as a retired boilermaker , ship builder, steel boats, i have used rust converter several times in my life,, the pros are ,, you can weld over top if need be, it's basically a polymer barrier, does it really work one might ask,, well yes and no, what your doing most likely, on ships tug boats not that well, there's honestly only one way to do rust , sandblast the whole car,, it just drives me nuts seeing videos like this one, why would you not toe the chassis to the sandblaster while its in a million pieces, your telling your viewers you will get back to it,, so what your saying is your going to spends heaps of money on this VW and then do the drive it the rusted out honestly , there were all kinds of rust holes still everywhere, from my experience fix it now,, its all apart, but new plate in that rust bucket, its an easy job, once you but the new floor board in and then go back and cut rust out, your new steel will get sprayed with rust particles, you might think oh but i will vacuum the car out,, once again it doesn't work that way, the angle grinder will shower the floor boards with minute particles of rusted steal this will burn into the new floor, you won't see the tiny little burn marks even vacuuming the floor will not remove them,, they become embedded into the new steel, starting the rust process all over again,, i see videos on you tube over and over again og guys doing this, then saying the same thing,, oh i will get back to it eventually,, well most of the time and i mean most of the time it never happens, so what we have here then with a lot of these guys is this,, they have spent a fortune on there projects , half assed the build spent a fortune on painting , tools ,, engine rebuilds, you get my drift,, so my friend }FIX IT NOW } and cut the rust holes out before you but the new floor in,, from what i can see you,ve come a long way with this already i praise you for that, having said that dont go backwards now it will be a huge mistake at this point just so you can drive it asap,, or for the sake of your youtube subscribers,,
Hey Wilfred, I really appreciate your thoughts on this. Trust me I would love to do a complete restoration on this bus and that is the goal long term. This is my first attempt at a restoration and I feel like this is a good way to achive a sense of pride and accomplishment and learn at the same time. Once it's up and running and driving there will still be lots of parts we can restore along that way. Stay tuned to see what happens. You might be surprised my friend! =)
Take a wire brush , sand the treated surfaces and if you see rust underneath remove this stuff and do it properly ( usually the converter only change the surface color nothing else, if you take bare/new steal and put it on it will get black ( generally converter just makes verything black
right, i had the same experience with rust converter..... change the surface color, and when you paint the surface the paint can came out with the film of rust converter
@@CTmoog nothing to please! I thank you for doing this kind of videos! what you are doing with the VW Combi is great! and I hope to go see her personally!
It's a cooler, rainy Monday here in Pennsylvania & I'm at work in my office watching you work on your bus - This helps my day go by quickly & feeds my VW addiction. hahaha!! Looking good man!
Hi CT.I wish we could help you instead of just looking how hard you work to reach your goal .We can feel the love you put on this rusty and for this reason we'll stay tuned until you want so. See you next vídeo!
Great update! I've never seen rust converter in action before. Should be a nice temporary fix! Can't wait to see you tear out the old break system on Rusty! Thanks for clearing the air on your ultimate goal for Rusty. You got hooked. :) 👍🏼
Looks like naval jelly , I've used that with success....but por15 is the ticket , try por 15 ... it even comes in grey color too ....stuff is gold Keep going , the bus will look good when done
Go Jim Dandy go! Old 1950's song! You have more sponsors so you must be attracting attention! It is a long project so patience has its own rewards! You are doing well. Ron in WA state.
Very satisfying process with the derusting! I use a similar product here, leaves a darkened and sealed/primed surface, great for paint prep. Can you send some warmth down here please! Just started Winter and already into single and negative figures!! Great work CT. Cheers Tony from down under.
Nice video. Only the best of luck bringing the ole bus back from the brink. What I would like to see is someone showing how the conversion is holding up 5-10-15 years after application.
Hello Norm! Thank you! Yes, that would be pretty cool to see. If I still have it in 5 to 10 years I'll make another video about it. I appreciate that! Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Ok not sure about the rust converter you are using but the one i used said to wash it off and yes most of the black stuff came off and i saw bare metal after that then i painted it with Zinc than fallowed by primer. But I recommend you spray this after the primer with something maybe black just to get this precious Kombi Metal sealed and protected
Hey Chris! that's interesting. I'll try to clean a small area to see if it comes off. If it does maybe I'll clean it all off and paint it like you suggested. Good advice man! Stick around! Thank you! =)
good job , your brave. when i first heard about this stuff many years ago it was called nutra-rust and it worked amazingly well!! but i remember it instructed you not to remove much rust only the flaky stuff and not to sand or even an aggresive wire brush, just lightly cause it needed the rust to cause a chemical reaction to convert it to a very hard black metal that you can paint if needed. it did nothing to no rust or painted areas. haven't seen it in years, i think it worked to good!
