RUST 101: Electricity Guide - Using The Sensor Properly 

No worries! :)

There is a easier method using a AND gate. Input1: HBF output; Input2: power source

@@TheOfficialSniper916 If I understand correctly, this means that when the HBHF is triggered whatever is connected to the AND will turn on?

@@RodsAndAxes the output of the AND gate will turn on. AND is a logic gate and it requires all inputs to be true to output a true. Since the power source is always outputting true, the AND gate will only output true when the HBHF sensor gets activated.

Thanks! I'm trying to keep the electricity tutorials short and to the point. I was actually worried that I went too fast with this but glad to hear that it's okay. :)

No worries and thanks! :)

No worries man! Here's a fun one for you to give a try... put a button by your front door, throw that hbhf sensor outside above your front door and then put any sort of alarm light inside next to the button. Wire the button the the hbhf sensor and then the sensor to the light. Buttons push out 2 power when they're pressed without being powered so you don't need to power this. Now anytime you're leaving your base hit the button and if the light turns on you're being door camped. Have fun and stay safe! :)

@@Malonik you're the man brother🙏🏼 kinda funny the video is 5 years old 😂 I used to play on PC but my PC broke👎🏼 so on console but should be getting a new one after bootcamp

No worries! :)

Yeah absolutely, on the flip side I hadn't used the and switch method until it was mentioned here. I'm all for finding different ways to make electricity useful! :)

Thanks! :)

Thanks! :) I've got plenty more in the works, just need to find the time to get them done!

Nice! That's a great idea!

Yeah I had someone on my discord tell me about that way. I'm actually using that circuit for an upcoming video. :)

No worries, glad it helped. :)

No worries! :)

Yeah I found out about that a while after the vid. I'm actually using that in an upcoming vid. :)

Oop yeah. I wish HBHF could just output more lol

@@bosocapotatoe5219 to be honest it makes more sense if they just let the sensor do that. Silly not to actually.

@@Malonik link please. Lol. I would like to watch the update. Been exploring Rust electricity I'm no expert but it's amazing! A lot of ways to do things.

Lol that was 100% movie magic. I usually just use the admin spawned generators because there's so many different power sources and setups people can use. Also good call on the timer.

No worries, glad you enjoyed it. :)

Thanks! :)

this is a bad setup. use the AND switch and this to do what you need. Have a solid source of power coming into the AND switch, when the sensor turns on and sends that 1 power to the AND switch, then its ON but the power is based on the other input which a value you can pre-establish.

Depends on the base and where it's built, for example a 2x2 in a fairly flat area I'd throw one on the ground outside at one corner and the other on the ground at the corner diagonally opposite the first one that way you cover all four sides with 2 of them. But again it's extremely circumstantial and also depends on what you want them to do.

Thanks man I think the roof and floor works the best and yeah it will depend on the build

I was actually debating this with gal the other night. It took a long ass time lol. It really depends on what you're hooking up but there's some little bits and pieces people don't realize. For example if you're wanting to be exact with splitters you've got to branch off the exact power you want it to have which means you're already using a branch so splitters are just an extra component to get. But let's say you found it so why not use it. Say you're using it to power 3 door controllers so you're pushing 4 power to it, 1 for the splitters and then 1 for each line for the door controllers. If you lose 1 power to that you'd expect that one line would stop working. But that's not the case, instead the splitter shits the bed because it can't split 2 power across 3 outputs and everything stops working. Where as with a branch it'll keep sending what it can (branch first then power out). They also round down. So say you push 12 power to a splitter. 1 power is the component and then it has 11 power to split 3 ways. That's 3.66 but because it rounds down it pushes 3 to each and you lose 1.98 power to literally nothing. Where as you could use 2 branches to achieve the same output for less power. They also make it more complicated to expand circuits which is why I generally stay away from them. A lot of my circuits are made on a small scale but I know bigger groups like to implement them and expand. Being able to just wire more in from your branch chain is a hell of a lot easier than rewiring and adding more splitters. So if what you're using the splitter for is perfectly divisible by your number of outputs, won't be expanded in the future and your power source is super reliable then it's worth using them. So they do have their place they're just less versatile than a branch.

@@Malonik thanks for the reply mate, i wish there was a two-way splitter or we could configure splitter "channels", maybe in the future!

