground on the valve and corresponding angle cut or ground on the seat. Concentricity can be confirmed by lapping after a valve job is performed. Also when checking out a used head the condition of the valve job is assessed by a quick lapping of the valves with a lapping stick. Spinning a valve (with lapping compound on the seat) with a drill attached to the stem or with tubing and a mandrel and drill is at best a half assed way to perform a valve job. Only way it will be successful is if the valve job (45 on the seat and valve) was in good condition and you are simply replacing the valves with the exact same size (diameter). If he nicked the seat when “porting” (if you want to call that porting) then he can spin that valve till the cows home and it’s not gonna grind enough of those seats for the valve job to “come in”. But again, overall he did pretty good with his explanations and video in general.

@@robertmason8341 so what your saying no matter the weight difference the ti valves aren’t adding much?

Change gearing and/or jetting? Remember stroker kit changes a lot of things.

In the next couple of weeks :-) waiting on a sponsor :-)

Nope! Any engine :-)

Return it. I did everything in this video and it’s a waste of time and most importantly MONEY. I got zero gain in performance, but a massive gain in valve noise!

Stiffer springs is what controls less valve float

@@RollingWrench wouldn't lighter components make the springs work Les hard

@@lukassonntag3956 yes definitely. Valve float would need to be solved with heavier springs though

I know dude! I’m so excited for it!

Definitely similar

The number of this motor is - AF 55e, and the number of the motor for 4 valves is - AF 63e.

the four-valve engine af63e was intended for the domestic Japanese market for the scooter Honda Dio Z4 - AF 63.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-76YiiA-RtY8.htmlsi=BiFvIxrilvVyxoem

The GY6 is a Chinese copy of the GET motor design.

GET is much different than gy6. Only downfall is smaller displacement. The gy6 49 cc has a bolt on kit that gets you to 100cc I think you go from 4hp to 6 something The ruckus is about 5 hp, but the hp and torque is more flat. Dont know much about the Zuma 4 stroke but I am sure they are good

Thank you dude

Bull. I did all of it, and it didn’t do anything but add more valve train noise. Waste of money.