Great video! I´ve just seen a video where it´s not connected the 5v slot in l298n to arduino nano as well as gnd. Just the 12v power source and gnd and then the 6 pins to arduino nano as simhub scheme
I have a doubt regarding the wiring from the L298N board that connects to the power supply. Should I plug the +12v to the positive of the power connector and the GND to the negative? Thank you!
Hi Just found that the 3 jack plugs do not fit the sockets in the case the center pin hole is too small for the pin in the socket. Not a problem, which size of plugs do i need t0o fit the sockets supplied please, thanks
Did you buy a counterfeit or an official one? The Nano and Micro are among the Arduino's most plagued by counterfeit versions of them (mostly sold on Amazon and eBay) and use a different USB->Serial bridge which has a problem because Windows doesn't recognize it properly after an update. The computer might connect to it, but after that, everything basically breaks, and SimHub can't Hello the device.
Yes. The Uno and Nano are both the same microcontroller type (328p). Please try to find an official Arduino if you can, the counterfeit ones come with a USB-Serial bridge that is plagued by problems due to Windows updating the driver for it and killing communication that way (it could be the result of the counterfeit item as well, but I have seen a lot of people in genuine devices that use this different bridge have problems in the same way, so it appears it's just Windows). As for Motor-shields: they are simply more available for the bigger Arduino's, simply because the form-factor allows such shields: most motor drivers are quite big and fit in the form-factor of an Uno. I use an Uno for my rumble setup, along with the same motor drivers shown in this video.
Sorry but your wiring doesn't make sence you removed the 5v vss jumper with is used if you wanna power a aduino from the motor drivers power supply (up to 12v) via ghr 5v regulator. But if you connect the aduino to simhub you slready get 5v so why also connect the drives Supply to the contoller, this make the risk of shorting something higher when something goes wrong with the motor driver or its Supply witch could destroy your pc. So if not needed why add the extra kabel + risk ? So if you just leave the jumper be and dont conenct the vss to the 5v of the aduino (do connect the grounds) it should work with lower risk of people fucking up.
Most of the time i handle my arduino stuff standalone and i'm new to Simhub. This would be the first hardware addon that requires it. You configured the "wheels locking up" for the motor. Can this setting apply for ABS at the same time or is the kick in from the ABS reported as a wheel locking up, even if it is only a fraction of a second in real life. I am wondering why both options are there and how i get the most out of every car and racing type.
It depends on the game, some games put out that effect and some don't. It is a separate effect in the channel list though. And why both are there is because wheel lock is not ABS. ABS is a method to avoid wheel lock for less experienced drivers. It's why it's in consumer cars nowadays and basically takes the idea of professional drivers who are very well aware where the optimal braking point is (and know how to brake against losing grip due to wheels locking up by releasing and pressing the brake a bit down again ever so slightly) and puts it into an electronic system that rapidly switches the brakes on and off, replacing the inexperienced driver who would have no idea where this point in brake-pedal use would ever be by electronics.
What is "large"? Are these the kind of motors you find inside cheaper force-feedback wheels? Because a startup-current of all three at the same time could easily swamp out a 5A supply, but another thing that will be important is the running time. Momentary running instead of continuous will be fine once up to speed (just like trains: all motors will pull an enormous amount of current more than when they are up to speed).
Hello. I have some questions about my rumble kit project but your website is down. Is there a way to contact you? The motorcontroller gets really hot but the motors aren’t spinning.
I think u might have had ur power and ground crossed on the side connector of the 5v I had this prob I switched em and it didn't get hot anymore..kinda suc that they don't tell us what's the POS and neg on those terminals
@@dctalon82There is. Look at the bottom of the board... There's a datasheet on the L298N as well that you can check out and see what parts in between lead to what connections.
For motors this size, a small kind (the kind you might find in network cabling, for instance, I can´t give you gauge numbers since it's not what we work with in The Netherlands) is perfectly fine. If the distances become bigger you might want to think about something a little bit bigger, to overcome internal resistance (especially if the cabling is not copper-based). When the voltages go up, in most cases, the current will as well, so go with a higher size wire.
www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1153634823/rumble-kit-for-logitech-and-thrustmaster? I can, I would need pedal measurements though. Message me through Etsy and I can sort you out. Will give discount for being a Guinea pig
@@fieldfest3d Surprised it even runs during motor-startup...It will easily exceed 500mA during that point and could easily swamp out a single 500mA USB port (a USB3 port will not help, it's not negotiating higher current use as a USB3 device).
@@Dutch3DMastermost phone chargers provide higher amps nowadays just use one or buy a 5v power supply, I got one with a fitting dc Connector for like 6 euro.
Hi mate, I have a question. I want to build a sim wheel but not ffb. I want to use rumble motors inside the steering wheel's handles for feedback but I don't want to use a motor driver. Do you know any way to do it?
Know this is an old comment but look into OSW. That would probably be a good starting point since people have made all kinds of wheels with FFB and Without
@@RicheyBLS That project uses motordrivers, just in a very much integrated package. You can't really drive motors without a driver, they are high-current devices compared to what the output of a microcontroller can switch.
Hey my motors just stopped spinning recently when all worked perfectly. All signs show everything is functioning on sim hub it says 2motors connected& arduino is lit up and showing on as well in sim hub..when i click TEST they are just not working ...now the prob is ive grown to be attached to having these and now i feel naked without them(these are awesome if anyone is considering buying) so any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED also im realizing now i never got an arduino cover in my kit
If it is unresponsive: check if you have a counterfeit item. The counterfeits typically come with a CH340 USB-Serial bridge, and Windows wrecks the communication with it due to a driver update (happens with practically every Windows update) that messes with it. The official ones come with the 16u2 bridges, which do not suffer this problem. It is nearly impossible to wipe an Arduino of it's bootloader code or the Serial-Bridge-firmware unless you follow very specific instructions to do so ;)
@@RicheyBLS CustomProtocol works. I use 2 L298N's and the second one (for not being overly exciting for what it has to do and doesn't require a lot of configuration for the effect) is driven through CustomProtocol.h and uses the L298N library.
If you run telemetry from your console to a PC via Simhub, then you can connect the rumblers to the PC and it should feed the data from your console. But you'll need a game that can broadcast UDP telemetry (e.g., Codemasters F1 on Xbox)
i need a help - i made 100% for the biggest motor and its not spining - small is spining fine. Edit: power supply 5V is to weak, I used 12V 2A and its perfect witch min 84% for bigest motor
@@weczisTVI apologize but I just want to clarify. so on the L298N where the 12V + GND to the power supply you replaced the normal 5V power supply with a 12V 2A power supply? If so what wiring changes did you make if any? Just larger wires to adjust for 2A?
@@Dailes_ yes, PS to L298N, wires the same - 2A is doesnt matter you can try 1A - didnt try if it enought, but you can use even 10A - it doesnt matter.
@@Dailes_ as I said 2A doesnt matter, you can use 10A 20A power supply - it doesnt change anything. its only about 12V, but it not make a diference to 5V on wires, you can use LgY 0.5 or 0.75, 1mm - doesnt matter the power is to low to make a difference.
It's not a how to solder video, if I sold to that market I would get a lot of people trying soldering for the first time and a lot of help requests. The market it people that can follow a drawing and solder accordingly
