This product is phosphoric acid based, it can't dissolve iron just iron oxides, meaning: it's very safe to leave it overnight for instance, the gel formulation does not dry easy, you are not using it to its full potential.
I used this on my AMC 304's oil pain on my cj5. The pan had surface rust pretty bad. I hosed it down and the got called into work for a repair job. I quickly just covered it in saran wrap and left it sit outside on a trailer. When I came back 5 hours later the pan literally looked like it had been sandblasted. I grabbed it and power washed it all off and then through it in front of a forced air heater to dry and then was able to paint it.. All in one night! The stuff works great.. Just take time.
@@JeffEstesBuilds Good choice on replacing the panels..Just because of this video and conversation I slathered some on a Inside diff cover for my jeep tonight. It was surface rusted pretty badly I just went ahead and did the same process. It took like 45 min only because I had to pick my son up from y-camp. This stuff works great. Even heavy rust it will get and at least loosen up.. Just leave it on and keep it wet by throwing saran wrap on it. Let it eat.
Just uploaded my Rustoleum Rust dissolving gel fix to my lower rear trailing mount brackets on the TrailBlazer. I kept at it and was satisfied enough to then paint over with the Rustoleum rust reformer paint. I left on the phosphoric acid gel as a stronger "rust reformer" to mix in with the paint. Then left that to dry and then did a coat of the Stop Rust enamel rustoleum paint. Then finally put in the new rear trailing arm. Now only three more to go.
@@sabotup7442 I can't guarantee anything about this stuff. haha. Tannic acid is in the Eastwood rust converter "spraypaint" - and Tannic acid is a weaker form of phosphoric acid - much weaker. If you have BLACK then that's good. The white is "extra" phosphorus left over. The Self-Etching Primer has Zinc Phosphorus - which is essentially the same as that "extra" phosphorus in my view. Apparently that white phosphorus causes the paint to come off though? I don't know - I haven't noticed that happening very much. Also some "self-etching primer" actually does have phosphoric acid in it.... My new schtick is Epoxy spray paint as a sealer - I just get the "appliance epoxy" spray paint. I'm pretty excited about that to seal out oxygen. good luck - ideally you want to use a steel wire brush to remove as much rust that way, etc. Then turn the remaining rust black to iron phosphate. .. Then I guess epoxy paint will adhere much better - then say "polyurethane paint." I tried Polyurethane paint and it will have the chemical reaction and harden very fast in the can - as soon as you open it. It's a huge mess and you can't remove that stuff - but also it doesn't adhere very well - so it ends up peeling off. I used as much as possible as I could of the polyurtherane and then sprayed more epoxy over it, etc.
Muriatic acid does the same thing and cheaper too but is really dangerous to handle in any application. I use Rust Mort for heavily rusted areas on my Buick's rocker panels and found right away the rusting stops with just two coats. Now, in your case the floor pan is rusted all the way through so has to be rusted on both sides. It would be a lot better to fabricate and weld in new floor pans.
Just finished replacing the floor panels last week and cutting out all of the old rot. Welded in some scrap sheet metal and fiberglass over that. Truck bed liner to follow so hopefully that will look like new. Sadly, the cowl panel is giving me some rust / leak issues and I don’t know if I want to invest the time in that
Just got done washing it off my obs gmc trucks frame and im impressed. It went from a nasty orange frame to a clean gray. Left it on for about 3 hours and just hosed it down.
It would have been really funny to start the video with the rusted out floor, then you spraying it on and in 30 minutes later you have a completely professional refabricated floor.😆 Just for kicks.
Hahahaha! I wish I could make that video without the work involved. I did replace them all, in case you were curious. Some scrap sheet metal, some burning through spots like a rookie and some 8 hours later, we are proud to report there is a solid floor throughout.
Tried it and 30 minutes on real rust on sheet metal that has been wirer brushed and it took multiple treatments and 30 minutes turned into 3 days along with wire brushing it in to help and eventually left a clean etched metal surface. No way 30 minutes. Has creeper fumes wear a good mask when using along with gloves ,eye protection and long sleeves. Got my forearm that looked like a scratch ,but turned into a dime size burn .Not good if your in a hurry at all .If you have plenty of time it will work.Thank for the review.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us! If I was in a shop scenario or enclosed I’m with you on mask. PPG is a must with chemicals and rust/ dust. I think I’ll still be sticking to a grinding wheel and wire brush.
This product is "phosphoric acid based" it's a much weaker acid than say muriatic acid, and it's much safer to use: Muriatic acid is actually Hydrochloric acid (HCl) which is actually a gas dissolved in water, so when you leave muriatic acid solution it puts out fumes of HCl, and it can dissolves iron to, so it is much more aggressive than phosphoric acid which is safe to leave overnight for instance, as it will only dissolve iron oxides (rust) and not the iron itself. So you are not using it to its full potential it needs more time.
Awesome info! I agree with you on the time and knowingly rushed the process. Fortunately I knew ahead of time I would be welding new floor pans in (now complete) so this was a fun test. Thank you for the info on the off gassing, super helpful.
My pleasure! Love the E150 model vans for build outs, had a 2006 chevy colins 26' bus we did two years ago and was very fun (frustrating at times). Again, the method of flap disk on grinder or sanding is best, especially for major rust, but the idea of keeping a cleaner environment with the use of a product like this is wonderful. Best of luck on the van.
Rust removers are OK for light surface rust, but you need to use a rust converter to really get rid oftherust. Otherwise, you're just wasting your time, effort and money. For the areas that are eaten through, you need to replace that metal or you're pissing into the wind.
