@@okiewindllc7 This year, I decided to make my first rifle....a 10/22 better suited for the silhouette competition I do. Well........the receiver and magazines survived. The rest is Kidd with a 2 stage trigger and taccom stock with a buttstock I fabricated and welded from aluminum and sight bases for peep sights that my brother and I machined. If I find a different receiver, I could put the original rifle back together. It was just a stainless and synthetic 2001 rifle that I bought, so not a gift and it was just OK as it was but not at all great. My Kidd build has scored me 3rd, 2nd, and yesterday match winner for the competition, even against bolt guns and anschuts rifles. Yes, he should have just started with a new gun.
Start with the receiver, then the bolt, then the stock and bipod, and finally the barrel. It is refreshing to see those groups after all the dimes you shoot at a hundred yards. That made feel better about the groups I get 🎉with my stock 10/22! The biggest improvement with mine came with installing a Volquartsen trigger. Thanks for doing this. I’ve been looking forward to this ever since you said you were going to do it.
I bought a 10/22 carbine at a big box store in early 2019. By mid-2020, I had replaced all the parts but the receiver itself. I bought a stripped 10/22 receiver and rebuilt the original carbine. Now, I have 2 rifles.
My original Ruger (1984 manufacture) shot a 4-5-inch group (depending on the ammo) at one hundred yards with 3-9 power scope. I decided I wanted something different (and better shot groups). I kept the original receiver and bolt. Put on a Magpul adjustable stock, added a Shaw Heavy Threaded Barrel, put in a Timney Trigger group with mag release lever (so much easier to release mags), a Bushnell 6-24x50 scope, and a Harris bipod. I then went thru a selection of different 22lr ammo from Federal, CCI, Norma, Aquila, Remington, and SK (a German ammo). I'm now shooting nickel sized groups at 100 yards with SK Standard Plus ammo (picked up at a gun show). I'm still experimenting with ammo (SK is great, but my next effort will be out to 200 yards.), so I've ordered some different types of SK, Eley, and even some Lapua to test at 100 and 200 yards.
I would change out the items based on their cost. Cheaper item first, etc… I have 2 Kidd 10/22’s and absolutely love them. They both shoot lights out. 👍🏻❤️🇺🇸
I decided to build a 10/22 a few years back, started with the cheapest "carbine" model, and added a Kidd trigger/ buffer, Houge Stock and Green Mountain barrel, all before firing a single shot ;) Decent scope (Barska 3-9) and it shoots as well as I can/ ammo allows, and still light enough for hunting/ carrying all day ;) under $700 after selling factory barrel/ stock on ebay....
Trigger first, then bolt, then barrel would be the order I would go through. I got one of the first KRG Bravo stocks and that one worked fairly good. That would be my vote. Looking forward to see where this goes.
Thank you for your time and hard work you put into your video's!! I personally like to see you change the bolt out 1st. Even in the factory stock. I think it would help others look at how it improves an every day 10/22. Thank you Bill
My first gun was a Ruger 10/22 walnut and stainless. I did the exact same stuff to mine I KIDD it all out except for the receiver and I did the 2 stage trigger instead of the 1 stage. I love it! It is a tack driving machine!
The most interesting but time consuming way would be to add and remove the individual parts so that we can see that only that part is affecting the build. If you end up installing the part that has the greatest affect first then it could end up masking the affect of the other parts. The accuracy given from each individual part isn't going to just stack with the other parts. For example let's say that on their own the barrel gives a 1.5 MOA improvement and the trigger gives a .5 MOA improvement. Does that mean if you add them together the gun will now shoot 0 MOA (assuming it was shooting 2 MOA to start with)? Of course not lol. I say test both the trigger and the bolt individually with the stock barrel since those are super easy to install/reinstall. Then install the Kidd barrel and test the same way starting with the stock parts.
Replacing Barrel with, a Green Mtn 20" Sporter Barrel, a New "recoil Lug" by, Lil' Crow Gunworks ( Glass Bedded ) and Volquartsen Trigger Parts, at 2.25 Pounds, equaled SUB, 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards, with "most" Medium priced SV, Target Ammo for, Me !