Not trying to be a bummer because I really enjoy your videos, CT ! Here’s the but- since you already have the floorboard off and exposed the rusted frame, I would blast that thing and forget about using a converter. Just save yourself some time in the long run. Just my .02, coming from somebody who wasted a lot of time doing similar things on a very rusted truck project! Keep vids coming!
Yes, I know what you're saying. I don't have a blaster yet. I have to get a bigger air compressor as well. It's on my wish list. Hopefully soon! Thanks man! =)
Nice job CT, rust converter is just to stabilize the rust areas. To be really affective get a flappy disc on those painted rusty surfaces and take back to exposed metal then treat with 2 coats,.Rust is like a cancer unless you cut it out whatever else you do its only temporary. Keep up the entertaining content.
Hi, Matt, I think you're gonna need a lot more rust converters. An immersion bath for the bus would be the ultimate plus ultra. Ha, ha. :-) A paint spray gun would also facilitate a lot or a pressure spray gun with probe for the cavities. But you're doing it, you can't have all the tools you need. I will continue to observe how you progress. Dig in and make us happy. Greetings from Germany
Should have gotten the wire wheel for your angle grinder for this job, also i wouldn't mind taking a crack at restoring the radio in it, i also love the gas cans you got i have an eagle one myself
@@CTmoog sure, ive worked on plenty of old vacuum tube radios and transistor radios, if you want to send it over we can exchange details wherever you want
@@Raven-fu1zz It actually works but the buttons are disintegrating. Did you see the "It's alive video? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h8nQmU4b4WI.html
For the body panels that you wanna keep the rusty patina, soak them with boiled linseed oil to slow the rusting down to almost a halt. You have to reapply it about every 6 months. Careful rags with boiled linseed oil is flammable!!
Hey CT, I like your idea to just get it going, and deal with the Restoration at a later date. I did the opposite, and just started cutting out the rust and sandblasting, that was back in 2012, and I haven’t come close to driving it yet. It’s all fun though, good luck. Rutoration lol.
Saludos cordiales. Muy avanzado con la combi. Apenas estoy viendo tus primeros capítulos. Yo tengo una 1990 de maquinaria 1800 y la hicieron a 1600. Tiene sus detalles. Hay la llevo. Saludos cordiales hermano.
Run as far away as you can from rust converters !!! Mechanic rust stripping combined with rust remover is the ways to go ( except you do a giant scale electrolysis or so )
Hi again Matt from across the pond! You might be able to get the steering wheel off without special tools. What works for me, is first put the nut back on a few threads, then hold each side of the wheel and try to first tilt side to side, then sharply pull upwards. You need the nut on there, as if the taper lets go you will end up with the wheel hitting you in the face!
Lovin the videos CT! Keep it up! I got a 1979 bay window kombi back in Brisbane, Australia and I’m using your videos as inspiration for myself 👍🏽 so thanks mate
Hey Tom! That's awesome man! Thank you so much! I really appreciate that. Keep me updated on the 79 Bay! Stay tuned for more! =) ru-vid.com/show-UC_93TP8BjmPY335vWgttFMgvideos
@@CTmoog I live in a small village called Campo Ligure 30 km from Genoa in Liguria.I posted some videos of my motorcycle tours in my area . My youtube channel is "MOTORFREAK NEW" if you wanna know what my region is like.
I have done 3 frame off restorations and I can tell you that you really need to invest in a small sand blaster. it will save you tons of work, and removes rust completely not just convert it. your shop is small enough to set up a plastic curtain around the bus a collect the medium for reuse. also your plan to come back and redo a full restore job is a waste of time and material, do it right the first time, or it will never get done.
Hey Ken, that is good advice man! That';s what IK want to do. I need to buy a blaster and a bigger air compressor. It's on my wish list. Hopefully son! Stay tuned! =)
Also I have used a product called pos from The Eastwood co. It is the best rust stopper on the market. Just paint it on and it seals the rust and prevents it from coming back. We used it on my son's 70 lemans sport 10 years ago and it is still working.@@CTmoog
You know; any sheet metal which you can stick thru with a screw driver has to go. Chemicals often keep the oxidation in the metal and cause stability issues. Be safe.
The rust remover and you did a good job. one step closer to make it roadworthy. But you need to be carful about tight spaces maybe you could use some rust remove sprays.
Hi CT great job...... the steering wheel was a nightmare to remove on my singlecab......exploded when it finally released but managed to restore the cracks something like with araldite glue. The outside of rusty I'd personally leave as is.....it's awesome........there's a product called Ankor Wax I used on mine.......check it out captain. All the very best from England 😉
Hey Warren! Man it's on there tight! I don't understand how they get so stuck. I guess it's pretty common. Yes, he is staying Rusty for now. I'll check it out. Thank you! =)
Hey Edward! Yes it works pretty good! That's interesting! I didn't think about that! Wolfsburg West makes the roof. I was thinking about ordering one at some point. Stay tuned! =) www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211817039
Hey Frank! Yes, check out some of my older videos. Lots of them. I'll make some new ones with them as well. ru-vid.com/show-UC_93TP8BjmPY335vWgttFMgvideos
Trying to save time? Cut a slot into your floorpan. Slide the floorpan into the car with the steering column in the slot. Then, tig weld the metal that you cut out of the floorpan in behind the column. Then you dont have to worry about steering wheel removal. If you want, you can grind the welds down until they are flush and buff them out. It will look fine. Searching for unusual tools sucks. This is the quick and easy way.
