What should I use for removing rust??? 

Let us know what you think!

We totally agree PPE is a must, that's why Dave has his safety glasses on when spraying the fast etch and gloves on throughout.

I’m hearing the rust belt uses a rust encapsulater after the other stuff. Etch, clean/prime, encapsulate, then put a wax based product on top every year, like Cosmoline. You can also do clear coat, but still have to use a fluid or wax film on top every year. I spend summers in Maine and never had to worry about rust til now. One summer and my van was aged over a decade! Going to be doing the series I said on the whole undercarriage. Prob one section at a time, cause it’s a lot and gonna take a while. It’ll be worth it though!

Eastwood, same question.... (not necessarily the same chemical but the same result?)

Please leave us a review on the product page! We'd love to have your feedback. Fast Etch: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-fast-etch.html Rust Dissolver: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html Rust Converter: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html

Yes.

The problem is laser rust removers are very expensive - this is a chemical means that is far more cost effective.

Do you have access to the inside of the frame? The benefit of internal frame coating is that it has a wand to get inside boxed frames. If you have an open c channel you have more options.

I don’t have access to wipe anything down but I have a spray gun with access rod that can spray rust converter in the frame if it would be better than the internal frame coating by itself? Can I use rust converter and the internal frame coating together? I have a boxed frame.

Okay now we understand - yes you can double them up. Spray converter let it sit for 24 hours then top coat with encapsulator or internal frame coat.

The rust converter will do what you're talking about. Or you can use rust encapsulator and top coat from there.

You could - more likely you would use converter, fast etch, or remover and then coat with encapsulator or move to epoxy primer.

@@eastwoodco my understanding is that the encapsulator is not meant for large panels like quarter panels. If you don’t get all the pinholes of rust and you apply epoxy primer will the epoxy prevent rust from popping through? It seems like the last insurance step would be a converter since a disolver may not get everything. I’m talking about a panel that can’t be blasted for fear of warping.

Okay now we understand. You could use use the converter and then spray fast etch across the panel as extra insurance. Check out the workflow we did on the mustang here at 4:17 : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rZ7F6gmmH4E.html

@@eastwoodco so would the fast etch begin to remove the areas where it turned black from the converter? Does epoxy primer seal any small rust pits or will it eventually come back through? It seems impossible to get all the rust. Are your epoxy primers high build?

We spoke with our engineering department and they said: For rust on large panel best method is DA/sanding with 80grit, thus leaving rust in valleys, sub scratches and pin holes. Blow off panel, apply fast etch. This is the best method for actually dissolving rust with diluted phosphoric acid. Apply to surface with rag or spray bottle, allow to sit 5 mins reapply until pin holes turn to dark spots (rust is now dissolved and chemical reaction leaves iron phosphate). Then apply epoxy primer. Rust convertor is used when panel can not be first abraded with 80 grit to remove corrosion (think recessed door jamb). rust convertor must be applied directly over rust not fast etch or any other product. Our epoxy's will have some build (OptiFlow has a decent amount) but for explicitly high build you would want to look at urethane or polyester High Build Primer.

How deep is the rust? Fast etch is for light pitting/surface rust. Rust converter is for deeper issues.

@@eastwoodco hard to tell its between middle to deep rust, can i use fast etch first, then hit it with the rust converter after? I also came across the por-15 kit, any good?

Okay with that info we'd recommend wire brushing all the loose/bad stuff off and rust encapsulating the area, we have it in aerosol or brush able versions. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus.html

As long as it's not freshly running it will treat pitting that's common on exhausts. You'll still need to clean it off and then top coat with something to prevent the rust from coming back.

Glad you liked it!

That's not what it's designed to do, we recommend putting the parts in primer at least if they're going to sit.

Thanks for the quick replies. You products are top notch! @@eastwoodco

You will probably want to tape it off, and wipe any excess spray off with pre-painting prep to neutralize it.

Thanks!

After Fast Etch, he applies Pre-Painting Prep to neutralize the fast etch, and clean off the panel www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html