My 10/22 was my first rifle as well parents bought it for me 30 years ago still all stock it definitely has the most sentimental value and has run like a champ since day one. I will never sell or trade this one
I had a stock 10/22 that shot on par with most 10/22s - about 1" at 50yd. I installed an inexpensive Shaw .920 bull barrel and a hogue overmolded stock (since replaced with a Volquartsen laminate stock to improve balance) The new barrel fit so loose in the receiver, I thought I was going to have to shim it..... Imagine my surprise when I assembled the gun and it shot several .2" groups at 50 yd (Lapua Midas+). Needless to say, I didn't install any shims. I have no doubt the barrel made the most difference. Not sure if my sample of one is representative of Shaw Barrels, but color me impressed. Another 10/22 that I have wears a green mountain sporter weight barrel that shoots .3"-.4" at 50(also lapua midas+). Both guns are outfitted with better triggers, one is a Timney, the other a Kidd. (the Kidd is better, The Timney is an upgrade over the BX, just not enough to warrant the price difference IMO). I own several good quality 22s, but these 2 are 2nd and 3rd in accuracy, only beaten by an Anschutz but it was a gun that cost three times as much as the 10/22 with the upgrades. Prior to this I had no idea you could get that kind of accuracy out of a 10/22 with just a barrel swap.- the vblock system and the fact that there is only one screw securing the action to the stock would make me think the platform would not lend itself to precision, but I stand corrected.
If you do all that, follow this during the barrel installation - Ruger 10/22 - Gain Accuracy! Little Crow Gunworks GRX RU-vid for bedding. Great accuracy improvement. I've been down this road like so many others. This little installation makes a big difference.
I really look forward to this project as I own 2 ruger 10/22’s! I love the rifle but despise the trigger. The ruger was also my first squirrel rifle as a young man and have fond memories of it hunting. I have a friend that builds 10/22’s that often beats my CZ457 at shooting competitions on my RU-vid channel. Again I really look forward to your build as I will do the same to one of mine if all goes well! Cheers! 😊
In order of swapping parts. The reason I chose this, stock makes very little to no difference, so who cares. The rail can tweak the optic but little to no difference. Trigger can improve things since it will be light and crisp. Bolt.. I really don't see how a bolt can change things but I'm looking forward to finding out. Barrel of course will be massive and the most important thing to change. So it goes last. That being said I would be interested to see after the project is over to see what just a barrel swap does for the person thats only going to swap that one part out and leave all the other factory parts in, but do that last after the other testing has been done. Stock Rail Trigger Bolt Barrel
FIRST . ! THANK YOU JOSH ...!!! GREAT VIDEO ...!!!!! LOVE TO SEE YOU DOING A 10-22 ... !!!!! MY FAVORITE 22... !!!!!!! NOW YOUR IN MY RANGE OF PRICES TO BUILD ONE .... !!!!!!! BARREL FIRST ...!!!!!!!! CANT WAIT TO SEE THE FINISH GUN AND HOW IT SHOOTS ..... !!!!!!!!! MUCH APPRECIATION ON THE 10-22 .. .. MY BOYS SHOT 2 BRICKS EVER WEEKEND FOR 10 - 11 YEARS ON MY 10-22 ... STILL A GREAT OLD GUN ... !!!!! BOX OF SHELLS WERE $.025, DOUBLE G. HERE ..!!!
I did the same thing to the stock bolt. I dropped the headspace to .042". It makes a difference. I may set the barrel back next. depending on how busy I am at work
I have a semi custom 10/22 that I shot for a couple years in NRL22. I was able to be fairly competitive with it. I've since switched to a RimX . It was also one of my first rifles, my dad got it for me. One year for Christmas he bought me a heavy match barrel and stock from Midway. The barrel says "Midway match" on the side, I believe it's probably a green mountain barrel. It was shot like this for many years, mostly plinking with bulk ammo. When I started shooting NRL22 I wanted to squeeze a little more accuracy out of it. Put a BX trigger in it which was a huge improvement over factory. Lastly we milled the receiver and stock for Kidd rear lug and bedded the action. I believe once you hang a heavy barrel off the receiver the single action screw is not sufficient enough to properly hold it in the stock. I had to play alot with action torque, can't remember the exact specs but I believe it was around 30 in-lbs that gave the best accuracy. I think you will see the most improvement from the new barrel. Fun series, I think the 10/22 is probably one of the greatest rifles of all time. Not always the most accurate, but fun for all ages.