Not sure if I would trust that stuff. But to get the steering wheel off is pretty simple. I made one to remove the steering wheels from garden tractors, I might have to take a trip to Florida and buy your gravely. What you will need to do is cut a plate of steel at least 1/4 inch thick, drill a cutout in the plate and make sure it will fit under the wheel. Now get the puller setup from harbor freight, align it up with the plate you just made and mark where your holes need to be, drill and tap the holes, set it on the wheel and remove. Need pictures, let me know.
Hey CT. Yeah we got some storms roll through. There's more coming today, so stay dry. Its good to see you proactive with the rust prevention. I dont know this product. But I wouldn't get it on any rubber or plastic that your not replacing. I just wouldn't trust it.
Hey Ron! It came down again today! Yes, it works pretty good. I hear you. All of the parts are going to be replaced soon. Working on the brakes this week. Stay tuned! =)
Who thinks there should be a montage at the end? Already got the music 🎷 "Secret Messages" ELO. Try it Mr. CT! (Acquired taste) 👍 (song belongs to Electric Light Orchestra)
I've used rust converter for many years. If done properly and then painted with the correect paint it will last foe a long, long time. I don't like the weather in your area and its no wonder that the cars you get are rusted so much. You should look for old cars from California.
Quizas evites que se siga oxidando por un rato, pero no le daras resistencia estructural, al menor esfuerzo de torsion se romperan las piezas que ya estan dañadas, lo mejor seria limpieza con chorro de arena y sustituir las piezas que no sobrevivan al proceso.
You really are in love with that crate Wonder how the wifey and the doggies must be feeling Since rusty is gobbling part of their quality time with you man! Anyways good for uz who are just lovin it! Heh Heh Hehe It's a selfish World! No offence to sister and the bow wows But we too need CT alongwith Rusty Heh Heh Hehe
How did you resist doing the outside of the whole bus ?? I did a few spots on mine on the outside first, then in preparation to go after the brakes, I went after the frame, on a creeper another job that totally sucks ! ....welcome to bus life...
Again a good Video. Rost Converter Ultra ... Crazy Products you have in the US ... I compare it with our products we have in Germany. Do you have to clean the surface after a day with water? As well a new Intro for your videos - very cool. I like it.
I have a TR6 where the chassis members can be cleaned on the outside and de-rusted but using a borescope it is clear that the internal chassis steel also needs treating . Same dilemma as you - rustoration or restoration / (knowing full well that the longer left the worse it will be). Spent the past month considering but still no near a decision. Sigh.
Hey! The work seems to proceed well, although if I put myself in your pants, I would certainly carry on the restoration first and only then the ride. Driving around with so much rotten metal and rust holes makes your machine pretty unsafe, besides you'll have water and wind issues. Could be ok for summer, but the rest of the year is not so enjoyable. Don't forget the holes in the roof also. Anyway I hope you succeed to bring it together. Keep on! =)
Thanks man! I agree and would love to do a complete restoration at some point. That will require more money, time and skill. I hope to reach that goal someday! Stay tuned to see where it goes! THANKN YOU!!! =)
@@CTmoog =) You can't believe how little tools you need to do some metal job... As for body parts is ok to get replacements if you can although usually those are pretty pricey. (not always..) For things you can't get ready, you can get some sheet metal of the same thickness, a set of body tools (I have a set of 3 hammers and 4 different shape dollies), 2 pairs of pliers (grip pliers) and a heavy enough, sturdy vise to help you out. 4 basic processes are in use for sheet metal forming: bend, cut, stretch, shrink. Welding will join them together. The other tools, gadgets, helpers, forms and stuff you can make of practically anything you have around, wooden blocks, pieces of scrap metal, tubes, gas cylinder or just caps, you name it.. Try visiting the local metal scrap yard to get various shapes... =) Cheap and useful. The sheet metal for fabrication should be always new! Oh, you need also some tin snips, but probably you already own a pair somewhere.. ... a file not too coarse, some sanpaper, an angle grinder you already have and a drill, a piece of flat 10mm rubber sheet .. Simple stuff, nothing complex. Big machinery just helps you work faster, not better! =) Be positive, I hope to post some videos soon, my only biggest downdraft is time, which is always against me.
It s hot over there? Here in England Is cold ,wet ,damp, rainy and miserable crap weather that prevent me to work on my Classic Citroen Ami6, I just wanted to swear today.