@@syzygysum No worries! You can use the splitter for two outputs by not plugging in a third but yeah more control would be great!

Thanks for the sub and welcome to my neck of the woods! 100k is definitely on my list of goals but I'm still damn proud of almost having 5k!! :)

Yes however there's two things to keep in mind with that... The first is that each turret requires 10 power so you'll need to ensure that you have a for bit of power running through that circuit. The second is that turrets take a considerable amount of time to turn on and while turning on they can be authorized on. So you're going to want to make sure they're not easily reachable otherwise people can auth on them and they won't do anything.

@@Malonik hmm... good to know! right now i have 6 large rechargeable batteries with 4 windmills and 6 solar panels hooked into them... and currently i have 6 turrets.. maybe 9... now that i think about it because i have two batteries hooked into one spliter each spliter has 3 turrets hooked into them, i also have them connected to switches so i have 1/3rd of them powered at a time for 4 hours.. give or take. as for the authorizing bit.. i was wondering about that too. i may just set up shot gun traps around them, plus they are kinda high up so that might help as well. again thank you so much!! your video has been super helpful!!!!

Oooh shotty traps is a really good idea!!

Been a while since I played with XOR switches, but if they still say they consume a power but don't actually you can use them to funnel all of the sensors down to one output. Failing that you could get away with using and switches on the initial row and then run them into XOR or OR switches. That way one line into the and switch can essentially just be the power to push through the pyramid of switches as and switches will always take the higher power of the two.

I found the way, but it needs many parts and is complicated with so many sensors ^^@@Malonik

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Thanks! :)

Yeah that's fair enough, I'll look at doing a new one up in after effects. :)

Malonik I really like what you’re doing with the channel! Good luck man.

Oh nice one! I hadn't thought of using an and switch, that's really clever. :)

I use an And switch also. ;)

@@gamingoutlaws9342 seems like the simplest, have you noticed both the blue flashing lights and siren lights both run even when not powered sometimes, like they have their own battery?

@@simonfredette99 I havent seen it first hand in game but another youtuber that creates rust electric tutorials noticed same issue in one of his videos.

No worries. :)

Covered that in the previous vid, the range is roughly 3.5 foundations and it most definitely needs line of sight to function. :)

Thanks!

No worries. :)

Thanks. :)

No worries! :)

I did see a comment that the more people you have being sensed the more power it will push out. I haven't personally tried it but honestly it sounds like a side effect of how it was coded and they've just forgotten to cap it to 1. That being said if that is the case then you should be able to set a counter to show passthrough and it should show it. Although the counter itself uses 1 power so it's likely always going to be off by 1.

Yeah someone mentioned the and switches working before. Didn't even think of using an and switch my mind just went straight to memory cells.

No worries. :)

It's because the power the tesla coil consumes is 35. Check out the rustlabs link below (it has all the stats for the tesla). rustlabs.com/item/tesla-coil

Wait really? That's weird, I swear it was only outputting 1 when Gal and I were testing it... Won't affect the circuit though, doesn't matter how much power is sent to set as the memory cell is basically just checking to see if any power is there, if there is it sends power through the output, if there isn't the reset stops it.

Thanks! :)

Yeah it'll be the same with most of the electrical components because once it's outputting power it outputs at full regardless of how many components you have in your circuit. What are you using as your power source?

@@Malonik Assuming you've decentralized your power grid, you can use blockers to stop power of any batteries you do not want draining while the trap is not active. This does assume you have the ability to branch off power from more than one location.

@@josephdavis3472 Yep correct, I always try to minimize my builds as much as possible so they are as cheap as possible.

That's weird, the alarm only needs 1 power so it should be as easy as sending the output from the sensor into your alarm. Maybe wire an alarm up by itself to make sure they're working on that server?

@@Malonik thanks for the reply. Do you know how far the sensor will detect another player? Is it just in the immediate vicinity? I have mine placed in the 2nd floor. Will it detect people walking around outside the house?

@@LucasChase345 No worries man. :) The sensors range is roughly 2-3 foundations away from it. So if it's on the outside second story it will catch people walking past but it might miss people on the corners depending on how wide your base is. Should also note that it can't detect shit through walls so if it's inside definitely move it outside lol.

