Hi from Strasbourg France. Thank you for your pretty valuable lessons and your wonderful pedagogy. They're very helpful and instructive. You deserve a much wider audience. You earned a new subscriber. Keep it up!
Although I would like to see longer videos, I have some knowledge when it comes to shaping metal. That does not mean I am an expert in anything, I have knowledge and “some” experience. I think your series will be very successful because the sessions are not too long. They are long enough that one can learn a great deal without being bored. I love your work and the approach you are taking to it.
Yes absolutely a work of art and it all begins with drawing!!! I discovered how to make these as a carpenter when I had to make organic forms for concrete pour for sculpture botanical garden at the world renowned Meijer Gardens in Grand Rapids Michigan. Think of sexy Italian cars going vertical. Clear coat these and save!!! That wood says far more than any computer model.
Hey Chris, thank you for sharing your amazing skills and creations. I can never wait to see the next one. I'm thinking about building a Porsche 910 and have the buck model, your videos are mega inspiring man! More, more, more please 🙂
I was pleasantly surprised when I discovered MAPP gas is indeed hot enough to anneal aluminum. I had only ever seen the acetylene torch method. For someone doing this out of their house as a hobby, an oxy acetylene set-up (although I do know how to use one) is a bit much. Being able to use just a turbo torch and MAPP cylinder for metal shaping work is a lot more convenient.
You're really starting to make me believe I can achieve my dream simply by getting a few tools and throwing myself into it. The biggest thing that has stopped me is not having a resource that could deliver some of the knowhow I never had about metalshaping and coachbuilding. The day of the hand-built car is coming again! So I started playing around with a free 3D modeling app on my galaxy and making 3D renderings of my old body design sketches and some new and just with the insight from your videos I'm able to get panels flowing more smoothly in the digital environment. My designs border on the insane... many of them 4 or 6 wheel drive, 500 Ci+, some entirely original and some (many) inspired by pontiac models through their history, from tiny mid rear cars to massive land yachts. I heard you mention you use an outside designer for your body's and if you ever want to send me a prompt I would be glad to give you a body design any time in exchange for the knowledge you're sharing with me in your videos past and present.
Love your work. For 0H you also need to quench the aluminum after you've raised it to temp. No doubt you're happy with the ductility level from the flame softening but if the section is ever thick enough you really would want to quench. Funny how it's opposite to steel but works great.
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Interesting. I have heard the opposite on quenching, that it actually hardens the material back up… I have not tried it on the thicker material like you sugges though!
@ A lot also depends on which aluminum alloy that you are using. If you are using an age hardened alloy it has to be quenched after heating to 900F. This is because the quenching process keeps the alloying elements in solid solution. It is the aging (or tempering process) that allows the alloying elements to precipitate and allow the strength to increase. For non-heat treatable alloys, the annealing temperature depends on the alloy. More than likely you are using a 5xxx alloy since you said that it is H14 temper. The H designation indicates a cold working strengthening process. To anneal this alloy it needs to be heated up to 650F. Because you are using a thin plate or sheet, flame softening is quite often done. I recommend using either temperature crayons (my preference) or an IR thermometer to gauge your temperature. For summary the non- heat treatable alloys are 1xxx, 3xxx and 5xxx. The heat treatable alloys are 2xxx, 6xxx and 7xxx. The 4xxx alloy is primarily used as a filler metal on 5xxx and 6xxx alloys and can be heat treated when used on a 6xxx alloy. Heat treating a weld on 5xxx alloys that is made with a 4xxx filler metal will result in annealing the 5xxx base metal. When shaping and bending a 5xxx or 3xxx alloy, periodically annealing the work area can be a good idea as if there is a large amount of deformation, loss of ductility can occur and then cracks may start appearing. It is on steels that quenching causes the material to harden. Assuming of course that the particular steel alloy that you are working with is hardenable. hth
I Love All your post ! 🤘🏻🤘🏻 But please buy a mic so we can here you more easily ! than trying to concentrate on what you are saying taking away the enjoyment of it all ! Cheers Andy
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Thanks Andrew! I was filming solo on this one so didn’t have the mic! I’ve got one on order now👊🏻
Nice detailed and useful info. I learned and have been using the magic marker trick after over bending and cracking hardware store and other aluminum alloys unknown origin. To be clear, these angles on the buck opening are sacrificial, and do not end up as part of the car door or frame?
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Yes the aluminum angle material mounted to the buck, stays on the buck.