My 10/22 has the pencil barrel also. Bought it used from a person that put over 4,000 rounds through it with no cleaning. I cleaned it completely, shot a variety of ammo. Mine prefers RWS rifle target. But does the same as yours, a couple nice groups then throws a few rounds. Did free float the barrel, group size got better, flyers not as bad. I do have a Volquartsen trigger kit in mine. A green mountain barrel is on the way.
I have built multiple 10/22s over the years. Here is what I have found. My 20" Green Mountain barrel and 18" Feddersen out shoot my Kidd barrel. All of my stock bolts have a .043" headspace. All that is needed is to replace the extractor and bevel the rear where it contacts the hammer. I use the Kidd single stage trigger kit in the stock housing. All of mine sit in the Victor Titan stock. Buy some 1/4" nylon bolts to make your own bolt buffer. I bought the GM barrel a couple of months ago just to see what $135 would get me. It will put 10 shots under a dime at 100 yds with Eley SABR. My scope of choice has become the Riton Conquer 6-24x50. Amazing glass for $200. Last build was from a $219 10/22 bought at Field and Stream with my military discount. Threw everything away except for the receiver, bolt and trigger. Next one may use a Brownell's receiver. Good luck with your build.
I would be interested in seeing just the bolt upgrade first, I’ve got the same trigger and barrel on mine with the Victor Company Titan Stock (which is very nice).
This will be a good series...Depending on the results it might inspire me to finally get a Kidd barrel for my 10/22T...From factory it shot really good..Last year or so I sent the barrel to VQ to have it threaded for a can and while it was there I decided to have it shortened to 17"...Great work on their part but the barrel is no where near the accuracy it was before with any ammo..Now my buddy sent his 10/22T barrel at the same time but only had it threaded and not cut down..His came back shooting as great as it was before..and even better with a can installed..So me cutting mine down was a bad choice on my end..
I've built 2 10/22s. Barrel is essential. 1st build: MagPul stock to accept Green Mountain bull barrel, then BX trigger. Stock reciever & bolt. Reciever accepted GM barrel without any specail procedures. 2nd build, MagPul stock, Kidd reciever & bolt, Kidd barrel and two stage trigger. The Kidd barrel to reciever is .002 interference fit, requiring me to chill the barrel 45 mins in freezer , and heat the receiver (10-15mins) in 200 degree oven, to fit them together. Getting them apart will be an interesting exercise. Both rifles shoot sub MoA at 100 yards with a good Vortex scope. Point, stock necessary for barrel upgrade, the barrel is the essential component. All else IMHO is icing on the cake.
I've had my stock 10/22 for 15 years or so. Pretty accurate. With the 3-9 scope set on 4 power I used to take out ground hogs at 75 yards. I've moved so I don't use it much anymore.
Josh, i would have picked up another 1022 instead of tearing up the rifle your mom bought you. But that`s just me. Not my gun, you can do whatever you want with it. On another note though Josh. I have a 1022 OEM with the pencil barrel, and with Aguila 40gr solid lead, it will do clover leafs all day long at 50yds if i do my part, and no wind. It wouldn`t hit the broad side of a barn at 50yds when i bought it, until i put a rubber strip i cut from an old motorcycle inner tube, laid it under the barrel, now shoots lights out. Barrel harmonics really mess with alot of rifles. Putting the rubber strip under my barrel, really did the trick, for me. I`ve since done a couple more 1022`s, same thing, shoot`s light`s out.
I’ve played with several 10/22s over the years and one of their weaknesses was a single attachment point for their receivers. I bought their custom competition in stainless when they came out and it was as good as any Kidd on the firing line. I recently sold my Bergara and ordered a RimX from DP Gunworks so I had to pull the Ruger out as a backup while waiting for my new toy. It’s not going to shoot with the big boys but it is much better than a stock 10/22. I think beginning your build without starting with a two point attached receiver is leaving a lot of accuracy possibilities off the table. I’m looking forward to what you come up with on this build. That’s a nice stock, it could be fitted for the new barrel, just saying. Thanks Josh.