@@Malonik ahh, I see. I have built a cottage-like base with a second story that is somewhat restricted by the roof. So yeah, it will go off when I get up there and open the door, but nothing else. Considering the small amount of power they use, I guess it would be possible to create one for each side of the house, and just rely on one solar panel? Then connect them all to the signal light up there. My original thought was to add an auto turret to the circuit, so that when movement was detected, the doors to a pillbox for the auto turret would open, and the auto turret would go on. I found another video and the idea with that one was to use a blocker to have the doors close to the pillbox when the auto-turret runs out of ammo. Much less complicated, considering the auto-turret doesn't need any help in detecting if someone is there.

@@LucasChase345 Yeah it's also safer for the auto turret because if someone drains it they don't get to break it for the gun. :)

Thanks! :)

He didn't connect it to the input on the left as the input he uses is on the right, just as they are in the game. And yes it still does work :) Even 4 months after your question :P

Hey! You sure can! Run the sensor to an rf broadcaster and have the pager on you. Not sure if you guys have the smart components yet but if / once you do you can run the sensor to a smart alarm and set up rust+ on your phone so you get push notifications there when it goes off. :)

Yeah I don't see why not. I'm confused though why are you using memory cells? What are you actually trying to rig up? Like what is the end goal, what should it do?

@@Malonik Im trying to make it so when a person who aint tc auth all the doors close, locking him in.

@@nycee7359 It's doable, however because the door controller is more of a toggle than a controller it'll mean that once that non authorized person dies all those doors would open up again. If this is for a trap base then that can work. However if this is base defense then it'll actually weaken your base because if they get tc they can rework it so it opens for the doors for them. It can be wired up so that you have to reset it from somewhere in the base (or even multiple places in the base). However that complicates the circuit really fast. More than happy to rig it up for you if you're still interested in it though. :)

@@Malonik Thank you, I would love you to rig it up for me, although i got raided and dont have that base anymore. I have startet playing on another server. But i could make a new one. I think that could also make a good vid if so. Btw sry for the delayed answer i had alot of home school

@@nycee7359 Hey!! Sorry it took so damn long!! I've got a video dropping 2.5 hours from now with your circuit and a full breakdown of how it works, the pros and the cons! :)

Yeah the crafted ones are, any that you find in crates work. They've actually fixed them but looks like we're waiting for the next monthly patch to actually get the fix.

No worries! :)

@@Malonik As I have no memory cell - anyway I can workaround to switch on multiple outside lights? No 'and' variation i can do? Using a switch... All the branches set up just need the trigger to allow power. (First time doing this its been fun.) ta

This is totally doable, I actually already have a video in the works on how to do it too. :)

the smart switch is a toggle. So just use it as a passthrough after your toggle

Yeah, he got a full time job, he still occasionally streams but it's super rare as far as I've seen. I miss him. :(

That's an interesting one, theoretically I think it could be done. I'll play around with it and see if I can get it to work. :)

@@Malonik give it a go man, I'm still not great with the electricity update but slowly getting it sussed, after watching your vids hopefully you might be able to figure it out if it's doable. One thing's for sure, if that idea pans out there will be lots of frustrated offline raiders 😁

@@magoomagoon Yes this can be done and I've done it. An initial 'ticking timer' can be created with the use of 2 branches, a blocker and a timer. This however is a leading path into advanced logic and electrics, practical both in and out of rust.

You're forgetting about Memory cells. You can run multiple HBHF into multiple SET option on otherwise powered memory cells, then run those memory cells into whatever you need to power. Just remember that you need to also use an electrical branch per memory cell so you can run 1 power back into the reset node on each memory cell as well (otherwise it won't reset properly). As a side benefit Memory cells also do not consume electricity so they can be used as repeaters as well. This probably sounds like insane babbling, but any time you can't figure out a circuit in Rust, the problem can usually be solved by either a memory cell or a blocker

They remain open because so long as someone is triggering the sensor it is sending power to the set function on the memory cell. If both the set and reset functions are powered the set function takes priority over the reset function so it shouldn't reset until there is no power going to the set (when the sensor isn't being triggered).

Your things turning on and off constantly means that your battery does not have enough power. To help you fix the issue use the display thingie(forgot the name) to check your electricity output. Remember that ONE turret takes 10 electricity output. You may have a power shortage my friend.

Sure can, furthermore I already did a video on it lol - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ofxc1IvFuy8.html

@@Malonik my dumb ass watched this too hahaha thank you!

@@zachx4338 lol no worries! :)