Absolutely agree with you on that. On this particular floor board section I recently cut out the majority of rot metal and replaced it with new material.
its good for a lot of other things it will clean the stuff off boat bottom and clean electric connectors and copper wire i use this for a lot of things
Wow! Thanks for the tip, I didn’t think to use it for other applications. I have to be honest and say I probably won’t purchase this again once I run through it but will certainly test it out on other projects, thank you.
You ever tried it on rust welded bolts? Got a downpipe I’m trying to get off my 03 Duramax and it’s a pain in the rear, I’ve tried all kinds of penetrating fluids.
I have not, usually anything locked up I spray it with Kroil and heat it. I would imagine in spaces where you can't get leverage for a tool its worth a shot. If you do it let me know how it pans out.
hahaha , yea well honestly it helped with the rust "dust" but I have since cut out the majority of the metal and welded in the sheet material for the pans!
I remember my father's old mazda b2000 that had rusted floor boards as bad or worse than i seen here. He replaced them with the outer jacket from an old water heater, and held it together with rivets. 🤣 Better than braking Fred Flinstone style. 😂 He drove it until the metal around both hinges on the door rusted off. 🤣
Honestly Regular distilled white vinegar in my experience has worked better on rust than all the rust removers ive tried so far. I cant help but to laugh at most of these products that claim to eliminate rust, while telling you that you need to clean the rust off before use of the product that claims to remove it.... Ive left stuff soaking in clr and similar solutions for more then a day after scrubbing with ok results. However when i put the same parts into vinegar for a couple hours, the shine comes back to the metal with nothing more that a toothbrush. Honestly between the price point and how well they work, ill have to stick with vinegar for alot of situations. .
Ive also seen some pretty cool electrolysis videos that seem incredibly efficient for smaller objects. Its safe to say that this truck would need a swimming pool.
I would put cardboard down beneath it and dispose of properly once done. Now a days I really do my best to avoid chemicals after all the info coming out about cleaners etc.
Great question, but I would ask your friend. In terms of best solution, sanding out the rust is probably best for sheet metal. I ended up sanding and replacing most of my floor boards with new metal. If you can sand without blowing out the metal, that is what I would do. If there are bubbles in the rust, or sheet metal, it will likely need some spot welding or sectional replacement. Best of luck!
Hey there, I picked this up at Home Depot but I would not assume this works well on aluminum. I think there are specialty polishes at Auto supply stores you can pick up for this purpose, try those first.
@@JeffEstesBuilds I sall on tik tok some guy use it on his aluminum wire wheels and it came out good never replied to my comment tho lol thanks tho I'ma pick one up
Myself just having stripped a front chassis and firewall, get yourself a dustless blast kit (30 bucks on Amazon) that connects to a power washer and only spend money on the fun kind of strippers in the future.
Cardboard underneath for sure, and to expand on the other question, it doesn't smell or look like its great for the environment or your health. Mask and gloves for sure.
For this application I have come to conclude, I agree. Maybe practical applications on small tooling but the mess is not worth it. Steel wool for small, brush medium, grinder large, new metal for chaos.
@@JeffEstesBuilds I am really impressed with the Krud Kutter the Must for Rust. It is not a jell so it doesn't make as big a mess. It has more concentration of phosphoric acid than any of the off the shelf products I've tried.
Fiberglass don't stay long on metal. And it will cause it to slowly rust under the fiberglass and that I know for sure because I have done paint and body for over 21 years and seen it after its been done several ways a still it rust really bad under it . If it's worth doing then it's worth doing right so just replace it and do it only once not twice sometime down the road
Totally agree with you Gary. Update on the truck: I cut out all the rot rust and bad metal and replaced it with a slightly thicker gauge cold steel plate and mig welded them in. Much better fix. I will soon bed line the interior and then replace with stock insulation and liner.
Hey Einstein the rust surface removing not restoration it won't restore your floor pan the new drive around with a compromised floor is dangerous if you get in an accident
Joe Bro thanks for watching and commenting. Editors note: his video is not titled "clueless restoration" or "this product fixes rusted out floor pans, watch me look dumb". It was a simple experiment for people to see and make their own judgement if this chemical will serve their project needs. As mentioned in the video, the primary reason I used it was to eliminate rust dust before sanding and cutting to prep for new floor plans, of which I have since welded throughout the entire cab. Appreciate the concern with safety and I agree with you, driving around with busted floor pans is no joke.
You cannot even form sentences and you sarcastically refer to him as “Einstein”🙄. If you graduated from elementary school, you would know how to communicate in writing.
@@JeffEstesBuilds it was my fault I left it on overnight. It turns pretty hard. Had to use wire brush with drill to get it off. Product itself works pretty well.
Sadly, yes, yes I was. BUT, I replaced the whole pan some months later, she was beyond repair. I just cut some sheet metal and welded it in there with my mig.
lol you can't spray rust remover on steel that is gone loool. why are we still trying to replace cars like this? i did it all, and its not worth it. -car vette-
Yes you are totally correct! This was mostly for the sake of "science" as they say. I have since fully removed the floor pans and re-welded new sheet metal in place. That being said, this product does do an ok job at removing surface rust from mild steel.
yea I need to do an update video where it shows me cutting ALL of the floor pans out and welding in new metal. That said, this product is still decent for minor rust.
@@JeffEstesBuilds I got a few spots on my 63 falcon I'm about to patch up. Would you happen to have made a video showcasing your new floor boards? Not asking for a link, just a yes or no is fine before I go searching.