For me, replacing the barrel provided the most improvement. I had to heat the old frame and barrel in the oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes to get the barrel out. Heated the frame only to fit the Kidd barrel. Went in so easy. For the stock I used a hogue stock with bull barrel channel - $80. Don’t think a $600 woox will make much difference. I’m shooting one hole groups at 50 yards and .65 at 100 yards with SK rifle match.
You already have done the biggest upgrade, Josh, you are one hell of a good marksman. If time were not a factor, I would do one upgrade at a time. Besides a new barrel which should help improve accuracy tremendously, I would focus on the stock / chassis. Pillars / bedding. I would start here first. Trigger spring 2nd or trigger replacement. Scope mount, Rings, scope. Arca /Swiss rail underneath - area 419 or sawtooth. Good bipod and rear support bag. Test, then, possibly new barrel. Ammo, ammo, ammo (find what shoots best). Use a ballistic calculator for shooting distances and being able to adjust to hit the target. Use wind flags even at 50 yards or more, remove as many variables that might cause a missed shot from the equation. and, own your misses, don't make excuses
Back in the day i bet that when the squirrels seen you coming they said here come the crippler I’m pretty sure didn’t have ammo like what we have today, i remember what we had out there could buy a brick of ammo for nothing. I’d try the barrel first bolt next but like you said your going to have to change the chassis first
My upgrade on the 10/22 I bought in 76 was a scope. That's it. The rifle does exactly what I intended for it to do. It's killed an uncounted number of squirrels, numerous unwanted critters around the homestead, and continues to be accurate, dependable, and effective for my use so why spend more $ to improve on what already works for me. Spend that extra $ on ammo.
Well your making your own point. For you its perfectly fine. For some it may just be a for fun target plinker they want to make as accurate as possible.
barrel first. i have a stock barrel 10/22 i did my own trigger and bolt that is really accurate up to 100 yards using Aquila 40 grain 1450 on the speed. doesnt like the slow stuff
I replaced my barrel, followed by the trigger, then replaced the bolt. Those in that order have the most impact on accuracy. When I replaced the bolt I also replaced the bolt spring, retaining rod and charging handle. I didn’t opt for the extended mag release handle since mine is bench rest only.
Don’t for forget the recoil Spring, Kidd 3 set of spring set allows you fire HV, Standard and low velocity fodder depending on the spring you use. Kidd bolt, Green mountain heavy barrel. People underestimate my FrankenRuger it can shoot F class with the best of them.
If you have the time, replace the bolt and shoot for groups. Then put the original bolt back in and change the barrel. Then shoot for groups. Then put the new bolt in with the new barrel and shoot for groups. This way we get to see if the individual contributions are less than the the combination of new bolt/barrel together.
Incase you havent already ordered it KIDD makes receivers too. So you can have a “full” KIDD 10/22 minus the stock since they don’t make those. However the “Victor Titan22” is apparently amazing for a 10/22. Especially with a KIDD build. From what I have found its a crazy precise 10/22 setup.
This is my opinion: the Ruger 10-22 rimfire rifle to me, is a dust collector, my rifle is leaning against the wall, and before that sitting in a dark room 30 years old, but the Ruger's American Rimfire saw some shooting today. It is a semi, the why.
Josh, years ago, I thought of doing a similar comparison. It would be tedious, but I suggest that you shoot the original barreled action and trigger in a new stock. Then, put the gun back in the original stock and test a better trigger. Put the original trigger back in and test a bolt group.. And so on... of course when you get to the barrel, you'll have to commit to a new stock. Can't wait to see your findings.
Torque stock screws. It should tighten up groups. There is an optimum inch torque for your 10.22. I got a nickel at 50. 5 shots. Stock parts and a buffer polymer pin.
Trigger, barrel, bolt. I'd try shimming the barrel in the reciever after the bolt. I saw some good improvements on mine after that. Upgraded the stock to a Victor and that improved the consistency.
If you are familiar with the Grey Birch receiver/ barrel setup ( Brownells), it would give you a carbon fiber barrel threaded into a custom receiver…. Add your standard bolt and trigger, to approach this from the opposite direction….
Optic, bolt, triger, barrel. In that order. For benchmark purposes I suggest using not only the same optic throughout, but also the same ammunition. There after switching the ammo to see what works best. I'll bet that the trigger will grant you the biggest memorable improvement on accuracy. Great content, keep it up. Sadly no KID products available ware I'm from. I would love a kid trigger kit for my 10/22.
Interesting series, sorry to say but happy to see that even you can shoot groups like this as it's more my normal. switching to TenX might be the biggest improvement of any other changes, maybe once you have all the improvements dialed in, end with shooting some random ammos to show how important proper selection is?
If the stock is already glass bedded . A new chassis stock won’t do much . So might as well change it so you will shoot more comfortably. Barrel has the most improvement imho . Bolt and trigger next . Bolt would show lots of improvement if OEM bolt is not good . Trigger just make it easier to shoot good. And on an expert shooter like Josh . Trigger might not show much improvement in the group . Can’t wait for the for series
One can build a 10/22 with over the counter parts that will shoot amazing groups.. Volquartsen , Dlask , Kidd, etc.. All Great parts to make a Ruger 10/22 your own./. Fun Builds too.
I love you videos and content. Man I would just get a new one just like it to build on and pass that one down to your kids. Just me though, I will definitely watch this series! Thanks Josh
Hi Josh, I have that factory stock but mine is for the 920 barrel from a Ruger target model. Is that stock for the tapered barrel or the 920? If it is for the 920 I know why the groups were so bad. Another question, if the stock is for the tapered barrel, did you sand out the forward pressure point to free float the barrel? If you free floated the barrel I again know why your groups are so bad. The 10-22 needs the forward pressure point to keep the action tight in the stock since it only has one receiver bolt. I love KIDD products, they are the best. My order of installation would be bolt, trigger then barrel. I know Kidd uses the magpul but I like the Bell and Carlson M40, it has a forward pressure point and an aluminum skeleton from bow to stern. It also has a wide forearm that tapers from front to back. Worth every penny.
Well since you are still in the stock format. I would think the easiest would be try the New Trigger Group first. Run test. Then do the Barrel. Then the bolt. Since you do not even have to replace Stock to test trigger that would be my First item. :-)
I would love to see this as a Sporter build. I coach 4H, and part of what we do is CMP Sporter Rimfire. With that, I’d do the barrel first. I think that will be the biggest “bang for the buck” (no pun).
And DIY the trigger. Little filling on the hammer then a polish all around and a coat of anti-sieze got my stick trigger down to 3.5lbs Group that then do the KIDD
Check the crown on that old barrel. Then change the stock, bolt, the trigger, and finally the barrel. When you change the barrel, consider an improved barrel block.
If you hadn’t already at least done the “BX” upgrade I might have started with the trigger as I’ve never shot a stock 10/22 trigger that WASN’T a detriment to potential accuracy. I would start with the bolt for a couple reasons….. first off, it’s the cheapest of the three primary options you are planning, it’s easy to do and finally I would be curious to see if it makes any demonstrable difference. I’ve built and shoot competitively two Kidd barreled and one Feddersen barreled 10/22 as well as a few rifles for other people and I’ve always gone the same route-Kidd one or two stage triggers (mostly 2 stage), Kidd bolts and either a Kidd or Feddersen barrel all installed at the same time. The benefit of the new bolt is not just tighter headspace. The Kidd extractor is much better than the factory version, the firing pin is pinned to eliminate the vertical slop the factory pin has which insures that the firing pin hits the case rim (primer) in exactly the same contact point on all the cases. It’s also obviously finished better.
I noted quite a few requests for bolt first, but I believe the barrell will tighten up the groups the most. So test the new bolt first, then swap back to the original bolt with the new barrel. Trigger can go last, since a BX is pretty good already. I don't think it will change the groups as much as the barrel. Have fun! My 1022 has similar upgrades in a Victor Titan stock. Sooo much better with a Kidd bull barrel.
Trigger, bolt, barrel. My work stock for one of my 10/22 builds just sucked. The wood was bad, needed sanded & sealed. Fit & finish wasn't great either. I ended up returning it and went with a bravo chassis.
Very interesting, but if you replace the barrel, trigger and bolt, the only piece left of the original rifle is the receiver, so if you then replaced the receiver, the original rifle doesn't exist; you may as well have built your own precision rifle, which, Im not knocking, I'm just thinking the cost of a donor rifle vs all the replacement parts?
Great content topic! Looking forward to it. Trigger first because I think it will not change much but it will help you be more consistent for the other test. Then bolt then barrel.
